Category: Restaurants

Carolina Moments: Eat, Read, Listen, & Watch

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EATING: LUNCH IN CARRBORO

Last week, our Abroad at Home outing was to Pizzeria Mercato, a Carrboro pizza place favored by my sister and brother-in-law.  Some local folks may well remember Magnolia Grill, an all-time great restaurant in Durham.  We would dine there every time we visited family in North Carolina.  

Ben and Karen Barker won numerous awards for his cooking and her baking and put Durham on the culinary map.  The restaurant closed more than ten years ago, but their son Gabe carries on the restaurant tradition with Pizzeria Mercato.  

Open since 2016, It’s a casual venue with a menu that surpasses expectations.  Between the four of us, we sampled several pizzas including a margherita with delicate fennel sausage and a puttanesca with gorgonzola cheese.  We also enjoyed delectable arancini (rice balls), sauteed green beans, Neapolitan meatballs, and minestrone soup.  For later, the Chief Penguin and I took home a package of salted chocolate chip cookies. Most business is walk-ins, but they do take some reservations.  Highly recommended! 

It was also Open Studio weekend.  After lunch, we wandered a bit and then headed to the studios at the Clay Centre on Lloyd Street.  I was particularly taken with the pottery and ceramics by two artists—Betsy Vaden and Patricia Saling.  

READING: SERIOUS BUSINESS

The Country of the Blind by Andrew Leland

(nextbigideaclub.com)

Subtitled, A Memoir at the End of Sight, Andrew Leland’s The Country of the Blind is a very personal account of living with deteriorating sight.  It’s also a history of the organizations that provide support for the blind, such as the American Federation for the Blind; how blindness has been treated by society over the years, and what adaptive technologies exist to assist in reading.  Librarians may recall the early Kurzweil reader; today there are compact screen readers.  

I confess to lots of skimming as I was most interested in Leland’s personal insights and adjustments.  How did he and his wife navigate his changing view of the world?  What was it like for him and his young son Oscar?  And how and when did he begin to use a cane and other aids?  

His thoughts on how he felt in the regular world and what he experienced in a residential school for newly blind individuals were informative and emotional.  It took him some years to complete this work, and it is obviously a labor of love.  It’s detailed, thorough, and endlessly fascinating.  (~JWFarrington)

LISTENING: CHAMBER MUSIC

Combinations in Raleigh

The Four Seasons Chamber Music Festival is celebrating 25 years this year.  This music festival originated at Eastern Carolina University in Greenville.  Most of its concerts are there, but in more recent years, it has brought its Signature Series to Raleigh at Hayes Barton United Methodist Church.

Last Sunday’s concert was a treat featuring six stellar musicians including festival founder Ara Gregorian on viola.  The program consisted of Overture on Hebrew Themes by Prokofiev, with piano, violins, viola, cello, and clarinet, followed by a Mozart clarinet quintet, and ending with a piano quintet by Shostakovich.  We appreciated the intimacy of the church sanctuary setting.  The next concert in the series is in February.  

WATCHING: INTERNATIONAL POLITICS

The Diplomat (Netflix) 2 seasons

Kate & Hal (theatlantic.com)

Diplomat Kate Wyler is unexpectedly summoned and promoted to ambassador to the U.K. after an incident involving an explosion at sea.  She is both flummoxed and concerned about how she will fit in this new role, especially since her husband Hal is himself a former ambassador, very present and itching to be involved.  

Season 1 has been available for a while, and the Chief Penguin and I watched it previously.  Now we are re-watching it to be fully up to date before watching the just released second season.  Given the international political situation in the U.S. vis-à-vis Ukraine and Israel, The Diplomat is fascinating and possibly better the second time around.  

Watching heads of state and their chiefs negotiate high stakes deals is compelling, but this series is also as much about the Wylers’ marriage and their ever-evolving relationship.  She has said she wants a divorce, but they are still very connected.  

The stars of this series are the unmatchable Keri Russell of The Americans as Kate, and the oh so perfectly sexy, cagey, and charming Rufus Sewell as Hal.  Highly recommended for mature audiences!

Note: Header photo of red leaves ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Interlude: Philadelphia & More

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MOVIE THERAPY

Love Actually (free on Amazon Prime)

Emma Thompson with son (nytimes.com)

After a week that left many of us sad, disappointed, bruised, angry, and scared about the future, I decided that we needed a movie that would be fun and take us a bit out of ourselves.  On Friday night, the Chief Penguin and I watched Love Actually, a film from 2003. It has a stellar cast including Hugh Grant as British Prime Minister, Emma Thompson as a beleaguered wife, Bill Nighy as an irreverent aging rock star, Colin Firth as a lonely writer, and Liam Neeson, as a widowed father with the most angelic-looking cute kid. 

