Category: Restaurants

Carolina Comments: Viewing & Eating

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NOTEWORTH MOVIES

Continuing to focus on likely Oscar nominees, the Chief Penguin and I watched two recent films on Netflix last week.  Both included music, but one was intense and unconventional; the other was reflective and the winding down of a career and a life.  The films are Emilia Perez and Maria.

GENDER TRANSITION AND MORE

Emilia Perez (Netflix, in Spanish with English subtitles)

Emilia (usatoday.com)

Emilia Perez is a wild, operatic, intensely emotional movie with music, dancing, and some humor.  It’s based on an opera libretto that was adapted from a novel.  

Manitas del Monte, a drug lord with a long history of violence lures Rita Moro Castro, a young lawyer looking for greater recognition and more professional challenges, to oversee his disappearance and transition to a new life as a female.  His wife Jessie must believe he is dead and go into hiding with their two children.  His new life as Emilia is a rollercoaster ride full of surprises and twists.   The soundtrack is great, several dances add levity, and yet there is also mystery and darkness.  

The cast is superb with Karla Sofia Gascon, a trans woman, as both Manitas and Emilia, and Zoe Saldana as the glamorous and selfless Rita.  The film is truly unconventional, but I highly recommend it—if you are seeking something different.

A DIVA REFLECTS BACK

Maria (Netflix)

Angelina Jolie as Maria (nytimes.com)

Greek and American soprano Maria Callas was one of the most noted and talented opera singers of the 20thcentury.  Maria, the film, takes place in Paris during the fall of 1977 with flashbacks to some of Callas’ performances during her stunning career.  Now suffering from a diminished voice, she valiantly rehearses with the faint hope of performing once again.  

While Callas, as convincingly evoked by Angelina Jolie, is the focus, this diva’s life is made comfortable by the care of Bruna and Ferruccio, her stalwart household help.  Her relationship with Aristotle Onassis is also touched upon.

The plot line is simple and measured and interspersed with marvelous singing.  Angelina Jolie does some of the singing, but when Callas is in her prime the recordings are primarily of Callas.  It is not a perfect film but should be enjoyed by opera buffs and Callas fans.

SPIES ON TV

The CP and I are also always on the lookout for good drama and crime series on television.  We recently watched the somewhat different British thriller series called Black Doves.

FRIENDS, LOVERS, & AGENTS

Black Doves (Netflix)

Sam, Helen, & Reed (netflix.com)

When undercover spy, Helen Webb’s secret lover Jason is assassinated, her original trainer, Sam, is sent to London to keep her safe.  Helen nominally leads an ordinary life as a politician’s wife and mother of two children.  Yet, she is part of a covert group called the Black Doves and regularly reports to Reed, her handler.  As Sam and Reed and now Helen become involved in the mystery of who killed the Chinese ambassador to Britain, there is violence—shootings, killings, and kidnappings.  

It is often hard to follow the plot and the motivations of the secondary characters.  What is noteworthy and most enjoyable is the richness of some of the relationships.  Helen and Sam have a genuine longstanding friendship, and there is the bittersweet once-upon-a-time love between triggerman Sam and the upstanding Michael.  

I kept thinking we should abandon this series, but we kept coming back to it.  The cast is wonderful with Keira Knightley as Helen, Ben Whishaw as Sam, Sarah Lancashire as Reed, and familiar faces from Bridgerton and The Crown.   Overall, I recommend it, knowing it will not appeal to everyone.

CARY DINING

Shinmai (N. W. Maynard Road near Lowe’s)

Interior, Shinmai
Salmon bento box

This attractive Japanese restaurant is small, but its menu is extensive.  I dined here for lunch this past week with the Adventurous Eaters.  Our group of 17 took up almost the entire restaurant.  While ramen is a Shimmai specialty, there are plenty of other noodle dishes featuring soba and udon noodles as well as dishes with fish or crab.  Some of us sampled gyoza (little spicy beef dumplings), vegetable tempura, lemongrass ribeye, okonomiyaki (a squid pancake not often seen on menus), a chicken and cabbage bowl, and the teriyaki bento box with salmon.  

The food was very tasty.  On a return visit, I’d like to try more items from the First Flavors part of the menu.   

Note: Shinmai photos and header photo of seesaw park ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Manhattan Moments: Music & Food

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A grand tree in Manhattan

SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES: LOOKING BACK AND FORWARD

Playing and Singing

One of the joys of being grandparents is hearing your granddaughters perform in school assemblies.  Last week, we attended the winter assemblies for both the lower school and middle school classes.  Our older granddaughter is the lone French horn in the middle school orchestra, and it was a pleasure to hear her in a complex piece called Christmas Troika (Sleigh Ride.) She and her classmates also sang carols and popular works such as “Masters in This Hall” and “Let It Snow.” 

