France: Castles & Gardens

Today we explored more of Dordogne with a visit to a castle, hanging gardens, and the medieval city of Sarlat. 

MILANDES IN CASTELNAUD

In this area of France, it seems you are never far from a castle or chateau, to use the French word.  In a small radius from our B&B, there are at least four chateaus, most of which we’ve seen from a distance, if not up close.  Milandes was a chateau we had not heard of previously.  On our hosts’ Richard and Philippe’s recommendation, we started there.

Josephine Baker, an American singer, dancer and actress, was born in 1906 and came of age in the 1920’s and 30’s. As a Black woman who was not widely accepted, she left the U.S. for France.  Here, she was warmly welcomed and had a very successful career.  In later years, she also performed in New York and elsewhere.  

Milandes is the 15th century chateau she owned for 30 years.  Baker lived and raised her twelve adopted children here.  But she was more than just a performer. During the Second World War, she served in the French military carrying encrypted messages in her sheet music.  In her post-war years, she actively fought against racism.

Exterior of Milandes

Her chateau, which was much restored during the 19th century with formal gardens added in the 20th, is stately and beautiful.  The Chief Penguin and I thoroughly enjoyed both the grounds and touring the interior rooms, everything from the huge kitchen to children’s bedrooms to Baker’s dressing room.  All are furnished, and there are mementos and photos from her long career. (Photos not allowed inside.)  The air was lovely so we ended with croque monsieurs for lunch outside at the brasserie.

Casual French lunch

MARQUEYSSAC

Planted around a 17th century chateau, the Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac have been owned by the same family since 1692.   A series of winding paths and walkways stretch linearly for a kilometer from the level of the chateau to a belvedere which is almost 400 feet above the river.     Along the way, the views of the Dordogne Valley are stunning.  In the distance, you can see castles and a fort ranging from Castelnaud to Beynac to Roque Gageac.   The paths are lined with boxwood hedges and boxwood topiary.

View over the boxwoods toward the valley

After you park, there is a somewhat steep walkway up to the entrance gate.  Once inside, you have your choice of several different walks, one of which is flat, the others being hilly.  We walked some, marveling at the views across the valley and also checked out the chateau and tea garden.  Some of the rooms in the chateau are lightly furnished.  The thousands of boxwoods that add to the beauty and fragrance of the paths were added in the 19th century by Julien de Cerval. Cerval made other improvements to the property as well.

Boxwood topiary & fields below

RETURN TO SARLAT

Street in Sarlat

More than 40 years ago, the Chief Penguin and I spent part of a day in Sarlat. We came on market day, wandered around the stalls, and then savored lunch outside in one of the squares.  Sarlat is one of the best preserved and most beautiful 14th century towns anywhere.  Its cobblestoned streets and narrow passageways are both inviting and intriguing.  Scores of restaurants are tucked in and around these winding ways.  It is hard not to eat well here. 

 Specialities are foie gras, truffles, duck confit, cassoulet, and more.  Our lunch that day included foie gras, of course, and their famous pommes sardalaises, potatoes cooked in duck or goose fat with garlic and parsley.  I don’t recall the rest of the meal, but it was deliciously memorable!

Square in Sarlat

Yesterday, we weren’t in need of a meal, so we just strolled noting the shops for truffles and wine and the many restaurants and cafes, almost wishing we were hungry.  We stopped at two war memorials. A gentle rain was falling, few people were out, and it was strangely peaceful.

Sarlat memorial

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the garden at Milandes.

France: Out & About in Perigord Noir

WALKING

Castelnaud Castle

Yesterday was lovely and warm, and we walked to the nearby village of Castelnaud, site of a castle high on cliff.  We went along a paved path for bikers and pedestrians through groves of walnut trees.  It was a 45 minute walk at a moderately brisk pace and got us some much needed exercise.  It’s the end of the walnut harvest, and any walnuts on the path are fair game.  Stamp on them, open, and eat.  At the boulangerie, we bought a tasty loaf of walnut bread.

Walnut trees

 Castelnaud is compact, and there were several restaurants, but only one was open.   Restaurant Le Tournepique serves Perigord and Basque specialties.  Arriving just after their noon opening, we were able to snag a table with no reservation.  In the next half hour, the restaurant filled up totally.  All French, no other Americans.  

The Chief Penguin ordered the homemade foie gras, delicate in flavor, followed by the shepherd salad of greens, cherry tomatoes and strips of cheese and chorizo. 

Shepherd salad

 I went for an omelet with Serrano ham with a green side salad.  The French do omelets so well!  This one was stuffed with ham and the eggs were light.  Of course, we had to have a glass of local wine.  Around us, other diners were ordering duck and beef and the smells were tempting. With the return walk back to the B&B, we got in a lot of steps!

