Category: Manhattan

Memo from Manhattan

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DECEMBER IN NEW YORK

Braving the cold in Central Park

I confess that I’ve become something of a Florida wimp when it comes to weather, and the cold here in New York makes me want to hibernate.  The Chief Penguin and I trek 20 minutes each way for our daily visit with our granddaughters and also walk to dinner at one of several neighborhood restaurants.  We have not been to any museum exhibits yet—that’s on the docket for this coming week. On a recent raw rainy day, we took a day trip to Philadelphia to spend time with some good friends.  The weather was cold, but the reception warm.  We’ve also been enjoying the lighted trees and decorations around town, something we see less of at home.

One of many lighted trees on Park Ave.
Elaborate Christmas decorations
Bells on the Mongolian consulate
Santa at The Mark Hotel

VIEWING 

Astrid (PBS Masterpiece)

Autistic characters are highlighted in several recent TV drama series.  A few years ago, I watched the American series, The Good Doctor, featuring a talented surgeon with autism, played by Freddie Highmore.  And as I mentioned in my last post, I’m now into the South Korean series, Extraordinary Attorney Woo, about an autistic young lawyer.  

My friend Cathie recommended Astrid, a French series set in Paris about a woman who works in the criminal records archives and, with an unusual memory for small details, sees connections between seemingly unrelated cases.  Detective Raphaelle Coste enlists Astrid’s aid in solving a case, and although Astrid is reluctant to step outside of her well ordered routines, she provides insights that no one else can.  It’s another realistic and engaging portrayal of autistic skills and challenges.  

The first episode introduces the characters and is an hour and a half; subsequent episodes run just under an hour.  There are 10 episodes in the first season; season 2 is out, but I am not sure whether it’s going to be available on PBS.

NEW DINING OPTIONS

Mediterraneo

This Upper East Side eatery on 2nd Avenue is a welcome addition to our roster of Italian restaurants.  We had walked by it many times, but never stopped.  This time, we had lunch with our son and family.  Our two granddaughters each ordered pizza, Margherita and an arrabiata and pretty much devoured them.  They were baked in a wood-fired oven with a very thin crust.

The adults ordered pasta from homemade gnocchi bolognese to spinach ravioli to pappardelle with duck ragu.  Everything was very good, but the standout was the almost silky duck ragu.  It deserved the two exclamation points by its description on the menu.  

The menu also includes several enticing veal entrees as well as salads so I see a return visit soon.  Service was pleasant and the restaurant only slightly busy on this Saturday.

Pil Pil

We mourned the loss of our favorite tapas restaurant El Porron which went out of business due to Covid.  Since then, we’ve been scouting around for a suitable replacement. While studying the menu outside the other day, the Chief Penguin met a young man from the Pil Pil staff.  He encouraged the CP to dine here and CP told him we soon would.  Pil Pil is a small place on E. 78th Street off Third Avenue featuring Spanish dishes including some tapas.  Our first foray here was good, but not outstanding.  

We sampled the tomato bread (excellent and more like a bruschetta than pan con tomate), fried calamari (thicker rings heavily breaded with a tasty lemon mayonnaise), ham croquettes, and the shrimp in olive oil and garlic.  

To close the loop, the Chief Penguin stopped the young man greeter from the other day, and then donned his fuzzy wool hat so the man could really remember him!  He’s from Serbia and all of 22. He was very personable and comped us cake for dessert.  We will definitely go back and try some of the ham and cheese selections.   

Note: Photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Manhattan: American Art & Fashion

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Winslow Homer:  Crosscurrents (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

We made two visits to the Met Museum this month.  The first was to see the very large and comprehensive exhibit of Winslow Homer’s work.  A New Englander by birth, Homer (1836-1910) lived in Boston and then in 1859 moved to New York.  Although associated rightfully with his portrayals of the sea, his work was much more than that.  He captured returning soldiers from the Civil War, both Black and white, and showed women at work or enjoying a day at the beach.  Added to that are his luminous watercolors depicting scenes from his trips to the Bahamas, Florida, and other islands.  It’s a wonderful exhibit!

Here are a few examples.

