Author: JWF

Italy: Artisans in Florence

JWF 2 Comments
Narrow Florentine street

On Monday, we had a fascinating tour of several of the remaining artisan workshops on the Oltrano, or other side of the Arno River.  Here are fewer tourists, quiet streets, the Pitti Palace, and the Boboli Gardens.  At one time, there were more than 6,000 artisans working in Florence.  Today, the number is a small fraction of that as the next generations take up film or other pursuits.  

Our excellent guide, Kate, was originally from London. In a familiar story, she came to Florence about 30 years ago to study art history and never left! Besides being a guide, she has an antique business and regularly spends time in Arezzo at the monthly antiques fair. 

Our mission on this day was to visit the workshops of some of the artisans she knows, several of whom were her teachers.  The Chief Penguin and I, to be honest, had had some reservations about this tour, wondering if it was just a shopping expedition in disguise to induce us to spend money. Not so.  While one could certainly follow up later with these artisans, there was no pressure.

BOOKBINDING & MARBLE PAPER

Leather book with fresh initials

Our first stop, and my favorite, was to Riccardo Luci’s workshop for marbled paper and bookbinding.  I have a distinctive memory of visiting a small paper shop in Florence decades ago and buying some lovely little marble paper notebooks.  Here, we got to see the whole process—adding drops of several colors to a slightly thick solution made from algae, creating patterns with various combs, and then laying a sheet of paper on top to transfer the colorful pattern. 

Creating the marble design

 Once lifted off, the sheet will take several hours to dry. Such fun to watch the swirls and feathers come alive on the paper!

Luci sells sheets of paper, and objects from pens to notebooks of several sizes all covered in unique marble designs.  His workshop also creates leather wallets that can be personalized with initials or leather covered books with quotes on the front. In each case, he has letters that get heated and then pressed against a piece of gold leaf on the piece.

RESTORATION & WOODWORKING

Next we visited a woman who restores broken decorative pieces—such as a wooden figure missing an arm and part of its torso or filling in the broken parts of a picture frame.  The work is delicate and requires a number of steps beginning with putting on gesso (white paint mixture) progressing to sanding, adding paint or varnish of the correct color, and perhaps lastly, using a tool to “age” the surface by roughing it up.  She was one of Kate’s teachers, but alas, I didn’t get her photo.

Woodcarver Luigi with one of his works

Eighty-seven year old Luigi Mecocci is a master wood carver and furniture restorer. He restores old wooden pieces and hand carves what might be needed on an existing sculpture or to make table whole again. Like most of these workshops, his space is small and crammed with projects in various stages of completion. 

Interior of workshop with tools

The tools of his trade, and there are many, are arrayed on a back wall.  Next year he will give up this shop but continue to do some work out of his home outside the city.

MARQUETRY

Artisan Renato Olivastri

Renato Olivastri, an artisan in his 60’s, has worked with wood since his teens.  He specializes in marquetry or inlaid wood pieces and is also expert at restoring furniture pieces in the Boulle style, those made with inlays of brass, tortoise, or silver.  In addition to his restoration work, he creates lovely pieces of marquetry from start to finish—beautiful table tops, game boards, and cutouts made with inlaid wood pieces.  

Elaborate Boullle style box restored
Marquetry tabletop

Our final stop, where no photos were allowed, was Autentiqua. Trained by their father, Marino Cappellini, the Cappellini siblings, a brother and sister, continue to practice ancient techniques combined with a modern sensibility.   They create art pieces that look ancient, do commissioned works such as tables or large wall pieces, and offer some contemporary photography, photos of the paints and tools of their trade, which are an interesting counterpoint to the ancient-looking pieces.

LUNCH

For lunch, we went to Borgo Antico in lively, but not crowded, Piazzo di Santo Spirito. We enjoyed ravioli with butter and sage (Chief Penguin) and spaghetti a la vongole (me), preceded by a simple plate of sliced tomatoes, anchovies, and black olives. Just perfect with a glass of white wine!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Italy: Medicis in Florence

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MICHELANGELO’S DAVID

First off, a detour from the Medicis to Michelangelo. The Chief Penguin got us tickets to the Accademia for Saturday to see David. Saturday morning was lovely, but it poured in the afternoon, which resulted in a long soggy walk there.  Our tickets were for 4:45 pm, but at 4:30, we weren’t sure we wanted more time standing in the rain, so we departed.   On Sunday, thanks to our guide Sasha, the CP got more tickets and then actually got in. He reminded me that the real David is very impressive in this well-lighted setting!

Michelangelo’s David (GCF)

MEDICI FAMILY

Yesterday morning was devoted to the Medici family and its generations of dukes and grand dukes, a powerful merchant family with strong ties to the church.  Two members of this family became popes, Leo X and Clement VII. 