WANDERING ROQUE-GAGEAC

A town built into the rock wall

Having spent so many days in the car, we took the rest of the afternoon off and lazed at our B&B.  Around 5:00 pm, we drove to the nearby town of Roque-Gageac, touted as one of the loveliest in the area, where we were also booked for dinner. Roque-Gageac did not disappoint!  Located on the river, it dates back to the Middle Ages and is built from the ground up into and against a massive stone cliff.  At street level, there are shops, some selling walnuts and walnut oil, and restaurants.

Walnuts galore!

Every so often appears what might be an alleyway somewhere else, but here is a set of stone steps leading to the next level. 

 Some of these stairways are steep and often they wind a bit.  We climbed up one long set and found ourselves on a straight stretch past a series of tropical plants: bamboo, hibiscus, giant ferns, all with handwritten labels at the base.  There were signs requesting respect for the plants and a mounted plaque listing the man who had created this garden.  

Farther on, we came to a small plaza outside a simple church.  Built in the 1300’s, it was solid still. 

Church built in the 1300’s

 The doors were open, and we peered in.  There were two stone benches on the plaza and an upright stone cross.  We sat in the quiet, and I pondered how difficult it must have been to construct this back then.  Walking in the opposite direction, we walked up another set of stone steps going a bit higher to the medieval fort.  A very impressive structure built against the stone.

Portion of the fort on one of the highest levels.

After dinner, we stopped a few times to snap a few nighttime shots of the buildings.

EATING

I had booked dinner at La Belle Etoile, located in one of the Roque-Gageac hotels.  The dining room is lovely, and we were pleased to be seated before our reservation time.  This was a first class meal with great service.  The dishes, from several amuse bouches to main courses and desserts, were sophisticated and creative, but never precious.  Noteworthy were the little cups of cauliflower soup with foam.  The Chief Penguin had langoustine ravioli followed by fish.   I had egg cocotte (baked egg usually in cream) with shrimp and bits of morels.  It was luscious. 

 Then I had veal roast dotted with ginger and spinach on the side.  My dessert was strawberries in a balsamic syrup with a soft pastry on top while the Chief Penguin had profiteroles filled with chestnut cream.  This meal was a real treat!

Oeuf cocotte

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

France: Dordogne

ST. EMILION

Yesterday we left the Medoc region and headed east to Dordogne and a lovely B&B tucked in the valley outside St. Cybranet.  Our trip organizers presented us with several choices of stops along the way.  We took divided highways for the first hour.  Then, we decided, having skipped going into the city of Bordeaux, to go to St. Emilion (still in Bordeaux) and possibly have lunch there.  

St. Emilion is a name that is probably recognizable to wine drinkers since it produces very fine, notable wines. What I didn’t know previously, is that St. Emilion was granted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 1999, a first for a vineyard town. Legend has it that St. Emilion was founded by a monk who came in the 8th century, lived in a cave, and performed miracles. The town was then named for him.

In later years, lots of underground galleries and spaces were created. The St. Emilion of today is a town of multiple levels and extraordinarily beautiful medieval architecture. Plus the views out over the vineyards and toward neighboring towns are gorgeous.

Vineyards and beyond

It was a lovely mostly sunny warm day, and a Saturday.  It felt like half of France had the same idea!  As is often the case, getting into the old part of any of these historic towns and cities, involves a series of tight turns, narrow streets, and sometimes arches so narrow you think for sure the car will scrape the sides.  

We had the GPS for a specific parking area in St. Emilion, and Waze got us there.  Space after space was filled, people crowded the streets, and we kept going, about ready to give up, when lo, up ahead as we inched our way along the ramparts, we got the last parking space at the very end!  The Chief Penguin, now master of French ticketing machines, walked the short distance to get a ticket while I stayed with the unlocked car.  

Parking on the ramparts
Looking down on St. Emilion

He returned and we began a slow descent down into more of St. Emilion.  It’s a beautiful town built on many levels and we kept stopping to take photos.  There were people everywhere, as if a tour bus or two had just disgorged its passengers.  We stopped in a plaza and noted a beautiful hotel front and its restaurant, La Table de Pavie. Looking at the menu, the prix fixe was 220 euros per person, about the same in dollars at the current exchange rate. (Later research revealed this is Michelin two star restaurant.)  We walked on.  

Rooftops of St. Emilion

A restaurant and wine bar not far looked equally enticing and more affordable.  Seen through the window were lots of empty tables.  We walked in and inquired, and when the maitre d’ asked if we had a reservation, and we replied no, he suggested tomorrow.  Disappointing, since I wondered where all the people were to occupy those seats.  But, perhaps it was a matter of staffing, not so much lack of space for us.

FAST FOOD FRENCH STYLE

In desperation, we took another short gander around St. Emilion and then walked back up to the car and headed out of town.  On the lookout for some place to eat, perhaps a pizzeria, we spied a sign for a McDonald’s 3 kilometers away and headed there.  The French like McDonalds!  The parking lot was jammed, we found one open spot, and headed inside to join the crowd.  

We haven’t eaten in a fast food restaurant in probably 15 years at least.  This McD was high-tech.  You ordered and paid at a big kiosk, and then they delivered the food to your table in whatever zone number you had entered.  We had chicken on a bun that was actually quite good.  Later, we noticed that Caesar salads were also on the menu—not your old McDonald’s.