I’m sure we saw it when it was released, but I’d forgotten that it takes place in London leading up to Christmas, making it appropriate for November viewing.  It’s funny, inane, irreverent, romantic, poignant, and ultimately, feelgood viewing.  But not for kids.  You will also be hearing “Love is All Around” in your head for hours at least.  

Watching it, I was transported to another time and place.  It felt cathartic.  Recommended if you need to escape!

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE AND BEYOND

Sundial sculpture at entrance, Rittenhouse Square
Fall morning, Rittenhouse Square

Last week we headed north for a family event and had a short time in Philadelphia.  For us, this was a rediscovery of Center City and a reappreciation of how much we liked our time working there and living in nearby Swarthmore.  

We stayed close to Rittenhouse Square and spent several hours in the park soaking up the vibe, observing Halloween partygoers and dog walkers, and admiring the fall foliage.  Having lived in Florida for ten years, I delighted in autumn’s color spectrum, from muted to vivid.  At the park’s entrance corner is the Evelyn Taylor Memorial Sundial by Beatrice Fenton, sited in 1947.

This park has existed since the late 17th century and was one of five open space parks planned by William Penn. From the late 19th century into the early 20th, several wealthy families lived around the square including John Wanamaker of department store fame. Rittenhouse Square has an intimacy not found in Manhattan’s Washington Square. Here, the paths between facing benches are narrower and you feel closer to those nearby.

Being in Center City meant that a stop at our favorite coffee shop was essential. Even I, not a regular coffee drinker, think this coffee is supremely good. La Colombe. We got our fix with cappuccinos and then purchased two bags of beans to take home.

The weather was gloriously warm initially and then there was a cold spell, but we walked and walked traversing familiar streets and checking in on old haunts.  

Curtis Institute of Music
Crowds in Reading Terminal Market

We have fond memories of when violinist Leila Josefowicz was a student at Curtis. We routinely got to hear her play before a concert tour and hosted her and her family for several Thanksgiving dinners.  This year, the Curtis Institute of Music is celebrating its 100thanniversary.

We checked out the famous LOVE sculpture, now mounted on a frame for easier photos, and watched families see themselves on screen in faraway places in Philadelphia’s new video portal, Bridge to a United Planet.  

My friend Hilda and I would occasionally meet for lunch at Reading Terminal Market, a crowded and wonderful assortment of ethnic food stands, produce markets, and meat and fish counters.  Although the Reading Terminal Station is now Jefferson Station, the market retains its Reading name.  We threaded our way through the throngs on a busy Saturday, inhaling smells of baking bread and garlicky pizzas and just plain salivating at all that was on offer.  

Continuing our exploration, we strolled past Independence National Park and made our way to Washington Square and the former home of Curtis Publishing.  Washington Square is quiet and just enough removed from the Center City bustle to be peaceful.  

We walked back up to Rittenhouse Square through the Thomas Jefferson University campus.  Silhouettes of the man hang above the street, and he looks jaunty with a bit of a swagger in a life-size statute. 

Jefferson – Lloyd Lillie (1987 cast)

DINING IN THE CITY OF LOVE & PRINCETON

While in Center City, the Chief Penguin and I enjoyed some great food at restaurants all new to us.

Gran Caffe L’Aquila

This combo of Italian restaurant, café, and shop, Gran Caffe L’Aquila, is on Chestnut Street.  We liked it so much after our first night in town that we returned for our last dinner.  We sat outside on Halloween in one of their sidewalk private dining spaces.  I ordered and loved the agnolotti filled with meat and veggies in a butter sage sauce, topped with truffle gelato.  It may sound heavy, but it was marvelously light.  C.P. indulged in his favorite veal saltimbocca and pronounced it the best ever!  

On our return visit, we ordered the same entrees (yes!) and added flash fried artichokes and the house salad with endive and radicchio to start.  Yum!

Ambrosia

Located just a few steps from Schuylkill River Park on 24th Street, Ambrosia offers outside dining in cubbies as well as inside tables.  C.P. had the crispy gnocchi with squash and pancetta while I found my crispy skin salmon with arugula perfectly done.  Thanks to our friend Ed for introducing us here.