Early Morning after a Storm at Sea, 1900-1903
Eagle Head, Manchester Massachusetts, 1870
Old Mill (The Morning Bell), 1871

In America:  An Anthology of Fashion (Metropolitan Museum of Art)

On our second visit, the Chief Penguin re-visited the Homer exhibit and spent time in the Annenberg Wing admiring the simply marvelous collection of Impressionist paintings.  I missed seeing the first part of the Costume Institute’s fashion exhibit for 2021 but decided to tour this year’s part two which is housed in the American Wing.  

I had never spent any time in this section, but it consists of a series of period rooms from the early 19th century to the 1950’s.  For this exhibit, various curators have dressed manikins in fashions related to the rooms’ furnishings from Shaker Retiring Room to Richmond parlor to 20th century ballroom.  This is not as showy exhibit as some of those of previous years, but interesting, nonetheless.  With the right inclination, one could spend a fair bit of time reading all the information about the setting of the room itself and then the fashion-related labels. 

Shaker Woman, early 1800’s
High style in the 1950’s

Note: Header photo is Winslow Homer’s Oranges on a Branch, 1885. Photos by JWFarrington.

Manhattan: Cooking & Dining Around

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MOMENTOUS MOMENT

This has been a dramatic week with the leak of the Supreme Court’s draft opinion upending Roe v. Wade.  For many of us who were of age in 1973, contemplating a return to when abortion is no longer a legal right/option is positively medieval. It feels so very wrong.  Pro-choice protests erupted in cities near and far.  This one we noted in Union Square.

Union Square protesters

FUN WITH KIDS IN THE KITCHEN

Our granddaughters have both developed an interest in cooking and baking.  After school one afternoon, the 6-year-old and I, at her request, made mini-muffin pancake bites from the latest issue of Highlights High Five.  F knew where all the necessary ingredients were along with the essential mixing bowl, measuring cups, and muffin tin.  She scurried around to assemble them and kept a close eye on the oven gauge as it proceeded to preheat to 350.  

As we began the mixing process, she reported every few minutes, “It’s at 350 Fahrenheit, Grandma,” and then, “It’s still at 350 Fahrenheit,” always precisely including the word Fahrenheit.  The mini muffins use pancake mix as the base with the addition of the requisite milk and eggs and then some cut up blueberries and strawberries.  Once baked, they were served with maple syrup for dipping.  A sweet success!

Mini-muffin bites

Her older sister, E is becoming an accomplished cook.  Her current bible is Melissa Clark’s Kid in the Kitchen, and she has already tried several recipes.  The other evening, she boiled the pasta and made a sauce of cherry tomatoes, olive oil, and slivers of garlic.  After adding the sauce to the pasta, it was topped with dollops of ricotta cheese along with fresh basil and mint.  Delectable and a pretty dish besides!  The Chief Penguin and I were eager tasters for both creations!

Fusilli with cherry tomato sauce & fresh basil and mint

DINING AROUND—MOSTLY FISH

Seamore’s

Seamore’s on the Upper East Side is the newest location of a local restaurant chain.  It’s an airy, two-level space with white walls and light wood tables.  A blackboard on one wall outlines the shape and characteristics of some of the fish they serve.  Once we were seated at a fine table (we rejected the hostess’ initial attempt to seat us in the back next to the restrooms), we were pleased with our friendly waitress and the very good service.  

Since we’d had a large lunch, we stuck to the smaller items on the menu.  Between us ordered the fried cauliflower appetizer, clam chowder, and the shrimp tacos on corn tortillas. A place to return to with an appetite!

Avra Madison Estiatorio

Friends introduced us to this upscale Greek seafood and fish restaurant.  It has one of the most beautiful outside dining areas.  Inside is an expansive two-level space with lots of activity and noise on the main bar level.  Fortunately, we were seated downstairs where the tables were set apart, and we could easily converse.  

Whole fish is their specialty, and the prices reflect that.  We shared a bunch of appetizers: zucchini chips, spreads, and hummus, and we all ordered the fish of the day which was fillets of dorade accompanied by roasted Brussels sprouts.  Everything was delicious.  This is a great place for special occasions and expense account dining!

