Carolina Moments: Raleigh & More

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RALEIGH RAMBLE #2

MOORE SQUARE

We are continuing our Abroad at Home project.  You might say we are exploring our new region in nibbles. I mean that in terms of food, of course, but also in terms of how much ground we cover on each outing.  Lunch is the highlight, but beforehand we wander the several blocks adjacent to that day’s restaurant and see what we can see and maybe even go in a business or two.

Enjoying the sun in Moore Square
Cart with activities schedule

This week, the Chief Penguin and I focused on Moore Square.  This is a large square and a center for programs for kids, performances by buskers, craft activities, and the like.  A wide concrete walkway cuts through and in a few areas, beds of colorful zinnias beckon.  A low wall along one side provides a place to sit.  A photography exhibit, Click!, graced temporary wire fencing. This square also boasts a visitor’s center and clean public restrooms.

Photos are by Jeremy Janus

Moore Square was originally called Baptist Grove.  This was in honor of a small wooden church (built 1872) at the corner of Blount and Hargett Streets.  It was one of the first fully integrated churches in Raleigh and served several congregations there until 1896.

We strolled around the area, noting the brick sidewalks (a la Cambridge, MA) and the brick buildings. We stopped in the small art gallery across from City Market where we had an engaging conversation with two women artists about art in the city and election politics.  

Later, looking at a sign about historic City Market and its current tenants, a pleasant-looking man asked if we needed help.  He proceeded to tell us he had worked nearby for many years and highly recommended Sosta Cafe in the Red Hat Amphitheater for its menu’s French slant, while also acknowledging Big Ed’s southern restaurant next door.

DIM SUM LUNCH

Restaurant with transit center behind

We had a reservation at Brewery Bhavana, a welcoming light-filled big space.  As its name suggests, it has more than 20 of its beers on tap plus wine and cocktails, all to accompany a menu of dim sum and other dishes.  Part of their attraction is a book-lined wall in the back and selected new books and beautiful bouquets of flowers for sale up front. 

Ladies at lunch in Brewery Bhavana

I am not much of a beer drinker, but I did sample Brisk, a very low alcohol Pilsener, while the Chief Penguin went for a very hoppy IPA.  

We shared and loved the pork and scallion dumplings, curry chicken filled buns, and an order of the cucumber salad with Szechuan vinaigrette.  There are lots more temptations on the menu, and we must return!

VIEWING: THOUGHTFUL BRITISH CRIME SERIES

RIDLEY, Season 2 (PBS or Prime Video)

Adrian Dunbar as Ridley (whro.org)

Detective Inspector Alex Ridley is retired, but acts as a consultant to Carol, one of his former colleagues, in this new season of Ridley.  Alex Ridley is a brooding guy and a musician, still haunted by the deaths of his wife Kate and daughter Ella.  Part owner of a local club, he regularly plays and sings there.  At work, he’s apt to go off on his own, then returning to offer his cogent thoughts.  

The episodes in this season are all in 2 parts.  There’s a depth and complexity to them which make for rewarding viewing.  A case involving a former colleague and an earlier murder is especially poignant.  Compared to Moonflower Murders, which we are also watching, this series probes character, while the other is slick and sometimes amusing.  Ridley is serious stuff.  Recommended! (~JWFarrington)

A BIT OF FUN

RAZZMATAZZ SENIOR DANCE TROUPE

(Facebook.com)

I had the fun of seeing Razzmatazz perform this past week. They are a group of senior women who love to dance and who perform to Broadway hits old and new. With lots of kicking and a different sparkly, sequined costume for each number, their enthusiasm was infectious. The audience smiled, tapped their feet, and even bobbed along. At the end, each dancer introduced herself and gave her age. They ranged from 65 up to 81 years, the oldest of these limber dancers. Fun!

Note: Header photo was taken in Moore Square. All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Carolina Moments: Abroad at Home

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STAYING LOCAL

It’s October and this is usually the month when the Chief Penguin and I spend some weeks abroad:  in Italy, France, Chile, New Zealand, or even Madagascar in 2009.  This year, as newcomers to the area, we are instead exploring our new neighborhood and venturing into Raleigh, the Oak City, and North Carolina’s capital. Our goal is to try a new restaurant for lunch every week this month and likely into November.

RALEIGH RAMBLE

This week we had lunch reservations at Whiskey Kitchen, an industrial looking dining room, in the Fayetteville Street District.  

To make things stress free, we took Lyft in and arrived early to explore the few blocks around the restaurant.  

Some years ago, my niece introduced us to Videri Chocolate Factory.  We located it again and were able to check out the coffee roasters in this same building, the Raleigh Depot.  The chocolate shop wasn’t yet open, but we wandered around outside the building enticed by the fragrant smell of chocolate.   

The depot was built in 1912 to receive railway freight through large steel doors.  It also had a doorway for horse-drawn carriages. In 2003-2004, the building was restored. 