Most people think of the Medici men like Cosimo and Lorenzo Medici, but in the 17th century, one woman ensured that the Medici art collection, with only a few exceptions, would remain in Florence forever. That woman was Anna Maria Luisa de Medici. She was the last lineal descendant of the main branch of Medicis. She had no children and was a patron of the arts. She’s represented in an impressive seated sculpture with a book on her lap in the lower level of the Medici Chapel.

Anna Maria Luisa de Medici

Our guide Sasha, a native of Denmark, but a resident of Italy for more than 30 years, was excellent with a lively manner and a sense of humor.  We put a lot of miles on our feet over several hours to visit the Medici Chapels, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, and the San Marco Church. 

MEDICI CHAPELS

The Medici Chapels were our first stop, and there are two of them dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.  They are extensions to the Medici family’s official church, the Church of San Lorenzo.  Many might say that the décor of the huge church-like Chapel of the Princes is over the top.  Its colors are dark and somewhat somber, but the marble and and inlaid precious stone work is elaborate and very detailed. 

Altar in the Medici Chapel

 This chapel celebrates the grand dukes of the Medici family each with its own sarcophagus.  The men are actually buried elsewhere. Only two of the sarcophaguses have statues in the alcove above, that of Ferdinand who killed his younger brother and wife, and his son’s alcove.  The other alcoves remain empty and incomplete.

Statue of Ferdinand above his sarcophagus

This chapel was created in the 1600’s, but the intricate mosaic floor work wasn’t begun until 1874 and only completed in the 1960’s. The yellow marble is particularly striking. 

Rich colors of marble floor, Chapel of the Princes

The second chapel or mausoleum, called the New Sacristy, was designed by Michelangelo as a cube with a dome at the top. He oversaw its construction from 1520 to 1534. It is a complete contrast to the Chapel of Princes, in only black and white with sculptures of white marble.

Interior, New Sacristy

On opposite walls are two groups of marble statues.  In one, the Duke of Nemours , brother of Pope Leo X, is shown above his sarcophagus in military garb, while below are two reclining nudes, one a male representing day or awakening, and the other a female representing night.  These are powerful sculptures and dominate the space.

Figure of Night

On side wall is a Madonna grouping; Michelangelo sculpted the Virgin and child, but not the other two figures.

Michelangelo’s mother & infant

PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI

From here, we walked on to Palazzo Medici Riccardi.  This 15th century palace was the home of the Medicis and later bought by the Riccardi family, hence the name. 

Palazzo exterior with Medici coat of arms

It was designed by Michelozzo di Bartholomeo.  We stopped here to see the Magi Chapel with frescos by Benozzo Gozzoli and art by Flippo Lippi.  The colors on the frescos are vibrant even today.

Detail, Procession of the Magi (Gozzzoli)
Man in blue hat is Gozzoli
Adoration in the Forest (Lippi)

SAN MARCO CHURCH

Our last stop was San Marco Church. Originally founded in 1267 as a Benedictine monastery, it became home to Dominican monks of Fiesole some 150 years later due to Cosimo of Vecchio’s intervention.  Here we came to see the fresco, The Last Supper, by Domenico Ghirlandaio, painted in the late 15th century. Jesus is in the center with all but one apostle seated along his side; Judas is on the other side of the table facing Jesus. Despite what is to come, the scene is serene. (The photo below shows most, but not all of the fresco.)

We enjoyed our art-filled morning and came away with a greater appreciation for the Medicis’ power and influence and for the rich paintings and frescos they inspired.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is the garden at Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Italy: Fabulous Florence

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MAIN SQUARE & DUOMO

David replica in main square

We’re re-discovering Florence and loving it!  Our first and only previous visit here was almost 50 years ago.  We wonder why we’ve not come back sooner.  Elegant and lively, not as overwhelming as Rome, and with its bridges, architecture, and marvelous art, it’s a gem.  Plus there’s a plethora of great small restaurants.

Fountain on edge of main square
Cathedral with its distinctive dome
Part of duomo facade

On Saturday, we were on our own.  We walked to the main square with the replica of Michelangelo’s David, joined the throngs outside the magnificent duomo or cathedral, and noted the nearby spurting fountain.  For me, the beauty of this duomo rivals that of Orvieto.

Detail of lovely marble on facade

I love the many shades of pink and rose and green marble and the intricate carvings. Begun in 1296, the cathedral was not completed until 1436. Given the long lines for entry, we did not go in, but rather just admired its exterior.

