France: Hills of Provence

STAYING NEAR LE BARROUX

Back of house with dining room

Our current B&B, Ferme des Belugues, is a gorgeous property nestled in the hills outside the village of Le Barroux with views toward the Dentelle Mountains.

Note the cypress trees

It’s formerly a farm, and the house exists on two levels with an addition on the upper level that has private entrance accommodations for guests.  There’s also a separate common sitting and kitchen area for guests with spaces earmarked for each room.  

Addition with guest entrances

 Our hosts, Karen and Spencer, are British.  They left their jobs in the corporate world in London in 2015 and created a new life here in Provence.  They both like to hike and cycle and often their B&B guests are groups of cyclists. 

The setting is very quiet and peaceful, and our room airy with a most comfortable bed and two big upholstered chairs. Outside each room is a round metal table and chairs. Breakfast each morning has included croissants of our choice, French bread, juice, and a plate of ham, salami, and cheese.  We are Karen and Spencer’s last guests this year, but this has not diminished in any way the welcome or the hospitality they have shown us! With her lilting voice, Karen reminds us fondly of our friend Rebecca.

DINING IN CAROMB

Based on the recommendations of France Just for You and Karen, we had dinner at two very different restaurants in Caromb.  This nearby town of 3,000 residents has a pleasant main shopping street with a small produce market (source of several clementines), tabac, pharmacy, wine bar, butcher, and the aforementioned restaurants.  The first night we dined at Le 6 a Table, an upscale gourmet restaurant whose chef has received some attention from Michelin.  The dining area near the bar is industrial style in shades of gray and white.  Our meal was excellent.  The Chief Penguin had a scallop starter while I had a zucchini blossom stuffed with cod.  Our main dishes were the lamb confit topped with squash for CP and red mullet over veggies.  The lamb was sweet and tender and the fish delicate. Desserts were grapefruit and sorbet for me and the cheese plate for him.

Scallops with blini
Zucchini blossom on tomato

Last night we opted for the casual, family run bistro called 156.  The son, who said he is a singer first of all, let us into the restaurant a few minutes early where we ordered glasses of wine.  He told us the cook would arrive at seven—his mother.  Meanwhile, his father was scurrying around getting things in order.  Quickly, the small space filled with locals. From the blackboard menu, we ordered  prosciutto to share and then each had the gnocchi a la Gorgonzola. (We’re now in a part of France where the Italian influence is evident, both in pizzerias and Italian dishes.) 

 Simple comfort food followed by the brioche dessert, pain perdu (lost bread aka French toast) topped with ice cream for the Chief Penguin.  This meal was as satisfying and good as the one the night before.

Bowl of gnocchi with prosciutto

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

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