Maine Time: Pausing in Portland

PORTLAND INTERLUDE

As is our wont, our annual trip to Maine included about 36 hours in Portland.  Portland is red brick and squawking gulls (Florida seagulls don’t seem to squawk, at least I haven’t heard them).  It’s also home to a branch of the ubiquitous Sherman’s (books lowercase, gifty items uppercase), the seriously good Longfellow Books, and a plethora of good to great restaurants.  It’s a real foodie’s town.  And in our short time there, we managed to squeeze in a tasty lunch at the Garden Café, two superb dinners, and an atmospheric, but somewhat disappointing, lobster roll lunch in the Old Port.  

We like to stay at the Portland Regency Hotel in the historic Armory building.  It’s conveniently located close to the touristy Old Port yet also easily walkable to the center of town and to the Portland Art Museum.  Like all of the hotels this season, it’s pricey—summer is when Portland makes real money.

On our way to dinner one night, we stopped in at said art museum (turned out it’s free from 4:00 to 8:00 pm on Fridays) and found the exhibit of the photography of Clarence White most interesting.  Self taught, White gained attention at the beginning of the 20thcentury for his soft focus photos of women and children and was later commissioned to do illustrations for a number of books and for advertising.  He also was one of the first individuals to teach photography in a university setting, at Columbia and also elsewhere.

WHERE WE ATE

Garden Café

This is the Regency hotel’s outdoor dining spot, and when the weather is perfect, which it was on Thursday, it was just right for lunch.  The menu includes the usual coastal fare of fish and chips, chowder, and lobster rolls, but you can also order a quesadilla with chicken or one from their appetizing selection of salads.  Service is leisurely, but who wants to hurry on a beautiful day!

Hugo’s

Hugo’s is a seriously good restaurant and the dinner we enjoyed here was exquisite.  The menu is divided into three sections:  appetizers, to share, and mains.  We ordered mostly from the appetizers section with the addition of one entrée and shared everything.  The cold smoked halibut with almond milk and ramps was different and delectable, the tuna tartare luscious, and the orcchiette with lamb bacon and spinach an inspired and hearty combination.

As a main, we sampled the roasted scallops with mole, probably the best scallops I’ve ever eaten!  Seating is in booths or stools at the bar and the wait staff are all very friendly and welcoming.  For those who may be hesitant about this refined food, the staff will put them at ease.

Chaval

This Spanish style casual place in the west end is celebrating its first anniversary this week. We have dined at Piccolo, its sister Italian restaurant in the Old Port, several times and found it so wonderful, we felt we needed to try Chaval.  Chaval too is marvelous.  There is pleasant indoor seating, but we opted for the walled-in patio out back and were charmed by the bold painted flowers on the building wall.

The menu has a number of tapas dishes on the To Start section of the menu along with Stuck in the Middle and Forks and Knives.  We like small plates and so tried the fried cauliflower, patatas bravas (the Chief Penguin pronounced these the best ever!), deviled eggs with shrimp and caviar, and a special of the night, duck rillettes.  

These were several bites each and thus, we then went on to lettuce and nuts (a salad with walnuts and cabrales blue cheese) and a beautifully presented plate of shrimp a la plancha.  To end, we succumbed to an order of churros.   Another wonderful meal!

READING UPDATE

#8  Manhattan Beach by Jennifer Egan

This historical novel has so many different strands at work that it’s difficult to know what aspects to pinpoint.  It’s a story about a father-daughter relationship, albeit one that exist in bursts with 12-year old Anna recounting a memorable outing with her father, followed by his disappearance, and then her resignation at knowing his fate.  It’s also about the divers who worked at the Brooklyn Naval Yard during WWII and how Anna becomes the first female diver.  And there’s the shadowy background of the mob—the corrupt underworld of nightclubs and shady yet tantalizingly seductive men like Dexter Styles.  Egan brings all this together in a compelling, richly detailed, dark tale that kept this reader wondering how it would all come together and whether any of these characters, Anna, her hapless mother, or her rootless aunt Brianne, would find ease and stability.

For the record, more than fifteen publications included this work on their lists of the top books of 2017. (~JWFarrington)

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is back side of restaurant Chaval.

Tidy Tidbits: Discovering One’s Forebears

DELVING INTO ONE’S PAST

In my experience, individuals start getting seriously interested in genealogy, their family’s past, when they hit their 50’s.  Middle age has settled in, the kids are grown or on their way out the door, and curiosity about one’s forebears rises to the fore.  In my extended family, my Uncle John, my mother’s youngest brother, was the one with the bug.  He wrote letters to relevant historical societies, searched archives, and visited Texas where my grandfather was born.  He completed the detailed paper fill-in-the-blanks family tree  forms (invaluable) which were pre-Internet.  To a lesser degree, his older brother, my Uncle Bill who lived in Dallas, assisted.  And being the family’s resident librarian, I was enlisted to investigate the occasional query.  Much of this legwork took place in the 80’s and into the early 90’s.  Long before Geni and well before the rise of Google.

