Category: Restaurants

Portland: Food & More

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PORTLAND—FOOD AND MORE

Like Julius Caesar’s army, the Chief Penguin and I travel on our stomachs.  Despite what it may seem, we did do more in Portland than eat. But, knowing the restaurants mid-coast are not as varied or inventive, we took advantage of Portland’s wonderful foodie scene.

DINING

Hugo’s

Hugo’s Cucumber

The food at Hugo’s is sophisticated and creative.   We’ve now eaten here several years in a row on our first night in Portland and this visit was no exception.  We began with tuna crudo and then proceeded to a charcuterie board; cucumber with falafel nibs; roasted cauliflower bathed in a smear of hot sauce; and spaghetti chittara; ending with two desserts—chocolate several ways and mini cubes of rhubarb accompanied by mousse and locust leaf sorbet, etc.  All dishes were on the small side and we shared everything.  We hadn’t ordered the cucumber, but when they brought it instead of the cauliflower we did order, they comped us the cucumber.  

Duckfat

We were inspired to try some place different for lunch, figuring if there were a line out the door we’d go elsewhere.  But Lady Luck was with us as we were seated at the bar immediately upon arriving, just ahead of the noon rush!  Duckfat is most casual with seating on high stools at the bar and low stools at counters around the perimeter.  

It is known for its Belgian fries so of course we had to sample them.  Probably the best fries I’ve ever tasted and even better with the Thai chili dipping sauce! From there we moved on to the duck and charred cabbage salad; a board of charcuterie and salmon, Tasso ham, pimento cheese, homemade pickles, loma, and buttered brown bread; and also a wedge salad (actually two large wedges) decorated with slivers of tomato and radish slices in a rich blue cheese dressing.  The last was to offset those fries. Paired with a glass of summery rose, it all made for the perfect lunch!  

Chaval

Chaval is the sister restaurant to Piccolo which we’ve also enjoyed.  This was our second meal at Chaval and with a slight chance of rain, they had closed their garden in favor of inside seating. The menu is a mix of small plates and entrees such as steak frites.  Having enjoyed our Duckfat lunch, we ordered more lightly—warm olives, broccolini with bacon and bits of orange, a young beet salad, Iberia ham croquettes, and the Alsace chicken breast entree with morels and spinach in a light cream sauce, which we shared.  Everything was delicious!

Broccolini with bacon and citrus triangles

While out and about, we also checked out a natural foods store, stopped in to Le Roux Kitchenware for mugs and paring knives, and bought pancetta and good canned tuna at Micucci Grocery, a new find on India Street.  All sorts of Italian dry goods from jars of peppers and pickles to panettone, and many pasta shapes, plus cheeses and sliced meats.  

ART

We like the Portland Museum of Art.  They do an excellent job presenting their collection and engaging visitors with exhibits that focus on lesser-known aspects of arts and crafts.   The currently featured exhibit is called In the Vanguard:  Haystack Mountain School of Crafts 1950-1969.  It brings together works by sculptors, painters, and fabric artists that were groundbreaking and signaled new directions in artistic creation for that time.

Celibacy, 1968, wool macrame by Walter Nottingham

Also on display is Open-Ended, an exhibit of new museum acquisitions that I particularly enjoyed. What makes it special is the commentary about why a piece was purchased and its significance or connection to the rest of the collection.

BOOKSTORES

And for me, time spent in Portland would not be complete without time in their independent bookstores. We didn’t get to Print this year (our time here was shorter than usual), but we browsed in Sherman’s (one of their several locations, this one on Exchange Street) and in Longfellow Books at Monument Square.   I made several purchases in each store, adding to my growing stack of summer reading!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is of the board at Duckfat.

Tidy Tidbits: Reading & Eating

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CONCERT NOTE

Kudos to the Ladies

Hensel, 1842 by Moritz Daniel Oppenheim (Wikipedia)

Fanny Mendelssohn Hensel was a talented and precocious composer and pianist.  But, she was female, and as sister to her talented brother Felix, she was relegated to the back of the room.  Their father declared that Felix would have the musical career and she would not.  In her day, some of her more than four hundred compositions were attributed to Felix. It is only recently that her work has been rediscovered.

We had the great pleasure recently of hearing a performance of Fanny Mendelssohn’s Piano Trio in D Minor by three very talented women, Carmit Zori, violin, Natalie Helm, cello, and Jean Schneider, piano.  Pianist Schneider got the biggest workout on this demanding piece.  It concluded the concert and was a fitting end to our set of Sarasota Music Festival concerts!