We heard a passing train and realized we were very close to Raleigh’s Union Station.  We picked our way around a bit of construction before we found a walkway to the station entrance. The station was almost empty, but modern, clean, and attractive.  

We consulted with the man at the ticket window and learned that the fare to ride the train from Cary to Raleigh is only $5 one way!  You can also ride the Piedmont line to Greensboro and Charlotte. 

Nash Square

We strolled into Nash Square, a compact green space with shade trees and perennials and crisscrossing walkways.   In the center is a bronze sculpture, North Carolina Firefighters Memorial, honoring those killed in the line of duty.  Plaques along a low brick wall around the statue list their names.  The work was dedicated in 2006.

Close-up of firefighters memorial

The square is named for Abner Nash, who served during the Revolutionary War from 1780-1781 as the state’s second governor and subsequently as a member of the Second Continental Congress.

Lunch at Whiskey Kitchen met all our requirements.  

Friendly service and delicious food in an attractive setting.  We both ordered the day’s special blackened mahi sandwich and had a side of cole slaw or a green salad.  We also sampled one of the wines on offer.

On Martin and Davie Streets, we discovered several other restaurants we want to try.  Across from Videri Chocolate is The Pit, a barbeque joint, and farther on in The Dillon are both La Terrazza and Barcelona.  La Terrazza is on the 9th floor and has an indoor seating area and an expansive terrace overlooking Raleigh’s skyline.  

Raleigh skyline from The Dillon 9th floor

This restaurant is only open in the evenings, but worth a return visit.  Down at street level, Barcelona Wine Bar serves tapas at night and is open for brunch on the weekends.  It beckons us to make a date soon!

READING:  ESCAPING ON THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI

James by Percival Everett

Author Everett (spectator.co.uk)

Percival Everett has written several notable novels, so I was surprised that I had not encountered his writing until now.  James is a re-telling of the Adventures of Huckleberry Finn by Mark Twain, but from Jim’s perspective.  It is funny, perceptive, and a searing depiction of how one person’s appearance (be he be born Black or wearing “white face” over black skin) determines how that person is treated.

Knowing he is to be sold and moved to New Orleans, away from his wife and daughter, Jim runs away.  Huck, who was taken in by the Widow Watson and whose father is mean and nasty, also escapes.  Huck finds Jim and the two of them travel on the Mississippi River together, mostly by night, hiding by day, and catching catfish to eat.  Jim has multiple reasons to need to escape; boy Huck is mainly fleeing his violent father.  

They have adventures together and then get separated.  Jim makes a friend, Norman, who appears white and pretends to own Jim.  One of the funniest moments in the book is when Jim is recruited by a troupe of white men who perform in Black Face.  Their faces need blackening, while Jim needs some whitening around the eyes.  

Overall, it is a captivating and stunning portrayal of Jim, self-dubbed James, who endures physical and emotional brutality, while cherishing books.  The gift of a pencil enables him to begin to write his own life story.  Highly recommended and one of the best books I’ve read this year, it is a finalist for the Booker Prize. If I were a high school teacher, I’d assign in my English classes.

Readers may also be interested that Everett is the author of Erasure, the novel on which the Academy Award nominated film American Fiction is based.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.). Header photo is a sign in the Raleigh train station.

Carolina Comments: Having Fun!

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KINDS OF FUN

With all the tension in the world and around the upcoming election, it can be helpful to have an outlet that distracts us, makes us laugh, or gets us up and moving around. This week, you get a TV series, a fun novel, and Olympics for the mature set.

ADVENTURES IN WINE MAKING, KIWI STYLE

Under the Vines, Season 3 (Prime Video)

William, Louis, & Daisy (primevideo.com)

In this latest season of Under the Vines, Daisy and Louis, co-inheritors of Oakley Wines, are challenged by the arrival of obnoxious William, who claims to own part of the winery.  Their focus is on scheming both legally and otherwise to get him to leave, while Daisy plans her upcoming wedding.  

The supporting cast includes the mostly silent, but talented winemaker Tippy, their local friends Nic and Vic who are awaiting the arrival of twins, and Gus, who returns when his relationship with movie start Griff collapses.  Add in their chief competitors Don and Marissa and the somewhat flaky Hilary, fortune teller and devotee of the occult, and you have a spirited ensemble.  

 This comedy-drama is fun and occasionally silly, an energizing change from crime shows.  It’s best to start with the first season, but I think this one is the best.  Recommended!

FINDING ONESELF THROUGH FOOD

The Paris Novel by Ruth Reichl

Reichl (austin.eater.com)

Ruth Reichl’s The Paris Novel has a bit of everything: scenes of Paris, that famous bookstore Shakespeare & Company, and appearances by literary figures like James Baldwin, John Ashbery, and Allen Ginsburg. And of course, food and cooking.  Knitting it together is Stella’s somewhat delayed coming-of-age story.  

