Category: France

France: Getting to Paris

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GETTING TO THE STATION

On Thursday, we took the TGV, high-speed train from Aix to Paris.  It’s a three hour journey.  This train travels at speeds from 150 to 180 mph and the countryside whizzes by. Being on the train was the relaxed part of this trip.  Getting here, getting rid of the rental car and waiting in the station were more of challenge.  

The TGV Gare is outside Aix so you drive into and around the city on its circular roads and then drive some distance into the country on a divided highway.  Exiting, the entire side of the road was lined with parked cars.  The closer we got to the station, the more cars there were parked everywhere you looked and in the official parking areas.  After driving into a paid lot we didn’t want and exiting without having to pay, we finally found the signs to the rental car drop off lots. Enterprise/National was at the far end, but  we took care of the details and schlepped our luggage to the modern all glass station built in 2001.  We were relieved that our train was to depart from the closer track, so we didn’t have to lug the luggage upstairs and down to the other side of the track.

RESTROOMS

When I was growing up, women and girls had to pay a nickel to use public restrooms.  As I recall, boys and men got in free. That changed a long time ago in the U.S., but in some European countries, there is still a charge for public restrooms, particularly in train stations.  

The cost here, after you entered the sliding glass doors (they read, “2 the loo”), was one euro, about a dollar.  Hard to believe.  The credit card reader was out of service, so you had to have a coin.  I watched lots of women and some men enter, look surprised (although there is a sign outside), and then fumble for change.  The young woman staff member occasionally took pity on a poor soul without the coin and let them through the turnstile. You even got a paper receipt, good for a tiny discount on a drink or other purchase. I will admit the restroom was clean, but nonetheless…

WAITING TO BOARD

About an hour before we departed, a siren sound came over the loudspeaker.  Then a voice said, first in French which I understood, then in English followed by Spanish, German, and Italian, that because of a “glitch in the building” (the English translation), everyone was to evacuate the building by the nearest emergency exit.  We hesitated as few people seemed to be moving; then there being no EXIT signs, the CP went looking and discovered the front station entrance was the exit.  We went out and joined others.  The time outside was short and, relieved, we went back inside.

ON THE TRAIN AND ARRIVING

Nothing but good things to say here.  Quiet train, comfortable seats and an on-time arrival at Gare de Lyon in Paris.  The food from the café car was nothing special, but it was something to eat.  

There was a bit of confusion meeting our cab driver at the station (he wasn’t where he was supposed to be), but eventually we found him and were on our way to Hotel St. Paul Rive Gauche, a boutique hotel not far from the Luxembourg Gardens.  Our room has lovely flowered wallpaper and a most comfortable bed.  It’s small as hotel rooms here are. (We’ve been spoiled by the spacious rooms in our various B&Bs.) The hotel is near lots of small restaurants and close to Notre Dame which we walked to before dinner.

Possibly will be ready to re-open in 2024

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

France: Provencal Villages

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Yesterday and today we took a relaxed approach and each day went for lunch and a wander in a small town.  We were sorry this morning to leave our B&B in Avignon, our longest stay.  It was a lovely setting, our hosts were super, and the accommodations met all our requirements!

ST. REMY DE PROVENCE

Flags on city hall

St. Remy is about a 30 minute drive from Avignon, and it made a nice outing.  St. Remy is located at the foot of  the Massif des Alpilles Natural Park with these low mountains as its backdrop.  The town is noted as the birthplace of Nostradamus, an astrologer, physician, and seer.  It’s also where Vincent Van Gogh lived for a year.  In our later wandering, we stopped to read a few informational signs at spots Van Gogh painted. 

Umbrellas, church spire, & monument

Waze includes parking lots in its database, and you can always ask to be routed to a parking area near your destination.  We parked the car (on a very narrow street as it turned out, not the designated lot) and then walked around a bit before lunch at Rose des Sables.  This restaurant advertised Mediterranean cuisine which sounded like a welcome change from all the traditional French dishes.  It was!  We thoroughly enjoyed our chicken citron confit and my couscous dish with veggies and chicken and Merguez sausages.  They were generous portions and were enough for this meal.

LOURMARIN

View toward hills from Lourmarin

We were not familiar with Lourmarin, nor had we ever heard of it before.  But looking at the recommended towns to visit, we decided that this would be a good stopping point between Avignon and our next B&B in Aix-en-Provence.  It was a pretty drive through the countryside with a taste of the Luberon Hills on some of the, now familiar, narrow twisty roads. It took about an hour, and Waze got us to a parking lot.  

Lourmarin castle

On the edge of town, is an impressive castle which you can tour (we didn’t).  In town, there are cafes here and there and some upscale shops.  The feel of the town was pleasant, the air fragrant, and we finally got some bright sunlight and blue sky.  Obviously, the tour buses stop here for the castle since we saw groups of people on the small streets.  But it wasn’t overly crowded.

