Category: Art

Manhattan: Looking, Dining & Reading

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WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART

The Whitney Biennial is held every two years and brings together the works of contemporary painters, sculptors, video artists and the like.  This year there are 70 artists represented and the works can be abstract, challenging, and occasionally accessible.  I find the experience of viewing this exhibit interesting and yet somewhat off-putting.  But I feel it’s a good exercise to be exposed to art I don’t necessarily like or understand.   Here are several works from the Biennial. Luger’s inverted tipi echoes his Native American heritage while stating that the world is upside down.

from Future Ancestral Technologies by C. H. Luger

Philadelphia artist Karyn Olivier uses found objects as reference points for the past or loss. Anyone who’s spent time in Maine will recognize these lobster trappings.

How Many Ways Can You Disappear, 2021

We also spent time in a gallery of works from the Whitney’s permanent collection.  Here are two pieces that spoke to me, one visually appealing, the other disturbing and powerful. I like the vibrancy and beauty of the Gullah woman in Dry Clean.

Dry Clean, Eldzier Cortor, c.1945-46

Norman Lewis’ stark black and white oil painting is chilling with its masks, skulls, and echoes of Klansmen and would easily have fit in the Biennial exhibit.

American Totem, Norman Lewis, 1960

DINING AROUND—THAI STREET FOOD 

Up Thai (Upper East Side)

We had walked by Up Thai in the past, but never eaten here before.  I read a recommendation for it and decided to book. It’s a very popular place and while an attractive space, it’s jammed packed with tables and there is very little space for the wait staff to navigate.  Granted, we were here on a Friday night, but it was crowded with families with children as well as 30 and 40 somethings.  

Our waitress was smilingly pleasant and efficient, and we loved what we ordered!  UP spring rolls with shrimp and crabmeat with plum sauce to start. 

UP spring rolls

Then a medium spicy green curry with chicken, string beans, bamboo shoots, bell pepper, and basil leaves, along with pad krapraw, an entrée of Thai chili, onion, peppers, shitake mushrooms, more basil leaves, and pork.  Both dishes came with white rice. 

On a return visit, we sampled the curry puffs and a vermicelli dish with shrimp.  The vermicelli with ginger and other spices was especially good. In addition, we ordered pad krapraw, this time with chicken. We had more than enough to share.  It was all so good that we will be regulars here!

GUT WRENCHING & HEARTRENDING NOVEL

In Memoriam by Alice Winn

Author Winn (theguardian.com)

In her first published novel, Alice Winn depicts the mostly unspoken love between two young men, schoolboys together, and then soldiers in the front lines in France. Ellwood (Elly or Sidney) and Gaunt (Henry) are classmates at an upper-class English boarding school.  When Britain enters the World War, they and most of their classmates enthuse about joining up as soon as they are old enough.  Their view of war is one of glory and excitement on the battlefield.  Little do they envision the carnage and the gruesomeness they will experience in the trenches at Ypres, Loos, and the Somme.  

The novel alternates in time and space between Ellwood and Gaunt and their experiences together and separately (Henry becomes a German prisoner of war) and those of their closest friends and classmates.  Besides this group, Gaunt’s sister Maud is the other principal character.  She serves as a nurse during the war years, giving her some perspective on what these young men have suffered. The years covered are 1913 to 1919.

The battle scenes are extremely graphic and some of the most gut wrenching I’ve ever read.  Bodies are blasted apart and pile up.  These scenes are contrasted with and redeemed by tenderness and shared forbidden love.  Despite all the deaths that litter these pages, the reader is left with a sense of hope in the years after the war.

Inspired by war remembrances in the historical archives of her own college and enriched by extensive research, Winn has crafted a powerful, moving, and ultimately beautiful work of art.  Highly recommended! (~JWFarrington)

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is Deep Calls to Deep by Maja Ruznic at the Whitney Biennial.

Tidy Tidbits: Reading, Watching, Enjoying

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READING—FASCINATING WOMAN

Gardner Portrait by John Singer Sargent, 1888 (Gardner Museum)

The Lioness of Boston by Emily Franklin

I’ve long been a list maker: lists of to-dos, lists of TV series and films to screen, lists of places to visit.  Before we moved from Cambridge, MA, many years ago, I made a list of things the Chief Penguin and I should do before we left.  I made a similar list of activities and outings in 2006 before we moved from six months in London back to the U.S.  On my list for Boston was a visit to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  Filled with art and books, it’s a treasure trove of a collection.

Emily Franklin’s The Lioness of Boston is an intriguing portrait of Isabella Stewart Gardner.  Born in 1840, Isabella was an unconventional woman who wanted to do something significant, to be known as something other than a society wife.  Frustrated by the strictures of staid Boston’s social scene, she chafed at the retiring role she was expected to play.  Comfortably married to Jack Gardner, and then mother to a son, Belle still sought more outlets for her interests and her energy.  

