Category: Museums

Maine Time: Rockland & Reading

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UP TO ROCKLAND

After several years of good intentions, we finally made the relatively short drive north to Rockland to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum.  Rockland is a charming small town (worth a return visit on a cooler day) and the Farnsworth a gem.  Why did we wait so long to explore it?

Focused mainly on American art, current exhibits included a selection from their permanent collection, a special exhibit of stunning gold animal heads by Chinese artist and activist Ai Weiwei (who attended Penn in 1981), as well as paintings by assorted Wyeths housed in a historic church building.  Paintings there are by father N. C. Wyeth, sons Andrew and Jamie, and their sister plus a brother-in-law.

Sunset II 2008 by Alex Katz
The Painted Room, 1982 by Lois Dodd
Rudy, 1980 by Alex Katz

The gallery spaces are all very attractive and flow nicely and the museum includes an equally inviting library open to the public.  The small museum store, which also opens directly onto Main Street, contains an attractive inventory of items beyond the usual note cards and scarves.

 

 

We broke up our museum tour with lunch across the street at the cozy Brass Compass Café and tucked into the best lobster rolls and French fries we’ve had yet this season.  It was really hot, above 90, and not a day to eat outside!

 

PAIRED HISTORICAL NOVELS

These two recent novels are set mostly in 1883-1885, one in Manhattan and the other in Philadelphia. In each, an unwed mother must deal with the consequences of giving birth without benefit of a spouse at a time when this stigma was life changing and possibly life threatening.

#14  The Address by Fiona Davis

This is the second of Ms. Davis’s three books, a writer whose distinctive shtick is using an historic building as a jumping off point for novels that combine mystery with a heroine in the past and one in the present day.  Her first novel, The Dollhouse, was about some of the young women who lived in the Barbizon Hotel. This one focuses on The Dakota, a huge apartment complex on the edge of civilization when it was completed in 1884, and which is still a residence today.  It’s a juicy read, perfect for a day at the beach.

In 1985, fresh out of rehab, interior designer Bailey Camden is trying to put her life back in order and has turned to her cousin Melinda Camden for support.  Bailey’s grandfather was Theodore Camden, an architect who worked on the Dakota.  Bailey is curious about her origins and seeks to learn more about the details surrounding Theodore’s death and the housekeeper, Sara Smythe, who murdered him. In interleaved chapters, we get Sara’s arrival from London to work at The Dakota, her attraction to the married Theodore, and her subsequent downfall, along with Bailey’s rough road to recovery and a renewed career.

The historical details on the building are fascinating, the characters mostly believable, and the mystery one you will probably solve before it’s revealed.  The book is fun–a bonbon for a summer’s day! (~JWFarrington)

 

#15  Lilli de Jong by Janet Benton

This first novel by journalist and teacher Benton is intense and both vivid and compelling.  In 1883, observant Quaker and schoolteacher Lilli de Jong surrenders her virginity to Johan, her fiancé, the night before he leaves Philadelphia for a new career in Pittsburgh.  When her father marries his cousin soon after the death of her mother and is barred from Quaker Meeting and when Lilli finds herself pregnant with no way to contact Johan, her life unwinds.  In disgrace, she leaves home and finds herself a place at a residence for unwed women, the first stop in her journey to survival.  Allowed to stay there only until a few weeks after the birth, she must decide how to live her life with or without her baby going forward. Structured as a journal in ten books, the novel is Lilli’s account of her struggles and her descent into poverty and squalor.  It is also one of the most poignant and penetrating accounts of motherhood and the love that binds mother and child.

In the author’s notes at the end, Benton describes how this book was conceived when she was pregnant with her own child and how it is also a tribute to Philadelphia, a city she loves.  She details the historical underpinnings of the buildings, streets, and institutions that appear in her 19thcentury city.  I found the book a moving account of one spirited and determined woman. (~JWFarrington)

All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Big Apple: Film & Art

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Of the many pleasures of being in New York, we love to gorge on new films and explore the diversity of art on exhibit.  We saw two excellent films this week and joined the throngs at the Met for “Heavenly Bodies.”

GREAT CINEMA

RBG

A superb film. Although diminutive in stature and soft of voice, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg is a force to be reckoned with, and somewhat strangely, has become an icon for our time, “Notorious RBG”.  The film is both a salute to her accomplishments related to equality for women, and a history lesson for anyone who didn’t live through the 70’s when she consistently won the cases she argued before the Supreme Court.

Her spouse Marty, a most supportive man and “liberated” for his time; several of of her former law clerks; her son James and daughter Jane; and others such as Nina Totenberg of NPR; offer personal commentary on Ginsburg’s life and her character.  She is not a fan of small talk and is in love with the law.  After her first bout with cancer, she hired a personal trainer and regularly works out.  Driven and determined, she is a magnificent woman who has achieved much.  May she continue to serve on the court for many more years—at least six!

