Bethlehem: Town & Gown et al

MORAVIANS –TUCKED IN

As one wanders the quiet streets of historic north Bethlehem, the Central Moravian Church and the residences for the sisters and brethren are a presence prominently on view.  Go down to the Colonial Industrial Quarter behind Hotel Bethlehem, and you will discover a somewhat hidden creekside park.

Monocacy Creek

Take a narrow alleyway off Main Street, and you may find yourself tucked in midst the buildings of Moravian University.  (In our day, it was Moravian College with its main north campus a mile away.)

Building on downtown Moravian University campus

Here we explored the downtown Priscilla Payne Hurd (south) Campus and learned some things we did not know.  First off, Moravian University was founded in 1742 (very soon after Bethlehem itself) and claims to be the first college to educate women.  It’s also a part of the recently designated World Heritage Moravian Church Settlements.  

The Chief Penguin and I knew Prill Hurd, an active local philanthropist, and for me an occasional lunch date at the country club.  She was smart, gracious, forceful when needed, but didn’t suffer fools.  I always enjoyed her company.  

Choir offices nestled behind Main Street

Also set back behind Main Street is the office of the Bach Choir. Bethlehem’s Bach Choir is noted and venerable and annually presented a series of spring concerts in the Lehigh church. Recently, the choir was the subject of an article in the Financial Times which stated that despite differing views, the singers leave their politics at the door.

LEHIGH ON THE MOUNTAIN

Lehigh campus in the distance from downtown

Lehigh University was founded in 1865 by entrepreneur and philanthropist Asa Packer.  

Standing with Asa Packer in front of Alumni Hall

Across the Lehigh River from Moravian Bethlehem, Lehigh sits on the side of a mountain.  Living here, it helps to be part mountain goat as the terrain is steep and everywhere, there are steps and stairs to climb.

Staircase adjacent to Lehigh’s business school

Last week, the Chief Penguin and I cheered on the football team and walked a lot of the campus.  When we arrived in 1998, town and gown were not close or well-integrated.  Physically, an empty macadam parking circle and drop-off area were between Lehigh and the Southside business district.  Like a moat separating the two, he declared, and as president, he worked to change that.  Over the next couple years, Campus Square was constructed.  

It’s a residence hall for students, but equally important, a retail center with the campus bookstore and several restaurants including the beloved local ice cream shop, The Cup.  The Chief Penguin also initiated regular breakfasts with the mayor and invited the members of city council to the President’s House.  Gradually, the breech between gown and town lessened.  

In a reflection of the times, the bookstore is now the Lehigh Store

In 2015, Campus Square was renamed and dedicated as Farrington Square in honor of the president and me. This visit, we were in Farrington Square during the weekly farmer’s market.  Students lined up for coffee and sweet treats, while townspeople checked out the local produce. Nearby tables offered a place to sit.

We also toured the current exhibits at the Lehigh University Art Galleries, “This Land: Reimagining the United States of America on its 250th Anniversary,” and an impressive study by a Lehigh student about the color and chemistry of ceramic bowls and vases in the collection.  

On our last night, we had dinner at the President’s House with the current president and his wife.  We were warmly welcomed, and it was a treat to see again the beautiful spaces we inhabited for 8 years.  Memories of events and good times flooded back.

WATCHING

East of Eden (Netflix)

Charles cutting Adam’s hair (ew.com)

John Steinbeck’s novel, East of Eden, was published in 1952, and a movie version made in 1955 starred James Dean as Cal and Raymond Massey as their father.  This new 7-part East of Eden series is based on the book, but it gives the manipulative Cathy a bigger role.  It’s a story of the Trask family, half-brothers Charles and Adam and their descendants, inspired by the Biblical story of Cain and Abel. 

We have watched the first two episodes of the series.  I never read the book, but I’m finding the series dark and brutal and am waiting to see how it all plays out.  We will continue watching so, I’ll hold back on a recommendation for now. 

