Category: Food

Dublin: Walking, Day 2

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Yesterday we were on our own all day and feeling restored from a good night’s sleep, we walked and walked and explored some of the streets and lanes on both sides of the river, crossing and re-crossing over several bridges.

Bridge over the Liffey River

Our hotel is on the south side of the River Liffey. This area is popular for its smart shops, cafes and restaurants. The north side is less touristy, and parts of it are attracting more visitors. We will probably explore the north side more in depth tomorrow. We did briefly go into the Irish Emigration Museum.

Exterior of Irish Emigration Museum

ARCHITECTURE AND PARKS

I love the clean lines of the Georgian buildings that remain and their different colored doors. We walked to Merrion Square Park and admired the Georgian structures that surround it. It’s smaller than St. Stephen’s Green Park and attracts many more locals to the picnic tables, to the wide expanse of lawn (one man’s dog had great fun running after and retrieving a ball, over and over again), and to the few long benches.

Throughout Dublin, there are formal statues to famous and not as famous people, mostly all men. Here on the edge of Merrion Square Park is a casual statue of Oliver Wilde resting against a large boulder. It’s a striking contrast to the other statues we’ve seen.

Oscar Wilde sculpture in Merrion Square Park

Doors on the Georgian buildings are often painted shades of blue or red, but I also noted yellow doors, green doors, and even a couple pink ones.

Door on a Georgian building

DINING FROM SIMPLE TO SOPHISTICATED

For lunch, we ended up at Peter’s Pub and Snug on South William Street. I think we were actually seated in the snug, a back area a bit away from the front of the establishment. There were small round tables in front of a long banquette with low stools opposite. The three bar men we interacted with were all very pleasant. Between us we ordered the smoked salmon plate (Chief Penguin), ham and cheese sandwich on white toast, and a little cheese plate. The Chief Penguin tried a pint of a local stout. It was simple fare, but easily satisfied us.

Salmon plate at Peter’s Pub

Dinner was at The Pig’s Ear, a contemporary Irish restaurant recommended by friends and a guide book. If you were able to climb the steep narrow staircase, you were welcomed at the door and ushered into an airy space with a wood floor and simple wooden tables and black chairs. We had a lovely table by the window, and I could watch the buses and pedestrians on the street below. We ordered two courses each. But first we began with green olives and some brandade with little potato chips (that is, crisps.)

The CP had smoked salmon in a citrus broth while I started with lovely little scallops and a cauliflower floret. Main courses were cod for the gentleman and free range chicken with hen of the woods mushroom and a bit of Bernaise sauce and black garlic on the side for me. Service was friendly and efficient and, it was a tasty dining experience.

Scallops and cauliflower on a red plate

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Manhattan: Cooking & Dining Around

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MOMENTOUS MOMENT

This has been a dramatic week with the leak of the Supreme Court’s draft opinion upending Roe v. Wade.  For many of us who were of age in 1973, contemplating a return to when abortion is no longer a legal right/option is positively medieval. It feels so very wrong.  Pro-choice protests erupted in cities near and far.  This one we noted in Union Square.

Union Square protesters

FUN WITH KIDS IN THE KITCHEN

Our granddaughters have both developed an interest in cooking and baking.  After school one afternoon, the 6-year-old and I, at her request, made mini-muffin pancake bites from the latest issue of Highlights High Five.  F knew where all the necessary ingredients were along with the essential mixing bowl, measuring cups, and muffin tin.  She scurried around to assemble them and kept a close eye on the oven gauge as it proceeded to preheat to 350.  

As we began the mixing process, she reported every few minutes, “It’s at 350 Fahrenheit, Grandma,” and then, “It’s still at 350 Fahrenheit,” always precisely including the word Fahrenheit.  The mini muffins use pancake mix as the base with the addition of the requisite milk and eggs and then some cut up blueberries and strawberries.  Once baked, they were served with maple syrup for dipping.  A sweet success!

Mini-muffin bites

Her older sister, E is becoming an accomplished cook.  Her current bible is Melissa Clark’s Kid in the Kitchen, and she has already tried several recipes.  The other evening, she boiled the pasta and made a sauce of cherry tomatoes, olive oil, and slivers of garlic.  After adding the sauce to the pasta, it was topped with dollops of ricotta cheese along with fresh basil and mint.  Delectable and a pretty dish besides!  The Chief Penguin and I were eager tasters for both creations!

Fusilli with cherry tomato sauce & fresh basil and mint

DINING AROUND—MOSTLY FISH

Seamore’s

Seamore’s on the Upper East Side is the newest location of a local restaurant chain.  It’s an airy, two-level space with white walls and light wood tables.  A blackboard on one wall outlines the shape and characteristics of some of the fish they serve.  Once we were seated at a fine table (we rejected the hostess’ initial attempt to seat us in the back next to the restrooms), we were pleased with our friendly waitress and the very good service.  

