Yesterday and today we have done all our sightseeing in Tokyo on foot. That is, we walked everywhere and yesterday logged nine and a half miles or 23,000 steps! Easily our best day this entire trip. Today we did well at 17,000 steps or just under seven miles. The weather has been lovely so we have focused our attention primarily on the parks. Yesterday and today we spent time in Hibiya Park admiring the poppies and the fountain and then wandering over to the very large Japan Local Food Festival. Yesterday we shared one beef satay and one hot rice cake from one of the vendors. Today we just looked.
From Hibiya Park we then meandered on the grounds of the Japan Imperial Palace and then on to one of the many fashionable shopping districts. We were looking for some tea and a bite to eat and thought Takashimaya, Japan’s old and distinguished department store, would meet our needs.
Mostly, we just rode the elevator, a cultural experience in and of itself! The elevators are run by young women in fussy uniforms, wearing hats and white gloves. They greet you and then extend one arm, ballet-like in front of the now closed door. There is a recitation about each floor (I’m assuming it was what is on that floor) and then at each floor, the operator locks the door in the open position, steps fully out of the elevator and announces to everyone and anyone in sight that she is going up (or down) and invites them in. Then the door is closed and the whole ballet begins again, almost robot-like. We took the escalator down to B2 from the main floor and all the little restaurants were full with people waiting outside them. We found the elevator lobby, waiting somewhat patiently, and then rode the elevator to the 8th floor with every floor in between included. The 8th floor had no acceptable options for food so we took the cultural long view and rode the elevator back down to the main floor with the same young woman!
Today was cloudy and a bit cooler. We returned to Hibaya Park and from there walked to the Zojoji Buddhist Temple. The most striking thing here was the stone statues of little children, all in knit caps with brightly colored pinwheels next to them. This is the Unborn Children Garden and represents children in Japan who miscarried, were aborted or were stillborn. Parents decorate the statues and often add little gifts as well.
At lunchtime, we poked around the Ginza and found many small cafes and restaurants, most though were already full or had only a counter or standing space. Just before we bailed out at McDonald’s, we lucked out with one of the last booths at the Coco Ichibanya Curry House. My stewed chicken curry with spinach over rice was very tasty, and it was the cheapest meal we’ve had in Tokyo! Even with a beer each. After lunch we continued on to yet another park, Hama-rikyu Gardens, for more cherry blossoms and a pretty pond.
A note about food. After four weeks of Asian cuisine, we’ve reverted to type somewhat and have been ordering more familiar dishes. Everything from linguine with Sicilian tuna and bottarga to two nights of very good French cuisine at a brasserie a short walk from our hotel. Tonight, though, we plan to have tempura.
