Category: Food

France: Dordogne

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ST. EMILION

Yesterday we left the Medoc region and headed east to Dordogne and a lovely B&B tucked in the valley outside St. Cybranet.  Our trip organizers presented us with several choices of stops along the way.  We took divided highways for the first hour.  Then, we decided, having skipped going into the city of Bordeaux, to go to St. Emilion (still in Bordeaux) and possibly have lunch there.  

St. Emilion is a name that is probably recognizable to wine drinkers since it produces very fine, notable wines. What I didn’t know previously, is that St. Emilion was granted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 1999, a first for a vineyard town. Legend has it that St. Emilion was founded by a monk who came in the 8th century, lived in a cave, and performed miracles. The town was then named for him.

In later years, lots of underground galleries and spaces were created. The St. Emilion of today is a town of multiple levels and extraordinarily beautiful medieval architecture. Plus the views out over the vineyards and toward neighboring towns are gorgeous.

Vineyards and beyond

It was a lovely mostly sunny warm day, and a Saturday.  It felt like half of France had the same idea!  As is often the case, getting into the old part of any of these historic towns and cities, involves a series of tight turns, narrow streets, and sometimes arches so narrow you think for sure the car will scrape the sides.  

We had the GPS for a specific parking area in St. Emilion, and Waze got us there.  Space after space was filled, people crowded the streets, and we kept going, about ready to give up, when lo, up ahead as we inched our way along the ramparts, we got the last parking space at the very end!  The Chief Penguin, now master of French ticketing machines, walked the short distance to get a ticket while I stayed with the unlocked car.  

Parking on the ramparts
Looking down on St. Emilion

He returned and we began a slow descent down into more of St. Emilion.  It’s a beautiful town built on many levels and we kept stopping to take photos.  There were people everywhere, as if a tour bus or two had just disgorged its passengers.  We stopped in a plaza and noted a beautiful hotel front and its restaurant, La Table de Pavie. Looking at the menu, the prix fixe was 220 euros per person, about the same in dollars at the current exchange rate. (Later research revealed this is Michelin two star restaurant.)  We walked on.  

Rooftops of St. Emilion

A restaurant and wine bar not far looked equally enticing and more affordable.  Seen through the window were lots of empty tables.  We walked in and inquired, and when the maitre d’ asked if we had a reservation, and we replied no, he suggested tomorrow.  Disappointing, since I wondered where all the people were to occupy those seats.  But, perhaps it was a matter of staffing, not so much lack of space for us.

FAST FOOD FRENCH STYLE

In desperation, we took another short gander around St. Emilion and then walked back up to the car and headed out of town.  On the lookout for some place to eat, perhaps a pizzeria, we spied a sign for a McDonald’s 3 kilometers away and headed there.  The French like McDonalds!  The parking lot was jammed, we found one open spot, and headed inside to join the crowd.  

We haven’t eaten in a fast food restaurant in probably 15 years at least.  This McD was high-tech.  You ordered and paid at a big kiosk, and then they delivered the food to your table in whatever zone number you had entered.  We had chicken on a bun that was actually quite good.  Later, we noticed that Caesar salads were also on the menu—not your old McDonald’s.

French couple ordering

WALNUTS AND STRAWBERRIES

Our latest B&B is not far from a castle at Castelnaud.  It’s located a bit south of Sarlat, the center of what’s known as Perigord Noir or Black Perigord for its dark forests and black truffles.  Our hosts, Richard and Philippe, warmly welcomed us with a refreshing glass of ginger sun tea. They have run this B&B for more than 20 years, and both have backgrounds in hotel management.  It’s clear from the level of hospitality that they know their business.  The house is an 18th century building with a pretty terrace and pool and a lovely view.  

Exterior of our B&B

Dinner was at their table with a very pleasant couple from Vancouver, British Columbia.  We started with an aperitif of walnut leaf wine (made by Richard) on their vine covered terrace.  Walnut trees and walnuts are a big deal in this area.  I had noted walnuts, noix, on some menus, but had yet to order any dishes with them. 

Richard is also the cook. The first course was a delicious pate with a small green salad.  Duck confit topped with mashed potatoes with green beans on the side made up the main plate.  I thought the duck was scrumptious.  Next came cheese (I was the only taker), followed by homemade strawberry sorbet and homemade shortbread.  Several varieties of strawberries are grown locally.  The sorbet was yummy!  Dinner, with local red wines, was a tasty re-introduction to the cuisine of Dordogne. We retired having been very well fed.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington except McDonald’s one (some rights reserved.)

France: More Medoc

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LUNCH IN ST. JULIEN

The St. Julien Restaurant was recommended by our trip organizers, and our host here also said how much she likes this place.  On the way in, who should we see entering in front of us, but our new acquaintances, Lisa and George.  Great palates dine alike, or something like that.  We were seated in in an attractive airy space with a view of the chef as were they.  