Since we’d had a large lunch, we stuck to the smaller items on the menu.  Between us ordered the fried cauliflower appetizer, clam chowder, and the shrimp tacos on corn tortillas. A place to return to with an appetite!

Avra Madison Estiatorio

Friends introduced us to this upscale Greek seafood and fish restaurant.  It has one of the most beautiful outside dining areas.  Inside is an expansive two-level space with lots of activity and noise on the main bar level.  Fortunately, we were seated downstairs where the tables were set apart, and we could easily converse.  

Whole fish is their specialty, and the prices reflect that.  We shared a bunch of appetizers: zucchini chips, spreads, and hummus, and we all ordered the fish of the day which was fillets of dorade accompanied by roasted Brussels sprouts.  Everything was delicious.  This is a great place for special occasions and expense account dining!

Disappointing Reprise

Tue Thai Food used to be a favorite West Village spot for an inexpensive lunch.  We hadn’t been back since pre-Covid and were desirous of the same good food.  This time the curries were thin and watery and somewhat bland, while the whole ambience was shabbier than we remembered.  We wonder if they have a new chef or if a lack of business has made them lax.  

Granddaughters, Fun & Food

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GOOD TIMES WITH OUR GRANDDAUGHTERS

Our granddaughters, Eleanor and Frances, had not been to Florida since February 2020 just before Covid. That year we celebrated Frances’ March birthday (she would turn 4) super early with a heart-shaped, pink-frosted cake.  The Chief Penguin, aka Grandpa, is the resident baker and works his wonders to create memorable birthday desserts.

This year, the weather was lovely and sunny all but one day, and the girls frolicked for hours, and hours, in the pool. They became quite good swimmers last summer and refreshed their water skills while having oodles of fun.  F dove for rings and swam underwater. Using a pink (what other color is there!) noodle, she created a mini zipline effect on the pool stairs railing.  E jumped in the deep end, swam across the pool, and had timed races with her dad to see how fast she could swim.  

Besides the appeal of the water, there was the matter of food.  F loves strawberries and cherry tomatoes!  She devoured a couple of pints of each.  E, an increasingly accomplished baker and cook, loves all kinds of cheese, and helped with meal preparations and making pancakes, all with the occasional assist from Frances.  It not being Maine, these pancakes were made special with the addition of mini chocolate chips.  

The entire family likes pasta, so noodles and penne were featured in several dinners along with turkey chili, Italian Sunday sauce, and sauteed shrimp.  Going to Tide Tables Restaurant, a cozy spot on the water with inside and outside dining, is a tradition so, one day we braved the crowds to arrive for an early dinner.  Despite what was a packed parking lot, the elapsed time between arriving there, parking, waiting with drinks, and being escorted to a table was just 30 minutes!  The staff deserve credit for efficiently organizing the whole process.  

This is a family all of whom love clams.  Lunch at the Cortez Clam Factory on Saturday fit the bill.  A cousin visiting from Colorado joined us, and we were able to sit outside on the patio.  While only one person ordered clams, the brisket Reuben, Cuban sandwich, shrimp, and fried haddock were very tasty.  A true success!

On the home front, there were several opportunities for tennis, the girls and I kicked around a soccer ball, we did a fish puzzle, and we read books together and silently.  The girls also played with a favorite dollhouse plus blocks, Legos, and Calico Critters.  And we made time for going to Sarasota with a look at the boats in the marina and visits to two shops.

Reading on the stairs
Enjoying a book of jokes!

For the finale, we celebrated Frances’ upcoming 6th birthday with a unicorn-themed cake and cupcakes made by you know who.  It was a magical visit, full of fun for all of us!

Special birthday cake and cupcakes

SARASOTA TREATS

Most of my regular readers know that I am passionate about two stores in downtown Sarasota.  One is Artisan Cheese Company located in the Rosemary District and source of an array of cheddar, Swiss, Camembert, and other delectable cheeses from here and abroad.  The shop also sells distinctive butters and crackers, chocolates, Rancho Gordo beans, and unusual condiments plus homemade soups and delicate feta from Lesbos, Greece.  

My other favorite is Bookstore1Sarasota, a marvelous independent bookstore with a great selection and a very helpful staff.  They are now in a new location on Pineapple St. in The Mark, a new condominium building.  The shop is spacious and attractive with big windows and a colorful tropical flower graphic naming the sections.  From Staff Picks to the latest in fiction and nonfiction plus classics and books for kids, it’s fun to browse.  I always find at least one new title to buy!  There’s also have an upstairs area for events which might include a café at some point.  Both stores are worth the trip!

SOPHISTICATED DINING IN BRADENTON

Chateau 13

Chateau 13, in our opinion, still serves the best, most sophisticated cuisine in the area.  At a recent dinner there, the Chief Penguin and I were re-impressed with the caliber of service (the bread plates even came with a bread-and-butter knife, almost unheard of these days!) and the food.  We indulged in historic Champagne cocktails followed by the charcuterie cheese plate for the Chief Penguin and the French Caesar salad for me.  He then had the salmon rillette salad and the stuffed piquillo pepper appetizer while I savored the salmon en croute.  To top it off, we shared an order of truffle fries, but no dessert.  Everything was delicious!    

