Maine Musings: Restaurants & Reading

LAZY DAYS

Being in Maine promotes being lazy—watching the lobster boats circling to check their traps, observing the patterns of sun and shadow on the garden lilies, letting the hours slink by without any pressure. It’s also getting together with friends, shopping at the weekly farmers’ market, and exploring new venues.

This week we returned to Portland for lunch at the Blue Spoon with new Florida friends. The café is small and serves good food that is more interesting than the usual sandwiches and burgers. It’s located on Munjoy Hill in a section of the city we hadn’t previously discovered. After lunch we walked down the hill to the waterfront and strolled along the Eastern Promenade. Stately old frame houses with widows’ walks and porches line the opposite side of the promenade, several with condo for sale signs. A tempting prospect.

We also had dinner at the Newagen Inn, the place we came to stay twenty-five years ago for the first of our annual visits. The inn has changed over the years and become more elegant—the latest addition an impressive portico and re-worked entrance drive. What hasn’t changed, however, is its lovely location on the point of land known as Cape Newagen. The casual restaurant has a cozy bar area and a porch-like section with big windows perfect for admiring the view to the sea. You can also sit outdoors on a wrap around porch with umbrella tables. We all enjoyed the excellent halibut on a bed of risotto studded with sundried tomatoes and greens. The chef, a tall young woman in a ball cap, came out to chat and enthusiastically shared her plans for future menus.

BEACH READS

With the relaxed pace of these weeks comes the desire to indulge in good stories, novels that are absorbing with convincing characters and a strong narrative arc. Here are two I read this week, one definitely better than the other.

Haven Lake by Holly Robinson. This novelist is also a ghost writer and she was new to me. Set in the Berkshires in Massachusetts, this is a novel of complicated family dynamics—an estranged mother and daughter (both adults and the mother a sheep farmer), an unhappy teenager, and a surgeon fiancé who seems obsessed with his work. Add to this a mystery about two deaths that occurred twenty years ago and you have an intriguing slew of emotions. I thought the portrait of 15 year old Dylan was especially well drawn.

Silver Bay by Jojo Moyes. I like Moyes’ work and thought Me Before You was an exceptional novel due to its subject matter. I also enjoyed The Last Letter from Your Lover. This novel is one of her earliest and it shows. It isn’t as tightly constructed and, to my lights, could have used more focus and more editing. That said, it’s set in Australia at a hotel that attracts tourists who come to see the whales and the dolphins on Silver Bay. When a developer has plans to build a new hotel and retail complex, there is immediate conflict between the outside firm and the local whalesavers and environmentalists.

Maine Musings: Food, Film & Finch

After the intensely bright hot Florida sun, mid-coast Maine’s gray skies, cool temperatures, and spotty rain showers yesterday were a relief. Portland on Friday before the cloud cover was weakly warm with enough sun to say summertime. Thanks to my cousins, we visited the iconic Portland Head Light for the first time after lunching at the Good Table in Cape Elizabeth.

Later we meandered the cobblestone streets of Portland’s Old Port browsing in familiar and new shops from the Paper Patch to Abacus to Sherman’s Books, all the while hearing in the background the screechy honk of the ever present seagulls.  I know there are seagulls on other shores, but they always seem particularly present here.

PORTLAND DINING

Dining in Portland was also a taste treat! The restaurant scene has expanded, and the city has been featured in every food magazine I know. We enjoyed dinner and the ambience at Vignola one night and had a superb meal the next in the back room known as David’s Opus Ten.  Plain David’s, the front of house, was crowded and noisy so we were glad we had opted for the small back space with its short menu of small plates. Especially noteworthy were the butter poached lobster on a crispy risotto cake, the tuna tartare, and the Serrano ham and manchego cheese plate with mellow warm black olives.

AT THE MOVIES

Earlier in the week, we went to see “Testament of Youth.” This new film, based on Vera Brittain’s 1933 memoir of the same name, is a grim and unvarnished depiction of the horrors of war, in this case WWI.  Some of you may recall that Masterpiece Theater did an adaptation of this work some years ago.

The film draws a stark contrast between the exuberance of youth and young love in the green English countryside and at university before the war, followed by the dirty gray and brown of death and destruction on the battlefield in France. Brittain left university to sign on as a volunteer nurse. This was a romantic, idealistic time and I don’t believe as many youths today see war as quite the adventure these men did.

WHAT I’M READING

Of course, I had to read Harper Lee’s Go Set a Watchman. I read To Kill a Mockingbird in high school (haven’t re-read it, I regret to report) and saw the film so for me Gregory Peck will forever be Atticus Finch. That said, Watchman is a worthwhile read. The writing is enjoyable, there are some touches of humor,and one gets a different picture of Maycomb, Alabama.  I found it to be a coming of age story for Jean Louise (aka Scout). At 26, one might say she is a bit old, after having lived in New York for seven years, to become disillusioned with her father, but so be it.  Other than that, she is quite believable and carries the book. Henry, her putative fiancé, is a bit flat.  Calpurnia, their servant, is a warm and sympathetic character while her uncle Jack, an eccentric doctor, provides counterpoint to her father. Atticus is here, but is no longer the perfect man and perhaps as a segregationist more realistic for the times.

Note that there are no photos this time due to a less reliable Wifi signal which I hope gets better!

 

Booknote: Summer Reading

For some of us, summertime is an excuse to read something light or more frivolous than we usually would.  For others, it’s an opportunity to devote time to delving into a serious tome, perhaps one that’s been languishing on the shelf.  I view it as a chance to do both—indulge in lighter fare and stretch my brain with something more challenging, usually a nonfiction title.  When I was working fulltime, Maine was my time for extended reading.  Now I have more available time, but I still see Maine as a gift for long spans of reading, whole mornings or whole afternoons.