She cultivated friendships with Charles Eliot Norton (first art history professor at Harvard), Henry James, Bernard Berenson, and others.  She got allowed into lectures at Harvard, began traveling abroad, and sat for John Singer Sargent for her portrait.  Her interests in rare books and art blossomed, and she became both a collector and a supporter of artists.  The museum she created is her legacy.

This is a novel, not a biography, and its narrative arc is shallow focusing primarily on Gardner’s friendships and relationships and imagining her interior life.  Leisurely paced and enjoyable!  Now I must make a return visit to Boston. (~JWFarrington)

VIEWING—FAVORITES RETURN

Chelsea Detective, Season 2 (Acorn)

Max & Layla (VitalThrills.com)

Detective Inspector Max Arnold who lives on a houseboat is back for another season, this time with a new sidekick.  DS Layla Walsh is much younger and keeps him on his toes.  Between solving a gruesome murder or two, Max remains entangled with separated wife Astrid (she’d like to get on with her life) and with his somewhat interfering, but doting Aunt Frances.  Set in the tonier section of London, it’s less gritty than other British crime series and as engaging for the human relationships as for the murders.  There are four episodes in the season.

Hidden Assets, Season 2 (Acorn TV & Roku)

Bibi Brannigan, Christian, Claire (TellyVisions.org)

This Irish crime series flips back and forth between the Criminal Assets Bureau (CAB) team in Limerick, Ireland, and the Counter Terrorist Unit (CTU) in Antwerp.  If you haven’t watched the first season, you should, as this is a continuation of an ongoing story of smuggled goods, bombs, murders, and the Belgian port. 

There is a new principal in Ireland, Claire Wallace, who replaces DS Emer Berry.  Emer had a solid working relationship with Christian De Jong, her counterpart in Antwerp. Now, Claire and Christian must forge a new partnership to be jointly successful.  The stakes are high, politicians are involved, and it’s fast paced.  I’ve now watched three of the six episodes.  Highly recommended!

HOLIDAY WEATHER

December is a month for socializing and parties.  This week we caught up with a friend over lunch at Mean Dean’s in Bradenton and celebrated a birthday dinner at another friend’s. On Saturday, we enjoyed our community holiday party—this year a brunch.  It was a lovely day.  The air was softly warm, and the sun was shining.  

From now until May, Florida weather is perfection.  If not perfect, then at least wonderful and magical much of the time.  No need for coats or jackets, gloves or hats, let alone boots.  Sandals and short sleeves will suffice.  Living here this season is a treat!

Note: Header photo is of the courtyard at the Gardner Museum, courtesy of the museum.

Italy: Medicis in Florence

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MICHELANGELO’S DAVID

First off, a detour from the Medicis to Michelangelo. The Chief Penguin got us tickets to the Accademia for Saturday to see David. Saturday morning was lovely, but it poured in the afternoon, which resulted in a long soggy walk there.  Our tickets were for 4:45 pm, but at 4:30, we weren’t sure we wanted more time standing in the rain, so we departed.   On Sunday, thanks to our guide Sasha, the CP got more tickets and then actually got in. He reminded me that the real David is very impressive in this well-lighted setting!

Michelangelo’s David (GCF)

MEDICI FAMILY

Yesterday morning was devoted to the Medici family and its generations of dukes and grand dukes, a powerful merchant family with strong ties to the church.  Two members of this family became popes, Leo X and Clement VII. 

Most people think of the Medici men like Cosimo and Lorenzo Medici, but in the 17th century, one woman ensured that the Medici art collection, with only a few exceptions, would remain in Florence forever. That woman was Anna Maria Luisa de Medici. She was the last lineal descendant of the main branch of Medicis. She had no children and was a patron of the arts. She’s represented in an impressive seated sculpture with a book on her lap in the lower level of the Medici Chapel.

Anna Maria Luisa de Medici

Our guide Sasha, a native of Denmark, but a resident of Italy for more than 30 years, was excellent with a lively manner and a sense of humor.  We put a lot of miles on our feet over several hours to visit the Medici Chapels, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and the San Marco Church. 

MEDICI CHAPELS

The Medici Chapels were our first stop, and there are two of them dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.  They are extensions to the Medici family’s official church, the Church of San Lorenzo.  Many might say that the décor of the huge church-like Chapel of the Princes is over the top.  Its colors are dark and somewhat somber, but the marble and and inlaid precious stone work is elaborate and very detailed. 

Altar in the Medici Chapel

 This chapel celebrates the grand dukes of the Medici family each with its own sarcophagus.  The men are actually buried elsewhere. Only two of the sarcophaguses have statues in the alcove above, that of Ferdinand who killed his younger brother and wife, and his son’s alcove.  The other alcoves remain empty and incomplete.

Statue of Ferdinand above his sarcophagus

This chapel was created in the 1600’s, but the intricate mosaic floor work wasn’t begun until 1874 and only completed in the 1960’s. The yellow marble is particularly striking. 