Note: Unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

More Bethlehem: Steel Mill to Casino

STEELSTACKS

Bethlehem Steel, with roots in two earlier companies, was founded in 1899 and only ceased production here in 1995.  The company had plants and subsidiaries around the world. Bethlehem Steel produced the steel for the Empire State Building and its west coast subsidiary manufactured the steel and did most of the construction of the Golden Gate Bridge .

Around 31,000 people worked here in this Lehigh Valley plant at its peak in the mid 1950s. When the day shift ended, traffic back-ups on Southside Bethlehem streets were the norm.  Lehigh University timed some events and classes to avoid the traffic.

Since the company’s beginnings, blast furnaces and hulking structures have dominated Bethlehem’s skyline near the river.  During production, the smell of sulfur (like rotten eggs) filled the air along with coal smoke; soot and red iron ore dust often settled on cars and swimming pools. Fortunately, when the Chief Penguin and I arrived in 1998, the air was clear!

In the early 2000s, locals and developers were interested in making something of the remains of this extensive site and first created SteelStacks.  This 10-acre site is a cultural and event space offering concerts and shows and is home to ArtsQuest (performing arts center, cinema, restaurant) an ice rink, an outdoor amphitheater, and the Hoover Mason Trestle (a public skywalk). Also on the site is the long-planned National Museum of Industrial History, an affiliate of the Smithsonian which opened in 2016. 

In 2015, the CP and I walked the impressive Hoover Mason Trestle for a lesson in steel production. (See images above and below.)

When we lived in Bethlehem, ArtsQuest was just the Banana Factory on West 3rd Street with programs and studio space for local artists. That building is now gone, and a new 5-story one, the ArtsQuest Creative Factory, is under construction and slated to open by early 2027.

ONWARD TO A CASINO

At about the same time (early 2000s), developers proposed the addition of a casino with restaurants, shops, and a hotel.  Some locals were opposed to having a gambling venue here, not that far from the university.  Others in the community saw the economic benefits of this project in creating jobs and attracting visitors.  The Chief Penguin, then the Lehigh University president, was urged by some to publicly oppose the casino.  He did not. 

In 2009, Sands Casino opened in Bethlehem and its hotel in 2011.  In 2019, another corporation bought the casino and re-branded it as Wind Creek Bethlehem which is its name today.

The only casino I had ever been in was a small one on a cruise ship.  We walked through it on our way to a dining venue.  Given all the development that had taken place at SteelStacks, it seemed appropriate that we satisfy our curiosity and check out the casino complex. 

Lunch at Wind Creek

I made a reservation at Urban Table for lunch and off we went to find Wind Creek.  Lots of cars were in the parking lot, and it was not clear where to find the restaurant.  We entered the events building, took the escalator up, and were greeted by a raft of outlet stores.  Seeing no signs, I called the restaurant and got directions.  Continue through the stores, get to the casino entrance, turn left, and watch for Urban Table signs.  We found it! 

We had a delightful waiter from New Jersey, who likes and studies foreign languages, and a tasty lunch.  I enjoyed a delicious thick tomato bisque with croutons, and the CP had corn and crab chowder to start. We shared a Caesar salad and an order of beef empanadas.  The food exceeded our expectations. 

Casino entrance

We had no intention of entering the casino. But, from behind the low barrier, we could see how many people were there (quite a few) and note bright screen after bright screen and several rows of slot machines. It’s an expansive space and dark, lit mainly by the screens and colored lights above and around.

Slots and screens
Casino screens galore
Around the casino

After taking a few photos, we departed, driving through SteelStacks on our way back to historic Main Street. Curiosity satisfied. No need to return to gamble.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Back to Bethlehem: History & Re-connection

HISTORIC BETHLEHEM

Bell House 1745 (girls’ school, 1749)

A group of Moravians from Germany founded Bethlehem in 1741.  They established their church, built a school, created a bookstore, Moravian Book Shop, and built separate residences for men (brethren) and women (sisters and widows.) Many of these early 18th century buildings remain today, well preserved and elegant in their simple lines.

