Manhattan Potpourri

NAVIGATING MANHATTAN

Manhattan is beginning to come back to life and there is something approaching normalcy.  But, it’s hard to be spontaneous.  Museums require some form of advanced ticketing or reservation, there are usually lines to enter, masks and social distancing are the norm, and you will most likely have your temperature taken.  

Unfortunately, some of our favorite restaurants are gone, there are too many empty storefronts, and reservations for dining are almost always a must.  There too, they take your temperature, often request contact info, and sometimes require that you sign a health form.  Strange times we’re living in, but at least it’s possible to see an exhibit and eat a meal at a restaurant, either outdoors or inside.  It’s been a long wait, but we are enjoying both:  viewing art and eating well!

CANVASES IN BIG SPACES

Frick Madison

During renovation and expansion of its home building, the Frick has re-located to what was the Met Breuer and is now called Frick Madison.  It was both a surprise and something of a shock to see these works, normally hung close together in very decorated furnished rooms, spread out on vast walls.  Some works stood out in a new way which I appreciated.  I especially enjoyed seeing the four Fragonard pieces on the progress of love in this venue.  Another standout was the portrait of Sir Thomas More by Hans Holbein the Younger. And I loved the tiered displays of ceramics—jugs, vases, teapots—arranged by color, one of blue and white pieces, the other works in shades of magenta.

There is a printed guide to the collection, but it isn’t that easy to follow, so I recommend downloading the Bloomberg Connects app before you visit.  It includes guides to this museum and others in NY and the U.K. There is a QR code at the museum to do this, but that didn’t work for us.  

Although the museum shop is closed, the café is open.  With our friends, we enjoyed coffee and cookies before our entry time. Since the Frick doesn’t allow any photos, you must visit to see the art!

BLACK LIFE IN BLACK AND WHITE

Whitney Museum of American Art

The Chief Penguin was particularly interested in the special photography exhibit at the Whitney.  We got tickets for opening time; the entry line was short and moved quickly.  

A Couple in Prospect Park, Brooklyn, NY, 1990

Dawoud Bey is a contemporary photographer.  This exhibit was entitled, “American Project.”  Using a variety of different techniques and camera sizes, Bey focused on Black life in several cities, Syracuse, NY among them.  He also made a series of portraits of teens from different schools paired with written statements from each.  Many of the photos are black and white.  

Cupboard VIII, 2018 by Simone Leigh

We also spent some time looking at paintings and sculpture from the permanent collection.  Some we’d seen before; others were new to us. I particularly liked the larger than life Black woman with a raffia skirt.

OUTSTANDING TV SERIES

Philly D. A. (PBS Independent Lens)

This eight-part series focuses on newly elected District Attorney Larry Krasner’s first term in office.  It is excellent!   Krasner campaigned on structural change and reducing the high figures for mass incarceration in the city of Philadelphia.  Statistics showed that Philadelphia had a very high prison population, many Black or Brown, and sent youthful offenders to reform institutions at a much higher rate than almost anywhere else.  Krasner’s goal is to undo 30 years of practices that don’t work and bring about cultural change.  It’s an incredibly difficult and complex challenge; watching him struggle to be successful on several fronts is fascinating.  

You get to know some key staff, meet several police district captains, follow a long-term prisoner petitioning for early release, and learn about the entrenched and powerful Philadelphia Fraternal Order of Police.  It’s a study in how municipal government does and doesn’t work for the community and how so often perception prevails over reality.  

I worked in Philadelphia for almost twenty years so the attitudes and some players were familiar.  But even for those elsewhere, the issues will resonate and are at the forefront of Black Lives Matter.  As a footnote, Larry Krasner is being opposed in the Philadelphia Democratic Primary election next week; we will be following his fate. Highly recommended series!

PERFECT LUNCH!

Meme Mediterranean

In the past, we had frequent dinners at this small restaurant on Hudson Street in the West Village.  It’s only a short walk from the Whitney.  On this day, we had a delicious lunch at a corner table inside, with the door to the outdoors wide open.  We shared our favorite fried artichoke, sampled the meatballs with yogurt and mint, and loved the chopped salad with chickpeas, tomato, cucumber, and grilled chicken.  To top it off, abandoning noontime restraint, we each had a glass of a refreshing Albarino.  

Note: Header photo by Dawoud Bey is entitled A Man at Fulton Street and Cambridge Place, Brooklyn, NY, 1988. Photos taken by JWFarrington.

Manhattan: Art, Food & More

STUNNING ART EXHIBIT—People Come First

I feel as if I should have heard about the American artist Alice Neel long before this.  She lived from 1900 to 1984 and was active on the political scene in Manhattan.  The Metropolitan Museum of Art has a retrospective of her work on display until August 1, and it’s stunning.  Her paintings are largely people, one or two women or men and some of her children and grandchildren.  

Sam

She was one of the first women to paint male as well as female nudes, and they are not prettified at all, but real and frank in their sexuality.  The exhibit indicates that perhaps she didn’t become as well known in her prime since the art world had turned more toward abstraction and away from representational works.  In addition to the paintings of humans, she did some still lifes, which I also liked. 

