Category: Churches

Carolina Moments: Reading, Wandering & Eating

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It seemed appropriate with the upcoming election to be reading this week about Supreme Court Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson.

On our latest Raleigh Ramble, we stopped by the Raleigh Capitol and admired some historic architecture. Add in a good meal and the result is a most satisfying combination of food for mind and body.

RECENT READING

Ketanji Brown Jackson (wikipedia.com)

MEMORABLE BIOGRAPHY: Lovely One by Ketanji Brown Jackson

In Lovely One, the newest Supreme Court Justice and the first Black woman justice provides an intimate account of her upbringing and her career.  It is both poignant and heartwarming.  Ketanji Brown Jackson’s parents bore the scars of pre-civil rights days. But they were smart and determined individuals who became schoolteachers.  They instilled strong values in their daughter, gave her an important appreciation of her African heritage, and spurred her to do her best and excel.  

Jackson shares her experiences of frequently being the only Black person in her classroom or workplace.  While popular in high school, and both a class leader and a star on the debate team, she was always conscious of her difference.  Although she had studied in largely white environments, her first year at Harvard without any family nearby was hard and isolating.  Nonetheless, she excelled, later returning to Harvard for her law degree and serving as an editor on the Harvard Law Review.

Meeting Patrick Jackson, husband to be, was transformative for her.  Together they faced the challenges of an interracial marriage between two individuals from very different social classes and navigated the complexities of demanding, high-powered careers.  Jackson is candid about the stresses of motherhood while working in a big law firm with a husband putting in his own long hours in surgery. 

I found this memoir more personal than others I’ve read about public figures.  I particularly enjoyed learning about Jackson’s various mentors from her high school debate coach to the judges she worked for, to her stint as a clerk to Justice Stephen Breyer.  She is generous in her accounts even while occasionally noting someone’s shortsightedness.  

Overall, this is a very good read and gives one a fuller appreciation of what is required to be an effective judge.  Recommended!  (~JWFarrington)

RALEIGH RAMBLE #3

AROUND THE CAPITOL

This week our short ramble, Abroad at Home, included historic architecture, a fun shop, and food.  We started outside the North Carolina Capitol building and noted its soaring World War II memorial.  

Across from the Capitol is the history museum (on the list for a future visit) flanked by various banners including this relevant one about voting.  

Walking on, I was impressed by two churches in different architectural styles.  First Baptist Church, organized in 1812, opened in 1859 in a Gothic Revival style building designed by English architect, William Percival. This cream stuccoed building is scored to give it the appearance of stone.  Its lovely spire is 160 feet tall. 

First Baptist Church
First Presbyterian Church

Just down the block, also on Salisbury St,. is the red brick First Presbyterian Church. Established in 1816, this church building, although renovated several times, dates to 1900.  It has a very present bell tower and is in the Romanesque Revival style.

Interior of Lucettegrace

In our stroll, we also encountered Deco, a slightly funky colorful shop with everything from greeting cards to occasional dishes and the like, and Lucettegrace, a welcoming patisserie with punches of yellow.  I bought several cards in Deco, and the Chief Penguin succumbed to some treats for breakfast at the bakery.   

TAPAS FOR LUNCH

On our way to our lunch destination, we took a slight detour and purchased toffee at Videri Chocolate Factory.  

Lunch at an outside table at Barcelona Wine Bar in the Dillon was all we had hoped it would be.  A warm welcome and efficient waitstaff— even to the point of arranging umbrellas to ward off the noontime sun!  Plus, a fun menu of choices.  We are not particularly fond of brunch, so were pleased to find tapas that didn’t include eggs.  

The patatas bravas, a must order for the Chief Penguin, was a generous plateful.  We loved the piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese, the spiced beef empanadas, and the ham and manchego croquetas.  We also sampled the salt cod bunuelos (round fritters on a chive aioli).   Add in a glass of red or white Spanish wine and you have a very tasty meal!

We miss our favorite tapas restaurant in Manhattan (closed after Covid) and are delighted to have this gem close by!

TRICK OR TREAT!

Ready for Halloween in the park!

Note: All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Italy: Arezzo to Pienza

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Arezzo at night

Yesterday was our last full day in Arezzo.  We’ve enjoyed being here and have had some of the best meals of the trip so far.  That’s partly the result of seeking out trattorias rather than cafes or pizzerias.  In Cortona, we had lunch in town, but took advantage of the tasty appetizers followed by cookies and vin santo offered at our hotel each evening.  They were a satisfactory substitute for dinner (one night augmented by a plate of meats and cheese) and spared us the steep walk up the hill and back in the dark.

