This morning was cool with bright sun to start. We headed for the garden with stops along the way to take photos of the cathedral and other sites under blue skies. It was cloudy and very windy later on.
A professor of medicine and botany at Uppsala University, Carl Linnaeus (1707-1748) created a new system of classification for plants and then later animals. His naming system is used all over the world, including at the California Academy of Sciences where I initially worked in its research library.
The Linnaeus Garden, known as the Uppsala University Botanical Garden, was originally planned in 1655 by Olof Rudbeck and even in that day was a noted botanical garden in Europe. A catastrophic fire in Uppsala in 1702 destroyed much of the garden, but when Linnaeus arrived as a young botanist, he had free rein to rehabilitate it and created his sexual classification system for plants.
The first garden became too small, and Linnaeus’ son and one of his fans convinced the king to donate the gardens of Uppsala Castle to the university. These grounds soon became a park and it wasn’t until 1917 that the Swedish Linnaeus Society, using Carl Linnaeus’ descriptions and lists of plants, recreated the garden mostly as it had been in 1745. Today it includes only the 1,000+ species cultivated in Linnaeus’ time and is once again part of the university.
Annuals and biennials in the Annual Parterre are arranged in 44 beds in narrow rows. They are not closely cropped or confined. Rather, many are very tall or spread out often overlapping with the next variety.
In his day, Linnaeus included some exotic animals in the garden: parrots, goldfish, a tame raccoon, and several monkeys. To accommodate the latter, there are a series of monkey houses or huts atop poles. Attached to each pole is an iron rod and while the monkeys were chained to the pole, they could exit their huts and scamper up and down the rod.
DINING IN UPPSALA—ETHNIC VARIETY
O’Neill’s Traditional Irish Pub
O’Neill’s is our friend’s favorite pub, and we enjoyed dinner here on our first night. The Chief Penguin and I ordered lightly, chicken club sandwich for me and seared king prawns for him, while Josh, who hadn’t eaten much all day, had the braised lamb shank with root vegetables. The guys enjoyed a local beer, while I sampled a local cider. All perfect for this long first day!
Ristorante Villa Romana
Lunch today was at a small Italian restaurant, Villa Romana. The menu has pizzas and the expected pasta dishes such as bucatini carbonara and lasagna, but each with a Swedish twist. This being Sweden, you can also order a classic dish of salmon with dill over white potatoes. You order at the counter and it’s delivered to your table. This menu item included bread, salad, and coffee. Having just arrived, we ordered the salmon and potatoes which was a hearty portion meant to easily carry us through the rest of the day!
Lindvall’s Kaffe
Given the plethora of bakeries, I thought I should include this neighborhood konditori where we purchased some filled cookies (citron and chocolate) and two berry tarts to take away. Lindvall’s cases were filled with lots of temptations for dessert or breakfast, and these were a tasty addition to our afternoon tea break.
In the 1980’s and 90’s, the Chief Penguin made many trips to Sweden and Denmark for conferences and collaborations with scientific colleagues. Uppsala was one of the places visited most often and Josh, a professor at the university, became both a research partner and a personal friend. In June 1984, we both visited when the university awarded CP an honorary doctorate. It was almost summer solstice, it never seemed to get dark, and the degree ceremony was capped with a white tie gala that evening.
In 1991, our son and I with CP began and ended a cruise to Helsinki and St. Petersburg with time in Uppsala. This year we are back again to join friends and his university colleagues in celebrating Josh’s 80th birthday.
Uppsala is an old city and its public research university dates to the 15th century. It’s the oldest university in Sweden and in Scandinavia.
Dominating the city skyline is Uppsala Cathedral, the national church of Sweden in the Lutheran tradition. And running through the center of the city is the Fyris River.
TODAY’S FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Bicycles, bridges, and bakeries. These three things struck me as we took a long walk this afternoon to get acclimated. For its more than 40,000 students, bicycles are a primary means of getting around, along with the occasional battery-operated scooters. Since the Fyris River runs through town, there are a number of historic and pretty bridges linking the two sides.
Swedes, like Danes, enjoy pastry, and cafes and bakeries can be found on almost every street. The restaurant dining scene is also remarkably cosmopolitan with Thai, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Indian fare on offer besides the local specialties.
I also like the historic architecture, facades in colors reminiscent of Rome: apricot, golden yellow, burnt sienna, and orange. Attractive in summer, but especially welcome in the darker days of winter when sunlight is scarce.
Here are two books I read recently. One is literary fiction by an author I know from previous works. The other is a romance which is clever, humorous, and just fun. The Chief Penguin and I also made our second visit to the botanical garden this week, so I offer a few comments on it and their new sculptures.