The lower school assembly on the following day featured 3rd graders in “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer,” a Hebrew song, and a hilarious rendition of “The Queen of the Night Gets a Cold.”  Adding to the fun is the participation of the Men’s Chorus, fathers of the Brearley girls, in both programs.  After one rehearsal on the day of the event, they join in on some pieces and produced a rollicking “When I’m 64.” 

After, as we awaited our family in the school lobby, we saw and heard Bill Clinton (his granddaughter is a student) getting ready to leave. I was a bit tempted to approach him, but he was already in conversation with someone else. His voice was a bit raspy, but otherwise he looked good.  (This was just before his short stay in the hospital with the flu.)

Girls and Women

The Chief Penguin and I continue to be impressed with the excellent education offered in this all-girls school.  I confess to being initially neutral to skeptical about single sex education in general.  In this environment, I see “our girls” being empowered to order their lives, challenge themselves, and lead with kindness. I almost want to return to school and wish that my school experience had been as stimulating as this one.

In reflecting on the professional roles women have carved out in the past 50 years, I keenly recall when the birth control pill became widely available and when abortion became legal.  And that day when I, well educated and working full time as an academic librarian, could finally get a credit card in my own name without my husband’s signature or financial backing.  Memorable! I promptly signed up for a Macy’s card that was just mine. 

I worry and am concerned that with the incoming administration, people like J.D. Vance and his cronies will try to send women back to the kitchen and the nursery.  I hope I’m proven wrong and that the current opportunities and progress made for women of all ages and interests will endure and be available to today’s girls as they become the women of tomorrow.

DINING AROUND

As usual, the Chief Penguin and I have dined at several of our favorite restaurants this visit including tasty upscale Italian fare at Barbaresco, Canyon Road with classic Margaritas and zippy guacamole, Wa Jeal for a bit of Sichuan cuisine, and consistently good, large portioned, red gravy plus at Tony’s Di Napoli.  We also tried two unfamiliar places and re-visited a lunch place for dinner.

Lungi (1st Avenue & 63rd St.)

The formerly named Imli, which we enjoyed in the past, has rebranded itself as Lungi, and the menu now focuses on South Indian and Sri Lankan dishes.  We and our son and family all had lunch here, and it was delicious.  We opted for a bunch of small plates which included paneer with peppers, tiger shrimp with black pepper, chunks of beef with coconut and spices, and crispy chicken with chili.  We followed those tasty dishes with some filled dosas and two kinds of biryani.  We had plenty to eat.  The Chief Penguin and I vowed to return to try the curries.

Monsieur Bistro (Lexington St., Upper East Side)

For many years, our first dinner upon arrival in New York was at Sel et Poivre.  It was cozy and welcoming, we knew some of the waitstaff, and we had favorites on the menu.  Unfortunately, the menu stagnated, and the restaurant began to feel tired. It closed earlier this year and, under new ownership and some spiffing up of the décor, is now Monsieur Bistro. 

We ate here twice this visit.  The first meal was mixed in terms of what we liked and what we did not care for.   A more recent dinner was particularly good; lamb parmentier for me which was comfort food for a chilly night and a Brussels sprouts salad with a side of smoked salmon for the CP.   We will dine here again on our next visit.

Serafina 79 (Madison Ave., Upper East Side)

Serafina is an extremely popular place and at lunch apt to be crowded with students and their families, especially on days off.  We had eaten here several times, but never for dinner.  The menu includes a wide selection of pizzas, salads, and pasta dishes.  We brought our granddaughters here one night when their parents went out. 

The girls shared a pepperoni pizza while I tried the chicken paillard with arugula, and the CP had porcini ravioli.  The ravioli are made there and were so wonderful he could not stop raving about them!  Serafina has multiple branches across Manhattan, and we’re sure to return for more ravioli.

The most unusual store facade I saw this year!

Note: Header photo of Rockefeller Center tree and other photos by JWFarrington.

Carolina Moments: Eat, Read, Listen, & Watch

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EATING: LUNCH IN CARRBORO

Last week, our Abroad at Home outing was to Pizzeria Mercato, a Carrboro pizza place favored by my sister and brother-in-law.  Some local folks may well remember Magnolia Grill, an all-time great restaurant in Durham.  We would dine there every time we visited family in North Carolina.  

Ben and Karen Barker won numerous awards for his cooking and her baking and put Durham on the culinary map.  The restaurant closed more than ten years ago, but their son Gabe carries on the restaurant tradition with Pizzeria Mercato.  

Open since 2016, It’s a casual venue with a menu that surpasses expectations.  Between the four of us, we sampled several pizzas including a margherita with delicate fennel sausage and a puttanesca with gorgonzola cheese.  We also enjoyed delectable arancini (rice balls), sauteed green beans, Neapolitan meatballs, and minestrone soup.  For later, the Chief Penguin and I took home a package of salted chocolate chip cookies. Most business is walk-ins, but they do take some reservations.  Highly recommended! 

