Category: Food

Portland: Food & More

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PORTLAND—FOOD AND MORE

Like Julius Caesar’s army, the Chief Penguin and I travel on our stomachs.  Despite what it may seem, we did do more in Portland than eat. But, knowing the restaurants mid-coast are not as varied or inventive, we took advantage of Portland’s wonderful foodie scene.

DINING

Hugo’s

Hugo’s Cucumber

The food at Hugo’s is sophisticated and creative.   We’ve now eaten here several years in a row on our first night in Portland and this visit was no exception.  We began with tuna crudo and then proceeded to a charcuterie board; cucumber with falafel nibs; roasted cauliflower bathed in a smear of hot sauce; and spaghetti chittara; ending with two desserts—chocolate several ways and mini cubes of rhubarb accompanied by mousse and locust leaf sorbet, etc.  All dishes were on the small side and we shared everything.  We hadn’t ordered the cucumber, but when they brought it instead of the cauliflower we did order, they comped us the cucumber.  

Duckfat

We were inspired to try some place different for lunch, figuring if there were a line out the door we’d go elsewhere.  But Lady Luck was with us as we were seated at the bar immediately upon arriving, just ahead of the noon rush!  Duckfat is most casual with seating on high stools at the bar and low stools at counters around the perimeter.  

It is known for its Belgian fries so of course we had to sample them.  Probably the best fries I’ve ever tasted and even better with the Thai chili dipping sauce! From there we moved on to the duck and charred cabbage salad; a board of charcuterie and salmon, Tasso ham, pimento cheese, homemade pickles, loma, and buttered brown bread; and also a wedge salad (actually two large wedges) decorated with slivers of tomato and radish slices in a rich blue cheese dressing.  The last was to offset those fries. Paired with a glass of summery rose, it all made for the perfect lunch!  

Chaval

Chaval is the sister restaurant to Piccolo which we’ve also enjoyed.  This was our second meal at Chaval and with a slight chance of rain, they had closed their garden in favor of inside seating. The menu is a mix of small plates and entrees such as steak frites.  Having enjoyed our Duckfat lunch, we ordered more lightly—warm olives, broccolini with bacon and bits of orange, a young beet salad, Iberia ham croquettes, and the Alsace chicken breast entree with morels and spinach in a light cream sauce, which we shared.  Everything was delicious!

Broccolini with bacon and citrus triangles

While out and about, we also checked out a natural foods store, stopped in to Le Roux Kitchenware for mugs and paring knives, and bought pancetta and good canned tuna at Micucci Grocery, a new find on India Street.  All sorts of Italian dry goods from jars of peppers and pickles to panettone, and many pasta shapes, plus cheeses and sliced meats.  

ART

We like the Portland Museum of Art.  They do an excellent job presenting their collection and engaging visitors with exhibits that focus on lesser-known aspects of arts and crafts.   The currently featured exhibit is called In the Vanguard:  Haystack Mountain School of Crafts 1950-1969.  It brings together works by sculptors, painters, and fabric artists that were groundbreaking and signaled new directions in artistic creation for that time.

Celibacy, 1968, wool macrame by Walter Nottingham

Also on display is Open-Ended, an exhibit of new museum acquisitions that I particularly enjoyed. What makes it special is the commentary about why a piece was purchased and its significance or connection to the rest of the collection.

BOOKSTORES

And for me, time spent in Portland would not be complete without time in their independent bookstores. We didn’t get to Print this year (our time here was shorter than usual), but we browsed in Sherman’s (one of their several locations, this one on Exchange Street) and in Longfellow Books at Monument Square.   I made several purchases in each store, adding to my growing stack of summer reading!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is of the board at Duckfat.

Manhattan Meals: Eating Around

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Italian cuisine dominates the dining scene today, but here and there you can locate a good French bistro. I’ve also discovered that many folks on the Upper East Side eat early.  By 6:30, tables at small restaurants will all be taken. Here’s a selection of Manhattan restaurants we’ve enjoyed this past month, most that I haven’t previously covered.

Brasserie Cognac

This is a small French restaurant that was always full when we would walk by. Over the Memorial Day weekend, it was practically empty enabling us to easily book a table. We weren’t in the mood for a big meal and found the appetizer section of the menu much to our liking. My goat cheese and tomato tart on puff pastry was scrumptious while the Chief Penguin ordered and liked their famous tuna tart.

Sample of goat cheese and tomato tart

He followed his tart with the salmon croque monsieur which was rich and mouth-filling. I opted for the spinach, pine nut and parmesan salad which was enhanced by a generous number of avocado slices. With these two smaller dishes, delicate gougeres, and some wonderful holey olive bread, we were very content!

Jean Claude 2

This cozy French bistro is popular and we were pleased that we arrived a bit ahead of our 7 pm reservation.  The Chief Penguin ordered the beet and endive salad graced with a few walnut halves which was both very pretty and very tasty.  He then had the skate which was on the dry side, while I sampled the roasted cod over vegetable risotto and a yellow pepper puree, a yummy combination.  Bread pudding is his one weakness (to quote a TV character who had many “one weaknesses”) and this rendition was appropriately satisfying.

