Maine Moments: Rockland Outing

ART AT THE FARNSWORTH

Rockland, an hour or so north of Southport, is a charming town with some intriguing little shops and a variety of small restaurants plus a movie theater.  We usually head up here for just the art museum and lunch, but we should really return sometime and dally in the shops.  Maybe next year.

The Farnsworth Art Museum is home to an expansive collection of art by several generations of the Wyeth family. Lots of paintings and drawings by Andrew Wyeth, but also the works of his father, N. C., and his son, Jamie.  This year’s featured exhibit, while presenting some of Andrew Wyeth’s paintings, focuses on the role his wife Betsy had in selecting buildings to rehab as homes or studios and her hand in designing the interiors.  The exhibit is entitled, By Design: The Worlds of Betsy James Wyeth.  It’s a different approach to the collection, but I didn’t find it as engaging or successful as some other recent exhibits.

I was more interested in the walls that showcased works by other Maine artists, lesser-known ones in some cases, who visited Maine or were part of one of the several art schools or artist colonies that sprang up in the late 19th and early 20thcenturies.  Some of these artists had works in the 1913 Armory Show or were exhibited at other small galleries in Manhattan. The three paintings below were painted in Maine between 1926 and 1928.

Whitecaps, Beatrice Whitney Van Ness
Wave, Night, Georgia O’Keeffe
City of Bath, Marguerite Zorach

On the lower floor, we reveled in the color and energy of the works of Portland-based sculptor Benjamin Spalding.  Go Bang! showcases several of his life-size figures constructed of wood, metal, and paint. They are lively, unusual, and eye-catching.  Diva Dancer 2 is poised at the entrance to this gallery and shown below.

Diva Dancer 2, Benjamin Spalding, 2026

I was also struck by Alex Katz’s sculpture of a cow. I like his flat portraits that are often boldly colored with minimal detail. His cow is made out of cut aluminum, then painted, and appears 3-dimensional. It’s unmissable in the gallery!

Cow, Alex Katz, 2006

No visit to the Farnsworth is complete without time in their lovely gift shop crammed with note and greeting cards, art pencils, books, cocktail napkins, and toys for kids. Across the street is 365 Gallery, their larger shop and design space where one will find paintings for purchase, elegant glassware, and currently, a few ceramic pieces on display.

CASUAL LUNCH

Waterworks Restaurant  (Rockland)

A short walk and a few blocks down the main street and then left on Lindsey Street is Waterworks.  It’s a pub located in an old building that was once part of Rockland’s water system (hence the name) and has a cozy and welcoming vibe.  There’s lots of dark wood, a long bar, and scattered tables for four or eight; it would be especially nice on a cold winter’s night.

The menu encompasses everything from fresh lobster rolls to chowder and fish to more traditional fare such as quesadillas, linguine, salads, and sandwiches.  After visiting the art museum, our group of four lunched here.  A couple of us skipped seafood in favor of a Caesar salad with chicken or New England style Shepherd’s Pie.  

The other two were happy with fish and chips with slaw and fries and a chopped salad with hard-boiled egg, almonds, and blue cheese dressing.  Whatever you crave, there’s bound to be something to tempt your palate.  Usually when we come here, the dining room is slightly full; this day, every table was soon occupied with even a group waiting in the wings.  It was just a Wednesday in July—high summer.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Maine Coast: Lots of Lobster & A Mystery

Maine’s rocky coast

MAINE AND ITS LOBSTERS

Maine State Aquarium

Red lobsters, blue lobsters, and white lobsters.  You can learn about them and even see some specimens at the Maine State Aquarium which is part of the Maine Discovery Center.  This facility is in West Boothbay Harbor at McKown Point.  

Interior of aquarium showing 26 ft. Minke whale skeleton

We visited this tiny museum, which since our last visit about 10 years ago, was renovated and updated in 2024.  There is still a touch tank along with other cases highlighting scallop harvesting and some of the region’s fish, sea stars, and other creatures.  The two blue lobsters, one adult and one young one, were especially impressive, as is the Minke whale skeleton above.

Adult blue lobster at Maine State Aquarium

We enjoyed the fresh air on the museum porch for a short presentation on lobsters: their shells and the molting process, the strength in their claws, their lifespan, and the astounding number of eggs one female can produce. It was a fascinating, well-delivered talk and gave me a new appreciation for this crustacean which we so enjoy consuming when we are in Maine! 

Speaking of lobsters, I made lobster rolls for dinner as a treat for my visiting sister and brother-in-law.  A pound of lobster meat shared among four people is indeed a delight.  This recipe had a mayonnaise and lemon dressing, but the meat was first warmed in melted butter—the result being a sort of cross between the traditional cold roll and the Connecticut hot one. Delicious!