French couple ordering

WALNUTS AND STRAWBERRIES

Our latest B&B is not far from a castle at Castelnaud.  It’s located a bit south of Sarlat, the center of what’s known as Perigord Noir or Black Perigord for its dark forests and black truffles.  Our hosts, Richard and Philippe, warmly welcomed us with a refreshing glass of ginger sun tea. They have run this B&B for more than 20 years, and both have backgrounds in hotel management.  It’s clear from the level of hospitality that they know their business.  The house is an 18th century building with a pretty terrace and pool and a lovely view.  

Exterior of our B&B

Dinner was at their table with a very pleasant couple from Vancouver, British Columbia.  We started with an aperitif of walnut leaf wine (made by Richard) on their vine covered terrace.  Walnut trees and walnuts are a big deal in this area.  I had noted walnuts, noix, on some menus, but had yet to order any dishes with them. 

Richard is also the cook. The first course was a delicious pate with a small green salad.  Duck confit topped with mashed potatoes with green beans on the side made up the main plate.  I thought the duck was scrumptious.  Next came cheese (I was the only taker), followed by homemade strawberry sorbet and homemade shortbread.  Several varieties of strawberries are grown locally.  The sorbet was yummy!  Dinner, with local red wines, was a tasty re-introduction to the cuisine of Dordogne. We retired having been very well fed.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington except McDonald’s one (some rights reserved.)

France: Arcachon Basin

THROUGH WOODS TO OYSTER CABINS

Today’s outing was a drive down to the Arcachon Basin area and specifically the towns of Ares and Cap Ferret.  Our starting location was about an hour north of Bordeaux in Vertheuil, near the town of Lesparre.  From our B&B, we drove west and south to Hourtin and then south more or less parallel to two long lakes to the town of Ares.  Much of the drive goes through the Medoc Regional Parc, a heavily wooded area with tall trees and lots of turnoffs into the woods for camping or picnicking.  Ares is one of the centers of oyster farming and sits on the top of the Arcachon Basin.  This area, along with Normandy and Brittany are three main production areas in the country. 

Ares waterfront

An arresting female figure, a sculpture, watches over the harbor.

Femme Oceane by Pios, 1997

It was a gloomy gray day for a drive, and the closer we got to the waterfront at Ares, the quieter it got.  The summer holiday season was definitely over.  When we got to the restaurant I had earmarked for lunch, it was closed up as tight as could be.  But, on both sides of the inlet were oyster cabins, small huts where local vendors sell their oysters along with other seafood such as shrimp.  

Oyster cabins
Oyster cabin cum restaurant

These cabins are distinctive for their pointed roofs and pastel colored doors and trim.  They appeared to be closed as well. But for those who were desperate for oysters, there was even a hut with an oyster automat; choose how many and how big!

Oyster automat
How many oysters do you want?

LUNCH IN ARES

This was a time when the app Around Me really came in handy.  I checked it for restaurants close by and noted two that were just a half mile away in the center of Ares near the church.  Centre ville was alive and open for business.  My preferred place was La Fille du Barbu (bearded man’s daughter) as it had two good reviews.  The other option was a fast food sort of eatery with burgers and tacos.  We arrived at La Fille just after 12:00 and before it completely filled with locals.  They had two menus of the day and a bunch of a la carte choices.  I successfully navigated the menu French for our order.  

Salmon entree

We selected the 17 euro menu which was a great deal!  For the starter we each had the tomato tart with small salad and then a lovely piece of salmon on pesto with mashed potatoes and veggies.  Our dessert was a poached pear and citron sorbet in star-anise flavored syrup.  It was delicious and substantial!

BEACH AND DUNES

Beach at Cap Ferret

After lunch, we drove about another half hour farther south along a finger of land to Cap Ferret at its end. Here’s there’s an extensive beach.  We walked up a steep boardwalk and then down a path against a strong breeze almost to the beach.  On either side of the path are tall sand dunes. 

Substantial sand dune

 On one side of the boardwalk is a narrow track for a small train.  We could only imagine how crowded and popular this beach is in the summer.  We thought we might get a view across the water toward the massive Pyla Sand Dune, the tallest sand dune in Europe, but it was too cloudy. 

Going back up away from the beach

On the way to and from our B&B, we passed through a number of small towns.  Towns of narrow twisting streets and always a looming church steeple.  The town of Ares was no exception, and I marveled at this church’s smaller, but striking, contemporary stained glass windows.  Contemporary ones, but with figures as well as shapes.

Window in Eglise Saint Vincent de Paul
Stained glass in Ares church

DINING

We had thought about going into a nearby village for dinner, but instead purchased some food at the Carrefour supermarket, while trying to buy gas. Madeleine, our host, kindly laid out tableware and glasses for us in the dining room. Our snack of slices of Serrano ham, cheese, sesame crackers, and a couple of clementines, along with red wine and a cookie, was just right!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)