At her mother’s death, Stella is left with money and the directive, “Go to Paris.”  She has lived a sheltered, controlled life.  She wasn’t close to her mother, she works as a copy editor, and she hasn’t ventured out of her comfort zone.  Paris overwhelms her, and Stella flounders a bit until Jules, a kindly older art collector and widower, takes her under his wing.  

She discovers the bookstore, drops in there, and reluctantly becomes a Tumbleweed, those who help in exchange for the privilege of staying overnight in an alcove.  Stella’s main quest has to do with finding out about a piece of art (Jules is helpful here). Secondarily, she wonders about the mystery father she never knew or was told about.  In the process, she samples all manner of French dishes and is pleased to learn that she has a discriminating palate and perhaps even talent in the kitchen.

There’s a lot going on in this novel, probably too many strands, but it’s a fun adventure—watching Stella expand her horizons while vicariously savoring all those luscious French meals.  For those who might not know, Reichl was the editor of Gourmet magazine for ten years. Bon appetit!

MATURE OLYMPICS

Brightspire Olympics

Who would have thought that senior living communities would host an annual Olympics?  Well, to my surprise and skepticism, four Continuing Care Retirement Communities (CCRCs) in North Carolina compete each fall in a host of activities, both physical and mental.  There are some obvious events like bocce ball, pickleball, and walking races, but also timed puzzle contests and a quiz bowl.  Residents sign up in the summer for their preferred event and practices are held.  There are even cheerleaders, decked out in short skirts and tops with pompoms ready!

For those of us, like me, who were spectators only, highlights included cheering the arrival of the other teams midst band music, the opening parade of all the competitors (lead athlete with a torch, of course), chair dancing and line dancing performances, and witnessing the nail-biting last round of the quiz bowl competition.  A spirit of fun and camaraderie reigned all day at Glenaire.  It was hard not to get caught up in it!

Showcasing Olympic smiles

Note: Unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Carolina Comments: Park, Drama, & Book

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OUT AND ABOUT:  POCKET PARK IN CARY

Kay Struffolino Park

The Meeting Place

Initially, this parklet on the edge of downtown was named “Meeting Place Park” for the sculpture in its center. Later it was renamed in honor of Kay Struffolino, a long-time Cary resident and active volunteer with the town’s parks and recreation and the cultural arts. 

The Meeting Place is a ceramic sculpture house by Danish artist Nina Hole (1941-2016) commissioned by the town.  Building and firing it involved 36 volunteers and 175 hours over three weeks from mid-October to early November 2012.  

From the town website: Her method of using slabs as modular building blocks enable her to make very larger sculptures which she raku fires in situ wrapping the structure in a blanket of high temperature refractory fabric that acts as the kiln during the firing. She uses a number of assistants and considers the process, including the stimulating communal experience of working with a group of people, as important as the final product. Fired through the night, the spectacular effect of the glowing form as it is unwrapped is the peak moment of the event. 

Kay Struffolino Park

VIEWING: A BROTHEL IN WARTIME

Madame K (Prime Video & PBS)

Mr. Metsla and Mrs. Kukk (rmpbs.org)

In this dramatic series, a group of young women with diverse backgrounds work in an elite brothel run by Mrs. Kukk aka Madame K.  The setting is an elegant villa in Tallinn, Estonia, beginning in October 1939.  Foreign Ministry Counselor, Mr. Metsla, friend and suitor to Mrs. K., is instrumental in moving the brothel to this house.  Their clients include Baltic Germans and then high-ranking Russians.  New girls are added, the war intensifies, dark secrets are revealed, and events at hand take on a deeper, somber tone.  

The 10-part series is in Estonian with subtitles and presents yet another facet and face of WWII. Recommended!

READING:  CARRYING ON AFTER A SUDDEN DEATH

Us, After:  A Memoir of Love and Suicide by Rachel Zimmerman

When Rachel Zimmerman’s 50-year-old husband, without any warning, jumped off a bridge, she was both devastated and worried for her two daughters, ages 8 and 11.  Seth was a noted and driven robotics professor; Zimmerman a seasoned reporter who worked for the Wall St. Journal at one time. 

Trained to be observant, Zimmerman becomes hyper focused on looking for answers to why he did it: contacting experts, raising many questions, and, along the way, excavating the layers of their courtship and their marriage.  Simultaneously, she embraces parenthood and seeks to be both mother and father to her girls.  

In part, the book is an exploration of one’s public persona versus one’s private self, Seth’s especially, but also her own.  A no-holds-barred discussion of their lives, it describes how she and her resilient girls re-surface and re-engage with the world.  It is raw reading at points, but ultimately uplifting as this threesome moves forward. (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo is a close-up of the sculpture in Kay Struffolino Park. All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)