Category: Food

Italy: Discovering Spello

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FLOWERS

Yesterday we spent most of the day in Spello, a short drive from Perugia. Spello is an old Etruscan town and one known for its annual religious flower festival, Infiorate di Spello, around Easter. There are many window boxes on buildings and walls, and folks collect and dry the blossoms to be used for creating what is a flower carpet. It is a true work of art with a different theme every year and incorporates flower petals of a range of colors.

Poster of procession at flower festival

The carpet extends down the middle of the street. Priests are allowed to walk on it, photographers snap shots, and people line up on both sides of the street.

AQUEDUCT

Portion of Roman Aqueduct, Spello

Our day was a delight and we were again with our “regular” guide Werner. He is a most versatile fellow with a keen eye for art and full of facts about the frescoes in the several churches we visited. We began with a walk along the Roman Aqueduct trail on the edge of Spello. We saw remains of the aqueduct and admired lovely olive trees with their small fruits. It was a quiet morning and the countryside peaceful—-only one couple and no cars.

Olive trees outside Spello

Before a long and delicious lunch, we wandered down the streets of Spello. Our guide wisely suggested the driver leave us at the top of the town to save us navigating the steep inclines. It was still early enough that there were more cars on the streets than pedestrians. Some alleyways had hooks left from when chains were pulled across to prevent horses from going down the alley. Narrow passage ways often had an enclosed arch at the top.

FRESCOES

Self portrait by artist Pictoricius

In one of the churches, we viewed some stunning frescoes by Bernardino de Betto, known as Pinturicchio, a painter during the Umbrian Renaissance. Note the depth of colors and the details.

Mary after Jesus’ birth
At the temple, detail

INDULGENT LUNCH

Lunch was at a wine cellar cum restaurant called Enoteca Properzio. We had a set menu and tasted four different local wines ranging from a robust white to a merlot/cabernet super Tuscan, an amorone, and then a red sagrantino dessert wine.

Winemaker & restaurant host

First was a plate with a tomato bruschetta and two slices of bread with different olive oils on them. The bruschetta was especially good!

Bruschetta plate

Then came homemade tagliolini with black truffles (yum!), followed by meatballs in tomato sauce and a small dish of salad greens, and finally some almond and chocolate biscotti.

It was a feast of local flavors and tastes, and we enjoyed it all!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Italy: Orvieto

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DUOMO DI ORVIETO

Yesterday we traveled from Rome to Perugia via Orvieto.  It was a pretty ride and a combination of winding country roads and some time on the highway.  We spent several hours in Orvieto, focusing mainly on the striking 14th century Duomo di Orvieto.  

This cathedral, unlike others of gray stone, has beautiful mosaics on the front façade. The side exterior walls and the inside have a striped appearance from alternating layers of white travertine and blackish basalt. 

Travertine & basalt on side walls
Mosaics on facade of Duomo di Orvieto

In style, this cathedral is Italian Gothic.  Dedicated to St. Mary, its history is related to transubstantiation, the transfer of the element of communion into the actual blood of Christ.   A traveling priest found that his Host was bleeding so much it stained the altar cloth.  This cloth is now stored in one of the cathedral’s chapels. 

 It is one of the most distinctive and loveliest large churches I’ve seen anywhere. It sits high on a volcanic or lava neck on a small piazza.

Column in duomo interior

We also stopped by the original church here. Orvieto was a poor town surrounded by farms and the church was small. It has been rebuilt to some extent, but the contrast between this building and the duomo funded by the Vatican is great.

Chiesa di Sant’Andrea with separate bell tower

PERUGIA

Cafe scene Perugia

From Orvieto, we went on to Perugia, capital of Umbria, where we will stay for several nights.  Here we enjoyed drinks at one café and then dinner at another, both in the center of the main thoroughfare. Compared to Rome, it was wonderfully calm and less touristy. At one end of the street were a crowd of people and some classic race cars; occasionally a low slung car rumbled by on one side.  

Locals and others strolled past and it was fun to people watch.  We even engaged with a young man masquerading as a cow.  We didn’t why, but he and his cohorts provided some entertainment. Later we learned it may have been part of a graduation exercise.

Young people on the street

FOOD

In Italy, almost all restaurants and cafes serve only Italian food.  Not other cuisines.  We’ve had several pizzas, ranging from good to so-so, and pasta dishes.  Most noteworthy for pasta for the Chief Penguin and me has been the tagliolini with truffles.  In one case, a mix of black and white truffles, and yesterday at lunch, pasta generously dressed with black truffles.  White ones are not fully in season yet.  

Our other treats were roast lamb or lamb cooked over a wood fire and gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce for the C.P.  I indulged in vitello tonnato, paper thin slices of veal covered with a tuna sauce (consistency of thin mayonnaise) topped with capers, and served cold.  I first had this dish in Rome more than 40 years ago and for me, it’s a must at least once every trip.  