WAR’S AFTERMATH: GRITTY, TRAUMATIC, ISOLATING
Night Watch by Jayne Anne Phillips (my summer list)
Jayne Anne Phillips won the Pulitzer Prize for Night Watch, a post Civil War novel set in West Virginia. The events take place in 1864 and 1874 as various chapters focus on different characters. Principals are 12-year-old ConaLee who ministers to her catatonic mother, Eliza; Dearbhla, their older neighbor and sometime protector; and Night Watch, a partially sighted employee of an insane institution. Earlier chapters depict The Sharpshooter midst the horror and gruesomeness of battle in 1864.
Abused and controlled by Papa, a drifter who moved in them and took over, ConaLee and Eliza are deposited at an insane asylum where they beg shelter. Here, Eliza masquerades as Miss Janet and ConaLee as her maid. Gradually, they adapt and know and become known by Night Watch, Weed, a boy who hangs around, and Dr. Story, head of the asylum.
This graphic complex novel, based in part at a historical institution, deals with poverty, the trauma of war, and loss, the loss of tangible property, the loss of loved ones, and the loss of personal identity. Who am I really? Or if I know my name, what is my role or place in this now war-ravaged world?
Initially, I found this novel challenging. The battle in the wilderness section was especially hard reading and, for me, lacking in enough concrete details. I set the book aside for a few days, and then, re-engaging, found it to be found it rewarding and hopeful. Phillips also wrote Quiet Dell and Lark and Termite, novels I read for book group discussions. Recommended! (~JWFarrington)
MEETING YOUR PERFECT MATCH
The Soulmate Equation by Christina Lauren
Romance novels are big sellers these days; it’s a hot genre. Even the once staid New YorkTimes Book Review now has a monthly romance column.
While browsing fiction in one of my favorite independent bookstores, I kept encountering tags protruding from various shelves. Each read something like, “Looking for Romance, try [name of an author.]” Being curious, I followed a few of the leads and ended up near Christina Lauren’s books, an author unknown to me. It turns out Lauren is the pen name of two women, one named Christina and the other Lauren, and they have published several highly praised titles.
The Soulmate Equation is funny and fun. On a whim, statistician Jessica Davis submits a DNA sample to a new firm, GeneticAlly. They claim to find and match you with the best person based on certain of your genetic characteristics. A single parent of 7-year-old Juno, Jess is mainly focused on being a good mother and staying financially solvent. When her test results show she has a 98 percent compatibility match with Dr. River Pena, the company founder, an aloof and arrogant man, she is decidedly not interested. How their story unfolds despite their seemingly disparate personalities and lifestyles is witty, swoon worthy, and heartwarming. This is one for the beach!
GORGEOUS BLOOMS
COASTAL MAINE BOTANICAL GARDENS
Our time in Maine would not be complete without several visits to the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay. Opened in 2007 and now in its 18th season, the gardens cover 300 acres with some shoreline along Back River. It’s the largest garden complex in New England and a top attraction in Maine. Each year, there are new flowers to see, new areas have been planted, and this year, new signs enhance wayfinding. This week, the dahlias were especially lovely.
The gardens also feature works of sculpture, some on loan and others more permanent installations. Besides the giant wood trolls installed several years ago, two fiddlehead fern metal sculptures adorn one area. These were created by Shane Perley-Dutcher. Perley-Dutcher is a mixed media artist from the First Tobique Nation in New Brunswick. Copper in color, with the metal partly woven like a basket (echoing the work of Wabanaki weavers), these pieces are a great addition. They stick up above the greenery to be viewed from a distance (see header photo) and can be seen up close. You can also sit inside the fern!
In this post, I offer three books I’ve read recently. One is Doris Kearns Goodwin’s conversational inside scoop on the 1960’s as experienced by her and by her spouse, Richard Goodwin, politico, speechwriter, and occasional sounding board for both John F. Kennedy and Lyndon Johnson.
Judith Jones was a book editor who received little acclaim in her professional life for the outsize role she played in bringing to the fore literary figures like Anne Tyler and sensing the market’s readiness for cookbooks by noted chefs such as Julia Child. Sara Franklin details her career.
Lastly, for a change of pace, a mystery with archaeological and mythical roots. Meet archaeologist Ruth Galloway, if you haven’t already, in one of this long series of mysteries by Elly Griffiths.
INSIDE POLITICAL HISTORY OF THE 1960’S
An Unfinished Love Story: A Personal History of the 1960’s by Doris Kearns Goodwin (from my summer reading list)
When Dick Goodwin reaches 80, he and Doris, his wife, make a project for the weekends of going through his 300 boxes of speech drafts and memorabilia from his working life in the 1960’s. Dick Goodwin, a consummate wordsmith who worked with two presidents, John Kennedy and Lyndon Johnson, was able to translate their distinctly different styles and cadences into memorable words.