Central Church background with another Moravian building

Central Moravian Church, the mother church in this country, dominates the corner of Church and Main Streets, an imposing presence with a striking bell tower. 

In 2024, after a long decade of applications, documentation, and persistence by the Historic Bethlehem organization, the Historic Moravian District was named a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Moravian settlements in Germany, Northern Ireland, and Denmark. 

More Moravian buildings near church

Visitors to Bethlehem can also see the Bell House and Old Chapel, tour the Moravian and Kemerer Museums, and as a bonus, discover the Colonial Industrial Quarter with its 1762 Waterworks (a National Historic Landmark), 1761 Tannery, and blacksmith shop from 1750.

 Returning to Bethlehem, I was delighted to see the greater acknowledgement and presence of this city’s unique history and to have a chance encounter with LoriAnn Wukitsch, CEO of Historic Bethlehem.  When I lived here, I served on the Historic Bethlehem board.

LEHIGH DAYS

Studying on the campus green

In 1865, Asa Packer founded Lehigh University across the Lehigh River in what was then called South Bethlehem. It was the industrial side and became home to a large steel plant.  North Bethlehem (Moravian) and South Bethlehem (steel) did not officially become one city until 1917. 

Side view, Lehigh President’s House, 1868

From 1998 until 2006, the Chief Penguin and I lived in Bethlehem in the center of the Lehigh campus.  He was president, and I had dual roles as a full-time librarian/development officer and First Lady and was involved in the community.  We lived in the stately 1868 President’s House.  Its renovation was featured in Architectural Digest in 1999.

This week we returned to Bethlehem and Lehigh to re-connect with the campus and with longtime friends and colleagues.  We were here briefly a few years ago for the installation of the current president, but not for very long. The campus is still beautiful and shows well! 

Clayton University Center

One day we checked out every floor of the recently renovated Clayton University Center from new spaces for student clubs, the Lehigh Pub bistro, and an added set of eateries for students offering everything from pizza, salads and soups to Mediterranean fare and barbecue. All spaces are light and bright and invite conversation and collaboration. 

Lounge space in Clayton UC
Asa’s Place, food & studying
Gathering space (former Asa Packer Room)

For old-times sake, stopping in Linderman Library was also a must.  The reading room is still grand and glorious, the rotunda with its stained-glass dome lovely, and the entire building filled with many places to sit and study or just ponder life.

Side view, Linderman Library
Grand reading room

This historic library (1878 and 1929) was most recently renovated and updated in 2007. (I was involved in that project.) Since its renovation, Linderman is frequently cited as one of the most beautiful libraries anywhere. Kudos to the university for preserving this special place.

Rotunda seating
Rotunda dome

The Chief Penguin and I also enjoyed a series of lunches and dinners with many friends and re-connected with others at a Lehigh breakfast.  That afternoon, we had the fun of being at a home football game in Goodman Stadium.  The Marching 97 (now 113 or so strong) gave a great halftime performance ending with spelling out Lehigh.

At the game

It was a sunny day, the temperature was perfect, and Lehigh remained undefeated!  

From the breakfast events through dinner at the local country club, from beginning to end, this day was a treat.  It turns out you can go home again—if only for a brief interlude!

Note: All photos but the last one ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Fall Interlude: Music & More in Philadelphia

FABULOUS CONCERT!

Philadelphia Orchestra at the Kimmel Center

Thursday evening was the opening concert of the orchestra’s 2026-27 season, and it was fabulous!  It’s the 25th anniversary of the Kimmel Center and the recently named Marian Anderson Hall made for a magnificent concert setting.  It was Philadelphia at its finest. 

