Category: Food

Sweden: Dining Around

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EATING OUT IN UPPSALA AND STOCKHOLM

One does not expect a northern country like Sweden to offer outside dining, but it does. Here in Uppsala, there are many sidewalk cafes and glassed-in cafes, some overlooking the river and others just on ordinary streets. Most have heat lamps, extending both the dining hours and the days on which it is possible to eat outdoors.

Iberico, Uppsala

Entrance to Iberico

Set alongside the river, Iberico is a tapas restaurant that serves in a café space in pleasant weather and across the street indoors the rest of the time.  The Chief Penguin discovered this gem, and we were delighted with what we ordered. From a plate of three different hams to shrimps in chili ginger oil, to patatas bravas, and lovely patron peppers sprinkled with salt, to a bomba filled with minced lamb and in a Swedish twist, a bit of truffle, everything was delicious!  Add in some Spanish wine and you have a tasty light meal.

 We liked this restaurant so much, we returned for a light meal after lunch in Stockholm.  We enjoyed the three Iberico hams a second time, the padron peppers, and this time the cheese platter complete with Marcona almonds, small toasts, and mini wedges of cantaloupe. 

Our waiter, a young man who grew up in Moldova, was the youngest son in his family who got “blamed’ for everything. He lived for some years in Dubai, but tiring of the noise and bustle there, moved to Uppsala. He was charming and engaging, adding to our dining pleasure on both occasions.

Saluhallen, Uppsala

Fish counter, Saluhallen

Saluhallen is an elegant food hall.  Not overly large, it is divided into sections and counters devoted to one food group or another.  A lovely selection of cheeses in one case, fish and shrimp preparations at another counter, beef and other meats at another, and fancy pastries at yet another.  You can order items to take home or sit nearby or at tables in a separate attractive light-filled area with big windows.  We didn’t eat or buy here, just wandered through, salivating all the way, promising ourselves a return visit.

Operabaren, Stockholm

Housed in the Royal Swedish Opera House complex, Operabaren is the little sister to Operakallaren, a one Michelin star restaurant also here.  Coming by train from Uppsala (about 45 minutes), we met our friends from Los Angeles.  It’s a small comfortable space with lots of wood and both traditional and elegant in feel.  White tablecloths and white linen napkins, for sure, and all male servers.  The menu is mostly traditional Swedish cuisine, beautifully plated.

Swedish shrimp sandwich

I had the half open face shrimp sandwich as my starter, while the Chief Penguin indulged in herring with little round potatoes. 

Herring and potatoes

For mains, we both ordered Swedish meatballs.  They were little balls in a rich sauce accompanied by puréed potatoes, lingonberries, and pickled cucumber slices.  A perfect rendition of this classic dish! 

Swedish meatballs!

Our friends tucked into a beef and potato entrée and gravlax with potatoes on the side.  Dessert was a buttercream meringue confection for the CP, raspberry sorbet for me, and a cheese plate for the others. 

Meringue confection

It was leisurely meal where we caught up with each others’ lives over the past several decades.

OF NOTE

Street with Hanging lampshades

Smedsgrand Street

I fell in love with the hanging lamp shade lights on Smedsgrand Street in Uppsala.  The shades are large and colorfully patterned and almost all different.  I noted only one pattern that was repeated.  I was curious about them and Googled, but was unable to find any information about them or why and when they were installed. 

TRAIN STATION

Uppsala Train Station

The Uppsala train station is a striking long building.  It is modern, with good signage, and is meticulously clean! Finding where to buy a train ticket, however, is almost impossible.  No signs or obvious ticket machines or service counter.  Finally, the Chief Penguin entered a convenience store to ask.  The helpful man there told him he sells the tickets, and he provided useful details on the schedule and travel times. We later bought tickets from him. Friends told us you can buy tickets online, but we haven’t tried that.

This station also includes an upscale restaurant, a café and a grill.  The restaurant is a separate enterprise from the station management. 

Note: Header photo by the river and all other photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Carolina Capers: On Plate & Screen

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CHEESE, ANYONE?