DINING AROUND: CHOWDER, HADDOCK, & MORE, Pt. 1

McSeagull’s  (Boothbay Harbor)

We lunched here with S and B and so far, McSeagull’s clam chowder remains the best ever.  It’s thick with clams and potatoes, topped with bits of bacon, and enhanced with herbs.  A cup of it is very satisfying and practically a meal in itself.  After mine, I enjoyed a small Caesar salad, while the others tucked into haddock bites, fries, and the yummy-looking lobster bruschetta. It’s high summer, and the restaurant was packed!  Fortunately, we had a reservation.

Cozy’s Dockside (Cozy Harbor, Southport)

Cozy’s clam chowder is very good also (no bacon) and full of clams.  Several of us had a cup of it with dinner one night.  I ordered the haddock Reuben, an occasional special of haddock chunks on toasted sourdough with sauerkraut and the requisite Thousand Island dressing.  It’s a big sandwich (comes with chips), so I happily took home half for the next day’s lunch. Others ordered haddock tacos (also large), romaine salad, and the chili hot dogs.  It being blueberry season, it seemed only appropriate to order a piece of blueberry pie to take away. 

Outside seating at Cozy’s

The joint is very casual, and the service is friendly (thank you, Sally) with seating inside or at picnic tables on the wharf overlooking the harbor.  Servings are generous, and no one should go hungry!  

SUMMER READING: TUNNELS & DEATH IN NORWICH

The Chalk Pit by Elly Griffiths

Griffiths (penguinrandomhouse.com)

The Chalk Pit is #9 in the Ruth Galloway series.  I think it’s one of the best works so far in this series.  Some suspicious bones are found in an underground tunnel which means archaeologist Ruth is called upon to offer her expertise.  When several rough sleepers, a local designation for street people or the homeless, are found murdered, DCI Harry Nelson and his colleagues Judy Johnson and Dave Clough have a complex puzzle to solve.  Add in the sudden disappearances of several unrelated women and the mystery deepens.  

Crime solving always involves leads and false starts which are intriguing, but I enjoyed this mystery as much for the interactions between Ruth and Kate, her now 6-year-old daughter, and theirs together with Nelson.  Druid Cathbad and Judy Johnson’s children also play a role, and Griffiths captures well the behavior of young children.  Puzzling, delightful, and good escapism! And I just learned that Griffiths is a pseudonym, and her mysteries are inspired by her archaeologist husband and an aunt who lives on the Norfolk coast.. (~JWFarrington)

Note: All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

Maine Moments: Relaxing, Reading & Watching

A LAZY WEEK

View from Southport coast (JWF)

We escaped the heat after Portland and are now happily settled mid coast on Southport Island.  I have to confess that we have been somewhat lazy this week.  Not in terms of projects, though.  I’ve re-discovered Zentangle and have been having fun creating one tile each day, while the Chief Penguin is keeping up with politics and writing.  

I joined my Zoom yoga group twice, and the C. P. and I went for a walk in the neighborhood on Thursday.  In between, we’ve been stocking the larder with multiple trips to Hannaford, the local supermarket, and Pinkham’s Gourmet Market.  The former has all the basics while the latter stocks fresh fish and seafood along with a variety of store-made deli salads and more jarred temptations than one can imagine.  We are now set for a while and the arrival of one sister and brother-in-law.

SUMMER READING:

POST OFFICE MURALS AND RACE RELATIONS

Big Lies in a Small Town by Diane Chamberlain (2019) 

Chamberlain (usmacmillan.com)

Set in Edenton, North Carolina in 1940 and 2018, author Diane Chamberlain uses the WPA contest for murals to be hung in post offices across the country as her jumping off point.  There was a real WPA competition to design and then create murals, but Edenton was not one of the chosen towns.  Aspiring young artist, Anna Dale from New Jersey, is selected for North Carolina even though she submitted a sketch for her own hometown.   

It’s 1940, and Anna must create a sketch for this small town, get it approved, and then actually produce it to be hung.  She solicits volunteer help from local students and initially has two white students, a boy and a girl, and then one talented young black man named Jesse who is a bit older.  The times being what they are, some folks in town are upset that she is working with Jesse. Popular local artist Martin Drapple and his wife feel strongly that his contest entry was unfairly rejected.

In 2018, wannabe artist Morgan Christopher, in prison for a crime she didn’t commit, is offered early release and parole if she will restore the Edenton post office mural.  It had disappeared in 1940 and never been hung.  It turned up in the possession of now deceased artist Jesse Williams who left specific instructions as to who was to restore it and the very strict timeline required.  Morgan takes up the challenge, moves in with Jesse’s daughter Lisa, and has to quickly learn about art restoration.  The mural is badly damaged and has some strange extra touches, prompting Morgan and her colleagues to want to know more about the elusive Anna Dale who disappeared. 