FRESCOES IN ARREZO

Crucifix, chapel behind

In the morning, our enthusiastic guide Debora, native of Arezzo and a big booster of her city, took us to see Piero della Francesca’s marvelous frescoes in the Basilica of Saint Francis.  Created in the mid 15th century, the frescoes are in a small chapel named for the Bacci family tucked behind the sanctuary’s massive 13th century crucifix. They tell the Legend of the True Cross and are “read” beginning at the apex of the ceiling.

Frescoes on ceiling

The side walls relate to each other with some symmetry; there is a battle scene depicted on each side at the lowest level.

Battle scene close-up

The annuciation on the left rear wall is matched by Constantine’s dream scene on the right rear wall.

Annunciation
Constantine dream scene, depicting dawn light (previously thought to be a night scene)

There are missing patches on the images, but overall they are quite complete. It’s noteworthy that frescoes in churches were often whitewashed over; only much later, did restoration work reveal the art underneath.

For serious lovers of Renaissance art, these frescoes are worth a trip to Arezzo. Add in the duomo and the other historic architecture, and you can easily spend a day or two.

VAL D’ORCIA

Cypresses lining a driveway

Val D’Orcia, an extensive valley in southern Tuscany, is a protected park and since 2004, a World Heritage Site. There are olive trees and deciduous trees in this valley, but its hallmark are the tall pointed cypress trees. These cypresses appear on postcards and are a feature on several of the winding roads outside Pienza and elsewhere.

On our way to the Renaissance town of Pienza, birthplace of Pope Pius II, we made several stops along the road to take photos. The day was a mix of clouds and sun, making for pretty late morning light.

Greens and browns of Val d’Orcia landscape

PIENZA

Pienza main square

Pope Pius II returned to Pienza and remade the city into the architectural gem it still is today. With its beautiful Renaissance center, it became a UNESCO heritage site in 1996. It is a small town with one main thoroughfare between two city gates with narrow passageways branching off in both directions.

Pienza street view
City gate, Pienza

There are good views of the valley below from the city wall.

View from wall to valley

After our ride and our rambling through town, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a Pienza trattoria. Besides olive oil, cheese is a local product, especially pecorino. There are several varieties and we sampled three, plus I had a lovely dish of gnocchi.

Gnocchi in Parmesan cream

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo taken in Pienza.

Italy: Orvieto

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DUOMO DI ORVIETO

Yesterday we traveled from Rome to Perugia via Orvieto.  It was a pretty ride and a combination of winding country roads and some time on the highway.  We spent several hours in Orvieto, focusing mainly on the striking 14th century Duomo di Orvieto.  

This cathedral, unlike others of gray stone, has beautiful mosaics on the front façade. The side exterior walls and the inside have a striped appearance from alternating layers of white travertine and blackish basalt. 

Travertine & basalt on side walls
Mosaics on facade of Duomo di Orvieto

In style, this cathedral is Italian Gothic.  Dedicated to St. Mary, its history is related to transubstantiation, the transfer of the element of communion into the actual blood of Christ.   A traveling priest found that his Host was bleeding so much it stained the altar cloth.  This cloth is now stored in one of the cathedral’s chapels. 

 It is one of the most distinctive and loveliest large churches I’ve seen anywhere. It sits high on a volcanic or lava neck on a small piazza.

Column in duomo interior

We also stopped by the original church here. Orvieto was a poor town surrounded by farms and the church was small. It has been rebuilt to some extent, but the contrast between this building and the duomo funded by the Vatican is great.

Chiesa di Sant’Andrea with separate bell tower

PERUGIA

Cafe scene Perugia

From Orvieto, we went on to Perugia, capital of Umbria, where we will stay for several nights.  Here we enjoyed drinks at one café and then dinner at another, both in the center of the main thoroughfare. Compared to Rome, it was wonderfully calm and less touristy. At one end of the street were a crowd of people and some classic race cars; occasionally a low slung car rumbled by on one side.  

Locals and others strolled past and it was fun to people watch.  We even engaged with a young man masquerading as a cow.  We didn’t why, but he and his cohorts provided some entertainment. Later we learned it may have been part of a graduation exercise.

Young people on the street

FOOD

In Italy, almost all restaurants and cafes serve only Italian food.  Not other cuisines.  We’ve had several pizzas, ranging from good to so-so, and pasta dishes.  Most noteworthy for pasta for the Chief Penguin and me has been the tagliolini with truffles.  In one case, a mix of black and white truffles, and yesterday at lunch, pasta generously dressed with black truffles.  White ones are not fully in season yet.  

Our other treats were roast lamb or lamb cooked over a wood fire and gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce for the C.P.  I indulged in vitello tonnato, paper thin slices of veal covered with a tuna sauce (consistency of thin mayonnaise) topped with capers, and served cold.  I first had this dish in Rome more than 40 years ago and for me, it’s a must at least once every trip.  

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the piazza around the Duomo Di Orvieto.