North Carolina was a large source of tar, pitch and turpentine for many years and around the time of the Civil War became known as the Tar Heel State and its inhabitants Tar Heelers. Tar was used to coat the bottom of boats and a large amount was exported to England. Initially, the term was a derogatory one, but later was adopted favorably as the state’s and its residents’ nickname.
We spent a week in North Carolina at Thanksgiving. We didn’t see any tar or turpentine, but did enjoy touring the Reynolda House in Winston-Salem, country home of A. J. Reynolds of tobacco fame and his wife Katharine. Katharine was a very progressive woman for her time (1920’s) and she oversaw the building of the home, the creation of a school for the workers, and the beginnings of a village. At one time, 300 families lived on the estate. Unfortunately, she died in childbirth and barely spent any time here. The house is impressive—bungalow style with an expansive main room featuring double staircases and an Aeolian organ plus garden rooms, porches, a jazzy red and white lower level bar cum entertainment space, and a stunningly gorgeous swimming pool! The bungalow movement emphasized fresh air for good health and the porches and patios are designed to promote it. There are also extensive gardens, most of which were dormant, but a few rose blooms and cabbage heads remained and the conservatory showcased seasonal poinsettias and a few bromeliads.
The featured exhibit, The Artist’s Garden: American Impressionism and the Garden Movement, 1887-1920, is a very pleasing collection of paintings. Some familiar names here, Childe Hassam, for example, but mostly not works we’d seen anywhere else. Organized by the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts in Philadelphia, it is worth seeing.
Central North Carolina has a lot of clay and has been a locus for pottery since the 1700’s. Seagrove, south of Greensboro, and the surrounding area abound with studios open to the public. We were there the day before Thanksgiving so many studios were closed, but we took advantage of the North Carolina Pottery Center to get oriented and see samples of about 80 different potters’ work. We then visited three studios and vowed that we needed to return for a full day to leisurely tour the area. As you can see, I prefer the more contemporary designs.
Bookstores for Book Lovers
I’m a longtime connoisseur of bookstores, particularly independent ones. I have my favorites in the U.S. and even a few in the U.K. In my opinion, a good bookstore smells of paper and ink, is light on the non-book miscellaneous merchandise (note cards are fine), has nooks and corners where you can linger and browse, offers a comfortable chair or two, and is laid out more like a maze than an array of aisles.
In Durham, we re-visited The Regulator Bookshop, a favorite haunt for at least 30 years. Located in the bustling 9th Street business corridor, The Regulator is scruffy in a good way. There is a side room off the main area devoted to magazines and greeting cards, an open area with tables of books and books on shelves, a raised area for kids’ books, and a very welcoming long banquette. Many years ago, I spent several hours in that spot reading to my young son while our car was being repaired. Downstairs, where once there was a coffee bar, there is now a space for events surrounded by used books and remainder titles. Overall the store is inviting and always lively with readers of all ages.
A more recent addition to my list is McIntyre’s Books in Fearrington Village (near Chapel Hill) where for ten years or so, we’ve whiled away an occasional hour or two. It’s more genteel than The Regulator which, considering its clientele of largely retirees, makes sense. The store is carpeted and feels like being inside a home. There are multiple rooms (one devoted to books for children through teens), another with a fireplace and comfy chairs, and yet another in the back packed with mystery books. There are appealing displays of the latest titles and staff recommendations along with a focus on local and regional fiction and nonfiction. I always find something to buy—usually too many “somethings!”
Book of the Week
I just finished Colum McCann’s latest work, Thirteen Ways of Looking, which is a collection of one novella and several short stories. Not only is McCann an elegant stylist who makes every word count, he is accessible and witty and portrays his characters with compassion and understanding. The title novella beautifully captures the thought processes and asides of a retired judge as he reflects on his career and negotiates lunchtime conversation with his favorite waiter and his fragile son. And I thought the last story of a damaged nun, an outlier who is revisited by past trauma, was brilliant. The New York Times included this title among its 100 notable books of the year.
Header image: Discovery Room at the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences in Raleigh
(All photos copyright by JWFarrington)
