France: Dordogne

ST. EMILION

Yesterday we left the Medoc region and headed east to Dordogne and a lovely B&B tucked in the valley outside St. Cybranet.  Our trip organizers presented us with several choices of stops along the way.  We took divided highways for the first hour.  Then, we decided, having skipped going into the city of Bordeaux, to go to St. Emilion (still in Bordeaux) and possibly have lunch there.  

St. Emilion is a name that is probably recognizable to wine drinkers since it produces very fine, notable wines. What I didn’t know previously, is that St. Emilion was granted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 1999, a first for a vineyard town. Legend has it that St. Emilion was founded by a monk who came in the 8th century, lived in a cave, and performed miracles. The town was then named for him.

In later years, lots of underground galleries and spaces were created. The St. Emilion of today is a town of multiple levels and extraordinarily beautiful medieval architecture. Plus the views out over the vineyards and toward neighboring towns are gorgeous.

It was a lovely mostly sunny warm day, and a Saturday.  It felt like half of France had the same idea!  As is often the case, getting into the old part of any of these historic towns and cities, involves a series of tight turns, narrow streets, and sometimes arches so narrow you think for sure the car will scrape the sides.  

We had the GPS for a specific parking area in St. Emilion, and Waze got us there.  Space after space was filled, people crowded the streets, and we kept going, about ready to give up, when lo, up ahead as we inched our way along the ramparts, we got the last parking space at the very end!  The Chief Penguin, now master of French ticketing machines, walked the short distance to get a ticket while I stayed with the unlocked car.  

He returned and we began a slow descent down into more of St. Emilion.  It’s a beautiful town built on many levels and we kept stopping to take photos.  There were people everywhere, as if a tour bus or two had just disgorged its passengers.  We stopped in a plaza and noted a beautiful hotel front and its restaurant, La Table de Pavie. Looking at the menu, the prix fixe was 220 euros per person, about the same in dollars at the current exchange rate. (Later research revealed this is Michelin two star restaurant.)  We walked on.  

A restaurant and wine bar not far looked equally enticing and more affordable.  Seen through the window were lots of empty tables.  We walked in and inquired, and when the maitre d’ asked if we had a reservation, and we replied no, he suggested tomorrow.  Disappointing, since I wondered where all the people were to occupy those seats.  But, perhaps it was a matter of staffing, not so much lack of space for us.

FAST FOOD FRENCH STYLE

In desperation, we took another short gander around St. Emilion and then walked back up to the car and headed out of town.  On the lookout for some place to eat, perhaps a pizzeria, we spied a sign for a McDonald’s 3 kilometers away and headed there.  The French like McDonalds!  The parking lot was jammed, we found one open spot, and headed inside to join the crowd.  

We haven’t eaten in a fast food restaurant in probably 15 years at least.  This McD was high-tech.  You ordered and paid at a big kiosk, and then they delivered the food to your table in whatever zone number you had entered.  We had chicken on a bun that was actually quite good.  Later, we noticed that Caesar salads were also on the menu—not your old McDonald’s.

WALNUTS AND STRAWBERRIES

Our latest B&B is not far from a castle at Castelnaud.  It’s located a bit south of Sarlat, the center of what’s known as Perigord Noir or Black Perigord for its dark forests and black truffles.  Our hosts, Richard and Philippe, warmly welcomed us with a refreshing glass of ginger sun tea. They have run this B&B for more than 20 years, and both have backgrounds in hotel management.  It’s clear from the level of hospitality that they know their business.  The house is an 18^th century building with a pretty terrace and pool and a lovely view.  

Dinner was at their table with a very pleasant couple from Vancouver, British Columbia.  We started with an aperitif of walnut leaf wine (made by Richard) on their vine covered terrace.  Walnut trees and walnuts are a big deal in this area.  I had noted walnuts, noix, on some menus, but had yet to order any dishes with them. 

Richard is also the cook. The first course was a delicious pate with a small green salad.  Duck confit topped with mashed potatoes with green beans on the side made up the main plate.  I thought the duck was scrumptious.  Next came cheese (I was the only taker), followed by homemade strawberry sorbet and homemade shortbread.  Several varieties of strawberries are grown locally.  The sorbet was yummy!  Dinner, with local red wines, was a tasty re-introduction to the cuisine of Dordogne. We retired having been very well fed.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington except McDonald’s one (some rights reserved.)