Author: JWF

Maine to North Carolina & Books

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GOING HOME

After our wonderful week in Sweden, we enjoyed ten more days in Maine. The air was cool to chilly, there was an occasional stiff breeze, and we felt that fall had already arrived. We left behind our view of the ocean water, our favorite botanical garden, and good friends. At our last dinner, we tucked into one more lobster roll—lobster makes Maine Maine.

Back home in the Triangle Area, we had several days of constant rain, an unnamed tropical storm which flooded southeastern parts of the state, and then a return to sunshine and 80 degrees.

Carolina sunrise

READING–WAR FICTION

AMERICAN CHARM AND DONUTS FOR SOLDIERS

Good Night, Irene by Luis Alberto Urrea

Luis Alberto Urrea (nytimes.com)

One might rightfully query, do we need yet another historical novel about WWII?  There are many good offerings out there.  I too wondered, but I ended up being captivated and engrossed in Good Night, Irene.  

Inspired by his mother’s experience in the Second World War, Mexican American poet and novelist Urrea focuses on the Red Cross clubmobiles, something I’d never seen referenced before.  These vans or buses traveled around Germany and France and even to the UK where soldiers were based, serving up American warmth and charm along with coffee and donuts.   Two young women, Irene from New York. and Dorothy from a Midwest farm sign up, not having an inkling of what they will see and experience in their tour of duty. 

Irene is escaping an abusive fiancé, and Dorothy is in it for the adventure.  With their vastly different backgrounds and life experience, they are an unlikely pair.   But they become close friends and each other’s strong support amid challenging living conditions, occasional bombs, and the sounds and sights of battle.   

Urrea is a wonderful wordsmith. His descriptions of battle conditions and these women’s travels and travails are punchy, graphic, and simultaneously mesmerizing and haunting.  Named by NPR and others as one of the best books of the year (2023), it received high praise from critics and is well worth reading.  Recommended!  (~JWFarrington)

BRINGING THE LIBRARY TO CHILDREN

Miss Morgan’s Book Brigade by Janet Skeslien Charles

Janet S. Charles (simonandschuster.com)

You may have noticed that libraries and librarians feature in recent fiction and nonfiction.  Examples include The Personal Librarian about J. P. Morgan’s librarian, The Library Book (fire in the Los Angeles Public Library), That Librarian (dealing with book banning), and The Paris Library, also by this author.

Jessie Carson, nicknamed Kit, was a young New York children’s librarian, chafing under the constant correction of her work by her boss.  In 1918, she applied and was accepted for a 2-year post to France to create children’s libraries in war torn Blérancourt in northern France.  CARD (Le Comité américain pour les régions dévastees) was started by heiress Ann Morgan, daughter of J. P. Morgan. Young women, usually affluent ones, volunteered and were assigned to serve villages that had been destroyed.  They lived not far from the front midst the noise of guns and the sight of injured soldiers.

With no intact library structure and no chance of one anytime soon, Kit and her compatriots improvised.  They visited women and children camping in huts and other makeshift shelters bringing them food and provisions.  Initially, Kit created a roving story hour taking books to the children, reading to them, and coaxing traumatized adults to sample a book.

Linking Kit’s experiences to the present day is Wendy Peterson, an archives librarian and aspiring writer who becomes intrigued by a newsletter published in 1918 from Blérancourt and the CARD project.  Her determination leads her to dig deeper into the archives to ferret out the story of these women and Kit’s groundbreaking work in establishing an actual children’s library. (Note, in the France of that day, a library dedicated to children was a radical proposition.)

Charles’ work is refreshing; it unearths yet another aspect of wartime service.  It’s a novel of relationships among colleagues, lofty goals, and coming-of-age, both for Kit Carson in the early 20th century and for Wendy Peterson in 1987.  Midst the horrors of 1918, friendships are fostered, some goals realized, and strong support provided to these French communities.  Thanks to my friend Alice for this recommendation! (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo of the Maine coast and all unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Sweden to USA: Re-entry

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OVERNIGHT IN NEW YORK

Check-in area at TWA Hotel

Returning from Sweden, we did not come directly back to Maine.  Given the timing and logistics, we opted to stay overnight at New York’s JFK Airport before flying to Portland.  The old Trans World Airlines (TWA) terminal, built and opened in 1962, was and is an iconic building designed by Finnish architect Eero Saarinen.  With curves and wing-like arms, the walls soar with a sense of motion and flight.  Today, this striking futuristic building is the TWA Hotel.  