Today researching one’s genealogy is made easier and faster by several online tools.  Perhaps the easiest one to begin with is geni.com.  You can quite easily create your own family tree for free and then go back and add to it as you have more information.  If you want to be made aware of possible matches for people in your tree, then there are several levels of membership for which you pay an annual fee.  I used just the free service for a long time and populated the tree on both sides of my family using the paper data sheets that Uncle John created.  Adding to Geni can be addictive; usually if I go online to add one date or place of birth or death, I end up looking at other records and puzzling about possible missing relatives.  In general, all deceased individuals are viewable by anyone who has set up a Geni account.

I have also found that just Googling a relative’s name and place of residence or year of death can result in a full obituary or a cemetery record with a photo of the gravestone.  Recently, I turned up the 1966 obituary for my great Uncle Ernst who died at the age of 90.  I well remember him, he was a bit confused in his dotage, but I had not known much about his earlier life.  Some families have also created extensive online records going back many generations so if you have a name that was prominent in history or very common, you might well find a treasure trove of data.  My mother’s maiden name is Hancock, and she and her siblings and many previous generations are all online!

My mother also kept some folders of family history, mostly her side, but also some on my father’s family.  I just received these from my sister.  Included was a journal of a train trip my great grandfather, James W. Findley (1849-1905), made across the U.S. in 1873 that my mother had already typed up.  And also a handwritten log of a trip he made by steamship from Philadelphia to Antwerp in 1878.  He was 29, and he spent about two months in Europe.  I’ve just completed the painstaking process of deciphering his account of the crossing and his penciled notes about where he stayed and what he did in Italy, France, Switzerland, and England.  Thanks to the Internet, I’ve found information about his ship and about some of his hotels, several of which exist today in one form or another.  Once I’ve completed my research, I’ll save the transcribed documents as a PDF in Dropbox and share them with my siblings and extended family.

If one becomes really serious about all this research, like my husband’s brother who has identified and documented relatives going back more than ten generations, then there are other sites and services such as ancestry.com and findagrave.com as well as suggested resources on the National Archives website.  However much you choose to do, it can be both a rewarding and a learning experience, providing perspective on those who came before you.

 

TRACKING TWENTY TITLES

In my self-imposed challenge to read twenty books before Sept. 1, I’ve just added another title to my list.

#7  The Heart is a Shifting Sea:  Love and Marriage in Mumbai by Elizabeth Flock

Emotionally impacted by her parents’ divorce and her father’s subsequent failed marriages, journalist Flock was attracted to the kind of love she saw among Indian couples she met.  She worked in Mumbai (aka Bombay) for two years beginning in 2008 and then returned in 2014 and 2015, but she remained in regular contact in those intervening years with three couples with whom she had become close.  Indian society, and Mumbai in particular, were changing rapidly during this time, more marriages were love matches and not arranged, and Western mores were making inroads.

In her book, in alternating chapters, Flock profiles these three couples’ first meeting, their courtship, and then their marriages, each with its own challenges, disappointments and joys.  Two of the couples are different classes of Hindu and the other couple are Sunni Muslims.  Religion and religious observances play a major role for each of them, but their view of love and romance is often influenced by how it’s portrayed in Bollywood films.  This is a fascinating and intimate account of life, love, and sex, that almost reads like a novel, but is nonjudgmental in its presentation.  What Katherine Boo did for the slums outside Mumbai in Behind the Beautiful Forevers, Elizabeth Flock does in even greater depth for marriage.  (~JWFarrington)

 

Notes: Header image from You Tube; It’s a Family from Wacissa UMC. and the book jacket from the author’s website.

Tidy Tidbits: On Stage, Screen & Page

ON STAGE—Always…Patsy Cline

Florida Studio Theatre’s production of Always…Patsy Cline was a wonderful immersion in Cline’s most famous hits.  This is a play, rather than a cabaret performance, although Patsy is mostly just singing.  The context and glue are provided by the connection and friendship that developed between Houston fan Louise Seger and Cline.   I expected the role of Louise to be a minor one; instead Susan Greenhill as Louise is superb—funny, mouthy, caustic, and oh, so spirited!

Jones & Greenhill from broadwayworld.com

 

Meredith Jones, as Patsy, appears in almost as many different dresses and outfits, all perfect for the early 1960’s, as there are songs, and captures the aching quality of Cline’s voice.  One of my favorite songs being “Crazy.”  The show was so popular with local audiences it frequently sold out and was then extended by a week.