Philadelphia Orchestra opening night

The concert was a benefit for the musicians’ retirement fund, and the program was just two works, Orbis by composer in residence Joe Hisaishi, and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9.  Hisaishi intended Orbis as a choral prequel to that symphony.  It was a lovely beginning and then we heard all four movements of Beethoven’s 9th.  With an energetic Yannick Nezet-Seguin at the podium, the musicians played their hearts out, and we were mesmerized.  When we lived here, we had series tickets.  This concert made for a great start to our return visit. 

SCULPTURE WRIT LARGE

Calder Gardens

A new institution on the Center City art scene, Calder Gardens is dedicated to Alexander Calder who lived from 1898 to 1976.  A Philadelphian by birth, Calder came from a family of sculptors as both his father and grandfather were artists.  His father designed the Swann Memorial Fountain here and the Washington Square Arch in Manhattan, while his grandfather produced architectural sculptures including the statue of William Penn on top of Philadelphia City Hall. This Calder created both mobiles and monumental abstract sculptures.

Exterior of Calder Gardens complex

Calder Gardens is both gardens or plantings and a low-slung long building that is partly below ground.  A slightly meandering path through beds of grasses and rushes and the occasional stand of flowers leads to an unmarked entrance.  The indoor sculptures are downstairs, and there are several outside accessed only from that level.  There are no labels or interpretative panels for any work, and the intention is that one views the work in a contemplative manner. 

One of the few large works inside

We are pleased that this recognition of Alexander Calder is here in his birthplace and not elsewhere. But we were a bit underwhelmed by the whole experience.

DINING AROUND

On our arrival day, we took advantage of the pleasant weather and enjoyed lunch outside at Rouge overlooking Rittenhouse Square.  Keeping it on the light side, the Chief Penguin ordered fried calamari, and I had half of a tasty chicken sandwich.  We shared my fries.  That night we sampled the creative cuisine at a. kitchen.  He was delighted with his tuna crudo dish and the generous gem salad.  I tried the homemade spaghetti with a light sausage and fennel sauce.   

Before going to Calder Gardens, we walked to Callowhill Street where we were told there was a Pain Quotidienne.  No such eatery in sight, so we turned around and went to the Logan.  The Logan is the site of the former Four Seasons Hotel and the Fountain Room, one of the city’s top two restaurants in its day.  Helmed then by Jean-Marie Lacroix, it and Le Bec Fin competed for the most discriminating diners.  Sadly, neither restaurant exists today.

In 1990, we and good friends Ellen and Bob dined in the Fountain Room at one of the city’s annual The Cook and the Book events. Julia Child was the featured guest. Unlike other chefs we’d met, tall Julia stood regally at the entrance to the dining room, greeting everyone and shaking hands. Later, she made the traditional round to the tables signing copies of her cookbook. It was such a treat to meet her and, without a doubt, the most memorable Cook and the Book event we attended.

The food at these two restaurants was refined, sophisticated, and creative.  We had the pleasure of meals at each and have fond memories of the dessert trolley and the cheese cart at Le Bec Fin.  Georges Perrier was its master chef, and we savored the products of his talent. 

Today, the Fountain Room is now Urban Farmer, a casual restaurant reflecting today’s farm to table movement.  While attractive but not elegant, it fit the bill nicely for lunch.  Their $17 Quick Cut menu offered a choice of two dishes plus cornbread.  The CP had the potato leek soup followed by a Caesar salad; I opted for a Caesar salad with chicken.  Pleasant surroundings and all very good.

Cornbread silo

The next night we tried Miss Saigon, a Vietnamese restaurant not too far from the Kimmel Center.  The reviews were laudatory, and the lower level was full of diners when we left; our spring rolls seemed off but the lemongrass chicken curry was reasonably good. A disappointing meal in a lovely setting.

After visiting a good friend in Jenkintown, we returned to Gran Caffe L’Aquila, a favorite restauant from our visit two years ago.  With the house salad, beautiful, sliced prosciutto, fried artichokes, and a delectable ravioli entrée, we were very content!   We are here a few more days and look forward to more great food.

Note: Photos by the Farringtons.