Today was very hot and humid and the sun was out–almost for the first time since we arrived in Vietnam! This morning we boarded one of the smaller colorful dragon boats that ply the Perfume River here in Hue. It was just us and our guide plus the pilot of the boat and a woman vendor who also assisted with docking the boat. She had an array of goods for sale—bookmarks and small prints, wooden carved items and clothing and handbags, all ostensibly hand made. Each boat seems to have a vendor on board and they can be very persistent in trying to get you to buy something. The river was a greenish brown and very calm and the riverbanks lush and green.
The boat pokes along very slowly and it was about a half hour to an historic pagoda complex set up on a hill overlooking the river. Surrounding the pagoda are a series of buildings all related to the Buddhist monks who live here. Our guide told us that about 60 monks make this monastery their home. Wandering about was pleasant as it was still only mid-morning and there was a slight breeze.
We then boarded another dragon boat and cruised along the river for another hour to reach the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc, who reigned for 35 years, the longest of any of the Nguyen family, from 1848–1883. Upon docking, we scrambled up the grassy bank and then walked a few hundred yards past souvenir and concession stands to the entrance to his palatial and expansive grounds.
It is a place of great serenity, beautifully landscaped and very quiet. And there were no tour groups in evidence during our visit. The complex has a series of pavilions and halls lined up one after another and leading up to the actual tomb itself. I loved all the red decor especially the many many red doors!
Compared to the lavish red and gold temple-like buildings, the mausoleum building is gray stone with a round stone wall encircling it and rather forbidding looking. This building is no longer open to the public and one source states that the emperor was not really buried here, but in a secret location. He had a hundred wives and concubines and they lived both during his lifetime and after his death in some of the other buildings here. Despite the heat, definitely worth the visit!
