Out & About: History in North Carolina

VISITING NORTH CAROLINA

How I spent my summer vacation.  Wrong season, how I spent Thanksgiving week.  The Chief Penguin and I were in North Carolina to visit my sisters and their families and spent time in both Greensboro and Chapel Hill with brisk walks to Greensboro’s Bog and Centennial Gardens, excursions to Winston-Salem, to the marvelous McIntyre’s Books in Fearrington Village, and to the Kidzu Children’s Museum for a morning with three lively little girls.  

REYNOLDA HOUSE MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART

Located in Winston-Salem, the former home of R. J. and Katharine Reynolds, of tobacco fame, is worth a tour.  The house was built in 1917.  R. J. died in 1918, and Katharine only lived until 1924, but she was both enterprising and ahead of her time and founded a school for the black children of the staff.   Of greater interest, perhaps than the house, is the range of special exhibits on offer throughout the year in the museum wing.  This season it is:  Leyendecker and the Golden Age of American Illustration.  J.C. Leyendecker and his brother, Frank, were both artists, but J.C. had the more notable career.

Couple on Horseback (1904)

Over his lifetime, J.C.  produced 322 covers for The Saturday Evening Post in addition to ones for Collier’s Magazine and illustrations for Arrow collars and men’s clothing.

Arrow Collar Man

  J.C. also introduced the idea of using a baby to represent the beginning of a new year and drew 40 New Year’s covers for the Post.  

Created in the early part of the 20th century, his depictions of African Americans and everyday people reflect the racial and social climate of the time.  This is a fascinating exhibit on many levels.

THE CAROLINA INN

Carolina Inn anticipating the Christmas season

Built by a University of North Carolina alumnus, opened in 1924, and later gifted to the university, this charming inn in Chapel Hill is a paean to the achievements of its faculty and alumni.  Throughout the halls are plaques and photographs testifying to the accomplishments of the many individuals who were educated here.  You feel a bit like you will turn baby blue in hue before you leave!  

There is lots of history recorded here, and it’s significant to note that while blacks worked in the hotel, the first black guest, for lunch, not overnight, was Martin Luther King, Jr. in 1963.  Such a short time ago—so much has changed for the better, but not everything.  Fast forward to the present day, and I enjoyed watching family groups arrive for Thanksgiving Dinner, all ages and multiple generations, white, Hispanic, and black. 

It is not Christmas yet, but our family group was delighted with the inn’s creative, whimsical, and fun displays of the Twelve Days of Christmas.  The days were scattered out of order around the lobby and main floor, and my older granddaughter and I made many treks around finding each number and then reading about the artist.  

Five Golden Rings

Highlights for both granddaughters were Two Turtle Doves (live ones), Four Calling Birds, a display that included four ticking cuckoo clocks, and Five Golden Rings, five desk telephones spray painted sparkling gold. 

 It provided great post-breakfast entertainment along with this year’s tree with its theme of “visions of sugar plums.”

RECENT READING

America’s First Daughter by Stephanie Dray & Laura Kamoie

This is the first of two Colonial period historical novels by this pair. I read their most recent one, My Dear Hamilton, first and enjoyed it so much that I was drawn to this one about Thomas Jefferson’s daughter, Martha, known to him and her siblings as Patsy.  Patsy’s mother died when she was only nine and she promised her mother that she would always take care of her father.  That promise to care for her father and, by extension, guard his legacy, led her to sacrifice her own happiness and to keep dark and dangerous secrets.  

The authors did extensive research for the novel and have used quotations from the archive of Jefferson’s correspondence to begin every chapter.  As the novel opens, Jefferson has died, and Patsy is going through his papers and deciding what letters may be kept and which ones destroyed in order to preserve his reputation as a great statesman. Through the years, we see Patsy mature from childhood to teen to adult as his helpmate, his confident, and as a skilled political hostess in Paris and Washington.  Later, as the wife of a Virginia plantation owner, she manages hearth and children (ten in all) at their home and some of the time at Monticello, always attended by slave labor and the ever-present Sally Hemings.  The result is a rich portrait of a woman who both chafed against the strictures of her time and simultaneously, ignored or denied unpleasant truths.  Reading this I came away with a perspective on a less noble, flawed Thomas Jefferson.

Note: All text and photos ©JWFarrington. Header photo taken at Kidzu Children’s Museum.

Rome Adventure: Vatican Tour

STUNNING ART

We initially signed up for the 7:30 A.M. small group tour of the Vatican Museums.  But, upon further reflection, it seemed too much with jet lag et al, to go that early.  So we changed the tour time to a more civilized 9:45 and then walked to the meeting point.  Seeing the art was worthwhile, but the overall experience is exhausting and strenuous. Our group totaled 22 plus our guide, Julie.  We thought the group size would be no more than 12!  Julie was superb—well informed, organized, and kept us moving!  And we had little radios and earpieces which made it possible to both hear her clearly and stay focused on the building and the paintings.

But, and it’s a big but, the Vatican allows so many thousands (and I mean thousands!) of people to be in the buildings at one time that you are always in a packed crowd and have to move very slowly up and down the many staircases and contend with tiers of folks in front of every significant work.  Doing this for three and a half hours is wearing!  As a former museum educator, I fault them for cramming in so many people.  They charge a high price and the crowding detracts from one’s enjoyment.  Our tour also included the Sistine Chapel (also packed) and the interior of St. Peter’s.  About the only spaces  that weren’t wall to wall people were several of the Raphael Rooms.

Detail in the Raphael Rooms

Mornings in Rome are lovely and we enjoyed the walk to the Vatican and also another walk this morning.  There are not as many people on the street, businesses are just gearing up for the day, the piazzas, Navona in particular, and the Pantheon are less full, and the light is lovely.   

Section of a map in the hall of maps in the Vatican Museums

Note: Text and photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Manhattan: Art at the Met Breuer

ART: FIBER, BRONZE, PAINT

On our recent trip to New York, we spent some time at the Met Breuer.  As it happened, two featured exhibits were by female artists, one a retrospective of a living artist’s career and the other a focus on the fiber art and sculpture of an Indian artist.  

I was captivated by Phenomenal Nature by Mrinalini Mukerjee.  The larger than lifesize intricately woven flax, hemp and cotton pieces range from gods of the forest to nymphs to a flower.  They are usually one muted or dark color, but a few incorporate other color strands.  Later in her life (she died in 2015), Mukerjee did a series of bronze sculptures that are rounded or based on a dome shape. 

Van Raja (King of the Forest), 1981
Aid Pushp II (Primal Flower), 1998-99

Untitled, 2002

To Fix the Image in Memory is a review of Viji Celmins’ more than 50 year career and encompasses the top two floors of the museum.  Her early works are a mix of paintings of common appliances like a space heater, a hot plate, or a lamp, as well as sculptures of familiar objects such as a pink eraser.  These are very accessible to the viewer.  

Heater, 1964

I found the later works, endless studies of the ocean’s surface, starry skies, and webs, which are shades of gray and black, much more challenging and less visually appealing.  They are stripped down and there are only subtle differences between some of the works in a series.  But this exhibit has garnered a lot of publicity and praise including the lead article in a recent New York Times’ Art section.

Untitled (Web #1), 1999

Note: Header photo is one of several horse sculptures in Freedman Plaza at the entrance to Central Park. Text and photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Maine Time: Jaunting Around

JAUNTING TO WATERVILLE

We know a few folks who’ve worked at or graduated from Colby College, but had never visited the campus. It’s located about ten minutes from downtown Waterville on Mayflower Hill—a pleasant spread of green dotted with red brick buildings and athletic fields.  A guard at another museum (which will remain nameless) told us that the best art museum in Maine, “its Louvre,” is the art museum here, which prompted this visit. 

Founded in 1959 and housed in a contemporary building with two levels and five wings, the Colby College Museum of Art has a wonderful collection focusing primarily on American art from all periods with some pieces from Europe and Asia.

Whimsical seating

The entrance hall includes some fanciful shrub seating while the lobby area is airy and light-filled with splashy red chairs.   The young woman at the reception desk was most welcoming and helpful.

Photo in Theaster Gates collection

We spent time looking at some of the thousands of photographs from Ebony magazine in Theaster Gates:  Facsimile Cabinet of Women Origin Stories and then marveled at the intricately worked baskets and the colorful paintings which are part of an exhibit of arts and crafts of the First Nations People of Maine and Maritime Canada.  

Fancy Basket, 1997 by Peter Neptune

The exhibit is titled, Wiwenikan:  the beauty we carry, and includes works from the Maliseet, Micmac, Passamaquoddy, Penobscot, and Abenaki that collectively are known as the Wabanaki. 

I also particularly enjoyed some of the contemporary paintings and sculpture in the permanent collection including two works by Maya Lin, with whom we spent some time in our San Francisco years.   Lin’s works are small in scale, one made all of straight pins, and better appreciated up close in person.

Burning House, Night, Vertical, 2007 by Lois Dodd
Untitled, 2010 by Anish Kapoor
The Hostess, c. 1928 by Ellie Nadelman

This is a first-rate museum and well worth a visit. For us, it was only about an hour and half’s drive from the coast.  Admission is free to both the campus community and the general public.

To cap off our tour, on the recommendation of the museum staff, we drove downtown, easily found a place to park in a large free lot, and then had a most satisfying lunch at the Last Unicorn Restaurant.  

The Chief Penguin and I both selected one of the lunch-sized chicken entrees which came with a small green salad and basmati rice.  Salads and sandwiches were also on offer with seating inside or outdoors at umbrella tables.

Note: Text ©JWFarrington and all photos by JWFarrington. Header photo is a birch and cedar bark canoe in the Colby museum.