Manhattan Miscellany #1

SEA OF BLUE

Brooklyn Botanic Garden

The cherry blossoms were over and done, but there were azaleas and early rhododendrons here and there. The first Japanese garden in the U.S. was created here in 1914. It is welcoming and serene with its bright red gate standing in a pond and a hilly path alongside.  However, the real highlight on this day was the span of 45,000 blue flowered plants in the bluebell wood as shown in the header photo and below. Getting to the garden was easy: we took the Q train from 63rd Street to the Prospect Park station and then it was a very short walk to the entrance on Flatbush Avenue.

Bluebell Wood

RECENT READING

Everything in Its Place: First Loves and Last Tales by Oliver Sacks

This is the second posthumous book by Sacks who died in 2015.  The vast majority of these essays have appeared elsewhere in the years between 1987 and 2015.  Even though I might have read a few of them previously, I enjoyed “hearing” Sacks’ voice again.  He writes from a deep knowledge of science, medicine and the arts, and his writing combines warmth and humor with compassion for his patients.  The book is divided into three sections arranged somewhat chronologically in terms of the essays about his own life.  I particularly enjoyed “Libraries” about his love of books and reading; the several pieces on Tourette’s, dementia, and bipolar disorder in the Clinical Tales section; and lastly his humorous and poignant take on gefilte fish in “Filter Fish.”   Dr. Sacks is a good companion for several hours of contemplative reading.  (~JWFarrington)

FINE DINING–JoJo

Every so often, it’s fun to splurge on a special restaurant, one that is more elegant or with more sophisticated cuisine.  We opted not to go to the Bar Room at the Modern on this visit, a dining experience we’ve enjoyed in the past.  Instead, we discovered JoJo, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant now in a new location.  It’s tucked in a pretty block of E. 64th Street and you enter by going downstairs to the lower or main level.  That level is attractive, but not as lovely as the upstairs dining space where we sat. 

JoJo upstairs dining room

It has windows overlooking the street, lots of natural light, and is mostly done in whites with a touch of color in the variety of bread and butter plates—clear pink glass, tan ringed china and other patterns—-at each place setting.  Even the napkins are different with a beige stripe against white linen.

White asparagus

The menu is a mix of the familiar and the unusual and highlights locally sourced ingredients. We began by sharing two appetizers. A platter with two fat stalks of white asparagus accompanied by a pool of mustard mayonnaise and a small bowl of delicate peeky toe crab dumplings in a citrusy broth.  Both were excellent and evoked spring.  

Crab dumplings

For entrees, the Chief Penguin had the roast organic chicken with roast potatoes and onion rings while I delighted in the seared salmon (served medium-well per my request) in the pea green curry with bok choy.  

Wines by the glass were expensive, but good.  It was such a lovely experience, we’d like to return!

Note: Contents and photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Manhattan Moments: Eating & Reading

Via Carota

For us, no visit to New York would be complete without at least one meal, and preferably two or three, at Via Carota.  This temple of rustic comfort food in the West Village doesn’t take reservations so we find ourselves eating at very unfashionable times.  We tried to have dinner here on a recent Saturday night, but it was Saturday, a lovely afternoon, and folks were out, so no luck even right at 5:00 when the menu changes from lunch to dinner.  Instead we opted for lunch another day and being early (before 11:30), we easily got a table.

Grilled artichokes with lemon and aioli

Some menu items are de rigeur; that means we began with grilled artichokes (exceptionally sweet and lovely this season) accompanied by a newer treat, ramps and prosciutto over a square of grilled polenta (perfect!), and followed by an all-time great, roasted chicken with lemon and herbs. 

Ramps, prosciutto and polenta

 These dishes beg lots of chewy bread and a crisp Italian white.  It’s a somewhat indulgent lunch with most everything bathed in olive oil, but life is short!

For another take on this marvelous eatery, here’s an exuberant essay from the New York Times’ Magazine about their towering green salad, which we’ve also enjoyed a time or two.

RECENT READING: MAIN LINE CLASS

The Beneficiary:  Fortune, Misfortune, and the Story of My Father by Janny Scott

If you lived in the Philadelphia suburbs in the 1980’s and 90’s as I did, you’d be hard pressed not to have read about Robert Montgomery Scott and the family’s palatial estate, Ardrossan, on the Main Line.  The house was storied and Scott descended from a family legacy of wealth and distinction marked by both achievement and failure.  

For fourteen years, Scott was president and CEO of the Philadelphia Museum of Art which put him regularly on the society pages.  And his mother, Helen Hope Montgomery Scott, was considered by many to have been the model for Katharine Hepburn’s character in the film, “The Philadelphia Story.”  Janny Scott’s memoir is a depiction of a monied American upper class in its heyday with multiple properties, horses, a multitude of servants, exotic travels, and an affinity for British manners and mannerisms.  Their grand mansions are almost as important characters as the individuals.

Beneath the polished surface, however, this is a generational saga riddled with alcoholism, suicide, and affairs.  Janny’s father was an alcoholic, but the extent to which this dominated his entire life, was something she only fully realized when she read his secret diaries. He bequeathed these journals to her, but they were stowed away and their location undiscovered until some years after his death.

Ms. Scott researched the family’s history, interviewed numerous relatives, and has written their collective story with tenderness and a clear eye.  She doesn’t sugarcoat reality, but she also states when she doesn’t know or what she didn’t appreciate at a particular time.  I found it all fascinating and very much appreciated the family tree at the front; with names repeated in successive generations this aid helped me keep straight which Edgar or which Hope was meant. (~JWFarrington)

Notes: Robert Scott photo from nytimes.com; other photos by JWFarrington.