RECENT READING

When We Left Cuba by Chanel Cleeton

This is Cleeton’s second novel related to Cuba, this time featuring Beatriz, one of the sisters in the sugar rich Perez family who fled Havana for Palm Beach after Castro took over their government.  Beatriz is determined to avenge her activist brother’s death in that revolution and very much wants to return to their Havana homestead.  On the periphery of Palm Beach society, restless and bored by the endless round of parties, Beatriz is easily importuned to get involved in espionage. 

Discouraged by what she sees as feeble efforts by the Americans on Cuba’s behalf and quickly becoming involved with highly regarded U.S. senator, Nick Preston, she never knows for sure whom she can trust and to what degree.  This novel about the Cold War and the Cuban crises of the early 60’s is absorbing, suspenseful and romantic.  The perfect beach read! (~JWFarrington)

Exposure by Helen Dunmore

Helen Dunmore was a British poet, novelist and author of children’s books.  A prolific writer, she died of cancer in 2017 at only 64. This novel is one of her last works.  Exposure is a look into London in 1960 during the Cold War when there were still secrets and spies. But it is not a conventional spy novel; rather Dunmore focuses on the details and minutiae of life for three individuals all impacted by the misplacement of a top-secret file.  

Giles Galloway, middle-aged, works for the Admiralty, as does Simon Callington, a younger married father of two children.  Simon’s wife Lily, who emigrated from Germany as a child, is a part-time schoolteacher. When Giles falls in his flat and calls Simon to retrieve the file and return it, but Simon doesn’t, life unravels for all of them.  Giles ends up in the hospital, Simon is arrested, and Lily leaves her job. What secrets they hold close, how they cope with dire straits, and how each puzzles out what should be exposed and what not, make for a multi-faceted novel—part love story, part human drama, part thriller.  (~JWFarrington)

CASUAL DINING

Metro Diner

A friend introduced me to Bradenton’s Metro Diner, one of several local locations for this chain.  The restaurant is airy and attractive with a mix of booths along the walls and tables in the middle of the space.  A large American flag (made of tile?) graces much of one side wall.  Specials of the day are on a blackboard at the rear and included a green tomato BLT, beef pot pie, and two soups of the day (loaded potato and their version of Manhattan clam chowder).  The menu is a mix of traditional diner fare (meatloaf, hot turkey sandwich) as well as fried chicken and waffles, salads, and variations on eggs Benedict for breakfast.   We sampled the beef pot pie and the white meat chicken salad sandwich with cole slaw (one of several choices of sides).  Both were very good.  Portions are generous to very large so go with an appetite.  Our waitress was friendly and helpful and took good care of us. 

Blue Marlin Seafood

Steamed clams

This deep blue cottage is cute inside with nautical notes that would be as right in Maine as they are here in Bradenton Beach.  Our dining partner knew the ropes and had requested a table in the front room—and we got the best one.  This room is quieter and a bit more open than the back room and bar.  For a livelier crowd and a more boisterous experience, there are also outdoor tables and live music.  

Thai snapper nugz

Everything we ordered was fresh and delicious and exceeded my modest expectations.  The house salad had a tasty Caesar-like dressing, and my steamed clams were luscious in a broth that included nubs of bacon and a dash of hot pepper along with the requisite garlic.  My companions ordered fish nuggets prepared Thai style, exquisite scallops on roasted Brussels sprouts, and the black grouper (fish of the day).  We ordered mostly small plates and small salads which are very reasonably priced; the fish entrees tend toward the mid-30’s. This was a great discovery and we’ll put it on our regular list!

Note: Text and photos ©JWFarrington except as noted.

Tidy Tidbits: Screen, Page & Plate

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SMALL SCREEN

Shetland (Amazon Prime & BritBox)

DI Perez and his colleagues (bbcstudios.com.au)

We recently watched Seasons 5 and 6 of this Scottish detective series and it’s excellent.  One of the best of its kind!  Each season consists of six episodes and there is only one case that’s ongoing across the entire season.  More than most, this is a character-driven series, and Douglas Henshall as DI Jimmy Perez is superb.  He’s a compassionate man who is determined to find out who is responsible for any murders.  He knows the island residents very well and thus proceeds with a mix of delicacy and diplomacy combined with the drive to see that justice is done.  As viewers, you become acquainted with his colleagues Tosh and Sandy as well as with his now college age stepdaughter, Cassie, and with Duncan, her biological father and Jimmy’s co-parent.  Duncan is a particularly interesting character.  He means well, but is often hapless and unfocused and there is frequently tension between him and Jimmy.  But they both love Cassie and want to protect her.  If you haven’t discovered this series yet, try it and see how quickly you are addicted!

The Resident (Amazon Prime)

Nic, Conrad & Devon (hollywoodreporter.com)

This medical series from Fox is the opposite of Shetland.   It’s brash and bold, gory, and in your face.  Subtlety is not in resident Conrad Hawkins’ vocabulary nor that of Randolph Bell, the egotistical chief of surgery.  Add in the arrogant, talented surgeon Mina Okafor, newbie intern Devon Pravesh, and capable nurse practitioner Nic Niven, and you’ve got a larger than life cast of characters at the fictional Chastain Memorial Hospital in Atlanta. The surgeries are full of blood and guts, the medical crises all too frequent, and the pace mind-bending.  I watch it on the treadmill and it keeps me treading past my allotted time.  

READING PLATFORMS

I read books in paper and on my Kindle Paperwhite .  I bought my first Kindle in 2009 before we went to Madagascar for three weeks.  Smart packing and minimum weight were key, and I knew I would need some reading material for that long a trip.  I still prefer reading on paper, but for titles I have no desire to keep forever, e-books are an advantage.  

I have a card for our local public library, but being acquisitive when it comes to books, I procrastinated a long time before getting it.  Not a good advertisement for a retired librarian!  Recently, I decided I should really investigate borrowing e-books instead of buying all of them.  Turns out it was easier to do than I anticipated.  

Our library’s selection of e-books is somewhat limited, but I made the maximum number of recommendations for purchase and put holds on a few titles.  In the library’s defense, some of my recommended titles they have in hardback.  I was both surprised and pleased when over the past few days, three of my holds were honored.  I have read one novel, returned the nonfiction book which I found preachy, and am in the middle of an excellent mystery.  Success!  What format do you prefer for your leisure reading?

ITALIAN MYSTERY

Shadows on the Lake by Giovanni Cocco and Amneris Magella

This is the first mystery by this Italian husband-wife team and it’s a perfect summer read.  Set in the Italian Lake District around Lake Como, it features Stefania Valenti, a divorced mother with an 11-year old daughter who’s also a detective.  When human remains are found near an old villa owned by a prominent family and adjacent to a construction site for a new tunnel, she must investigate.  Valenti is an intriguing character and the best developed one. She’s a chain smoker, and like many Italians, is always up for a coffee and a pastry.  Focused on her job, she occasionally runs late in picking up daughter Camilla, who is remarkably understanding.  Her two lieutenants, Lucchesi and Piras, are less well drawn and almost indistinguishable one from the other. How the investigation plays out and its links to WWII make for an engaging story, but not a suspenseful one. The authors spend almost as much time describing the beautiful scenery as they do on the mystery.  Given everything, I will likely read the next installment when it becomes available in English. (~JWFarrington)

DINING IN SARASOTA

Selva Grill

We walked past this Sarasota restaurant many times, but it took a date with a friend to get us inside. Although the season is over, the dining room was full on this Saturday night.  The cuisine is Peruvian and the menu includes a long list of ceviches as well as other small plates and some tasty-sounding entrees.  Entrée prices are higher than some other local restaurants, but there is so much choice, you don’t have to spend a lot.  Among the three of us, we ordered the Spanish Caesar salad (a stacked version with manchego instead of Parmesan), shrimp and corn soup, beef and spinach empanadas, salmon, and their fish and chips special.  Most everything was very good, and we look forward to a return visit for either a ceviche or the mouth-watering beef our table neighbors had.  

Note: Text and header photo ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Savoring the Sarasota Scene

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MARVELOUS MUSIC

Sarasota has a rich and wide-ranging music scene, and some of the best musical performances all year occur during the Sarasota Music Festival, sponsored by the Sarasota Orchestra. This three-week series in June brings together music students, now called fellows, from conservatories across the country and pairs them with first class music professors and performers. 

Montrose Trio (montrosetrio.com)

 It’s a wonderful partnership that results in some great concerts.  This week at the Triple Crown concert, we had the pleasure of hearing three faculty as soloists along with the fellows, and they were all superb.  Ani Kavafian (Yale) on violin, Richard Svaboda (principal, Boston Symphony) on bassoon in a Vivaldi concerto, and Nathan Hughes (principal, Metropolitan Opera, and Juilliard) in Mozart’s oboe concerto.  But, the crowning piece in this very special concert was Mendelssohn’s Piano Trio No. 2 as presented by the Montrose Trio.  It was mesmerizing and the hall was silent.  The moment the last note was played the audience was on its feet.  

DINING LOCALLY

Durham in Bradenton

Good friends introduced us to the Central Café in old Bradenton.  It’s spacious and airy with lots of tables and a bar at the back.  Its laidback casual feel reminded us of Foster’s Market and the Ninth Street Bakery in Durham, North Carolina.  Although it was our waitress’ first day on the job, she readily went back to the kitchen to get answers to our menu questions.  Among the four of us, we enjoyed the pork chop special, a super lunchtime sandwich, ribs, and the pork tostada.  Add in a glass of beer or wine or even a cocktail and you’re set.   

SAVOR SARASOTA

Each June restaurants in Sarasota offer specially-priced three course lunch and/or dinner menus. This year around 100 restaurants are participating with a lunch menus for $16 and dinner $32.  Earlier this week we dined at two participating restaurants.  At CasAntica, where we have eaten before, we did order their Savor menu and it was excellent!  Several choices for each course and slightly smaller portions which we appreciated.  Especially tasty were the chicken piccata and the veal piccata and a luscious almond cake for dessert!

Umbrellas 1296

This was our first time eating at Umbrellas, the space where Roast used to be, but totally re-imagined.   We loved the décor—-blue walls, comfy blue chairs and banquettes, and attractive pillows. One of the wait staff told us that they were an inclusive place and welcomed everyone of every persuasion, hence the name.  Likewise, the menu is a broad one ranging from salads and small plates to entrees and featuring tacos, fish, a burger, roasted brussels sprouts, and chicken Parmesan.  They too had a Savor Sarasota menu and a pre-theater Opera menu (also 3 courses). 

Instead of either of those, we opted to share a Caesar salad (plenty for the two of us) and sampled the tasty sprouts, very good crab cake, and the chicken parm.  The latter had a nicely spiced tomato sauce, but the chicken had obviously been prepared ahead of time so was a bit dry.  It came on a generous mound of spaghetti.  Paul, the ebullient owner, was touring around the tables and we had an amusing chat with him.

The vibe is lively to loud, but we were there early during happy hour.  Many evenings they also have live music so I wouldn’t go planning on a quiet tete a tete.  We will return to try some other dishes.

SUMMER READING UPDATE

While I published a list of titles I’d like to read this summer in my last blog, I often add in books not on my initial list. Here is one from the list and one I picked up at Hudson News in Grand Central Station. Thanks to those of you who’ve already sent me some of your suggestions—I have added a few titles to my ever growing lists!

Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl

Ruth Reichl was editor of Gourmet for ten years before Conde Nast stunned readers and staff by pulling the plug on the magazine.  Restaurant critic for the New York Times and author of several memoirs, Reichl was surprised, and a bit terrified, about being approached to become Gourmet’s editor. She had never run a large organization nor supervised a big staff, but she took on the challenge.  In so doing, she expanded the boundaries of its coverage and re-shaped the magazine at an exciting time in the culinary world.  Reichl is a breezy writer and great company for an afternoon. She shares her doubts and worries, her concerns about neglecting her son when she travels, and highlights some of the egos and outsize personaltiies she interacts with along the way.  A fun read for foodies! (~JWFarrington)

Into the Raging Sea  by Rachel Slade

If you’re looking for a book that will completely absorb you for about 24 hours, this is it.  Slade has written a dramatic account of the last voyage of the American freighter, El Faro, which went down near San Salvador in 2015 on its weekly run to Puerto Rico.  Not only is this the story of that voyage, but it’s also an informative history of the shipping industry, how commercial ships today are regulated or not, along with testimony from the ship’s owners (TOTE) about the company’s restructuring. 

What makes this such a compelling read is that Slade spent time with family members of the 33 individuals on the ship, all of whom were lost.  She also presents the crew members’ actual words from the many hours of conversation transcribed from the ship’s “black box.”  There is an intimacy to her account that makes it both painful and poignant.  With references to Jacksonville, Florida, home to many of these mariners; Maine where some received their training; and Philadelphia where Sun Ship was based; this book should appeal to a wider audience beyond those attracted to the sea.  Slade is a journalist and writer based in Boston. (~JWFarrington)

Note: Text and Umbrellas photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).