Dublin: Library, Castle, Cathedral

This was Day 3 in Dublin and we spent about 4 hours with a tour guide. James was knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and brimming with historical details. The highlight for me was the Book of Kells exhibit at the library at Trinity College It was a well thought out exhibit in which selected pages and images from the Book had been digitized and blown up so you could see the details. The book is a 4-volume work from 800 A.D. consisting of the gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Of course, there was one of the actual four books, well protected in a special glass case and opened to a particular page.

Enlarged image from the Book of Kells
Jesus as depicted in Book of Kells

Upstairs we spent time in the Long Room, a stunning long barrel vaulted reading room with layers of stacks on each side of a central aisle. It was built between 1712 and 1732 with the impressive ceiling only added in 1860 to provide room for more books. All in all, there are 200,000 volumes in this space.

Long Room in Trinity College library

Along the sides at the ends of the stacks are busts of notable individuals from Cicero to Jonathan Swift. We felt fortunate to be able to get into this space as all the books are being moved out and the building closed and renovated beginning in several months!

Jonathan Swift

Guide James is obviously fond of the whole Trinity campus and consequently, gave us names and dates about other buildings including the historic earth sciences building (detail in header photo), two other libraries, and the lovely campanile in the center of the green. Today, there are 19,000 undergraduates at Trinity and about 7,000 graduate students.

Bell tower at Trinity College

Our next stop was Dublin Castle. This castle was from the 13th century to 1922 the center of British rule in Ireland. After independence, it became and still is the site for state occasions such as presidential inaugurations. We did not tour inside, but instead spent time walking around some of the perimeter of this large and sprawling complex.

Portions of Dublin Castle from the exterior

Our last stop on this comprehensive tour was St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Established in 1191 and the site of where St. Patrick baptized people, this cathedral was initially a Roman Catholic Church. Later, it became the national cathedral of the Church of Ireland, an Anglican Church. Steeped in history, and like many sites in Dublin, it is associated with Jonathan Swift, one of its many deans. Swift is buried here in an upright position.

Outside the cathedral is a lovely park created by the Guinness family. Known for their beer and ales, this family has been a generous benefactor throughout Dublin.

St. Patrick’s and adjacent park

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Dublin: First Impressions

ARRIVING IN DUBLIN

As our flight across the Atlantic began descending into the Dublin airport, I was struck by blocks of green. Green fields, neatly regular plots of green, and here and there rows of houses and houses grouped in a circle around a central business district. At least two other international flights arrived about when we did, but getting through immigration only took ten minutes. The wait for our bags was at least 30 minutes, so we were relieved when our bags came down the chute.

As we exited the airport, we noted the very long line of folks waiting to enter. We were told that it could mean several hours in line, so we should get to the airport early when we depart. We will!! The ride to our hotel in the center of the city was about another 35 minutes.

Buildings are all low, no skyscrapers; many are older of gray or beige stone, but marked by front entry doors painted in solid colors. Red, royal blue, pale yellow, emerald green, or even a yellow green. These pops of color add interest to the facades. (No photos yet, but I’m determined to get a few!) And here and there, some stunning new architecture.

Contemporary Dublin architecture

Given that it was before noon, our room was not yet ready. We walked through the streets around the hotel including Grafton Street, a main shopping street. Lots of restaurants, cafes, and bars, many with outside seating, in addition to both local and chain stores. It was a cool 60ish degrees. Most people were very casually dressed and wearing fleece or down jackets. Lots of denim jeans and sneakers.

Shoppers in Dublin

We checked out several lunch possibilities (most opened at noon), and finally decided on Davy Byrnes Bar and Restaurant. We had a very friendly waitress, and our orders of fish and chips (first rate with mushy peas!) for the Chief Penguin and roast chicken over puréed potatoes with peas for me fit the bill.

To round out the day, we spent some time sitting in the very attractive hotel lounge until our room was ready and then went out for another walk.

Flowers galore!

This time we strolled a bit in St. Stephen’s Green. This park is lovely and a bit like a mini Central Park with flower beds and statutes of historic figures. We will return for a more extensive tour.

We had an early dinner in the hotel’s casual restaurant. We both started with delicate smoked salmon. The Chief Penguin, a connoisseur of such, pronounced it the best he’d ever had anywhere! He then had some whole shrimps in Romesco sauce, and I ordered their classic Caesar salad covered with a blizzard of finely grated Parmesan. We had wines by the glass.

A pair of young women at the next table greeted us, joked when the CP dropped a piece of silverware, and just before they left gifted us with second glasses of wine. A surprising gesture! Overall, we are finding folks here very friendly from service staff to others we have encountered.

My salad & 2 glasses of wine!

Early to bed to be restored for a more active next day!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).