Elizabeth in a Red Hat (1984)
Light (1980) painted in Spring Lake, New Jersey

NEW NOVEL—Missing Girls

When the Stars Go Dark by Paula McLain

Paula McLain is known for her historical novels, particularly the one about Hemingway’s first wife, Hadley.  This novel is a departure as it’s something of a suspense novel about a homicide detective who specializes in locating missing children.  Anna Hart has suffered recent tragedy in her personal life and is hiding away from her family in Mendocino where she grew up.  There she becomes obsessed with a missing teenage girl.  This disappearance is reminiscent of an unsolved case from her childhood and consumes her.  Anna offers her assistance to the local police detective.  They do not know if they will find a body or a girl still alive.  McLain details the acute tension of the search along with Anna’s internal struggles and her identification with certain aspects of the missing girl’s life.  

The arc of the narrative is shallow which means there is much debate and discussion, but not lots of action.  It feels like a very personal story, and to a great extent it is.  McLain herself spent much of her childhood in foster care and is a sexual abuse survivor.  I found the novel engaging, but not gripping, but appreciated why, especially after the author’s endnotes she was compelled to write it.

DINING DELIGHTS

Petite Boucherie

For lunch in the West Village, Petite Boucherie perfectly fit the bill.  Mourning the demise of A.O.C., we tried this little bistro and were delighted.  Excellent merguez sausages, delicious salmon over white beans, a pot of mussels, and delicate greens with warm chevre toast satisfied four discriminating diners.  

Eat Here Now remains the Chief Penguin’s favorite diner on the Upper East Side, and they didn’t disappoint.  He always orders a grilled bacon and cheese sandwich with a side of cole slaw.  I had tuna salad in a pita which was also good.  For a more upscale lunch, but still casual, Three Guys on Madison near Frick Madison is another good bet.  The food is even better, but the vibe is shinier and less atmospheric.

Via Quadronno is well located for a simple lunch before or after visiting Frick Madison.  They don’t take reservations, so we went early and were able to snag a corner table for four inside in the window.  While their specialty is panini and other types of Italian sandwiches, they also serve pasta and salads.  We enjoyed the lasagna Bolognese, the lasagna of the day (spinach), a lovely mixed greens salad with tuna, and asparagus with vinaigrette.  Service was relaxed and unhurried.  We were surprised when we left at the length of the line waiting to be seated.  More outside seating than inside and they don’t take reservations.  

For tasty Lebanese fare, we had dinner at Naya on Second AvenueThe wait staff were all very welcoming, took our temperatures, and asked for contact info. We had grilled halloumi followed by the kafta kebab (nicely spiced ground lamb) served alongside grilled onions and sweet pepper and a mound of rice with vermicelli strands.  We also shared the chicken shish taouk, cubes of grilled chicken with the same veggies and rice.  And we tried their baklava.  Worth a return visit!

With a hankering for some good Indian food, we ventured to Chola on E. 58 St for dinner.  Years ago, we enjoyed their sumptuous lunch buffet.  No buffet this year.   The tables were very widely spaced, and our temperatures checked upon entry.  The menu was so tempting we over ordered to try more dishes and had some to take home.  The chili shrimp in red sauce were very hot and the Chief Penguin was delighted.  Pickled tandoor chicken was appropriately piquant and sharp, while the samosas were a tad disappointing.  I found the ratio of dough to filling to be out of balance.  For an entrée, we sampled the lamb rogan josh with some buttered naan.  A very satisfying meal!

Note: All photos by JWFarrington.

Experiencing Savannah: Squares & Art

We met friends in Savannah and enjoyed four days of exploring this very walkable city.  It is one of the most pedestrian-friendly small cities I’ve ever visited.  Our hotel in the historic district was centrally located between the river to the north and Forsyth Park to the south.  Neither was more than a 15 to 20-minute walk and we walked everywhere, despite some rainy and then cold weather! There are several trolley firms offering hop on, hop off tours which we considered doing but never did.

Fountain in Forsyth Park

SAVANNAH SQUARES

Founded in 1733 by James Oglethorpe who founded the colony of Georgia, Savannah teems with history and is made beautiful by its many historic squares.  Today there are 22 squares created in the 18th and 19th centuries, and each is an oasis of calm with live oaks dripping with Spanish moss, benches on which to contemplate the world, and usually a monument or a statue of a famous person from Oglethorpe himself in Chippewa Square to John Wesley near the mother church of Methodism.  

James Oglethorpe

In addition, camellia bushes and azaleas, an early blooming flush of pink, provide color.  Dotted around the squares are a number of historic churches, more elegant architecture, including the Independent Presbyterian Church with a layered green spire atop its steeple.

Independent Presbyterian Church

  Savannah’s city hall has a prominent golden dome, a beacon in the sky as one approaches the river.