Cary has the distinction of hosting the only pimento cheese festival in the United States.  Last Saturday was the 6th Annual Pimento Cheese Festival in the downtown park.  I don’t know where previous years were held, but this park was the perfect venue.  With live music, food trucks ringing surrounding streets, activities for kids, and, most importantly, an array of tables and tents where one could sample and then purchase tubs of pimento cheese, it was a happening place.

I like pimento cheese and some of the best I’d ever had previously was Cheese Louise’s version from Artisan Cheese in Sarasota, FL.  Last week, I sampled five or so of the ten available, making the rounds and enjoying the mini cup of cheese with a tiny spoon or a cracker.  Many versions included jalapenos in some form, often pickled.  After all my sampling, I ended up buying a small container of Wendy’s Wicked which was the first one I tasted.  The day was lovely, the park was nicely crowded, and it was a fun outing!

TV VIEWING

HISTORIC FIGURES:  A DIPLOMAT & A SEER

Franklin (Apple TV+)

Pensive Franklin (indiewire.com)

Franklin is an 8-part series about Benjamin Franklin’s time in France struggling to convince the French to support America in its war against the British.  It’s based on a book by Stacy Schiff about untrained Franklin’s role as a diplomat.  (Scholar Schiff is also the author of a biography of Cleopatra which received much acclaim and which I found fascinating.)

Here, Michael Douglas plays a very convincing 70-year-old Franklin—clever, sly, and still a printer at heart.  Temple, Franklin’s teenage grandson, accompanies him.  Initially awkward and inept, Temple settles in and becomes a keen observer on Franklin’s behalf.  But these two also have their tussles, reflecting their different generational outlooks and Temple’s lack of worldly experience.  

There are many characters, and it is sometimes hard to quickly know which French official or nobleman it is, and which side of the conflict he is on.  Nonetheless, with close attention, the series offers an inside look at the strategies and machinations required to bring the French on board.  We have watched through Episode 4. 

Einstein and the Bomb (Netflix)

(economictimes.indiatimes.com)

This hour-plus docudrama, Einstein and the Bomb, lays out key points in Einstein’s personal life and his theory of relativity.  It brings together the events that led him to exit Nazi Germany for England, then the U.S., and how the threat posed by Hitler coupled with his scientific knowledge impacted his thinking and his activism.  Starting in Princeton in 1955, Einstein reflects on his life, the aftermath of WWII, and reveals his doubts and sorrow over the use of the atomic bomb.

The film alternates between theatrical scenes and archival film, but all the words attributed to Einstein are his.  It’s a powerful piece of cinema.  One small annoyance is the flashes of numbers that precede the black and white historical film clips.  

This film made me wonder whether leaders in this country are fully cognizant of the damage that would be wrought by a second term for Trump.  Are our seers being heard?  Recommended!

ADVENTUROUS EATING #3

LAOTIAN CUISINE:  SAAP

Thanks to our son and daughter-in-law’s generosity, we had an extra incentive to try this hot new restaurant located just behind the Cary Downtown Park.  SAAP, which means “yummy” in Laotian, is the latest venue for Laos native and now longtime North Carolina resident, Lon Buonsanga.  Previously executive chef at a Laotian restaurant in Raleigh, he now owns his own place. 

Located in a high-ceilinged open space with a bar on one side, SAAP feels contemporary and bright.  It has received much laudatory press, and even early on a Friday night, the place was already busy.  

Crispy coconut rice (GCF)

The Chief Penguin and I ordered from the small plates menu section and loved everything we ordered! Between us, we shared excellent crispy spring rolls, tasty chicken satay skewers, and a new dish for us, crispy coconut rice with bits of pork to wrap in large lettuce leaves.  We will return to try the curries and steamed fish. SAAP is open for lunch and dinner.

Fall Potpourri: Eating & Viewing

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THANKSGIVING IN NORTH CAROLINA

We spent Thanksgiving week in North Carolina. I was pleased to see burnished fall colors on the trees as we landed at RDU.  That’s something I miss about living in Florida.  But it was a cold week, and this Florida wimp wore many layers to stay warm, even on the afternoon we explored a new park in Cary.

