Chile: Easter Island, First Impressions

EASTER ISLAND
We flew back to Santiago from Calama last evening and then this morning flew to Easter Island. The Santiago airport has outgrown its present space and is always crowded with long snaking lines leading to the check-in counters each of which is dedicated to a specific destination. Finding which long line to be in to get to the right place is a challenge. There are staff around at various points, but signage is limited to non-existent. We were advised to get to the airport at least three hours before our 9:30 am flight so we arrived at 6:20 am. Getting there was easy as we stayed across the street at the airport Holiday Inn, an oasis of American comfort and plumbing, and could walk back to the outside elevator to departures pushing our luggage trolley.

Easter Island or Rapa Nui limits the number of visitors and, consequently, you have to not only have a valid passport, but after you get checked in, there is a three-part form to fill out which asks for your hotel or accommodation name and address. We were also told that you might have to show a copy of your hotel reservation (we didn’t). Having filled out the form, you then find the police booths and get in line to present your completed form. Only after that do you go through security! The whole process for us took about an hour and a quarter and we were glad we hadn’t waited to go over later! We had time for a bit of breakfast before boarding!

The island belongs to Chile (they claimed it in 1888) and is the most isolated inhabited island in the world. It’s almost 3,000 miles out in the Pacific from Chile. The flying time is just over 5 hours and it’s two hours earlier than on the mainland. We were on one of the new Dreamliner airplanes which seemed to dwarf the small terminal when we landed. So small that they wheel stairs (which felt a bit rickety going down) out to the plane and then you walk a short distance on the tarmac. Temperature was around 70 with a very strong breeze, but it felt tropical, was slightly humid (most welcome after the dryness of the desert), and there was a sweet smell to the air. Despite the wind, many deplaning passengers had their iPhones out to snap photos of the plane itself and the entrance to the terminal and some really gorgeous hibiscus blooms.  Even the Chief Penguin participated!

Our hotel, Hare Noi, just a short distance from the airport, is a lodge-like series of buildings built of stone and wood and connected by boardwalks. Examples of Rapa Nui art and craftsmanship decorate the walls and hallways. And throughout the property, there are large blocks of native stone including one in our room. I think it has reflectors on it so you don’t hurt yourself, but tonight will tell the tale.

The common area is pleasant with tables and chairs and sofas and on the deck outside is more seating. Overall a bit in feel like an elegant summer camp!  

We like to get out and walk when we arrive at a new destination, and today was no exception. We chatted with the helpful young woman at reception and arranged for a taxi to take us into Hanga Roa, the main town on the island where most of the residents live. And then to pick us up again an hour later. The downtown area consists of a few streets with lots and lots of restaurants serving empanadas, ceviche, burgers, and fresh local fish washed down with beer, pisco sours, and caipirinhas. In between the eateries were several supermarkets, shops selling souvenirs and handicrafts, tour agencies, a car rental place and other services.

We walked down to the shoreline, still very windy, and gazed upon the breaking waves and noted some colorful boats moored at one end.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is of a Moai reproduction in Hanga Roa.