Disobedience

A quiet film of religion and re-ignited passion.  Lesbian Ronit left her conservative Jewish sect in London for a career in New York as a photographer.  She returns to London for the funeral of her rabbi father, but no one really expects her to dare to come back.  She is reunited with childhood friends, Dovid, a rabbi, and Esti, a teacher now married to Dovid, and invited to stay at their home.  Esti seems strangely distant and unwelcoming initially, but eventually the buried passion and love between the two women erupts.

Theirs is a strict sect with proscribed roles for men, but particularly for women, and Dovid and Esti each struggle with the disruption Ronit brings into their lives.  Shot in dimly lit interiors with lots of grays and muted colors, this is a sensitive and compassionate portrayal of a conflict between religious teachings and individual choice.

AT THE MUSEUM  

“Heavenly Bodies:  Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” at the Metropolitan Museum

I am not a Catholic as are, or were, most of the designers creating costumes for this gala exhibit.  And I probably don’t have quite the level of appreciation of the robes and mitres on loan from The Vatican as a Catholic would, but I was more impressed, awed, and delighted with this exhibit than I expected to be.  We went to the Met on 5thAvenue, but have not gone up to The Cloisters for the remainder of the exhibit.

 

Overall, the exhibit combines high fashion, sumptuous fabrics and beading, with the mitres, copes and other garment items worn by popes and cardinals.  The contemporary gowns, along with a range of elegant black dresses showing the influence of the nun’s habit on fashion, are displayed in the Byzantine hall. 

Downstairs in the Anna Wintour Costume Institute, are the vestments on loan from The Vatican.  The Catholic clergy were not restrained in their garb—at least not until the present pope—and there is elaborate embroidery, gold thread, and many instances of amethysts and other jewels affixed to mitres and robes.  Photography was not permitted  downstairs.

This is a stunning exhibit and deserves attention.  It runs into early October.

Note:  Cover image of Justice Ginsburg is an AP photo from motherjones.com; all other photos by JWFarrington.

Manhattan Jaunts

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This week we’ve had some new adventures including a tour of a small historic museum, a jaunt over to Roosevelt Island, time in Central Park with our younger granddaughter, and even a film.  All food for body and mind as some days we’ve racked up 20,000+ steps!

HOUSE MUSEUM
Mount Vernon Museum and Garden is a former carriage house for a large house across the street. When the main house was destroyed by fire, the carriage house became a day hotel for seven years from 1826 to 1833. Today you can tour the house with a guide and see both furnishings and art from that early period.  

Most visits begin with a 12 minute video which explores the history of New York City and New York State in the 1820’s and 30’s including the building of the Erie Canal. The video is very well done and really gives a sense of all that was happening then. The population of New York during that time grew to about 300,000, but was all centered below 14th Street. The hotel at E. 61st Street was in the country and offered an escape from the noise and busyness downtown.

ROOSEVELT ISLAND
So near yet so far. Roosevelt Island is officially part of the borough of Manhattan, but it’s a world apart. Quiet, pastoral in parts, with few shopping and dining amenities.  But it’s also the site of Cornell University’s new tech campus, and the coming influx of graduate students will undoubtedly bring new energy and new eateries.

The island is connected to the city by a stop on the F subway line, but the more fun and picturesque way to arrive is by the tram from 59th Street.  Hovering above and alongside the Queensboro Bridge, it offers stunning views of the bridge itself, the city skyline and the water below.  The ride is just 4 minutes and is the price of one subway ride.  

We went over by tram on a lovely afternoon and enjoyed walking the river promenade, admiring the lingering cherry blossoms, scouting out baby goslings in Southpoint Park, and surveying Cornell’s striking new buildings.  The small visitors’ center also sells an informative map for just $1.

We saw only a few other pedestrians and even fewer cars or trucks. We would have liked to explore the Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park at the far end, but it’s closed on Tuesdays and it was Tuesday.  

Remains of Smallpox Hospital

A couple of historic buildings remain such as the shell of the Smallpox Hospital built in 1854 and the handsome and restored Strecker Laboratory (1892), now a power substation for two subway lines.  I definitely recommend this as a most pleasurable afternoon’s outing—a short jaunt away from Manhattan’s hustle and bustle!

WATER AND MUD
We spent a recent morning in Central Park with our two-year old granddaughter experiencing the Brooklyn Forest program for toddlers.  Developed in Brooklyn initially, it’s a gentle program that lets children play with sticks and stones, make mud pies in pails, and drop leaves, twigs and stones into a small stream.  Snacks take the form of apple slices, red tea, and warm bread.