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington. Header graphic courtesy localjaw.com

Just Food: Philadelphia & New York

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TRAIN TRAVEL

Earlier this week, we took Amtrak from the new Moynihan Train Hall to 30th Street Station in Philadelphia.  Constructed within the classic old Farley Post Office building, the Moynihan Train Hall is stunning and beautiful!  So new, it’s pristine and spacious with elegant arching struts and the occasional wash of magenta light.  

The train schedule boards are both numerous and easy to read.  The ticketed waiting room has both counter height seating with outlets for those who want to work and rounded soft benches.  It’s a long space with restrooms at either end.  My only quibble with the whole experience of departing and arriving is that the basement connections to the subway lines and Times Square need better wayfinding signage.  We made it work and got to Line 1, but not without some to-ing and fro-ing.  

LUNCH ON RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

Street near Rittenhouse Square

After Manhattan, the sidewalks of Philadelphia, as we walked from 30th Street Station (a grand station in its own right), seemed quiet and mostly empty of pedestrians.  The Rittenhouse Square area, on the other hand, was lively, and Parc, where we had lunch, a beehive of activity.  This French bistro has an attractive outdoor structure.  We had a lovely table and made our choices from a very appealing menu.  Our friend had mussels and tarte tatin while the Chief Penguin ordered tuna carpaccio followed by chicken paillard and then the baba au rhum.  I began with a sinfully rich celeriac soup topped with truffle duxelles followed by a warm shrimp salad.  The butterflied shrimp were perfectly cooked and set on a puddle of lemon beurre blanc alongside mixed greens with avocado.  It was delectable! And fun for us to be back in this familiar city.

MANHATTAN MEALS

Salt Mediterranean

Salt, a new Turkish/Mediterranean restaurant on the Upper East Side, opened several months ago.  We believe it inhabits the space left by one of our old favorites, El Porron, a tapas place.  Thinking that might be a good omen, we chatted outside with the owner one evening and decided to return for a meal.

Mostly, we were delighted with all the dishes we ordered.  The Turkish salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, and walnuts was done chopped style and was simply delicious!  The lamb kebab with rice and greens was also excellent as were the baklava squares and the delicate almond pudding.  The only slight disappointment was the manti, meat-filled tiny pasta bites in a yogurt sauce.  We first had this dish in San Francisco at Troya, a neighborhood favorite, and then at A La Turku here in Manhattan. This version was a bit too doughy so the meat inside got lost.

Tri Dim Shanghai

We’re grateful to our co-grandparents for introducing us to Tri Dim Shanghai several months ago.  This spacious Chinese restaurant is a welcoming venue for lunch, dinner, or takeout.  We returned for lunch and were delighted with the Peking duck spring roll, the hot and sour soup, and the barbecued spareribs.  Leaning toward the tried and true, we ordered kung pao chicken which, while labeled spicy on the menu, seemed to have been dumbed down for Americans.  With the addition of some chili oil, it was tasty!  A Tsingtao beer completed the menu.  Next time we’ll explore other dishes. 

SWEET TREATS

William Greenburg Desserts

To top off a meal or just a long afternoon walk, the black and white cookies at William Greenberg are a must! Fancy cakes and sticky cinnamon rolls also fill their cases.

TABLE TALK

How often do you talk with strangers?  Recently, we had two engaging conversations with nearby diners.  The first was at the very popular, family friendly Tony’s di Napoli.  A lined slightly rumpled dark-haired woman at the next table smiled at us and asked us where we were from.  Later, she commented that we looked tanned and that the young woman with her was her granddaughter.  They had spent the day shopping, gone to lunch, and now were having dinner.  We heard about the achievements of her successful grandchildren and the arrival of her first great grandchild.  Slowly, the granddaughter warmed up a bit.  She is a student at Baruch College, and the Chief Penguin was able to tell her we know her president, a former dean at Lehigh.  A connection.

Last evening at Sel et Poivre, our comfort food French restaurant, two women had the table next to us.  The more voluble one announced, all in the same breath, that she had had her Covid booster that day and had just turned 80!  From that followed a lively conversation about her late husband, a literary agent for Steven King, and her accomplished extended family. Then, could I recommend a book to read.  Having just finished Great Circle, which I loved, I told her about it. 

Somehow, I mentioned having lived in Bethlehem. The second woman said her grandson was a freshman at Lehigh!  That led to more conversation about our past life in Bethlehem, the Lehigh campus, the upcoming inauguration of Lehigh’s new president, and where we stayed in Manhattan and why.  The first woman spends six months of the year in Venice, Florida, and the other woman knows a staff member at our granddaughters’ school.  More connections.  The whole experience made our evening memorable. And, since I gave her my card with the book title on it, I wouldn’t be surprised to hear from woman #1 in Florida!

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).