Beautifully de-boned sole

We ordered from the blackboard specials.  The Chief Penguin had sole meunière with small potatoes while I ordered the crevettes (whole shrimp in their shells) cooked with garlic and parsley in a butter sauce.  The crevettes required some work, but were worth the effort.  Rice with cumin came on the side. 

Crevettes
Raspberry dessert

 For dessert, Greg had a pretty raspberry tart, and I had the strawberry and raspberry soup with strawberry sorbet.  Crisp white wine was the perfect accompaniment to the fish and shrimp. Early on, the chef made the rounds of all the tables, shaking hands and greeting his guests.

DINNER TABLE D’HOTE

We opted to have dinner at our B&B last night, and given that it was steadily raining (much needed rain), we were glad we did.  Madeleine prepared an excellent veggie crumble (my new favorite dish) with tomatoes, shallots, and other vegetables seasoned with thyme and topped with Parmesan.  This was followed by cod with roast potatoes and braised chicory. Dessert was a fig clafoutis made from figs grown on their property.  And we had very local red or white wine to accompany the meal.  

Yvette and Dave from New Orleans were new guests who had arrived that morning in Paris, taken a noon train to Bordeaux, and then driven to the B&B.  Wow!  They are outgoing and very personable. We were interested that they too are France Just for You clients, and this is the second time they have used them.  They were very pleased with their first experience.

ENERGY, CLIMATE, & GASOLINE IN FRANCE

This morning we had an informative conversation with Madeleine about her plans for the winter and energy costs in France.  She is going to take a wait and see approach and would like to remain open through the winter, hoping for weekend guests or families perhaps coming at Christmas.  Both the B&B and her house have heat pump systems, but the house uses oil as the back-up fuel.  She commented that filling the tank recently cost 60% more than a year ago. She strongly believes we all need to be much more conservative about the energy we use.

She also noted that the summer’s drought and heat will have an impact on the vineyards.  The grape harvest will be smaller than usual, and it will take the skill of the vintner to create fine wines. Part of their property is a vineyard. They lease it out to someone who manages it and shares a certain number of the bottles produced with them.

This afternoon, we stopped at a supermarket gas station only to find a paper with the word, ”Rupture,” posted on the pumps.  No gas.  We then went to another supermarket station with cars waiting at each pump.  It was taking too long to figure out the subtleties of this set of pumps and which credit card it would accept, so we left. We have enough gas to get where we’re going tomorrow and will fill up somewhere else along the way. I should also note that we bought a few items in the first supermarket which was very dimly lit. At about 5:00 pm, they turned on the bright lights, perhaps a sign of saving on electricity use earlier in the day.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the chef at the St. Julien Restaurant.

France: San Malo & Meals

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We took a leisurely approach to Monday.  Breakfast was at its usual 8:30, but we didn’t go out until around 10:00.  This gave me time to finish up yesterday’s blog once the Wi-Fi was alive again. We made the short drive to San Malo, timed to arrive well before our lunch reservation at 12:00.

SAN MALO

San Malo waterfront

San Malo is a very old town in Brittany founded in the 1st century BC, a short distance away from its present location.  The people that lived in that original location moved to the rock of St-Malo when the Vikings raided. In the 12thcentury, Bishop Jean de Chatillon added solid ramparts around the city’s port area for defense.

The woman is a good reference point for the wall’s height

San Malo was heavily damaged during the Second World War. Over the past 30 years, it has been largely rebuilt and is thriving today.  On the water, it’s known for mussels and other seafood, and from here, you can take a ferry to the Channel Islands.  What makes it most distinctive for today’s visitors are the massive walls and several fine sandy beaches beyond the ramparts.  The Chief Penguin and I walked around the shopping streets before lunch and then explored more afterwards.

Entry to walled San Malo

The walls are pierced at intervals by arches.  Streets are narrow and occasionally steep.  Fortunately, some streets are pedestrian-only zones at certain times.  It’s also possible to climb a set of stairs and walk along the top of the ramparts which we did.  This gives you a different perspective on the port and the beaches below and allows you to look down on the street life below. 

Lively street scene from above

There are also a number of churches.  We went into the Saint Vincent Cathedral.  Partially destroyed in WWII, it was restored over almost 30 years.  Among its collection of stained glass windows are some striking simpler contemporary ones. 

Stained glass in St. Vincent Cathedral

LUNCH AT L’AMIRAL

L’Amiral is located on the waterfront in the maritime bourse building.  Here we had one of the best meals of this trip.  I had a lovely starter of small shrimp in a broth with shiitake mushrooms and bits of chorizo sausage. I could have easily eaten a main course portion!  The Chief Penguin had their delicate smoked salmon followed by a langoustine platter. I gave in to a desire for meat and had the veal chop cooked at a low temperature served with potatoes and a rich brown sauce.  For dessert, I had a layered cookie and cream with meringue on top while he had crème brûlée.  Service was friendly and professional.

