Cultural Cuba: Art, Music et al (#3)

MONDAY, JAN. 28

Art in a storm

Metal mosquito sculpture on exterior of art factory

Last night was more of an adventure than we anticipated.  As scheduled, we arrived at the Cuban Art Factory, a repurposed cooking oil factory with exhibit galleries, a movie theater, and performance space, for a tour by a young staff member.  He explained that the factory had been empty for more than 30 years and that they had to renovate it before opening several years ago.  They now offer programming every evening from Thursday to Sunday and draw 2500 guests.  There are nine bars scattered about and a private restaurant on the top floor.  

We toured two levels of art and were impressed by the range of photography and paintings, much of it focusing on social issues.

Full length wall mural for which I didn’t get the artist
Carlos Marx by Lazaro Saavedra
Part of a larger piece showing people at ease by Toirac & Marin

It had begun to rain and on the way upstairs to Tierra for dinner, we were briefly outside in the rain. We walked through one area of tables and then through a glass door to our table.  We ordered drinks and then watched the teeming rain cascade off the plastic covering of the space next to us.  It streamed down repeatedly and suddenly everything went dark.  The tables all had candles, and most everyone around had a smartphone with a flashlight for reading the menu.  Meanwhile I watched more rain pour off the plastic tarp roofing in the next room and hoped that there would be no dire consequences.  

Our drinks eventually arrived and we ordered the rest of our meal.  Although there were no salads to be had, surprisingly, this kitchen and waitstaff working by flashlight and candles, were able to produce fish and chips and a chicken Thai dish that was very good!  Despite the pounding rain and the lack of illumination, no one left the dining room prematurely.  Joining us at the table was William Acosta, an up and coming young painter, who is doing very well.  He previously did sculpture, but found painting to be easier to create (supplies have to be ordered from abroad in advance) and more salable.  He is represented by art dealers in New York and San Francisco and other cities and will be a part of the Havana Biennial (big art show) in April.

It was still raining hard and dark as we left the restaurant and carefully picked our way down the several levels of stairs, iPhone flashlights in hand, to board our bus back. It was dark all the way and the hotel too was dark.  The rain was so heavy that we had puddles on our stone floor from the wind and heavy rain that came through one window and under the door.  With no light (it was already 10:30 pm), we went to bed and were reassured when the ceiling fan whirred to life around 2:30 am.  

Insights from a Journalist

On Monday morning, we had awonderful talk on Cuba from the perspective of an American journalist Marc Frank, now with Reuters who previously worked as a reporter for ABC News.  Author of Cuban Revelations, he has lived in Havana for more than 20 years, is married to a Cuban woman, and has both a daughter and a stepdaughter.  Instead of PowerPoint, he had props or toys, as he called them, to illustrate his talk:  a water bottle for the U. S., its cap to represent Cuba, and a small red funnel with line markings he used to describe different periods in Cuba’s history.

Initially he told us that he had been awakened at 3:30 am by a phone call from someone in the Dominican Republic informing him about the tornado in Havana. He didn’t believe it at first, but other calls followed.  This was the first most of us knew that last night’s weather had been a particularly strong and destructive tornado and the first one in Havana since 1940. Mr. Frank was a fount of information and insights, amusing, and easy to listen to.   We had several morning presentations during our trip, and since we were a small group, these were easily accommodated in the hotel’s outdoor garden area.

Architectural tour

The rest of the morning was devoted to a walking tour with noted Cuban architect, Universo Garcia Lorenzo, who is also a professor of design.  

Passionate about his calling, he led us on a delightful stroll down the Paseo del Prada describing the architectural styles and history of the buildings on either side of the promenade and also took us into the lobbies of two hotels.  He and his architect wife renovated the Hotel Telegrafo named for the first telegraph station.

Professor Garcia Lorenzo

They retained the style of the original façade and added two stories which have a simpler more contemporary look to them.  The lobby inside was gorgeous, on one side very modern and on the other more traditional with the original stone arches and a lovely soft toned mural.  The other hotel, Hotel Sevilla, was also grand and beautiful, but totally different in style.  It was a great presentation!

Exterior of Hotel Telegrafo

Lobby seating in Hotel Telegrafo

Lunch and afternoon touring

Lunch was at the famous and old restaurant, Paladar La Guarida, in a building that, although in need of repair, has an impressive winding staircase.   The dining rooms have ochre walls covered with historic photos and memorabilia.  We got several small appetizers—squash soup, tiny fish taco, eggplant caviar in a cream sauce, and a spinach crepe filled with chicken in a mild raspberry coulis. 