The Love

It’s somehow right that the City of Brotherly Love has a restaurant named The Love.  It’s near Rittenhouse Square and is wildly popular.  The menu features American cuisine, and fried chicken is a specialty.  In the opinion of two diners, the chicken was fabulous and delicious!  My shrimp & scallop “cacio e pepe” was equally satisfying.  The hush puppies with a bit of Aleppo pepper hit the mark too. 

The Dandelion

In large cities like Philadelphia and New York, restaurants serve brunch, not lunch, on Saturdays and Sundays. I’ve never been a brunch person, so I look for menus that include a few non-egg, non-breakfast items. Fortunately, The Dandelion, a kind of upscale British pub, serves salads and sandwiches in addition to omelets and eggs Benedict.  We sampled the Waldorf salad and the chicken paillard salad along with fish and chips and enjoyed our meal.  In addition to downstairs seating, there is a fairly large upstairs dining room that was full, but not cheek by jowl.  

Winberie’s in Princeton

I’d call Winberie’s in Palmer Square an upscale casual place.  We were part of a large group for dinner where we were bowled over by what we ordered.  The Chief Penguin, a connoisseur of chicken pot pies, ordered theirs and couldn’t stop exclaiming how good it was–from the flaky crust to the amount of tasty chicken inside.  I tried the shrimp and penne Genovese which was delicious and included spinach, pine nuts, and red chili flakes.  

The menu also offers the usual range of burgers, salads, along with fish, and plenty of veggie options. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved) except for the movie image.

Carolina Comments: Novel, Play & Dinner

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In this post, I share my thoughts on Elizabeth Strout’s latest Maine novel, report on seeing a powerful and timely play, and share a tidbit about dinner at a very local eatery.

MAINE LIVES

Author Strout (spectator.co.uk)

Tell Me Everything by Elizabeth Strout

Sharing individual’s stories and lives through the seasons, Elizabeth Strout’s latest novel, Tell Me Everything, returns to Crosby, Maine, and a cast of familiar characters.  Olive Kittredge is now 90 and still crochety and direct, while novelist Lucy Barton is her friend and recipient of Olive’s tales.   Lucy lives with her ex-husband, William, but meets Bob Burgess regularly for long walks and talks.  

Attorney Bob still does some legal work and is married to his second wife, Margaret, pastor at the local church.  When Matt Beach’s mother, a former teacher and the butt of her students’ cutting humor, is murdered, Matt is the primary suspect. Bob Burgess takes the case and slowly unravels that family’s history and relationships.

While Olive, Lucy, and Bob are the central figures, their spouses, families, and friends are integral to the various stories being shared.  It’s a peek into smalltown life and a depiction of regret, grief, and love that almost everyone experiences to some degree.  

“Oh” seems to be Strout’s favorite word as it’s regularly voiced, “Oh, Bob, “oh, Lucy,” anytime someone is subdued, hurting, or unsure.  Despite its overuse, I still found things to like about this novel.  It isn’t my favorite Strout book but engaging enough to keep me reading.  (~JWFarrington)

THOUGHT-PROVOKING DRAMA

What the Constitution Means to Me (Playmakers Repertory Company, Chapel Hill)

Julie Gibson as Heidi (playmakersrep.org)

Heidi Schreck’s play, What the Constitution Means to Me, is a powerful piece of drama.  One might think, given its very relevant content, that it was just created.  In fact, it was first presented on Broadway in 2019 and was nominated for two Tony Awards.  It had runs across the country and was named Best Play of the Year by the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and other publications.

Two characters dominate the first two-thirds of the play set in 1998, Heidi recreating her 15-year-old self and the Legionnaire who is MC of a contest about the U.S. Constitution.  What starts out as some factual questions on the specific sections of the document quickly devolves into Heidi’s reflections on the rights that are or are not granted to women, Blacks, and others.  She shifts into the present and digresses on the lives of her mother and her grandmother and their experiences of abusive men.  She then shares some of her own life choices.  

Later, both characters transition to the present, and there is a live debate between actress Julie Gibson and high school senior Amari Bullett.  The audience is encouraged to react to what’s being said, and one person is chosen to be the deciding judge. 

We found the opening 15 minutes setting up the contest to be drawn out and verging on tedious.  However, once Heidi got immersed in her family and how individuals’ rights are limited, we were fully engaged.  Playmakers is based at UNC, and performances run through November 3rd.  Well worth seeing!!