 

 

ON TV—Janet King (Acorn)

Cast from dailytelegraph.com.au

If you liked Marta Dusseldorp in A Place to Call Home, chances are you’ll find her equally fascinating and complex as the star of Janet King.  Based in Sydney, Janet King is a crown prosecutor and later head of a royal commission investigating gun violence.  She is smart, controlled and controlling and stubborn.  Her home life has its own set of potential challenges with a lesbian partner and two small children.  Her office colleagues are well developed characters complete with their own issues, both political and personal.  This legal drama is full of surprises and twists, some violence, and is occasionally dark, but always compelling.  There are three seasons.

 

ON PAPER—Asymmetry

Halliday by Sophia Evans for the Observer

#6  Asymmetry by Lisa Halliday is one of the more unusual novels I’ve read recently, but also one of the most delightful.  The first section, “Folly” is about the love affair between 25-year old editor Alice and the decades older successful novelist, Ezra Blazer (modeled after the author’s real affair with Philip Roth, say the critics).  There is tenderness, humor, and discussions of literature and aging as he molds and manages her.  His phone calls always arrive, CALLER ID BLOCKED.

In the second section, “Madness,” also aptly titled, is the story of newly minted PhD Amar from Los Angeles who is trying to get to Iraq to visit his brother.  He is detained at Heathrow Airport and denied entry to the UK; while there he reviews his own life and his extended family’s checkered history and reflects on both American and international politics, all the while annoyed at this delay, but not overtly angry.  Lastly, the extended interview with Ezra Blazer fills in more of his life and loves as well as his thoughts on the role of art and literature.  All three sections take place in different years.  Blazer’s coda links back to “Folly,” but Amar’s section is more discrete.  (~JWFarrington)

 

 

Tidy Potpourri

DINING FIND

Thanks to our friend Sue, we finally tried Bridge Street Bistro in Bradenton Beach.  If you just walk by, you’ll see and probably hear a noisy set of diners on the ground floor.  But, if like us, you prefer quiet and a more elegant dining room, then head up to the 3rd floor.  Here is a windowed dining room, one side with a view toward the gulf, and an attractive bar set apart from the tables.  Linen napkins, a menu of seafood and Italian fare, and attentive, helpful service.

We shared a Caesar salad and then enjoyed very tasty veal saltimbocca and the grilled salmon topped with spinach and a lemony sauce over saffron risotto.  Both excellent dishes and generous enough that we left with some for the next day’s lunch.  No need for a reservation this time of year, but I make one anyway just to be safe.

SARASOTA MUSIC FESTIVAL

This week’s Thursday concert of performances by several of the festival faculty was another musical treat!  Current festival music director Jeffrey Kahane and former director Bob Levin teamed up on two Schubert piano pieces for four hands, while Leone Buyse on flute and Michael Adcock on piano played the marvelous Sonatine by Walter Gieseking, a work previously unknown to me.  Ms. Buyse was sitting behind me after the intermission, so I got to thank her and particularly compliment her on the lively Vivace movement.

The concert ended with Beethoven’s Piano Trio No.5 with violin and cello which brought down the house.  We’ve vowed to go to more of these concerts next year—some of the best music in Sarasota!

 

SMALL SCREEN

Loch Ness (Acorn).  This Scottish series is quite dark, but once I got past the first episode I was hooked.  Two women are the lead inspectors trying to locate what appears to be a serial killer while the brooding lake of the title is a character in itself.  There is just one season and it’s one continuous story over the six episodes.  Complex characters, small town anxieties and tensions, and lots of twists and turns in the plot.

Lives in Squares (Amazon Prime).  This three-part series from the BBC captures the messy, passionate lives of the Bloomsbury Group, with Vanessa Bell, sister of Virginia Woolf, being the focal point.   This set of talented writers and painters spent a lot of time together and several lived in each other’s pockets.  If you aren’t already familiar with some of the relationships between the sisters and their coterie, you might be puzzled.   Adding to the viewer’s potential confusion is the fact that the actors playing the principals change as they age.  Nonetheless, I enjoyed the series and would recommend it if you’re a fan of this period. Thanks to Patricia for suggesting it.

SUMMER READING—TRACKING TWENTY

#5  Pachinko by Min Jin Lee

This long novel was named one of 2017’s ten best books by the New York Times Book Review.  In it, Lee traces the lives of four generations of a Korean family who move to Japan and yet are never considered full members of the society.  The novel opens in 1910 and ends in 1989, during which time Korea is annexed by Japan, fought over in a war, split in two, and later closed to many Korean Japanese residents who wish to return.  When Sunja, a young boardinghouse owner’s daughter, becomes pregnant by Hansu, her older married Japanese lover, she is offered marriage by Isak, a sickly young minister.  He takes her to Osaka where they raise two sons.

How these sons and the succeeding generations deal with poverty, limited career options, and the need to hide their true ethnic heritage makes for a moving saga about immigration and living as an outsider.  A pachinko is a Japanese slot machine and several characters run pachinko parlors and become wealthy.  I found the novel overly long, but more absorbing in the second half.  Not sure it would have made my list of 10 best.

Note: Photos and coloring by JWFarrington.