Three of the appetizers: soup, taco, and eggplant

These were followed by a choice of entree:  baked lemon chicken, grilled fish, pork, or lobster.  I had the chicken and the Chief Penguin the fish, and both were very good. On the table for all were bowls of white rice, Moors & Christians (black beans and rice), boiled yucca, and fried plantains.  Dessert was a tiny taste of lemon pudding and crumbled cookie and a small mound of chocolate pudding.  Mojitos to start as usual.  Very tasty lunch and again plenty of food!  Those who know me well know I’m a foodie so I’m always ready to describe what we ate!

After lunch we visited the famous Revolution Square, a wide-open paved space surrounded by government buildings and monuments.  It is here that in January 1998 one million Cubans came to hear Pope John Paul II say mass and here also that Fidel Castro delivered a six-hour speech.  There is something to see in all directions:  next to a tall tower a statue of Jose San Marti, philosopher and poet and probably the most famous person all Cubans relate to, and black outlines of the faces of Che Guevara and another revolutionary, Camilo Ciengfuegos, on the Ministry of the Interior and the telecommunications buildings.

Jose Marti statue
Che Guevara mural

The next stop was lighter in mood as we stepped back in time to the historic Hotel Nacional.  Dating to the 1930’s, it attracted international visitors and performers from around the world.  In the lounge are large posters, one for each decade from the 1930’s to the present, with photographs of some of these personages.  Everyone from Churchill and Obama to Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra. 

Our last stop of the day was a huge arts and crafts warehouse on the Malecon with stall after stall of t-shirts, leather handbags and wallets, cigars, and the like, plus at the back, rows and rows of Cuban drawings and paintings.  

Percussion, anyone?

In the evening two teachers from the Havana Music School demonstrated several different percussion instruments. Then they taught us the techniques for playing them: clava, washboard gourd, and maracas.  Having mastered these, or not, we then tried to incorporate salsa dance steps with the instruments.  Several of us were very adept at one or the other, but only one person seemed able to do two things at once—play and dance simultaneously!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

SRQ Scene: Art & Nature

The Fence at Nathan Benderson Park. (Sarasota)

The Fence2018 is a traveling outdoor photography exhibit that will go to eight cities across the country including Boston, Atlanta, and Santa Fe.  Currently in Sarasota, it is on two sections of double-sided fencing on the perimeter of Benderson Park.  The photos have been enlarged and are printed on fabric which is attached to the fence. Depending on the time of day and the light, the cross-hatching of the fence may show through obscuring the images a bit.  We were there just before noon and one side was somewhat affected.  

The photos are arranged by categories with explanations about the photographer and what he or she was trying to accomplish.  Subject matter ranges widely from food to former female prisoners at home to topography to dog grooming to families living on either side of the border meeting at a wall.  Whimsy, humor, pathos, and celebration exist in these photos.  The exhibit runs through the end of January and is worth a visit.

Part of “Hairy” series by Grace Chon
Azalea Trail Maid by Adair Rutledge

R

Being obscured in nature by Brooke Didonato

Robinson Preserve (Bradenton)

A number of my friends have enthused about Robinson Preserve and how much they have enjoyed kayaking here.  We had never visited it before, but it’s close by and used my sister and brother-in-law’s visit as incentive to do so.  Located in northwest Bradenton, this preserve is very open and includes grasslands and saltwater marsh.  There are a number of hiking and biking trails and a pedestrians only path.  The pedestrian path is wide and made of a spongy material making it very comfortable under the feet.  It winds around several ponds and up and down gentle inclines.   We saw a large cluster of ducks as well as white pelicans, anhingas, and herons.  Even one lone roseate spoonbill.  The preserve is open from sunrise to early evening and has an observation tower and pavilion which we didn’t explore this time.  For a change of pace, this pleasant preserve is a relaxing way to enjoy nature.

White pelicans


Note: All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Chile: Pre-Columbian Art

PRE-COLUMBIAN ART

Happy Thanksgiving to all my American readers!  We’re still in Santiago so no turkey for us this year, but we’ve had an absolutely marvelous time these past four weeks.

Yesterday we toured the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino or the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art.  It’s in an historic building that was damaged by the 2010 earthquake.  It took five years of restoration and refurbishment before it re-opened to the public.  Exhibits on the second or main floor cover examples of ceramics, sculpture, and textiles from different ethnic groups from the greater Latin America area including Ecuador and Peru.

Man chewing coca leaves (By a Capuli potter).

Burial Urn (Mosquito Culture, AD 1200-1500)

I found the separate textile gallery especially noteworthy—the level of detail in some of the patterns and the intricacy of the weaving were amazing. No photos here, alas.  Fortunately, the exhibit labels were in English as well as Spanish throughout the museum.