DINING OUT

Istanbul Restaurant & Cafe, Cary

Chicken shish kebab

Istanbul is literally right outside our door, and we had been meaning to try it.  We went for an early dinner and were very pleased.  I ordered the chicken shish kebab which came with bulghur and a mixed salad.  The Chief Penguin had the adana kebab (chopped lamb and beef with spices) which also was accompanied by bulghur and salad.  The portions were generous and tasty.  

We were tempted by the fried calamari but will try that appetizer on another visit.  While Istanbul does not have a liquor license, they were happy to provide glasses for wine.  Open for lunch and dinner and takeout seven days of the week.  Recommended! 

Note: All unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Sweden: Dining Around

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EATING OUT IN UPPSALA AND STOCKHOLM

One does not expect a northern country like Sweden to offer outside dining, but it does. Here in Uppsala, there are many sidewalk cafes and glassed-in cafes, some overlooking the river and others just on ordinary streets. Most have heat lamps, extending both the dining hours and the days on which it is possible to eat outdoors.

Iberico, Uppsala

Entrance to Iberico

Set alongside the river, Iberico is a tapas restaurant that serves in a café space in pleasant weather and across the street indoors the rest of the time.  The Chief Penguin discovered this gem, and we were delighted with what we ordered. From a plate of three different hams to shrimps in chili ginger oil, to patatas bravas, and lovely patron peppers sprinkled with salt, to a bomba filled with minced lamb and in a Swedish twist, a bit of truffle, everything was delicious!  Add in some Spanish wine and you have a tasty light meal.

 We liked this restaurant so much, we returned for a light meal after lunch in Stockholm.  We enjoyed the three Iberico hams a second time, the padron peppers, and this time the cheese platter complete with Marcona almonds, small toasts, and mini wedges of cantaloupe. 

Our waiter, a young man who grew up in Moldova, was the youngest son in his family who got “blamed’ for everything. He lived for some years in Dubai, but tiring of the noise and bustle there, moved to Uppsala. He was charming and engaging, adding to our dining pleasure on both occasions.

Saluhallen, Uppsala

Fish counter, Saluhallen

Saluhallen is an elegant food hall.  Not overly large, it is divided into sections and counters devoted to one food group or another.  A lovely selection of cheeses in one case, fish and shrimp preparations at another counter, beef and other meats at another, and fancy pastries at yet another.  You can order items to take home or sit nearby or at tables in a separate attractive light-filled area with big windows.  We didn’t eat or buy here, just wandered through, salivating all the way, promising ourselves a return visit.

Operabaren, Stockholm

Housed in the Royal Swedish Opera House complex, Operabaren is the little sister to Operakallaren, a one Michelin star restaurant also here.  Coming by train from Uppsala (about 45 minutes), we met our friends from Los Angeles.  It’s a small comfortable space with lots of wood and both traditional and elegant in feel.  White tablecloths and white linen napkins, for sure, and all male servers.  The menu is mostly traditional Swedish cuisine, beautifully plated.

Swedish shrimp sandwich

I had the half open face shrimp sandwich as my starter, while the Chief Penguin indulged in herring with little round potatoes. 

Herring and potatoes

For mains, we both ordered Swedish meatballs.  They were little balls in a rich sauce accompanied by puréed potatoes, lingonberries, and pickled cucumber slices.  A perfect rendition of this classic dish! 

Swedish meatballs!

Our friends tucked into a beef and potato entrée and gravlax with potatoes on the side.  Dessert was a buttercream meringue confection for the CP, raspberry sorbet for me, and a cheese plate for the others. 

Meringue confection

It was leisurely meal where we caught up with each others’ lives over the past several decades.

OF NOTE

Street with Hanging lampshades

Smedsgrand Street

I fell in love with the hanging lamp shade lights on Smedsgrand Street in Uppsala.  The shades are large and colorfully patterned and almost all different.  I noted only one pattern that was repeated.  I was curious about them and Googled, but was unable to find any information about them or why and when they were installed. 

TRAIN STATION

Uppsala Train Station

The Uppsala train station is a striking long building.  It is modern, with good signage, and is meticulously clean! Finding where to buy a train ticket, however, is almost impossible.  No signs or obvious ticket machines or service counter.  Finally, the Chief Penguin entered a convenience store to ask.  The helpful man there told him he sells the tickets, and he provided useful details on the schedule and travel times. We later bought tickets from him. Friends told us you can buy tickets online, but we haven’t tried that.

This station also includes an upscale restaurant, a café and a grill.  The restaurant is a separate enterprise from the station management. 

Note: Header photo by the river and all other photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)