Disappointing Reprise

Tue Thai Food used to be a favorite West Village spot for an inexpensive lunch.  We hadn’t been back since pre-Covid and were desirous of the same good food.  This time the curries were thin and watery and somewhat bland, while the whole ambience was shabbier than we remembered.  We wonder if they have a new chef or if a lack of business has made them lax.  

Manhattan & Covid, Dec. 2021

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MANHATTAN–THAT WAS THE WEEK THAT WAS

Full of optimism for being able to celebrate Christmas this year in person with our son and family, we flew to New York a week ago.  The first few days were lovely—spring-like temperatures hovering around 60, dining in favorite eateries, and spending time after school with our marvelous granddaughters.  As we watched the Covid-19 case numbers climb and observed the long, around-the-corner lines at Covid testing sites, we became a bit concerned.  

We stayed off the subway, we did not go to Rockefeller Center to see the always beautiful Christmas tree, and we did not get tickets for any museums.  Instead, we restricted ourselves to eating dinner indoors, often early, at our handful of favorite restaurants.  Going early, we avoided large numbers of diners and generally got great service.  One day we walked 60 plus blocks for exercise, and on another, we strolled in a lightly populated Central Park.  We were staying in comfortable digs, so reading and watching the occasional new film kept us occupied.  

Yesterday, that changed when a family member tested positive for Covid.  More concerned, and feeling vulnerable at our ages, we made the hard decision to leave town and return to Florida. Alas, it will be another Christmas shared via Zoom.  Perhaps 2022 will be better and next Christmas, we can once more celebrate in person!  In the meantime, we prize our current good health and will do what we can to preserve it. 

COMPELLING NEW FILM

The Power of the Dog (Netflix)

Peter, Phil, George, Rose (theplaylist.net)

Jane Campion’s new film has been getting a lot of attention and mostly praise.  Set in Montana in 1925, it’s the story of two brothers, Phil and George, and George’s new wife Rose and son Peter.  George is the owner of the ranch and seemingly ineffectual while Phil is “cowboy” personified and a mean cuss.  Phil berates his brother regularly, calling him “Fatso.”  When George marries Rose, Phil turns his venom on her and initially bullies medical student and aspiring surgeon Peter.  

Benedict Cumberbatch is brilliant with a commanding presence as Phil.  He seems to be the one in charge and in control of events.  Phil teaches Peter how to ride and makes him a rawhide rope in scenes with erotic undercurrents.  How the relations between these four characters play out is shown in acts like a play, and the ending will surprise you.  Only in retrospect did I appreciate the clues that were laid out from the beginning.  Peter is a much more complex individual than he appears as is Phil.  

The cinematography is gorgeous showcasing the wide-open spaces of the west and the smallness of one man against such a vast horizon.  I look forward to watching this film a second time.  Highly recommended!

NEW FICTION–SUCCESSOR TO THE MORLAND DYNASTY

The Secrets of Ashmore Castle by Cynthia Harrod-Eagles

Author Harrod-Eagles (goodreads.com)

For some of us, maybe Americans in particular, Harrod-Eagles’ long series, The Morland Dynasty, was a way to easily absorb the sweep of British history from the 15th to the 20th centuries.  I have read nearly all 35 novels about the successive generations of Morlands and found them fascinating.  That series seems to have ended in 1931, and now there is a first novel in a new series.

The Secrets of Ashmore Castle introduces the Tallant family and the sons and daughters of the late Earl of Stainton.  As the oldest son and the newest earl, Giles has a duty to marry and to marry well.  His father left the estate in disarray and in poor shape financially so Giles needs to find a rich bride. He meets Kitty Bayfield and her friend Nina Sanderton and becomes engaged to one of them.  The house and stable servants also have a role to play, think Upstairs Downstairs, and have dreams and aspirations of their own.  

This first novel covers the courtship and events leading up to and including Giles’ wedding from several different perspectives.  Harrod-Eagles has a keen eye for detail, and you get a real sense of the social niceties and rules governing behavior in 1900 Britain.  Recommended for fans of historical fiction. (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo is the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center we didn’t see (people.com).