Rich colors of marble floor, Chapel of the Princes

The second chapel or mausoleum, called the New Sacristy, was designed by Michelangelo as a cube with a dome at the top. He oversaw its construction from 1520 to 1534. It is a complete contrast to the Chapel of Princes, in only black and white with sculptures of white marble.

Interior, New Sacristy

On opposite walls are two groups of marble statues.  In one, the Duke of Nemours , brother of Pope Leo X, is shown above his sarcophagus in military garb, while below are two reclining nudes, one a male representing day or awakening, and the other a female representing night.  These are powerful sculptures and dominate the space.

Figure of Night

On side wall is a Madonna grouping; Michelangelo sculpted the Virgin and child, but not the other two figures.

Michelangelo’s mother & infant

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI

From here, we walked on to Palazzo Medici Riccardi.  This 15th century palace was the home of the Medicis and later bought by the Riccardi family, hence the name. 

Palazzo exterior with Medici coat of arms

It was designed by Michelozzo di Bartholomeo.  We stopped here to see the Magi Chapel with frescos by Benozzo Gozzoli and art by Flippo Lippi.  The colors on the frescos are vibrant even today.

Detail, Procession of the Magi (Gozzzoli)
Man in blue hat is Gozzoli
Adoration in the Forest (Lippi)

SAN MARCO CHURCH

Our last stop was San Marco Church. Originally founded in 1267 as a Benedictine monastery, it became home to Dominican monks of Fiesole some 150 years later due to Cosimo of Vecchio’s intervention.  Here we came to see the fresco, The Last Supper, by Domenico Ghirlandaio, painted in the late 15th century. Jesus is in the center with all but one apostle seated along his side; Judas is on the other side of the table facing Jesus. Despite what is to come, the scene is serene. (The photo below shows most, but not all of the fresco.)

We enjoyed our art-filled morning and came away with a greater appreciation for the Medicis’ power and influence and for the rich paintings and frescos they inspired.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is the garden at Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Italy: Arezzo to Pienza

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Arezzo at night

Yesterday was our last full day in Arezzo.  We’ve enjoyed being here and have had some of the best meals of the trip so far.  That’s partly the result of seeking out trattorias rather than cafes or pizzerias.  In Cortona, we had lunch in town, but took advantage of the tasty appetizers followed by cookies and vin santo offered at our hotel each evening.  They were a satisfactory substitute for dinner (one night augmented by a plate of meats and cheese) and spared us the steep walk up the hill and back in the dark.

FRESCOES IN ARREZO

Crucifix, chapel behind

In the morning, our enthusiastic guide Debora, native of Arezzo and a big booster of her city, took us to see Piero della Francesca’s marvelous frescoes in the Basilica of Saint Francis.  Created in the mid 15th century, the frescoes are in a small chapel named for the Bacci family tucked behind the sanctuary’s massive 13th century crucifix. They tell the Legend of the True Cross and are “read” beginning at the apex of the ceiling.

Frescoes on ceiling

The side walls relate to each other with some symmetry; there is a battle scene depicted on each side at the lowest level.

Battle scene close-up

The annuciation on the left rear wall is matched by Constantine’s dream scene on the right rear wall.

Annunciation
Constantine dream scene, depicting dawn light (previously thought to be a night scene)

There are missing patches on the images, but overall they are quite complete. It’s noteworthy that frescoes in churches were often whitewashed over; only much later, did restoration work reveal the art underneath.

For serious lovers of Renaissance art, these frescoes are worth a trip to Arezzo. Add in the duomo and the other historic architecture, and you can easily spend a day or two.

VAL D’ORCIA

Cypresses lining a driveway

Val D’Orcia, an extensive valley in southern Tuscany, is a protected park and since 2004, a World Heritage Site. There are olive trees and deciduous trees in this valley, but its hallmark are the tall pointed cypress trees. These cypresses appear on postcards and are a feature on several of the winding roads outside Pienza and elsewhere.

On our way to the Renaissance town of Pienza, birthplace of Pope Pius II, we made several stops along the road to take photos. The day was a mix of clouds and sun, making for pretty late morning light.

Greens and browns of Val d’Orcia landscape

PIENZA

Pienza main square

Pope Pius II returned to Pienza and remade the city into the architectural gem it still is today. With its beautiful Renaissance center, it became a UNESCO heritage site in 1996. It is a small town with one main thoroughfare between two city gates with narrow passageways branching off in both directions.

Pienza street view
City gate, Pienza

There are good views of the valley below from the city wall.

View from wall to valley

After our ride and our rambling through town, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a Pienza trattoria. Besides olive oil, cheese is a local product, especially pecorino. There are several varieties and we sampled three, plus I had a lovely dish of gnocchi.

Gnocchi in Parmesan cream

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo taken in Pienza.