There was plenty of warmth on Turkey Day with several generations of family celebrating.  Our granddaughters and our son and daughter-in-law, my two sisters and spouses, along with nieces and spouses and one other kid.  We toasted with mimosas and sparkling cider and nibbled at an assortment of fine cheeses, jalapeno popcorn, and chips before attacking the table’s bounty.  With roast turkey and a ham, tasty sides (including mac and cheese), and a choice of pecan pie, apple cake, and yummy cookies to finish, there was no cause for complaint.  We had much for which to be thankful—not least the sheer joy of being together.

DINING HERE AND THERE

Magone Italian Grill & Pizza, Chapel Hill

As an antidote to turkey, many of us decamped to Magone Italian Grill the next day for dinner.  This unprepossessing place appeared casual in the extreme.  It looked like they focused on takeout business.  I explained that we were going to be 10 people and was it possible to have a table.  The young waitress quickly sprang into action, leading me toward the back, pushing two tables together, and offering to bring water for everyone.  

The menu is long and extensive, making one initially wonder if they would deliver on quality.  We were not disappointed.  My chicken piccata with angel hair pasta was delicious, while others enjoyed shrimp with pesto over penne, a pizza with pepperoni and fresh basil, and other classic dishes.  Throughout, our server was pleasant and helpful.  It was a relaxed dining experience, and I’d happily return!

BESO, Sarasota

(scenesarasota.com)

The Chief Penguin and I had a favorite Spanish restaurant in San Francisco, Coqueta, near the Ferry Building.  In Manhattan, we were regulars at family-owned El Porron until they closed due to the pandemic.  Consequently, we were delighted to read about the opening of BESO (kiss in Spanish), a tapas restaurant in The Mark in downtown Sarasota.  We had dinner here with friends and were wowed by the food, the space, and the service.  

Had I not been so involved in sampling what we ordered, I would have taken a photo or two.  As it was, we tried the patatas bravas (best I’ve had), mini pork & chorizo meatballs, shrimps in garlic oil, croquetas, fried artichokes, and bread with olive tapenade.  Portions are small as tapas are meant to be, and we happily shared what we ordered among the four of us.  

The menu includes a variety of Spanish wines by the glass or bottle, cocktails, and, of course, several flavors of sangria.  For those who want a more leisurely experience, it’s possible to order one of three paellas (allow 45 minutes.). I can easily envision this restaurant becoming a favorite!  It fills a hole in the local dining scene.  

VIEWING—FOR FANS OF BRIDGERTON

The Buccaneers (Apple TV+)

Nan in center with her compatriots (Hollywood Reporter)

Loosely based (very loosely) on Edith Wharton’s unfinished novel of the same name, The Buccaneers is an exuberant series of high emotion and high society.  The time is the 1870’s.  Five young women, daughters of rich American fathers, have journeyed from New York to London. They have hopes of snaring a duke or a lord as a husband.  Unlike the more reserved English girls, these Americans romp and run around outside, feet off the ground, arms high in the air.  

The central focus is on Nan (Annabel) who attracts the attention of two worthy men, one a duke, the other simply impoverished. Nan has a rich father, but she is not entirely whom she seems.  One friend, Conchita, marries quickly and just as quickly discovers marriage is not all that she expected.  Her British in-laws expect her to be demure and subdued.

Jinny, Nan’s sister, follows with a wedding to Lord Seadown, a controlling figure.  Others in the group are not sure men are what is needed in their lives.  What begins as balls and parties and gaiety soon dissolves into the messiness of life and unrealistic or unfulfilled expectations.

The gorgeous costumes, the lavish settings, and the modern musical soundtrack provide a wonderful backdrop to the dramas being played out.  

The series runs to 8 episodes with new ones released weekly.  I have watched the first four episodes, enjoying the series more as the five women are more individually defined.   Indulgent, fun, and occasionally poignant!  Recommended!  