We then descended several staircases to the lower level exhibit focusing exclusively on Pre-Columbian art from Chile. And what an experience this was!  The space has black walls and is minimally lit with cases displaying ceramics, fabrics and sculpture.  What was most striking were the lifesize carved wooden male and female figures.  They were made by the Mapuche people and put on top of tombs to pave their journey to the afterlife.

We relaxed in the afternoon, took another walk to the local park, and then had an early dinner at Gracia, a tapas restaurant several blocks away. The tapas weren’t the equal of Barcelona or Coqueta in San Francisco, but fit the bill. The Serrano ham was the highlight.

Today we wind up our trip and return to the States. The Chileans have been most welcoming, and we feel as if we made a few friends along the way. Hasta la vista!

Note:  All photos by JWFarrington.  Header photo is an example of street art next to a bit of graffiti in downtown Santiago.

Manhattan Diversions: Movies, Art, etc.

 

RECENT FILMS
Free Solo
This is a breathtaking and stunning National Geographic documentary about free soloing on Yosemite’s El Capitan. That is, climbing its 3,000 foot rock wall without any ropes. The first person to ever do that was Alex Hannold in June 2017, and this is the story and the backstory of that historic climb. What makes this such a fascinating film is that you learn a lot about Alex as a person and what drives him and why, as much as he can articulate it, he feels compelled to undertake such a risky climb.

The film crew, several other professional climbers, and his girlfriend Sanni, are also prominently featured. I found the fears of the film crew on his behalf and Sanni’s candor about their relationship and her concerns about how Alex communicates emotion added a richness and intimacy to the film. Highly recommend it!

A Star is Born
This is the fourth version or re-make of this film, this time starring Bradley Cooper who also directs it, and Lady Gaga. I’ve heard Lady Gaga sing a few times, but it was a new and amazing experience to see her develop in this part. The movie has lots of loud music and is as much a concert at times as it is a drama. Cooper stars as Jackson Maine, a popular singer on his way down, and Lady Gaga as Ally, the ingenue he discovers whose career quickly outstrips his.

I thought the film was a bit long and slow in parts, but appreciated that although Jackson lets her down repeatedly, Ally is never mean or nasty, but basically loving, not a side of celebrities that movies always depict. Go and you may leave humming the tune to “Shallow.”

EXHIBIT NOTES
Dorothea Lange’s America at Reynolda House Museum of American art
In North Carolina, this small gallery photography exhibit consists of a number of Lange’s portraits and scenes depicting poverty and hardship during the 1920’s and 30’s. Also included are photos by Walker Evans and others from the same period. What made the exhibit more meaningful for me were the longer explanations of context and setting on some of the labels. If you to to Winston-Salem, you can also tour the Reynolds home (he, the tobacco baron) and the attractive gardens on the property.

Delacroix at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
The 18th century French painter, Eugene Delacroix, was a master draftsman. This small exhibit focuses on a variety of sketches and drawings he did in preparation for larger paintings. Several small watercolors are also included.

Chagall, Lissitzky, Malevich:  The Russian Avant-Garde in Vitebsk, 1918-1922 at the Jewish Museum

This featured exhibit covers a short period in Russian art after the overthrow of the czar when Chagall and others founded an art school.  The dominant art movement was Suprematism, founded by Malevich, which used basic geometric shapes and a limited color palette in both painting and architecture.  Chagall soon drifted away from strict adherence to it.

FABULOUS PLAY!


Most everyone has seen one version or another of My Fair Lady and probably one of the film versions which has a happy ending, not part of George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion.  This new production at Lincoln Center is truly a My Fair Lady for our time. Lauren Ambrose is luminescent as Eliza Doolittle, who starts out as a lonely flower seller, but comes into her own as a woman by taking up Professor Higgins’ offer to pass her off as a lady.
The stage sets are amazing with a pointed contrast between Higgins’ elaborately designed house and the often bare stage on which Eliza sings or cavorts. Choreography is exuberant, occasionally to the point of boisterousness, as in Alfred Doolittle’s rousing rendition of “Get Me to the Church on Time,” complete with dancers in drag. Silver and lilac costumes in the Ascot scene are sumptuous and cooly elegant. All the songs and the singing are wonderful—both Eliza’s and the professor’s.

What might surprise you is how this production ends, but I won’t tell, except that it’s the right ending for today. Our performance featured a number of understudies including Tony Roach as Higgins and Joe Hart as Alfred Doolittle, and they were so good, I probably wouldn’t have known they weren’t the usual leads. If you have the chance, see it!

Note:  Header photo is of Delacroix’s A Moroccan Couple on Their Terrace, 1832.  Photos by JWFarrington.