A beautiful day to be outside
Enjoying the fresh air

We opted for lunch at Le Café de L’Ormeau, thanks to France Just for You.  It was an excellent lunch and made us think that more time in Provence on a future trip would be desirable. We ordered the menu formule which consisted of a green salad and a small pastry filled with walnut halves and blue cheese to start.  Following was roast lamb with gravy and potatoes for the Chief Penguin and some panfried dorado for me with a lovely white wine sauce, ratatouille, and wedges of polenta. 

Lovely light!

 The fish was so good, I could have eaten it all over again!  Dessert was crème brulee.  With that lunch, dinner will be munchies only or a local pizza.

Art gallery in Lourmarin

TRAVEL TIPS

  1. One of the best purchases we made for this trip was two EPICKA universal travel adapters.  This adapter can be used in multiple countries, is compact, and can accommodate cords for iPads, iPhones, and other electronic devices like Fitbit and Kindle.  There are 4 slots for USB connectors and one for C. It is cube-shaped and comes in a little zipper case.  You can buy it on Amazon.  Thanks to our friend Bill for this great recommendation!
  2. Pack a nightlight if you’re likely to get up in the dark.  Most B&Bs and many hotels don’t have nightlights in the room or the bathroom. Here we are using a little nightlight that plugs into a USB power connector, like the type you’d use to re-charge your iPhone. Amazon also has these.
  3. We’ve also found that Kleenex is not always supplied, so small travel packs of tissue can come in handy.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

France: Avignon Park & Palace

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This was a day for stairs and steps.  Many staircases and countless steps, a real workout for the knees! 

ROCHER DES DOMS

On Sunday morning, we took the ferry over to the mainland again.  We were on the first crossing of the day and the only passengers.  Feeling ambitious, we climbed the long, angled stone staircase built against natural stone up to a park.  

Stairs up to the park
One portion of the staircase

At the top (puff, puff), you are rewarded with a set of marvelous views both over the old city and across to Isle Barthelasse and Le Bercail. Le Becail is the restaurant where we enjoyed two dinners sitting by the river with a view of the city’s wall lit at night. 

Looking toward Bathelasse

Jardin du Rocher des Doms is the name of this park. The “rocher” is a limestone hill that rises more than 90 feet above the Rhône River.  This hill provided natural protection for that city that developed. For some hundreds of years, one side was arid and sheep grazed there.  Later, promenades, fountains, and sculpture were added. 

Pavilion with fountain

 Once you have made the climb, there are views on all sides plus statues to check out.  

Looking down on Avignon

Returning to the level, there are gently sloping promenades that wind their way past the cathedral and down and around to the city below.

Avignon Cathedral

Few people were out, the air was soft, and the loudest sounds were the church bells booming the quarter hours.  A few steps away is the Palace of the Popes.

PALAIS DES PAPES

Entrance to Palais des Papes

The Palace of the Popes is a mighty symbol of Christianity in earlier centuries and dominates the old city of Avignon.  It was built in the 14th century in less than 20 years under the leadership of Benedict 12th and his successor Clement 6th. It’s the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe; its floor space is the equivalent of four Gothic cathedrals!  At least seven popes ruled from here before the papacy moved back to Rome in the 15th century.

We bought tickets to go inside the Palace.  Included in the admission price is an iPad. There is no sound, but by scanning a seal at the various points during your tour, text and diagrams appear on the screen explaining what a particular space was for and enabling you to see what the room looked like when it was in use.  Pointing the iPad at the ceiling, for example, you could see its original colors and patterns. The iPad was a bit heavy to carry, but the text for us was in English.  Virtually all of the explanatory panels in the rooms were French only.  

One facade of the palace

We did get a sense of the grandeur and size of the palace in the early centuries since several towers were taken down and other changes made by subsequent popes.  And a glimpse of some of the frescoes.  By climbing up and down many more narrow staircases, we got views to the surrounding buildings and also a chance to sit in the pope’s private garden. 

Interior gardens

 It wasn’t a perfect tour.  The signage could have been better, and the way to exit much clearer. Near the end, we roamed around trying to find the Sortie sign.  Turns out the only way to get out is to drop off your iPad and then go through the two levels of the gift shop. 

LUNCH AND DINNER

You could easily find an outdoor café for lunch as cafes abound in this city.  But, we had booked a table at the elegant bistro, Le Carre du Palais, and had a table outside looking toward the palace wall.  The café has a notable selection of wines by the glass (we splurged a bit in our choices) and an intriguing menu. To start, we  both had the shrimp with corn espuma (foam) followed by the veal filet with forest mushrooms for the Chief Penguin and salmon in a very light curry sauce for me. 

Shrimp and corn foam
Salmon with style!

