Italy: Eating Out in Tuscany

PASTA

If you like pasta and/or pizza, you’ll never go hungry in Italy.  We have been enjoying the pastas in particular and the fresh truffles.  The Chief Penguin is truffle-obsessed; I’m just very fond of them.  Consequently, we have both had tagliolini (the thin spaghetti-like pasta) with black truffles and a couple times with some early white truffles.  The white ones are supremely delicious, with the best ones later on in November and even into December.  

My favorite pasta dish thus far, aside from those with truffles, was the fazzoletti (handkerchiefs) stuffed with a bit of sausage covered with a light film of cheese.  They were thin and green and oh, so delicate and delicious! 

 I also loved some ravioli filled with ricotta and spinach served in Tuscan meat sauce.

BRUSCHETTA

When tomatoes are really ripe, there is nothing quite like a bruschetta to start your meal.  Chopped fresh tomato on good toasted bread with a bit of olive oil can be sublime.  We’ve had many renditions, but the best one so far was in Florence with an under layer of pesto.

Another day, we had a bruschetta variation we hadn’t had before, and that was a thin layer of sausage with slices of black truffle on top.  Super yum!

CAPRESE

By now, most Americans are familiar with the salad of sliced tomatoes and mozzarella with fresh basil called caprese and usually topped with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  We’ve had several versions of it on this trip.   We had an especially pretty plate in Cortona at Bar 500.  

Another caprese was the wonderful one we had in Florence with a bit of dried oregano on top.

STARTERS

A surprise starter was some beautiful smoked Scottish salmon with burrata that we also sampled in Cortona.

In Florence, the Chief Penguin began with a light asparagus soufflé topped with shaved black truffle, something different.

One lunch, the CP and I shared a starter called Pop and Cool, and yes, it was listed in English on the Italian menu.  It was prosciutto, melon, and some focacacia.  Pretty to look and refreshing to eat.

RISOTTO

I’m a big fan of risotto, but given that we haven’t really been in northern Italy, have only seen it on a few menus. A  properly made risotto is a creamy rice dish that can be as simple as when rice, good stock, and Parmesan cheese are combined in stages, or a more complex dish with the addition of vegetables, meat, or seafood.

I ordered a veggie risotto with zucchini at a local eatery in Arezzo, but it was on the dry side and not a true creamy risotto.  The first one I had this trip (in Rome) included smoked cheese, and it was very satisfying.  I tried again in Florence. Here my risotto with asparagus, shrimp, and melted provolone on top was the right consistency and tasty.

OTHER DISHES

We are in Tuscany and beef dominates many menus. At home, we are not frequent beef eaters, and consequently, have not (at least not yet) indulged in steak Florentine or any other steak options.  I did enjoy a veal stew Tuscan style in Arezzo which I thought might include carrots and onions, but it was simple cubes of veal in a rich dark sauce.  

And I’ve treated myself twice now to vitello tonnato.  Traditionally, this dish of thinly sliced cold veal topped with a tuna mayonnaise is garnished with a few capers. One I had was, but the most recent version had sliced fennel on it and no capers.  The fennel was a sweet alternative to capers, and the dish was great with the addition of fresh cracked black pepper.

The Chief Penguin opted for a calzone one night with ham and cheese, probably enough for four given its size.  

And on another night, he opted for a starter of salami and burrata with shreds of black truffle, again a very large portion, and a bit surprising in an Italian restaurant.  Perhaps Americans were their target audience.

PIZZA, JUST BECAUSE

Pizza is available everywhere. You could easily have a pizza twice, if not three times a day. Here’s a rustic pizza with spinach, sausage, and Gorgonzola cheese that the Chief Penguin ordered. And no, he didn’t eat all of it! Italy is carb heaven, and what good carbs they are, but one has to exercise a tiny bit of restraint. Bon Appétit!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.).