Luscious shrimp starter
Langoustines to savor

FINDING DOL DE BRETAGNE

I booked dinner at the Hotel Bretagne in Dol Bretagne, about the only place open on a Monday.  To our surprise, the main road from us to Dol de Bretagne was blocked off and going to be for the next two days.  There was a Deviation (detour) sign, but no direction for the detour.  

We are using Waze for navigating, and it’s terrific.  When we turned around, Ms. Waze told us to take a left that didn’t look like a real road, so we kept going straight for some miles through a small village, while she kept telling us to turn right, turn right.  We finally turned around again, and this time took her advice on the tiny one lane road over a narrow bridge, then over RR tracks, across a field, and finally to a main road.  We eventually got into town, parked and walked to the hotel.

We were the first diners, but soon thereafter, several men alone, two other couples, and a mother with a young boy arrived.  Our starters of smoked salmon and shrimps were good, but the sole meunière was exceptional!  Very sweet and light. This was an unexpected treat.  Having had a substantial lunch, we passed on dessert.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

France: Bayeux, pt. 2

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DINNER IN BAYEUX

Last night we had a real dinner in a modern restaurant in an old building in Bayeux.  Only the second restaurant dinner this trip.  La Quarante Neuf was recommended by our trip organizers.  And our B&B hostess said we’d made a good choice.  Our reservation was for 7:00 pm, the minute they opened, and we were surprised when all seven tables in the main dining room filled up immediately—and not just with Americans!

The menu is presented on a large portable blackboard and is French with some Asian accents.  We opted for three courses, entrée, plat, and dessert.  I had the deconstructed tomato cooked several different ways first which was delectable, and the Chief Penguin had the rillettes.  

Deconstructed tomato

We each then had fish.  Mine was cod with fennel and black lentils in a grapefruit broth with sections of pink grapefruit, while he had the half-cooked tuna.  

Cod with fennel and grapefruit

The dishes were creative and imaginative and tasty.  For dessert, we shared my cheese selection and then his chocolate mini cake with chocolate ice cream.  The chef, a woman, came out to greet us, and we were able to sing our praises to her.

THE TAPESTRY & MORE

Today was a day spent mostly on foot.  We parked in the usual lot at the train station and then walked to find the tapestry museum, using the towering cathedral as a navigation aid.  The Bayeux Tapestry depicts the story of William, Duke of Normandy’s conquest of England in 1066 and is a hand embroidered piece of art that is almost 230 feet long.  The original, which used to reside in the Bayeux Cathedral, is mounted on a curved wall behind glass. The audio guide, included in the admission price, is essential to appreciating the events shown.  The various scenes from King Edward naming William as his heir to the end of the battle are numbered. The guide narrates what is happening and points out subtleties one might miss.  I found it fascinating and a great way to experience this famous tapestry.  

First scene with King Edward
Nearing the end of the battle

A bonus was seeing the special exhibit, David Hockney’s A Year in Normandy. Hockney was enamored of the tapestry and also fond of this region in France.  He decided to create a parallel work of art, also a long mural, showing the changing seasons in Normandy from spring through summer and fall ending with winter.  

I liked the hay rolls and the straight trees
One image of fall in Normandy

An artist who delights in trying out new techniques and approaches, Hockney created his work by drawing on his iPad using a program called Brushes.  The result is a marvelous progression of images employing lots of bright greens and yellows with fuchsia and lavender accents.  The Chief Penguin and I were especially pleased to see this work since we met Hockney some years ago in Los Angeles when an exhibit of his work was being installed.

BAYEUX CATHEDRAL

The Bayeux Cathedral is striking for its two Romanesque towers and its soaring and elaborate Gothic one.  The original church was consecrated in 1077, and William the Conquerer was present.  Only the two older towers, the first level of the nave, and the crypt remain from the Romanesque building.  

Bayeux Cathedral

The sanctuary that one sees today is the result of rebuilding in the 12th century and later after it was damaged. It is soaring Gothic with flying buttresses and clerestory windows and stunning stained glass windows.

Brilliant windows

MUSEUM OF THE BATTLE OF NORMANDY

To round out the day, we walked to visit the Museum of the Battle of Normandy after lunch.  Lots of exhibits with lots of text and photos and profiles of important generals, along with tanks and other machinery of war, make this a museum for anyone interested in the fine structure of this historic battle.  We only spent a short amount of time here, but it was still worth visiting.

THE PERFECT LUNCH

Wandering around historic Bayeux near the cathedral, we noted several possible lunch options ranging from simple crepes to probably heavier Norman cuisine to the little place we selected.  Le P’tit Resto was perfect in every way:  the right amount of food, the right price, welcoming wait staff, and a delicious meal.  We both had the Formule du Jour, menu of the day, and chose the fish preparation with either fries or rice. 

Couldn’t resist sampling before I took the photo!

 The main course was preceded by a small shot glass of veggie cappuccino and followed by either two cheeses or a presentation of little desserts.  We both selected the cheese which was Camembert and Pont-l’Eveque  with a little salad.  With this menu, you also had your choice of a glass of wine (small) or café. 

Cheese course

Note: All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).