The Condrieu wine I had was lovely. Dessert for the CP was a stacked St. Honore.  

Dessert with a lean

We relaxed and savored this meal.  No waiter rushed or even nudged us. We could sit as long as we liked.

Our dinner that evening and the one before were at Le Bercail, the only restaurant serving. Their menu is short and the view enchanting.  We liked the platter of charcuterie and cheese we had twice as well as the fish soup and beef daube we sampled.  

Avignon at night from Isle Barthelasse

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

France: Avignon

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LODGING & LOCATION

Avignon is one of France’s largest cities with walls and many gates of entry and the famous bridge of the song every American school child learns in 3rd grade. The city is historically important because In the 14th century, for almost 70 years, Avignon was the site of the papacy. Over that time, seven popes resided here. Pope Clement V chose Avignon over Rome because it was more centrally located in Christendom. Although the papacy moved back to Rome in the 15th century, Avignon did not become part of France until 1791 after many invasions and sieges and just two years after the start of the French Revolution.

We are staying on Ile de la Barthelasse, very close to old Avignon. There is free ferry service across the Rhone River.  Our B&B is down a dirt lane tucked in, but it is possible to drive and park at a nearby restaurant and walk from there to the ferry landing.  Ferry hours are more limited now that is October and post season. 

The house we are staying in has a pretty garden and pool and small round tables outside each guest unit.  Our room is quite spacious and has modern plumbing and a nice shower.  We also have a mini fridge, just the right size to store a bottle of wine or some fruit.  

B&B grounds and pool

Last evening, Luc, our host here at Le Mas de L’ile, kindly drove us and another guest to a parking lot near a bridge.  We climbed a tall staircase and then walked across the bridge over the Rhône and through one of the gates into the city. There is nothing subtle about the architecture, but it is pleasant to walk these streets and think about all that has gone on here.

Avignon’s outer walls are impressive to say the least!
Grand architecture
Bank, now a wine bar/restaurant

We had dinner at an up and coming newer restaurant called L’Essentiel.  The Chief Penguin loved what he ordered, and I think he made better choices than I did.  He had the foie gras starter followed by lamb shank cooked for 7 hours and then a little molten chocolate cake. 

Roast lamb and veggies

 I had the egg parfait to start.  I was being adventurous since I had enjoyed an egg cocotte previously.  This dish was okay with its croutons and fried zucchini rounds, but a bit bland and too eggy.  My main course was chicken (cooked sous vide) layered with some greens on top and underneath a mixture of tomatoes and potatoes.  It was different and nicely presented, but I didn’t love it.  My dessert was raspberries and cherries in a thick jam with sorbet and meringue.  

Serious conversation

The restaurant’s hostess was delightful and quickly agreed to arrange a cab to pick us up and take us back to our B&B.

WHAT THIS TRIP IS ABOUT

This trip has many aspects.  It’s a return to a country where we have spent considerable time over the decades. It’s an opportunity to visit regions we had not been to before like Normandy and Brittany and experience their noteworthy history and culture.  Traveling by car, it’s a chance to explore small towns and villages and get the flavor of local life.

It has not been a trip marked by lots of museums and ruins, a bit more of those when we get to Paris.  And because we love food and French cuisine especially, we have focused on and savored the meals, whether they be traditional fare in a casual bistro or the creative offerings of a rising young chef. We are deliberately not maintaining a frantic or even a frenetic pace.  We are picking and choosing from the suggestions from our trip organizers and going about our days in a somewhat relaxed manner.  This is travel that works for us at this stage of life.

SATURDAY IN AVIGNON

This morning we took the ferry across the Rhône. We had a wait for the small boat, but the actual crossing takes only about 3 minutes. 

Ferry landing, Avignon side
Two women are the ferry boat crew

Disembarking, you go up a ramp and walk a short distance along a busy road to one of the big gates.  We entered just beyond Porte d’Avignon and spent about an hour wandering the streets and re-visiting the main square, Place de l’Horloge, in the old town. Translated it means Clock Tower Square, but the clock of its name is barely visible, and I never did see it.  Like Paris, the square is filled with grand 19th century buildings (city hall, opera house, old bank) and dotted with lots of sidewalk cafes.  If nothing else, the French give priority to dining well and often.

On the recommendation of Luc, our host here, we had lunch at La Cour d’Honneur.  The tables in the courtyard offered views out to the street while still being enclosed. Here, we had a wonderful meal, another one of the best of this trip.  The Chief Penguin and I both started with the Provençal tomatoes with mozzarella and greens in pesto oil.  He had scallops with black truffle and I, the salmon with spinach. Silky risotto accompanied both dishes.  With a bit of local wine and espresso to finish, it was perfect.  I heard no English at all, and had fun watching the French diners around us.

Animated conversation
A good time

Note: Photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo shows one of Avignon’s exterior walls.