Before leaving home, I load up my Kindle with new books, pack a few paper books in my luggage, and, don’t tell my spouse, even mail myself a box of assorted novels and nonfiction to await my arrival.  On the day we arrive at our rental house, a priority is to assemble all the books I’ve brought or mailed and put them in stacks on the living room end table with another stack in the bedroom.  There’s something very appealing about having all those choices laid out from which I can choose what to read next!

Here are some titles I’m considering.  More to come in a future post.

Flying Shoes by Lisa Howoth.  A first novel about an unsolved murder in Mississippi in 1996.

Lovers at the Chameleon Club, Paris, 1932 by Francine Prose.  A novel about a lesbian and cross dresser that seems appropriate reading given today’s ongoing conversation about gender and gender roles.  On the “2014 100 Notable Books” list from the New York Times Book Review.

Mrs. Lincoln’s Rival by Jennifer Chiaverini.  Chiaverini has written several historical novels set in the time of the Civil War as well as a series of books about quilters.  Lighter fare and this will be my first of hers..

Muse by Jonathan Galassi.  A new short novel about the world of publishing.

Ashley’s War by Gayle Tzemach Lemmon.  Nonfiction account of women on the battlefield in Afghanistan in 2010.

The Secretary by Kim Ghattas.  Published a couple of years ago, this is a reporter’s account of traveling with Hillary Clinton when she was Secretary of State.   Timely given her candidacy.

WHAT I’VE READ RECENTLY

What is it like to work in the White House?  The Residence by Kate Andersen Brower is a quick read  based on interviews with butlers, seamstresses, housemaids, valets, and other White House staff from FDR and Truman to the present.  For the most part, the closer you get to the present day, the more restrained the staff are in their comments about the President and First Family, but you still get an intriguing glimpse of that enclosed world.  Each family has its own distinct personality and its own preferences and some families were definitely friendlier to the staff.

 

Tidy Tidbits: Sea Creatures & Wars

SHARKS AND SEAHORSES

This week we spent a fascinating morning at the Mote Marine Laboratory & Aquarium.  There is an attractive color brochure with a map. And blue-shirted volunteers were all around and engaged with visitors, particularly at the Contact Cove where you can do a two-finger touch of sea stars and other animals.  Also noteworthy, I thought were the one-page glossary handouts of fish and invertebrate names in three different languages:  French, German, and Spanish, designed for foreign visitors.

ContactCoveExhibits are both indoors and outside and feature deep sea fish as well as coast dwellers.  Scientists here focus much of their research on white sharks and seahorses.  We saw an impressive shark tank where there are live shark training demonstrations several times a week and also made note of the several kinds of seahorses in the regular exhibits and near the lab.  What looked to be hundreds of teeny tiny seahorses born several weeks ago were clustered around a leaf stalk in one tank. and another tank had other baby seahorses farther along in their development.  They are amazing creatures who can camouflage themselves to blend into their particular sea environment.

 

JellyfishI was particularly drawn to the tanks of jellyfish and the sea nettles (the latter I’d never seen before).  I find watching jellyfish float and drift in the currents to be very soothing, almost therapeutic.  The mangrove display outside emphasized the critical role this tree-like shrub plays in reducing shore erosion and providing safe havens for various creatures.  We will definitely make a return visit, most likely with our granddaughter in tow!

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT I’M WATCHING 

I’m really impressed with the offerings on PBS this summer.  Not only is there the new version of Poldark, but Last Tango in Halifax is back for a third season of the trials and tribulations of Celia and Alan and their tangled up families.  One aspect of this program I like and appreciate is that there is a lot of conversation in it, but there are silences too, and it all feels more like real life than some television dramas. Also there are moments of humor.

Added to this line-up on Sunday evenings (here you can watch from 8:00 until 11:00 pm if you’re so inclined; we record everything) is The Crimson Field, a raw and graphic drama set at a battlefield hospital in Boulogne, France in 1915.  The story focuses on three new volunteer nurses and their interactions with the nursing supervisors, doctors and patients.  And for fans of Downton Abbey, watch for Kevin Doyle (aka Molesley) in a very different role.  Overall, it’s strong stuff, definitely “mature content,” replete with rivalries and turf wars, and exceedingly well done.

WHAT I’M READING

This is the time of year when I give myself permission to read more fluff, or shall we say, less serious literature.  Recently, it was The Memory of Violets by Hazel Gaynor and At the Water’s Edge, the newest novel from Sara Gruen of Water for Elephants.  Gaynor’s book is a historical novel about two sisters who are flower sellers in 19th century London.  Their lives intersect nearly 40 years later with a young housemother at a home that trains girls to make paper flowers.  I enjoy historical novels in general and this one presents a slice of society of which I knew very little.

Somehow I’ve escaped reading any of Gruen’s previous commercially successful novels.  At the Water’s Edge is set in 1944 at an inn near Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands.  The three principal characters are spoiled, rich, hapless young Americans from Philadelphia on a quest to redeem themselves by recording the famous monster.  Maddie, wife of one of the two men, has a checkered family history, and has never done anything for herself.  Living in spartan accommodations with strict food rationing in place, she is forced to face her own self-centeredness and the true state of her marriage.

I found the whole premise a bit farfetched and initially had little sympathy for her or Ellis and Hank.  Nonetheless, I did keep reading and was absorbed enough in finding out whether anyone got what he or she deserved to read to the end.