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the piazza around the Duomo Di Orvieto.

Italy: Rome 1st Day

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ARRIVING

I always find the first day hard and long after flying the Atlantic. Our flight over was bumpy much of the way and true sleep eluded me.  The baggage claim was packed with people, but coming through passport control was somewhat simpler than in the past.  It was an hour from landing until we were in the car for the hour ride to our hotel.  Rome was sunny and bright, and the light on the yellow fall leaves breathtaking.  

Romans eat all day long

As expected, the room wasn’t ready, so we did the walk and wander routine around our neighborhood from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza del Popolo until it was an acceptable time for lunch.  Just before 12:30, early by Italian standards, but perfect for tourists.  The Chief Penguin tucked into a plate of fettuccine with porcini while I opted for the comfort of a risotto made with smoked provolone and Prosecco.  We ate at a leisurely pace, enjoying the outdoor scene around Alla Rampa in Piazza Mignanelli and timed our return to the hotel for when the room was ready.

AFTERNOON & EVENING

The Chief Penguin took a long walk to his favorite piazzas while I dozed a bit for an hour before we set out again.  Rome is packed with people, and I mean packed!  We were here four years ago at this same time and it wasn’t nearly as crowded.  But then, we know at least five couples who were to be in Italy at some point this month.  

Soft evening light

The evening light on the city’s amber, rose, tan, and cream buildings was soft and beautiful.  Dinner was at another restaurant café with outside seating, this one called Angie’s.  It is more casual than Alla Rampa with a less extensive menu.  We shared a mozzarella and prosciutto pizza, grilled vegetables (red peppers, zucchini and eggplant), and an apple tart along with some white wine. We retired early to be ready for another day in this city of narrow streets and intimate piazzas. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Tidy Tidbits: Watching and Eating

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VIEWING

Still (Apple TV+)

Michael J. Fox (The Hollywood Reporter)

This documentary about Michael J. Fox is ultimately a testament to one man’s steadfastness in the face of illness.  Michael J. Fox was a hot young TV star in the 1970’s who then branched out to movies.  He was funny, brash, and always in motion.  It seemed the world was his oyster, until.  As many know, he got a diagnosis of Parkinson’s Disease at 29, but kept it a secret from all but a few for a few years.  

The film traces his growing up years, his striving to achieve despite his short stature, his marriage to Tracy, and the births of his children.  Interspersed with his history are interview segments with him today at 61.  He speaks frankly about himself, his condition, and his career.  It’s a thoughtfully made film with occasional flashes of wit.  Highly recommended!

Walter Presents

I have recently become acquainted with several series offered by Walter Presents.  PBS Masterpiece is showing a few of them; I got curious about who and what Walter Presents is.  It is a curated collection of international TV programs from different countries and in a variety of languages with English subtitles.  Launched on the UK’s Channel 4 in 2016, it subsequently was offered in the U.S. and other countries.  The man behind the selections is Walter Iuzzolino.  Examples I’ve watched thus far include Astrid (French 2 seasons) and Murder in Sweden.

Murder in Sweden (PBS Masterpiece)

Sebastian & Maria (PBS)

Detective Maria Wern works alongside Sebastian, another detective, on a small crime squad on the island of Gotland.  Maria, a widow, is a complex person, hardworking, driven, and mother to two older boys.  She’s also reserved with her feelings.

The murder cases are difficult ones requiring teamwork, but occasionally Maria goes rogue in her zeal to solve them.  Her relationship with Sebastian is initially one of joking and bantering, but he would like more.  How their interactions evolve over the series adds depth and tenderness.

Each episode is in 2 parts and I just have access to one season. It’s in Swedish with subtitles.  Recommended!

SUPER SAVOR SARASOTA—DUVAL’S

Savor Sarasota is this city’s annual June dining out festival.  Participating restaurants offer special menus usually at a discounted price.  We dined at Duval’s downtown and had the best meal there ever and one that was superb in general.  With four courses at forty dollars, the menu offered two choices for each course.  

Interior of Duval’s (TripAdvisor.com)

The Chief Penguin and I started with the salmon spread on crostini for me, the excellent gazpacho for him; then a green salad for me and tuna poke for him.  We both selected the mahi piccata and the key lime pie as our entrée and dessert.  The mahi was a lovely presentation, a tasty piece of fish served over julienned carrots and other veggies.  And what’s not to like about key lime pie!  The Chief Penguin was delighted that it came topped with a layer of whipped cream and more on the side.  A glass of Chardonnay added to this wonderful meal!

Note: Header photo is the key lime pie at Duval’s from Facebook.