Alternating chapters about Anna and Morgan keep the reader in suspense about what ultimately happened to Anna and whether Morgan will be able to complete the mural in time for its public showing.  It’s a fast-paced read, and I whipped through it in 2 days!  Does it all hang together?  Is the ending too neat or is it convincing?  In any case, I thoroughly enjoyed it— good historical fare and gripping summer escapism!  I will miss my book group’s discussion of it, but now I really need to visit Edenton.  (~JWFarrington)

MOVIE TIME: HISTORICAL GEM

The Choral (Netflix)

Choir master Fiennes backed by Duxbury and colleagues (theaureview.com)

We missed this film when it aired in Cary, so it was a treat to watch it here.  Set in a Yorkshire village in 1916, it’s a worrisome time.  Young men are going off to war, often volunteering, but soon all of a certain age will have no option.  Mill owner Mr. Bernard Duxbury likes singing and is very proud of the town choral.  When the choir master leaves to fight, he must recruit a new leader.  

Mr. Guthrie is a musician, but he is suspect for having lived in Germany.  Initially planning to sing Bach’s challenging St. Matthew Passion oratorio, this rag tag band of locals and injured soldiers takes up a work by Englishman Edward Elgar.  Inspired by the real Huddersfield Choral Society, the film is sweet at points and also poignant.  The cast features Ralph Fiennes as the choir master and Roger Allam as Mr. Duxbury.  Recommended, particularly if you like choral music.

Maine Moments: Portland Interlude

ARRIVING

We landed in Portland on Thursday afternoon expecting cool breezes, but it was hot.  Not as hot as we North Carolinians have been experiencing, but HOT for Maine.  Also because we spent more time wandering around outside in the bright sun than at home.  Overall, the heat prompted a lazier approach to our 36 hours here.  More time in our favorite local bookstores, Longfellow Books, and Sherman’s.  Two long visits to Longfellow’s shop and a brief one to Sherman’s which was packed with browsers.  And we slotted in some delicious meals.  

EATING WELL IN PORTLAND

David’s Restaurant

Our tradition for dinner on arrival day is to head to David’s, a popular restaurant at Monument Square serving the requisite lobster roll and other more creative fare.  There are also a few daily specials to tempt the palate.  This time, we began with the fried calamari which pops with hot pepper slices, tomato bits, little black olives, and feta. Yum! 

Caesar salad at David’s

The Chief Penguin had Caesar salad, a stacked version with lovely lettuces, not the typical romaine, while I tucked into my first lobster roll of the season.  A tasty one with a small side salad, also interestingly done.

First lobster roll of 2026!

These dishes with glasses of a crisp Albariño made for a perfect first meal.

Duckfat

Staff at Duckfat

We could have had clam chowder and fish sandwiches for lunch, but opted instead to check out Duckfat, a very small eatery we hadn’t been to in several years.  Inside are counters with low stools and a bar; outside is covered seating, perhaps from Covid days. This was an indulgent lunch. 

 A stand-up cone of Belgian fries cooked in, you guessed it, duck fat and served with two dipping sauces, jalapeño lime and truffle ketchup.  We followed the fries with large sandwiches on some toothsome sourdough.  I opted for the grilled cheese and smoked turkey while the C.P ordered grilled cheese and Tasso ham.  This is not your ordinary grilled cheese sandwich; it is elevated with cheddar and raclette slathered with sun-dried tomato pesto. Had we not had fries, we might have been able to eat the entire sandwich; as it was we each savored just half.

Leeward (Arts District)

When it opened in 2020, Leeward was highly touted gaining lots of attention. Since then, its chef has been a James Beard Foundation nominee or semi-finalist almost every year.  On Free Street, not too far from the Portland Museum of Art, it’s light and attractive inside.  The cuisine is mostly Italian with a nod to innovative pasta dishes. The menu is compact and all the offerings carefully crafted.  We began with the Simple Salad—not so simple really with a red wine dressing, local lettuces, a few thin whispers of Piave cheese, and candied pecans.  Perfect for a warm night. 

I went vegetarian this meal (my sisters would be surprised!) and loved the luscious radiatore pasta with olive pesto, zucchini rounds, pine nuts, and Parmesan cheese. The CP went for the tagliatelle with fresh porcini mushrooms and a bit of prosciutto. 

Pasta with porcini

Delicious overall and very satisfying!

DEPARTING PORTLAND

 We got an earlier start than usual on Saturday morning, and all was well.  Then the car fob didn’t work.   A hotel valet extracted the key and was able to open up the car which was parked in a nearby lot.  But the car wouldn’t start.  Key question, was the car battery dead or was it just the fob battery?  Fortunately, testing indicated that it was the fob and not the car.  

Meanwhile, I was just outside the hotel on a bench keeping watch over our luggage and enjoying the now cooler air. With no hotel car available to provide a lift, and knowing his way around downtown Portland very well, the Chief Penguin walked briskly to the nearby CVS to purchase a new fob battery.  The helpful salesclerk there opened the plastic packaging and made it easy to put the new battery in the fob.

Fob in hand, the CP returned, the car started, the luggage was loaded, and we headed north.  We were grateful for the assistance of the enterprising hotel valet and the CVS clerk.  Now we’re happily ensconced on Southport Island with views of the ocean and cove!

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)