Staying here is a trip back to 1962.  If you came of age in the 1960’s as the Chief Penguin and I did, you know the words to the continuous rock ‘n roll playlist (Beatles, “Johnny Angel” by Shelley Fabares, and “Let’s Twist Again,” e.g.).  You probably recall playing Twister (there’s a Twister alcove), and maybe you went to a beauty parlor (they weren’t called hair salons) like this mockup, all in pink with helmet-like hair dryers.

Billionaire businessman and aviator, Howard Hughes acquired control of TWA in the late 1930’s and expanded its routes and operation.  He and his partner, fellow aviator Jack Frye, were the first to fly the Constellation, a beautiful new Lockheed plane, from DC to California.  When jet engines replaced propellers, the Constellation, or “Connie” as it was dubbed, was immediately obsolete.  

This building functioned as an air terminal until 2001.  As it was transformed into a hotel, the original terminal and two adjacent buildings were joined together.  Partially encircling the original building is a replacement terminal for JetBlue which opened in 2008.  The hotel opened to the public in 2019, and it and the new terminal are together known as Terminal 5.

Sunken lounge with mechanical flight display board

Staying at the TWA hotel is a unique experience.  The spaces are cavernous and grand while the swoops and curves of the walls and ceilings inspire gasps or even awe. Tubes that took passengers to their aircraft are now passageways that eventually connect to guest rooms.  Rooms are minimalist, but quiet, with rotary phones.

Passageway from lobby to rooms

The Constellation, that marvelous plane, was acquired in 2018 and after being refurbished in Maine, made the long journey by road back to the terminal.  It now sits on the hotel property and is considered by some to be one of the world’s best cocktail bars.  It’s certainly one-of-a-kind!

Disembarking “Connie”
Wine at a fancy seat!

We couldn’t resist the lure of the Connie.  Like others, we boarded just after 4:00 pm, had plastic cups of wine and a snack package of pretzels, and soaked up the atmosphere on a red banquette.  I also tried out the cushy, but worn, seats.  

Sample TWA poster

Dinner in the Paris Café, part of Jean George’s empire, was meatballs and a Caesar salad, and better than we expected.  You can also eat in a food hall, spend money on TWA memorabilia, and read the history of this terminal and that plane on the walls. We enjoyed this taste of history and absorbed all we could in our one-night stay. The Chief Penguin and I both have memories of flying out of this TWA terminal.

VACATION READING

Here are my thoughts on a novel I read while on our Sweden trip. This is a contemporary one by Frances Mayes.  

A Great Marriage by Frances Mayes

I have a soft spot for Frances Mayes.  I loved Under the Tuscan Sun and have read many of her subsequent works, both nonfiction and novels.  At Lehigh University, the Chief Penguin and I had the pleasure of hosting her at a small dinner.  More recently in 2022, we soaked up the atmosphere and the architecture in Cortona, Mayes’ Tuscan hilltop town.  

Despite all this, I think Mayes is a better writer of nonfiction than fiction.  But I did enjoy her new novel, A Great Marriage.  It’s set mostly in in the Research Triangle Area, but also in California and London.  The North Carolina towns have new names, but the setting is one I know, and one my NC friends will recognize.  

Days before her upcoming wedding, Dara breaks her engagement to Austin when he gives her some shocking news.  Dara has always admired her parents’ wonderful marriage and knows that her grandmother had a very successful long marriage to her senator husband.  The book focuses on how she and Austin separately manage their lives after their break-up with an underlying message about what one needs to create an enduring relationship.

The situation is an intriguing and complex one, but I found the characters a bit like board pieces being moved without enough explanation.  What Mayes excels at are descriptions of scenery and streets, colors and smells.  A Great Marriage is diverting and good end-of-summer reading. (~JWFarrington)

Note: All photos except one ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.). Header photo is of lobby area at TWA Hotel.

Sweden: Stockholm & More

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AFTERNOON STROLL

Boats moored on Strandvagen

On our last afternoon in Stockholm, we strolled wide Strandvagen along the waterfront. This boulevard has trees in the middle and beyond them, views of elegant houses with fanciful turrets.

On the water side, large and small boats are moored, some for sale; floating restaurants entice diners during the short summer season, while sightseeing vessels and fancy charter boats for hire beckon one to take a cruise.

Waterside restaurant
More boats with the dome of a museum in background

Along this popular sidewalk on the other side is a series of pocket parks with benches and hammocks, an ice cream hut, and a French hot dog stand (what makes a hot dog French?)

Enjoying Sunday in the park
Even hammocks for a cuddle or a snooze

Interspersed are some lovely glassed-in cafes, seats facing toward the water, of course. On this pleasant Sunday, the boulevard was a lively scene of couples, families, and lots of strollers with little kids.