It was also Open Studio weekend.  After lunch, we wandered a bit and then headed to the studios at the Clay Centre on Lloyd Street.  I was particularly taken with the pottery and ceramics by two artists—Betsy Vaden and Patricia Saling.  

READING: SERIOUS BUSINESS

The Country of the Blind by Andrew Leland

(nextbigideaclub.com)

Subtitled, A Memoir at the End of Sight, Andrew Leland’s The Country of the Blind is a very personal account of living with deteriorating sight.  It’s also a history of the organizations that provide support for the blind, such as the American Federation for the Blind; how blindness has been treated by society over the years, and what adaptive technologies exist to assist in reading.  Librarians may recall the early Kurzweil reader; today there are compact screen readers.  

I confess to lots of skimming as I was most interested in Leland’s personal insights and adjustments.  How did he and his wife navigate his changing view of the world?  What was it like for him and his young son Oscar?  And how and when did he begin to use a cane and other aids?  

His thoughts on how he felt in the regular world and what he experienced in a residential school for newly blind individuals were informative and emotional.  It took him some years to complete this work, and it is obviously a labor of love.  It’s detailed, thorough, and endlessly fascinating.  (~JWFarrington)

LISTENING: CHAMBER MUSIC

Combinations in Raleigh

The Four Seasons Chamber Music Festival is celebrating 25 years this year.  This music festival originated at Eastern Carolina University in Greenville.  Most of its concerts are there, but in more recent years, it has brought its Signature Series to Raleigh at Hayes Barton United Methodist Church.

Last Sunday’s concert was a treat featuring six stellar musicians including festival founder Ara Gregorian on viola.  The program consisted of Overture on Hebrew Themes by Prokofiev, with piano, violins, viola, cello, and clarinet, followed by a Mozart clarinet quintet, and ending with a piano quintet by Shostakovich.  We appreciated the intimacy of the church sanctuary setting.  The next concert in the series is in February.  

WATCHING: INTERNATIONAL POLITICS

The Diplomat (Netflix) 2 seasons

Kate & Hal (theatlantic.com)

Diplomat Kate Wyler is unexpectedly summoned and promoted to ambassador to the U.K. after an incident involving an explosion at sea.  She is both flummoxed and concerned about how she will fit in this new role, especially since her husband Hal is himself a former ambassador, very present and itching to be involved.  

Season 1 has been available for a while, and the Chief Penguin and I watched it previously.  Now we are re-watching it to be fully up to date before watching the just released second season.  Given the international political situation in the U.S. vis-à-vis Ukraine and Israel, The Diplomat is fascinating and possibly better the second time around.  

Watching heads of state and their chiefs negotiate high stakes deals is compelling, but this series is also as much about the Wylers’ marriage and their ever-evolving relationship.  She has said she wants a divorce, but they are still very connected.  

The stars of this series are the unmatchable Keri Russell of The Americans as Kate, and the oh so perfectly sexy, cagey, and charming Rufus Sewell as Hal.  Highly recommended for mature audiences!

Note: Header photo of red leaves ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Interlude: Philadelphia & More

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MOVIE THERAPY

Love Actually (free on Amazon Prime)

Emma Thompson with son (nytimes.com)

After a week that left many of us sad, disappointed, bruised, angry, and scared about the future, I decided that we needed a movie that would be fun and take us a bit out of ourselves.  On Friday night, the Chief Penguin and I watched Love Actually, a film from 2003. It has a stellar cast including Hugh Grant as British Prime Minister, Emma Thompson as a beleaguered wife, Bill Nighy as an irreverent aging rock star, Colin Firth as a lonely writer, and Liam Neeson, as a widowed father with the most angelic-looking cute kid. 

I’m sure we saw it when it was released, but I’d forgotten that it takes place in London leading up to Christmas, making it appropriate for November viewing.  It’s funny, inane, irreverent, romantic, poignant, and ultimately, feelgood viewing.  But not for kids.  You will also be hearing “Love is All Around” in your head for hours at least.  

Watching it, I was transported to another time and place.  It felt cathartic.  Recommended if you need to escape!

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE AND BEYOND

Sundial sculpture at entrance, Rittenhouse Square
Fall morning, Rittenhouse Square

Last week we headed north for a family event and had a short time in Philadelphia.  For us, this was a rediscovery of Center City and a reappreciation of how much we liked our time working there and living in nearby Swarthmore.  