The activity takes place in several different parts of the park (The Ramble) and ends with a round of songs with hand motions. Two teachers lead, but in a very non-directed way so that the children (about nine of them this time) with their parent or nanny discover things at their own pace.

WESTERN FILM

The Rider is a beautifully photographed film set in the vast expanse of North Dakota.  It’s the story of a young rodeo rider, Brady, who suffers a serious head injury which prevents him from doing what he loves best.  A blend of fact and fiction and feeling like a documentary, it stars the real Brady and his own father and mentally challenged sister.  There are some lovely scenes of Brady training a young horse as well as scenes of him with his cowboy friends around a campfire.  We see his recovery, his frustration with his physical limitations, and his efforts in a new job stocking shelves in a supermarket.

I did not realize until after the film was over that it wasn’t actors playing the key roles, but Brady and his family taking on this version of themselves.  Interestingly, the director is a woman, Chloe Zhao, from Beijing. The beginning is a bit slow as the scene is set and everyone introduced, but then it picks up.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington.

Tidy Tidbits: Art & Books

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IDYLLIC ST. PETERSBURG

With the incentive of an evening event in St. Petersburg, the Chief Penguin and I decided to drive up early and do a bit of exploration.  We had whizzed by the city exits in the past, and once, years ago, we stayed at the famous pink palace hotel on St. Pete Beach, but had never ventured into town.  We only explored a small part of the waterfront overlooking Tampa Bay, but we were charmed!  It was a perfect day weather-wise, sunny and pleasant.  The water beyond inviting Vinoy Park sparkled, and the nearby streets were lined with small shops and restaurants, while tourists in shorts and tees sauntered along or dined at sidewalk tables.

We cased Locale Market, an upscale food emporium with restaurants, founded by celebrity chef Michael Mina (San Francisco) and another chef, for future visits and an herb foccacia to take home.  For part of the afternoon, we checked out the Museum of Fine Arts and were impressed by the eclecticism of the permanent collection.  In some ways, it was more interesting than the Ringling Museum of Art.

We dined at the Parkshore Grill in one of their event rooms and thought the appetizer grilled shrimp were excellent and the grouper entree with asparagus and mashed potatoes tasty.  The chocolate bar dessert (not a candy bar) was sumptuously rich.  St. Petersburg also boasts the Dali Museum, a Chilhuly Center and several other museums.  We need to make a return visit to see more!

Contemplation by Jacques-Emile Blanche, 1883
Still Life with Flowers by Jan Brueghel the Younger
Portrait of a Lady by Michiel Van Mierevelt, 1615

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RECENT READING

MEDICAL THRILLER

Brain on Fire:  My Month of Madness by Susannah Cahalan

I’ve read a number of memoirs recently by individuals who knew they were going to die soon from their cancers.  This memoir has a much happier ending and is quite the adventure story.  What makes it so readable is that Cahalan is a reporter and brutally honest about what she endured from the onset of her disease through her slow recovery.  However, she doesn’t have any substantive memory of her 28 days in the hospital and so had to do lots of research as well as interview her family and friends, her doctors, and others to reconstruct how she acted during that time.

What is amazing is how close she got to dying and how fortunate she was that finally the “right” doctor was able to identify her rare disease and get her the required treatment in time.  She is incredibly candid about herself, her feelings of dependence at various points, and her divorced parents’ unfriendly relationship.  Her parents rallied enough to share in their care of her and never lost hope that she was still Susannah somewhere inside. This interview with NPR provides a brief look into her experience. (~JWFarrington)

SEA MONSTER

The Essex Serpent by Sarah Perry

This 2016 novel was proclaimed one of the year’s best in the U.K. before being published in the U.S.  Perry’s second novel is set in 1893, mostly in the small village of Aldwinter, Essex, and concerns the villagers’ belief in the reappearance of an ancient serpent in the nearby waters.  The Essex Serpent is then thought to be responsible for the death of a young man, the disappearance of a young girl and other strange happenings.  Set against this, is the arrival of the widow Cora Seaborne and her strange child, Francis. Cora is something of a naturalist and, fascinated, thinks that the serpent may be a new species of some sort.

She makes friends with the local vicar, William Ransome, who puts little stock in the creature, and his fragile and sickly, but dazzling wife, Stella.  Cora and William become friends and, against their better selves, are attracted to each other.  How their mutual attraction and the suspicions of the townspeople regarding the serpent play out form the locus of the novel.

I found the novel’s premise intriguing (there really was news about such a serpent in the 17th century) and Cora an appealing character, but, for me, it bogged down.  I finished it out of curiosity to learn about the serpent’s true identity, but wasn’t bowled over.  (~JWFarrington)

Notes:  All photos by JW Farrington; header photo is La Lecture (Reading) by Berthe Morisot, 1888.