Manhattan Nibbles: Art & Food

Snippets of Art

MoMA will be closing in June for about 4 months for a slight re-do.  We opted to take advantage of our membership and walked the 20+ blocks from our apartment. Since we like their café on level 2, we had an early lunch of paninis—an Italian one and the chicken with cheese one. 

Opus 217…Portrait of M. Felix Feneon in 1890 by Paul Signac

With little in the way of special exhibits, we headed to the 5th floor for a tour around some of the permanent collection.  New since our last time were some gifts from David Rockefeller’s estate including a whimsical, punchy one by Signac that caught my eye.  

Portuguese Market by Delaunay-Terk

I was also taken with one by Sonia Delaunay-Terk as well as The Olive Trees by Van Gogh.  

The Olive Trees

Also here are his Starry Night, some bathers by Matisse, and a gallery showing off Monet’s water lily panels.  It’s a veritable treasure trove!

Felice 64 Wine Bar and Restaurant

On First Avenue, this restaurant is small and a bit cramped in feel, but obviously popular as it quickly filled up.  The roasted tomatoes (instead of the usual sliced ones) with fresh mozzarella and basil were luscious, and the pasta dishes very satisfying.  The Chief Penguin tucked into gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce and walnuts (one of his most favorite dishes) while I indulged in an order of pappardelle in a beef chunk ragu.  Thus sated, we appreciated the tiny plate of complimentary biscotti and cookies to finish.  There are a number of wines by the glass including some special pricier ones.

Note: All photos by JWFarrington. Header photo taken in Rockefeller Center.

Manhattan Musing: Film & Food

GRAND GIRLS

We left 85 degree plus temperatures and bright sun in Florida for the cool gray of Manhattan.  We’ve had several days of cool weather with one bright warm bit of sun on Friday.   

Tulips in Jefferson Market Garden

After settling in and purchasing supplies, we spent the next two afternoons with our granddaughters.  At their ages (3 and almost 7) seeing their grandparents is still a real treat.  F. danced and spun around and just beamed as she told Grandpa all about an adventure making pretend pizza for one of her dolls.  Later E. trotted down the steps of the school bus and leaped into my arms to give me a hug. What could be better than these greetings!  

E. loves art and is quite creative.  One project was creating a museum in a large empty carton to display all the furniture and other objects belonging to her Calico Critters collection.  Of course, F. had to assist, but I was impressed by how cooperative she was and how much more controlled in her efforts than several months ago.  It was a joint effort and only near the end did the older sister become a bit frustrated with the younger one.  

It’s a routine that the girls read or are read to while they eat their dinner.  F. enjoyed hearing her new train book again and again while E. could easily have read the Clementine chapter book herself, but preferred to have Grandma sit next to her and read it aloud.  Being a grandparent and being able to spend lots of time with them several times a year is a gift and a pleasure at this stage of life.

NEW KIND OF ROM-COM

This is not the best season for catching new movies.  The available crop is not as appealing or wide-ranging as is the case leading up to the Oscars.  That said, “Long Shot” had good, if not stellar reviews, and seemed like it could be fun to see.  We showed up at a nearby theater for the 9:15 am show only to discover that it was truly upscale, and also that since it was Saturday there was no senior rate. Nixing tickets at $25 each, we opted to wait and go to Union Square for an early afternoon showing.

Long Shot is silly, funny, preposterous and a mixed bag.  First the good stuff:  Charlize Theron as Charlotte Field is wonderful as the immaculately groomed, exquisitely turned out U.S. Secretary of State.  And the scene of her in the situation room high on drugs sitting on the floor dealing bluntly over the phone with a foreign leader is priceless.  The romance between her and Seth Rogen as Fred Flarsky, a schmo of a journalist in cargo pants and a turquoise windbreaker, is improbable.  I think the filmmakers realize this since there is a very long lead-in before these two encounter each other as adults.  

But the film does turn the usual trope of the successful man and the less achieving, less talented woman on its head.  Charlotte is clearly the “alpha male” here, and that’s fun to watch. The dubious elements:  the F word embellishes or degrades every line, depending on your perspective; I found its overuse tiresome.  Also, the humor is often sophomoric, particularly related to a video used to mock Fred as a suitable mate.  Overall, I’d give the film a B, but then I’m probably not the target audience.

DINING OUT AT OLD FAVORITES

Highlands

At Highlands, a Scottish-influenced restaurant in the West Village, the bar was packed with a noisy crowd watching the lead up to the Kentucky Derby.  We were gratefully ushered to a quiet table in the empty dining room.  The very pretty coral sea trout mousse was a tasty and different starter and the beer brined chicken breast with grilled asparagus and artichokes delectable. Their penicillin cocktail was a hit as well as a glass of Central Valley chardonnay.  Less memorable was the fish and chips.  

Beer brined chicken breast

El Porron

This Upper East Side tapas place is very popular and always excellent.  This time we sampled the roasted red peppers and asparagus (wonderful!), smoked salmon fillet, and the chorizo sausages plus the Chief Penguin’s customary order of patatas bravas.  

Under the Bridge

On First Avenue at the Queensboro Bridge, this cozy Greek restaurant is also a favorite of ours. Service is efficient to brisk, but once you have all your food, they don’t rush you out the door.  We generally order small plates rather than entrees and again enjoyed the shrimp in tomato sauce with feta crumbles, a tomato and cucumber salad topped with a nice-sized wedge of feta, grilled halloumi cheese, and plenty of crusty bread.  We liked the complimentary strips of honey cake so much, our waitress brought us another plate!  Wines by the glass and also cocktails are available. 

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington.