I always find the first day hard and long after flying the Atlantic. Our flight over was bumpy much of the way and true sleep eluded me. The baggage claim was packed with people, but coming through passport control was somewhat simpler than in the past. It was an hour from landing until we were in the car for the hour ride to our hotel. Rome was sunny and bright, and the light on the yellow fall leaves breathtaking.
Romans eat all day long
As expected, the room wasn’t ready, so we did the walk and wander routine around our neighborhood from the Spanish Steps to the Piazza del Popolo until it was an acceptable time for lunch. Just before 12:30, early by Italian standards, but perfect for tourists. The Chief Penguin tucked into a plate of fettuccine with porcini while I opted for the comfort of a risotto made with smoked provolone and Prosecco. We ate at a leisurely pace, enjoying the outdoor scene around Alla Rampa in Piazza Mignanelli and timed our return to the hotel for when the room was ready.
AFTERNOON & EVENING
The Chief Penguin took a long walk to his favorite piazzas while I dozed a bit for an hour before we set out again. Rome is packed with people, and I mean packed! We were here four years ago at this same time and it wasn’t nearly as crowded. But then, we know at least five couples who were to be in Italy at some point this month.
Soft evening light
The evening light on the city’s amber, rose, tan, and cream buildings was soft and beautiful. Dinner was at another restaurant café with outside seating, this one called Angie’s. It is more casual than Alla Rampa with a less extensive menu. We shared a mozzarella and prosciutto pizza, grilled vegetables (red peppers, zucchini and eggplant), and an apple tart along with some white wine. We retired early to be ready for another day in this city of narrow streets and intimate piazzas.
The book’s subtitle: How Two Pioneering Sisters Brought Medicine to Women and Women to Medicine, aptly captures the mission of Elizabeth and Emily Blackwell. Born in Bristol, England, into a large family, Elizabeth and Emily emigrated to Cincinnati when they were just eleven and six. Although not wealthy, their parents prized education and, Elizabeth from an early age thought herself destined for greatness of some sort. She believed herself superior to most everyone and especially to other women.
(hhnmag.com)
Rejected by several medical schools, she ultimately was the lone female student at Geneva Medical College in upstate New York. In 1849, she became the first woman in the U.S. to become an M.D. Elizabeth put in her time observing and treating patients in Edinburgh and Paris, but she much preferred writing and teaching. Later she founded and directed the first clinic and hospital in New York solely for women and children. This was long before the germ theory of disease was put forth.
Elizabeth was forceful, and she prevailed on Emily to pursue her medical degree and then join her. For years, Emily followed in Elizabeth’s wake in a subordinate position until finally she tired of it. These women doctors were dedicated to medicine in their separate ways and yet remained supportive of each other’s efforts. Of the two, Emily was the more compassionate and caring practicing doctor.
A fascinating account of the obstacles they overcame in their intertwined careers, it’s also a detailed study of complex sibling relationships. Neither woman ever married.
Set in the early 1900’s, this 6-part Austrian crime series pairs Detective Oskar Rheinhardt with Max Liebermann, a young doctor in training. Oskar was happiest working alone and less than enthusiastic when Dr. Liebermann came along to observe a case. Max is studying to be a psychiatrist. An admirer of Freud and his methods, Max thinks about the criminal mind and what motivates a murder. As Max becomes more involved, Oskar begins to appreciate his insights and the two form an unlikely team.
The murder scenes are gruesome ones, graphic and appropriately bloody, and “viewer discretion is advised.” I found the first episode grim and dark but got more engaged as Oskar and Max become partners. Along the way, we get to know Max’s family and his fiancée and learn a bit more about Oskar’s personal life. There are plans for a second season and we’ll be there!
I thought Stanley Tucci was marvelous in the film, Julie and Julia, as Paul Child alongside Meryl Streep. That was at least ten years ago, and Tucci is still charming and sexy with a lovely deep voice. Here he brings his passion for food to the fore introducing viewers to the tastes, smells, and sights of culinary Italy. There are six episodes in this first season, and you don’t need to watch them in order.
