Around Manhattan: Sculpture & Food

HUMAN BODY SCULPTED

Like Life: Sculpture, Color and the Body

This exhibit at Met Breuer of people from about 1300 to the present takes up two floors of the museum. Classical sculpture of human figures was done in marble, almost always white.  This exhibit explores examples of white sculpture, but also instances of tinted figures and some contemporary works such as the black house painter by American sculptor Duane Hanson.  The second half of the exhibit on the 3rdfloor is more challenging, and I would add, “viewer discretion advised.” It includes bodies in coffins, several crucifixion works, and other works that are bizarre or macabre. It’s both fascinating and occasionally creepy.

DINING FINDS

We are staying in another neighborhood new to us near the Queensboro Bridge and are exploring dining options in the surrounding blocks.  

Tiella—This Italian eatery is small and cozy with a pleasing choice of dishes.  A standout entree was the orata served under layers of wafer thin slices of potato and sautéed spinach flavored with lemon and thyme.

Under the Bridge—A tiny Greek place that quickly becomes loud and boisterous.  We were warmly welcomed with a smile and a big hello and then proceeded to order a range of small plates instead of entrees.  The shrimps in an ouzo laced thick tomato sauce were exceptional, and the grilled halloumi satisfying, while the special zucchini fritters and lemon potatoes rounded out the plate.  Tables are close together so you can easily check out your neighbor’s fare!

Rosa Mexicano—This is part of a chain, but the food seems to be genuine Mexican fare—nothing gloppy or sloppy!  The guacamole is made tableside to your degree of heat and the margaritas are large and potent.   We sampled a quesadilla and some chicken flautas.

Bistro Vendome.  Charming French restaurant with an upper level terrace that was perfect for a spring evening.  We loved the food—duck confit and broiled branzino with fennel and red peppers, preceded by an artichoke salad and a special “cocktail’ of avocado mousse topped with crab meat and mini tomato bits.  Service could have been more attentive than it was.  

READING AND VIEWING

Howards End by E. M. Forster. 

Prompted by my friend Patricia some months ago, I finally got around to re-reading Forster’s novel. I procrastinated until I read that a new version was to be shown on the Starz network.  Despite Forster’s many authorial comments and frequent philosophizing, I enjoyed it.  It questions to what extent we are individually or collectively responsible for the wellbeing and fate of those less fortunate than we.

A novel about social class, it brings into conflict, or at least tension, the arty Schlegel sisters and brother with lower class clerk Leonard Bast.  Add in business tycoon, Henry Wilcox and his family, and you have another set of views based on profit, rationality, and indifference to others.  Margaret Schlegel is the focal point.  She is smart and educated, and has provided a home and stability for her flighty sister and much younger brother after the death of their remaining parent.  Both she and Helen interact with the Wilcoxes, but Margaret’s relations will have a lasting impact.  The novel was original published in 1910.

The BBC production on Starz is in four parts and is very faithful to the book.  Unlike the wonderful film with Emma Thompson, the pacing is more measured and there is more time for small details and character development.

RECENT BOOKS

Every Note Played by Lisa Genova.

Neuroscientist turned author, Genova writes novels that focus on how an individual or a family deals with some tragic illness.  Still Alice, her best-known novel, was about an accomplished professor who was afflicted with early onset Alzheimer’s. It was made into a popular movie of the same title.  Genova then wrote about Huntington’s disease and this latest novel takes up the cause of ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease as it’s commonly called.  Stephen Hawking lived more than 30 years with ALS, but he was an exceptional case.

Richard, a world-renowned concert pianist, develops ALS when he’s 45.  He is divorced from Karina, also a talented pianist who put her career aside for him, and father to a college-age daughter named Grace.  As his ALS progresses and it becomes clear that he can no longer stay in his own apartment, Karina takes him in.  The novel reads at times like a documentary or a medical treatise on the ravages of this horrible disease, with the fictional story of Richard and Karina’s tumultuous and bitter relationship an afterthought. I wouldn’t call it a totally successful novel, but as a guide to learning about ALS, it is comprehensive.

The Rules Do Not Apply by Ariel Levy.

A staff writer for The New Yorker for the past decade, Levy gives us a memoir of her atypical upbringing and her rough ride through her 20’s and 30’s.  She seeks adventure, travels to exotic locales for work, and, after a mad party-fueled period, marries Lucy, her lover and mentor who turns out to be an alcoholic.  Levy’s account is bold, brash, and very frank.

I have to admit I didn’t particularly like the book.  At times it was too raw, too emotional, and, to me, too self-indulgent.  But it was named a best book of the year by a number of publications including Vogue, Time, The Guardian, and Library Journal, so I guess I’m in the minority.  I also learned after finishing it (I did read it to the end) that my son had worked with her and likes her.

 Notes:  Header photo is Donatello’s Nicollo da Uzzano. All photos by JWFarrington.

November Reflections

NOVEMBER MOOD

If you live in a true temperate climate, like I did growing up, you might say that the months have personalities.  Personalities influenced by the weather and the holidays.  In November, in upstate New York, it got dark early and then earlier and earlier.  And it was cold.  Often the first significant snowfall put in an appearance.  It was a month that was more somber than joyful albeit punctuated by the warm sounds of gratitude and full bellies around a Thanksgiving table.

In the last years before her death, my mother dominated my siblings’ and my thoughts and concerns.  There was infrequent mention of my father who had died so many years before.  I would quietly think about him each November 6 the Election Day anniversary of his leaving us.  This year, with my mother gone two years past, I almost missed this anniversary.

My father was a very warm and nurturing individual.  He played board games and Wiffle ball with us kids and invested significant amounts of time paying attention to and being available to us.  I think he was ahead of other men of his generation.

I still recall with fondness the morning he met me for coffee in the W.T. Grant department store downtown.  I was probably home from college or in my last years of high school.  I felt so grown up to be doing this.  Mind you, this was long before Starbucks and a café on every corner.  Dad met me, we sat on stools at the simple lunch counter, chatted, and then we separately left.  He to return to work, and I to do whatever.  I felt that in his eyes that day, I was an adult.

Sadly, my father died far too young at only 48.  On that fateful Election Day eve, we drove hours through the dark, cold, snow-flurry night to say our last goodbyes.  He was the only one who voted (absentee).  He never got to know and enjoy his grandson and granddaughters nor his great grandchildren.  But he left a legacy of caring and warmth that lives on in us as we remember and cherish all that he gave us in that short time.  And, it being November and Veterans Day, he was also a World War II and Korean War Navy vet.

November can be a gloomy month up north, but it redeems itself with thankfulness on a day to draw close to family and friends.

RECIPE OF THE WEEK

A very good friend served us these tuna and bulgur stuffed peppers recently, and they were delicious!  So much so that I immediately made a copy of the recipe for myself.  It’s from Melissa Clark at the New York Times.  These peppers are prettier than hers!

Down Under: Marlborough

MARLBOROUGH WINE REGION

On Monday, we reprised the water taxi from Charlotte Sound back to Picton and then got a rental car to drive the short distance to our next port of call. In yet another example of the kindliness of individuals here, the women at the Cougar Line office offered to take our luggage and keep it while we walked to the ferry terminal, home of the rental car agencies. It wasn’t a very long walk, but a lot easier without dragging suitcases.

We are now staying outside Blenheim, in this celebrated sauvignon blanc wine region, at a lovely country home called Marlborough Lodge. Open not quite a year, Marlborough Lodge was a Catholic convent in another era, but was moved to this location and the interior gutted and re-modeled with modern plumbing and appropriate Victorian style furnishings. The building dates from the early 1900’s and is large, but not overly grand. Several parts of it have been enlarged including the kitchen area. It’s simply lovely and sits on several acres of land with extensive gardens and its own vineyards. Over the weekend, the lodge hosted a wedding party, but we were the only guests our first night and had the full attention of Peter White, the general manager.   

Continuing the informality of this country, Peter greeted me with just his first name and proceeded to sit down with us,  give us an overview of the lodge and the region with suggestions for where to have lunch, and then a building tour ending at our room. Before dinner, he invited us, his usual practice, to join him for a drink and some canapés. Despite the definite chill in the air, we opted to sit outside by the stone fireplace—albeit bundled up in several layers and making use of the lodge’s wool blankets—for a sauvignon blanc that had been oaked a bit making it a bit rounder and less grassy, along with some chorizo beignets. 