He traveled with JFK on the campaign trail in 1960. He drafted noteworthy speeches for him and later for LBJ on civil rights, Latin American policy, and the like. Politics was in his blood, and he was both ambitious and brash, resulting in the occasional clash that might have been career-ending. Goodwin also developed a close friendship with Robert Kennedy, a relationship that bugged Johnson who had little love for RFK.
Looking back on events that took place fifty years ago, Kearns Goodwin shares their mutual recollections, their years of disagreement about Kennedy and Johnson, and how the passage of time softens bitter memories. More than a decade younger than her husband, Kearns Goodwin was a White House Fellow who worked with Johnson somewhat when he was president. After his presidency, she became especially close to him helping on his memoirs and on what became her first book.
This work is a marvelous inside look at presidential and personal politics in that tumultuous and consequential decade, the 1960’s. I, like many of my readers, came of age in high school and college during those years. This trip back refreshed my memory about some monumental events and provided the messy back story behind others. As Doris Kearns Goodwin and her husband review his voluminous files, she offers up recollections and details of her own experiences in a way that is conversational and very accessible. I enjoyed too her portrait of a long and fruitful marriage. Highly recommended!! (~JWFarrington)
NOTABLE KNOPF EDITOR
The Editor: How Publishing Legend Judith Jones Shaped Culture in America by Sara Franklin
In her lifetime, Judith Jones was frequently overlooked, dismissed, or just tolerated by the male publishing heads for whom she worked. Even publisher Blanche Knopf initially had Judith doing her scut work and only reluctantly let loose the apron strings. To her credit, Jones rescued The Diary of Anne Frank from the reject pile, edited Anne Tyler and John Updike’s works for decades, and both discovered, mentored, and guided chefs and cooks the likes of Julia Child, Claudia Rosen, Marcella Hazan, and Edna Lewis from recipes on paper to finely wrought noteworthy cookbooks.
Jones was both a traditionalist and a maverick. She was deemed “a lady” and she wanted marriage and children. At the same time, she discovered that besides her early love for poetry, she was passionate about food and cooking. To her dismay, she and husband Dick Jones never had children, but to her delight they routinely cooked together and explored new ingredients and new recipes. She found her métier in the publishing world and worked extremely hard; in fact, she became the primary breadwinner. Jones also developed relationships with many of her authors that went beyond the professional to genuine friendships. These were life-enriching for her and Dick.
As someone interested in both publishing and food, I was engrossed in Judith Jones’ story. I came of age and married in 1970; Franklin’s account of the cookbook authors Judith worked with was, for me, a walk down memory lane. I was in my first post-college job when Mastering the Art of French Cooking, volume 2, was published. My librarian colleagues were ordering copies and wondered if I wanted to buy one also. I assented, and quickly, some of Julia’s recipes became household favorites: her elaborate beef bourguignon and Potage Magali, a tomato rice soup with a hint of saffron, to name just two.
Later, I put Marcella Hazan’s Italian cookbooks to hard use, and Madhur Jaffrey’s Invitation to Indian Cooking became a must purchase after an Indian cooking class. Other additions to my cookbook library included A Taste of Country Cooking by Edna Lewis and later books by Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. Jones was on the scene at the right time as cooking and food in the U.S. expanded to other cultures. She very successfully translated the recipes of these talented chefs for the home kitchen. Recommended! (~JWFarrington)
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MYSTERY
The Night Hawksby Elly Griffiths
For a change of pace, I picked up The Night Hawks, a recent entry in Griffiths’ Ruth Galloway Series. A few years ago, I read the first book in the series, The Crossing Places, and liked it enough to acquire and read the second one. This is #13 and I really enjoyed it, racing through it in the space of 24 hours! The Ruth Galloway series runs to fifteen books, and Griffiths has said that #15 is the last one she plans to write.
Ruth Galloway is an archaeologist living and working in Norfolk, England. When bodies or strange bones are found by the local police, DCI Nelson calls her in to consult. In this book, a Bronze Age body washes ashore which attracts the interest of the local amateur metal detector group known as the Night Hawks. Subsequently, there is what appears to be a murder-suicide at a very remote country farm. Add in a local myth/folk tale about a huge black dog who is a harbinger of death, and it’s a complex case with numerous strands to untangle.
While The Night Hawks is a mystery, the principal characters, Ruth, Nelson, and others, are well-developed and intriguing. The relationships between them evolve as the series proceeds, adding to the satisfaction of a story well told. Recommended!
Note: Header photo taken at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens by JWFarrington.