RIVER WALK

Savannah’s riverfront is crammed with seafood restaurants and small shops and the once important centers of commerce, the Savannah Cotton Exchange and Factors Row.  We found this section somewhat touristy, but enjoyed our saunter along the river promenade where you can catch a ferry across to the convention center or just stop to peruse the panels about Savannah’s maritime history.  

We watched a colorful container ship come into port and then walked almost to the end of the promenade to see The Waving Girl.  Florence Martus waved her handkerchief to each arriving and departing ship for many decades.  

ART MUSEUMS

For us, no visit to a city is complete without checking out a local museum.  Here we visited two art museums.  The Jepson Center is a stunning piece of architecture, very contemporary and not at all like any of the surrounding buildings.  It’s located on Telfair Square and is one of the three Telfair Museums.  

Katniss by Katherine Sandoz

The building has lots of glass and the lobby and skylights make for interesting patterns on the lobby floor and walls.  The hanging installation by artist Katherine Sandoz adds color and whimsy.  Two exhibits, “Machines of Futility:  Unproductive Technologies” and a highly interactive one on nature and art, highlighted communication and climate change.  

The Chief Penguin and I were surprised and then delighted when we put on 3-D goggles and watched “Immerse” to see the very familiar coral reef tank at the California Academy of Sciences.  This was our work venue for seven years and immediately we were transported back in time—and space!  We then learned that Steven High, director of our local Ringling Museum of Art, served there as director for several years.  Small, small world!

We also visited the Telfair Museum of Art, the oldest art museum in the South, which was built in 1818-1819 as the mansion home for members of the Telfair family.  On the docent tour, we learned about the architecture and that this family had several plantations and owned more than 600 slaves.  The surviving member of the family, Mary Telfair, willed the house to the Georgia Historical Society expressly to become a museum. 

The Bird Girl

 It opened in 1886 as the Telfair Academy of Arts and Sciences and for some years was a teaching institution as well as an exhibitor.  The art collection is small, but there were some interesting pieces including the sculpture, The Bird Girl, related to the novel Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and a special exhibit called “Savannah Faces” by more contemporary artists.

Savannah also has a museum devoted to Prohibition and several house museums including the home of Juliette Gordon Low, the founder of the Girl Scouts. All diversions for another trip.

For details on where we ate on this foray, see my next blog.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Tidy Tidbits: Culture, Culture

A WEEK OF CULTURE

General John Kelly, former chief of staff for the current president, made national as well as local news for his comments about John Bolton.  Kelly was the featured speaker at Ringling College’s Town Hall series on Monday, and when asked about Mr. Bolton said, he is an “honest man” and a man of integrity.  

At Global Affairs on Wednesday morning, former advertising executive Peter Georgescu, a Romanian who emigrated to this country as a child, gave a thoughtful talk about the tension between business and society.  He contrasted Boeing’s misguided handling of the Max crisis with Johnson & Johnson’s more humane approach to the Tylenol tampering in the 1980’s.  

At Thursday’s Sarasota Orchestra concert, we heard several unfamiliar pieces in a concert that, to me, seemed somewhat flat.  After intermission, Sarah Chang redeemed it with an exhilarating rendition of Dvorak’s Violin Concerto in A Minor.  

Bachi de setola by Pino Pascali (1968)

Lastly, we made our inaugural visit to the new Sarasota Art Museum with my visiting sister and brother-in-law.  We were all delighted with both the gallery spaces and the art on display.  An eclectic exhibit of works by various artists under the title, Color Theory, on one floor and a career-spanning exhibit of Brazilian-American artist Vik Muniz’s collages and photographic works.  

One of the most stunning pieces is an installation of plexiglass plates with colored film on them that reflect light in intriguing ways. It’s by Christian Sampson, a Ringling College of Art & Design graduate.

Vita in Motu (Christian Sampson)

Muniz used many media from plastic toy soldiers to peanut butter and jelly to sugar to junk.  I found his horse head (plastic soldiers) and his collage of Jerusalem especially appealing. If you’re local, this new art destination is a must visit!

Jerusalem from Postcards from Nowhere, 2014 (Muniz)

RECENT READING

Family Dynamics

Ask Again, Yes by Mary Beth Keane

What happens when you witness a traumatic event as a young teen?  How does that impact your adult life in ways you never expected?  Keane’s novel explores the friendship between two cops and their families who are neighbors for a short period of time.  That relationship is ripped open by a horrible tragedy, and yet, the teenage boy and the neighbor girl who was his closest friend marry each other.  The consequences of the earlier tragedy echo and haunt them all, parents and adult children, through the next twenty years.  Can one forgive an injury caused by someone who is mentally ill?  

Keane’s novel is a delicate and nuanced exploration of hate, love, remorse, and confusion as Peter, the teenage son of the perpetrator, and Kate, his neighbor and later wife, suffer long-lasting fallout from the event.  Keane has Irish heritage and this plus her own life experiences are reflected in these characters.  A novel that will linger in your mind long after you’ve read the last page.  (~JWFarrington)

Notes: All photos by JWFarrington. Header photo is Blossom by Tony Feher (2009) at the Sarasota Art Museum.