Seen in Fearrington Village

Note: All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Italy: Eating Out in Tuscany

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PASTA

Pasta with truffles

If you like pasta and/or pizza, you’ll never go hungry in Italy.  We have been enjoying the pastas in particular and the fresh truffles.  The Chief Penguin is truffle-obsessed; I’m just very fond of them.  Consequently, we have both had tagliolini (the thin spaghetti-like pasta) with black truffles and a couple times with some early white truffles.  The white ones are supremely delicious, with the best ones later on in November and even into December.  

Handkerchief pasta

My favorite pasta dish thus far, aside from those with truffles, was the fazzoletti (handkerchiefs) stuffed with a bit of sausage covered with a light film of cheese.  They were thin and green and oh, so delicate and delicious! 

Raviolis in Florence

 I also loved some ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach served in Tuscan meat sauce.

BRUSCHETTA

Overloaded tomato bruschetta with pesto

When tomatoes are really ripe, there is nothing quite like a bruschetta to start your meal.  Chopped fresh tomato on good toasted bread with a bit of olive oil can be sublime.  We’ve had many renditions, but the best one so far was in Florence with an under layer of pesto.

Another day, we had a bruschetta variation we hadn’t had before, and that was a thin layer of sausage with slices of black truffle on top.  Super yum!

Sausage bruschetta

CAPRESE

By now, most Americans are familiar with the salad of sliced tomatoes and mozzarella with fresh basil called caprese and usually topped with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  We’ve had several versions of it on this trip.   We had an especially pretty plate in Cortona at Bar 500.  

Caprese in Cortona

Another caprese was the wonderful one we had in Florence with a bit of dried oregano on top.

Caprese salad, Florence

STARTERS

A surprise starter was some beautiful smoked Scottish salmon with burrata that we also sampled in Cortona.

Scottish salmon

In Florence, the Chief Penguin began with a light asparagus soufflé topped with shaved black truffle, something different.

Asparagus souffle

One lunch, the CP and I shared a starter called Pop and Cool, and yes, it was listed in English on the Italian menu.  It was prosciutto, melon, and some focacacia.  Pretty to look and refreshing to eat.

Pop and Cool

RISOTTO

I’m a big fan of risotto, but given that we haven’t really been in northern Italy, have only seen it on a few menus. A  properly made risotto is a creamy rice dish that can be as simple as when rice, good stock, and Parmesan cheese are combined in stages, or a more complex dish with the addition of vegetables, meat, or seafood.

I ordered a veggie risotto with zucchini at a local eatery in Arezzo, but it was on the dry side and not a true creamy risotto.  The first one I had this trip (in Rome) included smoked cheese, and it was very satisfying.  I tried again in Florence. Here my risotto with asparagus, shrimp, and melted provolone on top was the right consistency and tasty.

Risotto with shrimp & asparagus

OTHER DISHES

We are in Tuscany and beef dominates many menus. At home, we are not frequent beef eaters, and consequently, have not (at least not yet) indulged in steak Florentine or any other steak options.  I did enjoy a veal stew Tuscan style in Arezzo which I thought might include carrots and onions, but it was simple cubes of veal in a rich dark sauce.  

And I’ve treated myself twice now to vitello tonnato.  Traditionally, this dish of thinly sliced cold veal topped with a tuna mayonnaise is garnished with a few capers. One I had was, but the most recent version had sliced fennel on it and no capers.  The fennel was a sweet alternative to capers, and the dish was great with the addition of fresh cracked black pepper.

Fennel on vitello tonnato

The Chief Penguin opted for a calzone one night with ham and cheese, probably enough for four given its size.  

Calzone at Cavour 42

And on another night, he opted for a starter of salami and burrata with shreds of black truffle, again a very large portion, and a bit surprising in an Italian restaurant.  Perhaps Americans were their target audience.

Salami starter

PIZZA, JUST BECAUSE

Pizza is available everywhere. You could easily have a pizza twice, if not three times a day. Here’s a rustic pizza with spinach, sausage, and Gorgonzola cheese that the Chief Penguin ordered. And no, he didn’t eat all of it! Italy is carb heaven, and what good carbs they are, but one has to exercise a tiny bit of restraint. Bon Appétit!

Rustic pizza

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.).