We took a leisurely approach to Monday. Breakfast was at its usual 8:30, but we didn’t go out until around 10:00. This gave me time to finish up yesterday’s blog once the Wi-Fi was alive again. We made the short drive to San Malo, timed to arrive well before our lunch reservation at 12:00.
SAN MALO
San Malo is a very old town in Brittany founded in the 1st century BC, a short distance away from its present location. The people that lived in that original location moved to the rock of St-Malo when the Vikings raided. In the 12thcentury, Bishop Jean de Chatillon added solid ramparts around the city’s port area for defense.
San Malo was heavily damaged during the Second World War. Over the past 30 years, it has been largely rebuilt and is thriving today. On the water, it’s known for mussels and other seafood, and from here, you can take a ferry to the Channel Islands. What makes it most distinctive for today’s visitors are the massive walls and several fine sandy beaches beyond the ramparts. The Chief Penguin and I walked around the shopping streets before lunch and then explored more afterwards.
The walls are pierced at intervals by arches. Streets are narrow and occasionally steep. Fortunately, some streets are pedestrian-only zones at certain times. It’s also possible to climb a set of stairs and walk along the top of the ramparts which we did. This gives you a different perspective on the port and the beaches below and allows you to look down on the street life below.
There are also a number of churches. We went into the Saint Vincent Cathedral. Partially destroyed in WWII, it was restored over almost 30 years. Among its collection of stained glass windows are some striking simpler contemporary ones.
LUNCH AT L’AMIRAL
L’Amiral is located on the waterfront in the maritime bourse building. Here we had one of the best meals of this trip. I had a lovely starter of small shrimp in a broth with shiitake mushrooms and bits of chorizo sausage. I could have easily eaten a main course portion! The Chief Penguin had their delicate smoked salmon followed by a langoustine platter. I gave in to a desire for meat and had the veal chop cooked at a low temperature served with potatoes and a rich brown sauce. For dessert, I had a layered cookie and cream with meringue on top while he had crème brûlée. Service was friendly and professional.
FINDING DOL DE BRETAGNE
I booked dinner at the Hotel Bretagne in Dol Bretagne, about the only place open on a Monday. To our surprise, the main road from us to Dol de Bretagne was blocked off and going to be for the next two days. There was a Deviation (detour) sign, but no direction for the detour.
We are using Waze for navigating, and it’s terrific. When we turned around, Ms. Waze told us to take a left that didn’t look like a real road, so we kept going straight for some miles through a small village, while she kept telling us to turn right, turn right. We finally turned around again, and this time took her advice on the tiny one lane road over a narrow bridge, then over RR tracks, across a field, and finally to a main road. We eventually got into town, parked and walked to the hotel.
We were the first diners, but soon thereafter, several men alone, two other couples, and a mother with a young boy arrived. Our starters of smoked salmon and shrimps were good, but the sole meunière was exceptional! Very sweet and light. This was an unexpected treat. Having had a substantial lunch, we passed on dessert.
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)
