France: Castles & Gardens

Today we explored more of Dordogne with a visit to a castle, hanging gardens, and the medieval city of Sarlat. 

MILANDES IN CASTELNAUD

In this area of France, it seems you are never far from a castle or chateau, to use the French word.  In a small radius from our B&B, there are at least four chateaus, most of which we’ve seen from a distance, if not up close.  Milandes was a chateau we had not heard of previously.  On our hosts’ Richard and Philippe’s recommendation, we started there.

Josephine Baker, an American singer, dancer and actress, was born in 1906 and came of age in the 1920’s and 30’s. As a Black woman who was not widely accepted, she left the U.S. for France.  Here, she was warmly welcomed and had a very successful career.  In later years, she also performed in New York and elsewhere.  

Milandes is the 15^th century chateau she owned for 30 years.  Baker lived and raised her twelve adopted children here.  But she was more than just a performer. During the Second World War, she served in the French military carrying encrypted messages in her sheet music.  In her post-war years, she actively fought against racism.

Her chateau, which was much restored during the 19^th century with formal gardens added in the 20^th, is stately and beautiful.  The Chief Penguin and I thoroughly enjoyed both the grounds and touring the interior rooms, everything from the huge kitchen to children’s bedrooms to Baker’s dressing room.  All are furnished, and there are mementos and photos from her long career. (Photos not allowed inside.)  The air was lovely so we ended with croque monsieurs for lunch outside at the brasserie.

MARQUEYSSAC

Planted around a 17^th century chateau, the Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac have been owned by the same family since 1692.   A series of winding paths and walkways stretch linearly for a kilometer from the level of the chateau to a belvedere which is almost 400 feet above the river.     Along the way, the views of the Dordogne Valley are stunning.  In the distance, you can see castles and a fort ranging from Castelnaud to Beynac to Roque Gageac.   The paths are lined with boxwood hedges and boxwood topiary.

After you park, there is a somewhat steep walkway up to the entrance gate.  Once inside, you have your choice of several different walks, one of which is flat, the others being hilly.  We walked some, marveling at the views across the valley and also checked out the chateau and tea garden.  Some of the rooms in the chateau are lightly furnished.  The thousands of boxwoods that add to the beauty and fragrance of the paths were added in the 19^th century by Julien de Cerval. Cerval made other improvements to the property as well.

RETURN TO SARLAT

More than 40 years ago, the Chief Penguin and I spent part of a day in Sarlat. We came on market day, wandered around the stalls, and then savored lunch outside in one of the squares.  Sarlat is one of the best preserved and most beautiful 14^th century towns anywhere.  Its cobblestoned streets and narrow passageways are both inviting and intriguing.  Scores of restaurants are tucked in and around these winding ways.  It is hard not to eat well here. 

 Specialities are foie gras, truffles, duck confit, cassoulet, and more.  Our lunch that day included foie gras, of course, and their famous pommes sardalaises, potatoes cooked in duck or goose fat with garlic and parsley.  I don’t recall the rest of the meal, but it was deliciously memorable!

Yesterday, we weren’t in need of a meal, so we just strolled noting the shops for truffles and wine and the many restaurants and cafes, almost wishing we were hungry.  We stopped at two war memorials. A gentle rain was falling, few people were out, and it was strangely peaceful.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the garden at Milandes.