Barbaresco

This is one of the many Italian restaurants around.  Brick side walls and a sea of white linens on small tables make for a charming ambience.  Service is old style male waiters who recite the specials with dramatic briskness.  Listen carefully or you’ll need a repeat.  We shared a Caesar salad which was just right.  I then ordered the special swordfish entrée, Livorno style or bathed in a tomato-based sauce with capers and black olives.  It came with a vegetable medley and some roast potatoes. The Chief Penguin tried their veal saltimbocca which was good, but not the equal of the version we get in Maine. In addition to meat and fish entrees, there’s a good selection of pasta dishes.  This is another very popular eatery and one will visit again.

Tony’s Di Napoli

This red gravy+ Italian restaurant is a locus for family groups.  We dined here the night before Mother’s Day and thought that was the reason for all the tables with families with small children.  Apparently, not; this is a regular occurrence.  It’s a boisterous dining experience so avoid it if you were looking for a quiet meal. That said, the service was pleasant and efficient and our food very good.

Most dishes are offered in half and full portions with full designed to serve 2-3.  Believe the menu, they are large and will!  We ordered the full Caesar salad and would have been equally happy with a half portion.  It’s prepared table side and the dressing was a lovely balance between piquant and mellow and not over garlicky.  We then ordered half portions of veal saltimbocca (Chief Penguin), which here was topped with some sautéed spinach, and the veal piccata.  The latter was lovely with just the right tang of lemon in the sauce.  

The crusty bread was perfect with the veal dishes, but if you wanted potatoes or a veggie, then you had to order a side.  They have a full bar (one Old Fashioned coming up!) and wines by the glass. In the interest of full disclosure, it was good enough that we returned the next night (it was raining and the restaurant close by) for another dinner, and this time asked to sit upstairs which was a less frenetic scene.

The Beach Café

We had no dinner plans and decided to just stroll and see what might tickle our fancy.  Almost a misnomer with its dark wood interior, dark bar and tables, Beach Café on Second Avenue feels cozy and perfect for a cold winter’s day.  But they have outside tables and a whale on the wall that evokes Nantucket or some other east coast beach.  We opted for inside and were most pleased with the service from waiter Nick, a poised young man with a welcome beyond his years.  My pan roasted salmon with broccoli and mashed potatoes was perfectly prepared.  Even the broccoli was just the right amount of doneness.  The Chief Penguin’s chicken compagna platter could have easily fed a lobsterman and came with a side of spaghetti with a slightly spicy and smoky sauce.  

A.O.C.

This West Village French bistro is a longtime favorite of ours and never fails to please. We like it so much, we often order the same entrees time and again. This time I tried the roast chicken rather than the chicken paillard and substituted mixed vegetables for the french fries. The chicken was perfectly done with nicely crisped skin, and the vegetable medley of carrot cubes, spinach leaves, asparagus tips and green beans was healthy and flavorful. The Chief Penguin again opted for the merguez sausages with fries and enjoyed them as much as on previous visits. We don’t care for mussels, but if you do, they are one of their specialities.

Via Carota

I have enthused and enthused about this favorite of ours so suffice it to say, we returned for a third meal and were once again delighted! Alas for us, it has been discovered and wait times are long—-unless you deign to dine at unfashionable times, which we do.

Note: Contents and photos ©JWFarrington.

Tidy Tidbits: Reading & Dining

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RECENT READING

Next Year in Havana by Chanel Cleeton

I purchased this novel since I had recently visited Cuba and figured I would like the setting.  Cleeton has written several contemporary romances, but this book and her newest, When We Left Cuba, take place in Havana and were inspired by stories of her own family.  Adopting the popular trend of parallel plotlines, the book focuses on Elisa, a young woman in Havana in 1959, and on Marisol, her 30ish granddaughter who visits Havana in 2017, ostensibly to scatter her grandmother’s ashes.  Each woman meets and is attracted to an unconventional man, either not of the right class and/or involved in politics she doesn’t fully comprehend.  

I recognized many of the Havana streets and monuments and enjoyed reading about them and the city’s natural beauty.  I also appreciated the author’s weaving in detail about the current state of Cuban society.  The plot is somewhat predictable, but overall, it’s a good read, perfect for the beach or a long flight.  So much so, that I’m ready to read the new novel too! And for those who might care, this title is one of Reese Witherspoon’s picks for her book club.  (~JWFarrington).

SOPHISTICATED DINING

Indigenous in downtown Sarasota has been on our list for several years and, in celebration of my birthday, we dined there this week.  The gray wooden building is somewhat rustic in appearance with a welcoming wraparound veranda for outdoor dining.  Not knowing what to expect, we had requested inside and were taken to a small adjacent structure called the wine cottage.  It had a small bar in the back and just a few tables.  One wall was attractively paneled with sides from wooden wine cases showcasing a variety of different vineyards.  Chad, our waiter, was both experienced and very knowledgeable about the menu.  It’s built around seafood and is both innovative and sophisticated.  But for diehard meat eaters, there’s also an elaborate burger.  