We began with Campania (think Naples and pizza) and then moved on to Tuscany (steak Florentine and panzanella). The other evening it was on to Bologna, source of delectable prosciutto, nutty Parmesan, and delicate tortellini. Stanley is a warm and relaxed guide who provides snippets of history and then meets up with professors, farmers, producers, and chefs. Everywhere he goes, he tastes and exclaims and tastes some more.
If you are an Italianophile, you’ll appreciate anew the variety and richness of the country’s cuisine and its passionate citizens. If you are a foodie, it’s essential viewing! Just be sure you eat before you watch.
CULINARY CORNER
Cottonmouth Southern Soul Kitchen
(heraldtribune.com)
Located in Bradenton’s Village of the Arts, this newish restaurant has a spacious back patio and boasts tasty southern cuisine. We went with friends mid-week and were the only outside diners for most of our meal. Our waitress was friendly and helpful as we decided on our orders.
The fried green tomatoes were perfect. The fried calamari Thai style was an interesting attempt but a bit lacking. The ribs and the meatloaf burger (adorned with tater tots) were very good very large portions. The crab cake and shrimp and cheese grits entrées also got high marks. A selection of wines by the glass and beers including original Pabst Blue Ribbon rounded out the meal. If you like live music, Tuesday and Saturday are the nights, and on Sundays they offer a hillbilly/ gospel brunch. We might try the latter—just for the experience!
Note: Photo of a gallery in Village of the Arts courtesy of 83degreesmedia.com.
From Rome, we went by car to Civitavecchia to board our cruise ship. It’s about an hour’s drive from the center of town through the countryside to a rather plain, but functional, cruise terminal. Here, after being given a card for Boarding Group 1, we sat in one of the many rows of folding chairs until it was time for check-in. They opened the counter about 20 minutes early and thus, we were boarding the ship and in the dining room before noon.
As is the custom, you board, staff take your picture and then give you an ID/key card for your room, and then direct you to the dining room for lunch. As you approach, wait staff are standing by to offer you a glass of champagne. We were escorted to a lovely table by the window. I had the Cobb salad which was done chopped style and excellent, while the Chief Penguin indulged in a hamburger, a rare treat. After lunch, we sat and read until our stateroom was ready.
ANCHORED OFF SORRENTO
We cruised overnight to Sorrento which is on the west coast of Italy and situated near the Amalfi coast. We had scheduled an early morning (8:00 A.M.) tour to Pompeii with our travel companions, Ellen and Bob. Consequently, we were up early and waiting to get the 7:30 tender to town. The tender departures were delayed so it was slightly after 8 when we arrived at the dock in Sorrento. Tour guide Clelia and driver Michael were waiting for us. Sorrento is built on a cliff above the sea with very narrow streets and many switchbacks up and around to get out of town. Add in lots of traffic and Michael’s skill and fortitude were much appreciated! It took about an hour and a quarter to get to the Pompeii ruins.
Modern Pompei is located in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius, a volcano that is still active today. The ancient city of Pompeii at its base was buried under 13 to 20 feet of ash and pumice by an eruption of the volcano in 79 A. D. It is the ruins of this town that can be toured today. Over the years, Pompeii was settled and inhabited by Italians, Greeks, Etruscans, and later Romans. It was a rich city and in the ruins, one can see evidence of art and sometimes elaborate decoration.
Spaces where human remains were found were injected with plaster to recreate the shape of the body. Examples can be seen preserved in glass cases along with rows and rows of urns and jugs of varying shapes and sizes. I’ve visited other ruins in Italy (Roman Forum), in Mexico City, and elsewhere, and found Pompeii to be one of the most interesting, both because of what was preserved and because of the mosaics and other art. Without Clelia, this would not have been as informative or as enjoyable an experience.