The two dining rooms inside are light and attractive and in Harvest, the more formal one, one wall is dominated by a vivid scene of bushes with brightly colored blooms. The menu offered lots of choices and we could order whatever we wanted to try (part of the room rate). We tried a number of dishes, but discovered the portions were somewhat larger than we expected. Especially tasty were the local king salmon and the pumpkin risotto.

For lunch earlier in the afternoon, on Peter’s advice, we ventured to Brancott Estate, about 20 minutes away and sitting high on a ridge. You park on one level, and a winery staff person comes along in a van to take you up to the top where the tasting room and restaurant are located. It was a perfect lunch! 

Both for the food and the marvelous view of the vineyard spread out below, its orderly rows making a wonderful tapestry of green and brown. My ora king salmon on skinny noodles in dashi broth was sublime and the Chief Penguin’s monkfish on a potato concoction with asparagus equally delicious. Paired with the recommended wines, it couldn’t have been any better!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Down Under: Dining in Wellington

MEALS IN WELLINGTON  We found Wellington to be a great food city. There are more restaurants here per capita than in New York, a fact cited to us several times.  With our short visit, we only scratched the surface of good eating.

Artisan. The weather was so miserable our first evening that we opted to eat in the hotel dining room called Artisan. We were pleasantly surprised at how good the food was. We started with some mixed olives and two breads with a flight of four olive oils. The olives were lovely, the olive oils good, but the so-called artisanal bread disappointing. Our next courses were superb; both my smoked cheddar soufflé with cherry tomatoes and spinach and the Chief Penguin’s smoked salmon. We like small plates rather than large entrees and often order these smaller, usually lighter, dishes. My soufflé wasn’t light, but it was exquisite!

Ombra. The concierge in our hotel has been most helpful and enthusiastically recommended several restaurants. We’ve been taking him up on them and today’s lunch was at a casual Italian bistro. We ordered the gorganzola picante with walnuts and honey, gnocchi with cheese and lamb ragu, and fritto misto. Everything was delicious, but especially the gnocchi. To top it off we had three chocolate truffles: coconut, lemongrass and hazelnut.  

 

Whitebait. Dinner here was by far the best meal we’ve had in New Zealand. It’s on the waterfront and the dining room is simple with bare wood tables and high back fabric-covered chairs in muted shades of gray, blue, and aqua. Yvette and Josephine gave us friendly service and everything we ordered was not only beautifully presented, but superb. This is sophisticated dining. We started with anchovy toasts and smoked eel mini tacos (for the C.P. who likes eel) followed by snapper filet on slices of preserved Meyer lemon topped with celeriac for me and for him, lemon sole topped with a mix of peas and beans (very green), and a seasonal citrus salad with fennel, pistachios, and bits of green olive. The salad was reminiscent of a similar salad served at Ports of Italy in Boothbay Harbor, Maine, but more elegant, although I’d leave out the olives. The chefs here are fond of salty tastes.  

 

Chow. Our hosts at Te Papa tooks us to this Chinese place for lunch, which was perfect for our group of five. We ordered seven or eight dishes which were all small platters with five or six pieces including fish cakes, sesame crusted seared tuna, two kinds of dumplings, and chicken satay. Everything was tasty, but could have been spicier for this twosome.

 

Noble Rot Wine Bar.  For our last evening, we dined at Noble Rot, a very happening place recommended again by the hotel concierge.  He adopted us and seemed to eagerly wait our reporting back after each meal.  The front bar and high tables were fully occupied when we arrived, but fortunately for us shorties and oldsters, there were tables  of normal height in the side room.  Most were empty at first, but by the time we left all but one was taken.

With our wine (they have an extensive list of wines by the glass), we started with some chorizo and pecorino cheese with black truffle and accompaniments and then moved on to a couple entrees.  The Chief Penguin had the chicken with parsnips and mushrooms which had been done sous vide and was marvelously tender and lovely.  I had the fish of the day which was a local white fish served with capers and some roasted cauliflower and a bit of sauce on the side.  Also lovely.  Being chocoholics (at least I am), we had a dark chocolate truffle each.

 

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is gnocchi with lamb ragu and Parmesan.