Pork Belly Kimchi

We sampled the pickled peppers to start and then the Chief Penguin enjoyed the wild mushroom bisque (robust and rich), Thai green curry fish dip with crackers and veggies (nice tang to the dip!) and the pork belly kimchi (he’s a devotee of kimchi). I ordered the ocean crudo appetizer which had cobia as the base and elements of vanilla, some crunch, and a bit of hot pepper.  It was interesting, but I thought there were too many flavors competing which made the overall effect a bit muddy. 

Red Snapper

 For my entrée, I tried one of the fish choices of the day, delicate red snapper on a bed of peapod risotto with some tiny cherry tomatoes and micro greens.  It was exquisite!  Other entrees include baked scallops and a shrimp dish.  For dessert, we indulged in a dish of their milk chocolate ice cream, smooth and soothing to the palate—the perfect finish.

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington.

Mexico to Florida: Dining Haute to Casual

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LAST DAY IN MEXICO CITY

We crammed a fair bit into our last full day in Mexico City.  It was all built around our reservation for a 1:30 lunch at Pujol, considered the best restaurant in the city. Our exquisite meal lasted nearly three hours.  Pujol changes the menu daily, and we had our choice between two seven course tasting menus, one built around corn and the other, the sea.  We chose, “Mar,” the sea, and were delighted and intrigued by the range of tastes, textures and presentation.  

Everything from street foods including two tender ears of corn that had been smoked in incense and coated with a caramel covered sauce, to a wreath of diced scallops in a lime pico, to a beautiful piece of grilled octopus with a dollop of pureed carrot that looked like egg yolk (I was never a fan of octopus, but this trip has expanded my palate), to a square of sea bass on tomato marmalade under a brittle green leaf, a puddle of two kinds of mole, plus more. It was the height of culinary talent, but also very tasty. 

Chayote squash and scallop pico

Octopus and pickled carrot
Mole madre 1,847 days, mole neuvo

BIRDS

Before going to lunch, we visited the aviary in Abraham Lincoln Park in the Polanco neighborhood.  We got there just after it opened and the birds, parrots, parakeets, songbirds, and one lone peacock, were noisy and screechy, but oh, so colorful.  With an assist from the Chief Penguin, I made some camera setting adjustments that enabled me to get some satisfactory photos.  And it was fun!  The other visitors were mostly mothers or nannies with young children plus one young couple. Not crowded and you could get up close to some of the parrots and to the peacock.

ART

After lunch, we made brief tours of two museums.   Museo Jumex is a relatively new museum, opened in 2013, which focuses on contemporary art and aims to “become a laboratory for experimentation and innovation in the arts.”  There wasn’t a lot on exhibit, so we didn’t stay too long.  Across the street is another museum which in some ways is more noted for the building’s architecture than the collection.    

Museo Soumaya

Museo Soumaya is a large private museum and is the collection of founder Carlos Slim, one extremely wealthy man who named the museum for his late wife.  Its distinctive building, narrow at the base and widening like a vase as it rises to a rooftop space, make it stand out from the more linear buildings surrounding it.  This collection of 66,000 pieces covers a wide range of time periods from European art to Mexican artifacts and articles to the largest collection of Rodin sculptures anywhere.  We were there very late in the day and the museum had been invaded by several big groups of what appeared to be middle school students all in like garb, each group with a different colored stripe on their black pants.  I’m not sure if they had a specific assignment, but there was an adult or two herding the separate groups.  They made for a noisy visit so we somewhat quickly wound our way up several levels and then in a more leisurely way surveyed the art and wound our way down. 

FLORIDA RECOVERY

We returned home several days ago.  What better way to recover from a gastronomically challenging trip than to go to a prized Irish sports bar?  Several of our male friends have enthused about going to Clancy’s after golf for a leisurely lunch. Bill, marketeer supreme, has suggested for the past year that several couples should go with him and Alice for the experience.  It finally happened!  We four, along with Cathy, Dean, Jane and Mark, gathered for a relaxed lunch.  Clancy’s outside is very pleasant.  There is a now a sunshade over the tables, new pristine restrooms, and an owner and waitress who know our crew well.  

The menu has all those good items you probably shouldn’t eat but will willingly indulge in on the right occasion.  This was the right occasion.  Between us all, we ordered a tuna melt, chicken quesadillas, a burger, wings, a Clancy roll (fried and very special) and scoops of tuna salad on greens.  The latter proving that if you want to be healthy, it’s possible to find a salad or two!  Oh, almost forgot to mention the Clancy’s chips with blue cheese dip that Mark ordered to share.  These orders went along with an IPA or two or three just to wash it all down.  A good time was had by all; and as my sister Sal might add, we laughed a lot!  We will return.

Good times at Clancy’s!

Note: Mexico City photos by JWFarrington; Clancy’s photos by Bill & Mark. Header photo is a ceviche served at Pujol.