We stayed close to Rittenhouse Square and spent several hours in the park soaking up the vibe, observing Halloween partygoers and dog walkers, and admiring the fall foliage.  Having lived in Florida for ten years, I delighted in autumn’s color spectrum, from muted to vivid.  At the park’s entrance corner is the Evelyn Taylor Memorial Sundial by Beatrice Fenton, sited in 1947.

This park has existed since the late 17th century and was one of five open space parks planned by William Penn. From the late 19th century into the early 20th, several wealthy families lived around the square including John Wanamaker of department store fame. Rittenhouse Square has an intimacy not found in Manhattan’s Washington Square. Here, the paths between facing benches are narrower and you feel closer to those nearby.

Being in Center City meant that a stop at our favorite coffee shop was essential. Even I, not a regular coffee drinker, think this coffee is supremely good. La Colombe. We got our fix with cappuccinos and then purchased two bags of beans to take home.

The weather was gloriously warm initially and then there was a cold spell, but we walked and walked traversing familiar streets and checking in on old haunts.  

Curtis Institute of Music
Crowds in Reading Terminal Market

We have fond memories of when violinist Leila Josefowicz was a student at Curtis. We routinely got to hear her play before a concert tour and hosted her and her family for several Thanksgiving dinners.  This year, the Curtis Institute of Music is celebrating its 100thanniversary.

We checked out the famous LOVE sculpture, now mounted on a frame for easier photos, and watched families see themselves on screen in faraway places in Philadelphia’s new video portal, Bridge to a United Planet.  

My friend Hilda and I would occasionally meet for lunch at Reading Terminal Market, a crowded and wonderful assortment of ethnic food stands, produce markets, and meat and fish counters.  Although the Reading Terminal Station is now Jefferson Station, the market retains its Reading name.  We threaded our way through the throngs on a busy Saturday, inhaling smells of baking bread and garlicky pizzas and just plain salivating at all that was on offer.  

Continuing our exploration, we strolled past Independence National Park and made our way to Washington Square and the former home of Curtis Publishing.  Washington Square is quiet and just enough removed from the Center City bustle to be peaceful.  

We walked back up to Rittenhouse Square through the Thomas Jefferson University campus.  Silhouettes of the man hang above the street, and he looks jaunty with a bit of a swagger in a life-size statute. 

Jefferson – Lloyd Lillie (1987 cast)

DINING IN THE CITY OF LOVE & PRINCETON

While in Center City, the Chief Penguin and I enjoyed some great food at restaurants all new to us.

Gran Caffe L’Aquila

This combo of Italian restaurant, café, and shop, Gran Caffe L’Aquila, is on Chestnut Street.  We liked it so much after our first night in town that we returned for our last dinner.  We sat outside on Halloween in one of their sidewalk private dining spaces.  I ordered and loved the agnolotti filled with meat and veggies in a butter sage sauce, topped with truffle gelato.  It may sound heavy, but it was marvelously light.  C.P. indulged in his favorite veal saltimbocca and pronounced it the best ever!  

On our return visit, we ordered the same entrees (yes!) and added flash fried artichokes and the house salad with endive and radicchio to start.  Yum!

Ambrosia

Located just a few steps from Schuylkill River Park on 24th Street, Ambrosia offers outside dining in cubbies as well as inside tables.  C.P. had the crispy gnocchi with squash and pancetta while I found my crispy skin salmon with arugula perfectly done.  Thanks to our friend Ed for introducing us here.

The Love

It’s somehow right that the City of Brotherly Love has a restaurant named The Love.  It’s near Rittenhouse Square and is wildly popular.  The menu features American cuisine, and fried chicken is a specialty.  In the opinion of two diners, the chicken was fabulous and delicious!  My shrimp & scallop “cacio e pepe” was equally satisfying.  The hush puppies with a bit of Aleppo pepper hit the mark too. 

The Dandelion

In large cities like Philadelphia and New York, restaurants serve brunch, not lunch, on Saturdays and Sundays. I’ve never been a brunch person, so I look for menus that include a few non-egg, non-breakfast items. Fortunately, The Dandelion, a kind of upscale British pub, serves salads and sandwiches in addition to omelets and eggs Benedict.  We sampled the Waldorf salad and the chicken paillard salad along with fish and chips and enjoyed our meal.  In addition to downstairs seating, there is a fairly large upstairs dining room that was full, but not cheek by jowl.  

Winberie’s in Princeton

I’d call Winberie’s in Palmer Square an upscale casual place.  We were part of a large group for dinner where we were bowled over by what we ordered.  The Chief Penguin, a connoisseur of chicken pot pies, ordered theirs and couldn’t stop exclaiming how good it was–from the flaky crust to the amount of tasty chicken inside.  I tried the shrimp and penne Genovese which was delicious and included spinach, pine nuts, and red chili flakes.  

The menu also offers the usual range of burgers, salads, along with fish, and plenty of veggie options. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved) except for the movie image.