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We walked to the end where the walk turns right, noting an old blue streetcar mid bikes, cars, scooters, and modern trams, and then crossed one of Stockholm’s many bridges to Djurgarden. This island is home to a sizable park and two museums, the Nordisk Museum and the Vasa Museum. The Vasa or “Wreck” Museum, which the Chief Penguin visited earlier, houses an intact 17th century warship that sank on her first voyage in 1628 and was later salvaged. We wandered a bit and then recrossed the bridge and headed back.


MARCHING FOR PALESTINE

Fervent demonstrators


Back on familiar turf, we decided to re-visit the King’s Garden Park. Not far along the way, we heard the sounds of chanting, yelling, and drumming. It was a large group of people of many ages marching in favor of Palestine. They waved flags, carried small signs, and led off with a banner, “The Struggle Continues to Free Palestine.”


LAST DINNER

Nybrogatan 38

Many restaurants are closed on Sundays, so finding a dinner venue took some online searching. Happily, we chose Nybrogatan 38, a little place a short distance from our hotel, but in the opposite direction from the water. Cozy with booths and wooden tables, it was serving families as well as couples. Between us, we ordered the salt-cured salmon with potatoes in cream sauce and a Caesar salad that had seared pieces of chicken thigh meat atop it. These items were billed as smaller dishes but were still sizable.

Salmon & potatoes with dill

I had contemplated the snails with garlic, so was sorely tempted when a dish of snails
in pretty shells arrived for the man at the next table. I shared my thoughts with him, and we had a pleasant conversation with him and his wife about how much they like this restaurant. We wished we had discovered it sooner and vowed to return if we’re back in Stockholm!

GRACIOUS SENDOFF

The friendly receptionist at Villa Dagmar went beyond when she provided us a fika at 6:30 am the next morning before we left for the airport. Strictly, fika means “coffee break” and often with something sweet. Ours was coffee for the CP and two lovely little pastries to tide us over. She then ushered us out to our waiting taxi and promptly gave me a goodbye hug! We were a bit sad to leave.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Sweden: Sculpture Park

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MILLESGARDEN MUSEUM

Sculpture terrace—MillesGarden

On the recommendation of our friends Mary and Joe, we visited the sculpture garden and house of Swedish sculptor, Carl Milles.  We took a cab from our hotel to a suburban residential area where the entrance to MilllesGarden is boldly signed on a quiet street.

Milles lived from 1875 to 1955, was in Paris for a few years early in his career, and then he and his wife Olga returned to his native Sweden on the outskirts of Stockholm.  Olga was also an artist, a painter, and Milles’ sister Ruth Milles too.

The grounds of the Milles property, built on several levels, include an expansive sculpture terrace facing the water, several pools, a couple of upper terraces, and their house. Many sculptures are mounted on tall pedestals.

Poseidon
Orfeus, (detail), 1936

Carl Milles collected antiquities and these pieces, along with plaster casts of some works, and art by both women, Olga and Ruth, are on display in the house.

Hylas cast, 1898-99
The Listening Woman, 1952

Milles favored classical and mythical figures from Europa to Orpheus in his work with the occasional fish or bison or other animal. It is an amazing collection (roughly 100 pieces) and was a treat to experience.

I liked several paintings by Olga Milles, one of a woman at the piano, and the other of some vibrant red poppies.

Lintschi Granner by the Piano, 1900

There is also a café, which we didn’t patronize, and a small shop where I purchased some note cards. There I got asked to do a visitor survey.  Using a QR code, I logged into the survey site on my phone.  Even after choosing English, it was not the easiest survey to navigate. I would have gladly provided some constructive suggestions, but was happy enough to just get through it! 

The desk staff called us a cab, and while we wondered for a bit if we’d be rescued, we were.  The taxi driver ferried us back and knew the streets well enough to turn away from a set of horses and riders slowly clopping their way down the road and backing up traffic.

OUTDOOR LUNCH

Bistro du Passage

This was Sunday, and many restaurants were closed, including almost all of them in Saluhall.  We spied outside tables at what we thought was Paula’s, but turned out to be Bistro du Passage according to the menu.  It was breezy and cool outside and I wanted to eat in, but the Chief Penguin insisted on an outdoor table. From our sidewalk seats, we watched family groups and individuals stroll by while we awaited our orders. 

Pappardelle with chèvre

This lunch was excellent.  I had pappardelle with chèvre which was lovely pasta with a goat cheese sauce and some little spears of asparagus, topped with thin slices of summer truffle, super yum!  The Chief Penguin had their chicken salad: greens, bell peppers, and sliced artichokes, all under a small chicken leg and thigh —some of the most flavorful chicken he’s had.  And I survived the gusty weather!

Note: All photos including header photo of sculpture terrace ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)