BAPTISTERY

We then went on to see the Florence Baptistery or Baptistery of St. John. This octagonal structure dates from 1059 and is the oldest monument in Florence. With its charcoal and white appearance and its many vertical and horizontal lines, it’s an attractive contrast to the duomo.

Florence Baptistery
Close up of baptistery facade

CITY VIEWS

Florence is magical and special almost any time and occasionally mysterious. It’s beautiful even in the rain.

Hotel terrace view after rain
Arched street in the dark
Nighttime reflections
End of a meal: cantucci & vin santo

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

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Italy: Eating Out in Tuscany

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PASTA

Pasta with truffles

If you like pasta and/or pizza, you’ll never go hungry in Italy.  We have been enjoying the pastas in particular and the fresh truffles.  The Chief Penguin is truffle-obsessed; I’m just very fond of them.  Consequently, we have both had tagliolini (the thin spaghetti-like pasta) with black truffles and a couple times with some early white truffles.  The white ones are supremely delicious, with the best ones later on in November and even into December.  

Handkerchief pasta

My favorite pasta dish thus far, aside from those with truffles, was the fazzoletti (handkerchiefs) stuffed with a bit of sausage covered with a light film of cheese.  They were thin and green and oh, so delicate and delicious! 

Raviolis in Florence

 I also loved some ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach served in Tuscan meat sauce.

BRUSCHETTA

Overloaded tomato bruschetta with pesto

When tomatoes are really ripe, there is nothing quite like a bruschetta to start your meal.  Chopped fresh tomato on good toasted bread with a bit of olive oil can be sublime.  We’ve had many renditions, but the best one so far was in Florence with an under layer of pesto.

Another day, we had a bruschetta variation we hadn’t had before, and that was a thin layer of sausage with slices of black truffle on top.  Super yum!

Sausage bruschetta

CAPRESE

By now, most Americans are familiar with the salad of sliced tomatoes and mozzarella with fresh basil called caprese and usually topped with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  We’ve had several versions of it on this trip.   We had an especially pretty plate in Cortona at Bar 500.  

Caprese in Cortona

Another caprese was the wonderful one we had in Florence with a bit of dried oregano on top.

Caprese salad, Florence

STARTERS

A surprise starter was some beautiful smoked Scottish salmon with burrata that we also sampled in Cortona.

Scottish salmon

In Florence, the Chief Penguin began with a light asparagus soufflé topped with shaved black truffle, something different.

Asparagus souffle

One lunch, the CP and I shared a starter called Pop and Cool, and yes, it was listed in English on the Italian menu.  It was prosciutto, melon, and some focacacia.  Pretty to look and refreshing to eat.

Pop and Cool

RISOTTO

I’m a big fan of risotto, but given that we haven’t really been in northern Italy, have only seen it on a few menus. A  properly made risotto is a creamy rice dish that can be as simple as when rice, good stock, and Parmesan cheese are combined in stages, or a more complex dish with the addition of vegetables, meat, or seafood.

I ordered a veggie risotto with zucchini at a local eatery in Arezzo, but it was on the dry side and not a true creamy risotto.  The first one I had this trip (in Rome) included smoked cheese, and it was very satisfying.  I tried again in Florence. Here my risotto with asparagus, shrimp, and melted provolone on top was the right consistency and tasty.

Risotto with shrimp & asparagus

OTHER DISHES

We are in Tuscany and beef dominates many menus. At home, we are not frequent beef eaters, and consequently, have not (at least not yet) indulged in steak Florentine or any other steak options.  I did enjoy a veal stew Tuscan style in Arezzo which I thought might include carrots and onions, but it was simple cubes of veal in a rich dark sauce.  

And I’ve treated myself twice now to vitello tonnato.  Traditionally, this dish of thinly sliced cold veal topped with a tuna mayonnaise is garnished with a few capers. One I had was, but the most recent version had sliced fennel on it and no capers.  The fennel was a sweet alternative to capers, and the dish was great with the addition of fresh cracked black pepper.

Fennel on vitello tonnato

The Chief Penguin opted for a calzone one night with ham and cheese, probably enough for four given its size.  

Calzone at Cavour 42

And on another night, he opted for a starter of salami and burrata with shreds of black truffle, again a very large portion, and a bit surprising in an Italian restaurant.  Perhaps Americans were their target audience.

Salami starter

PIZZA, JUST BECAUSE

Pizza is available everywhere. You could easily have a pizza twice, if not three times a day. Here’s a rustic pizza with spinach, sausage, and Gorgonzola cheese that the Chief Penguin ordered. And no, he didn’t eat all of it! Italy is carb heaven, and what good carbs they are, but one has to exercise a tiny bit of restraint. Bon Appétit!

Rustic pizza

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.).