This week brings you my thoughts on a wonderful novel and a round-up of local restaurants, mostly casual ones.
SERIOUSLY GOOD FICTION
The Women in the Castle by Jessica Shattuck. I saw an ad for this book in the NY Times’ book review section and then one of my favorite booksellers said she thought it would become as big as All the Light We Cannot See. That clinched it; I added it to my wish list, received it as a birthday gift, and was not disappointed. Set in Germany after WWII, it’s about several of the widows of those who resisted Hitler and unsuccessfully plotted his death.
Marianne is the ring leader and organizer, a woman of strong principles and moral clarity, someone who sees the world primarily in black and white. She rescues and gathers round her in her family’s dilapidated castle, the much younger Benita, widow of Marianne’s dear friend from childhood, Connie, and Benita’s son Martin, as well as Ania and her two boys who have been in a displaced persons camp. Life is difficult in postwar Germany, food is scarce, and their world views and experiences turn out to be quite different from each other’s. This leads to tension and misunderstandings.
Shattuck’s novel is compassionate and nuanced and simply beautiful. She makes it possible to understand and empathize with each of these women and to see ourselves in Marianne’s righteousness and her all too human, knowing and not knowing. I found the following passage especially moving, as many years later, Marianne reflects on a night when the Russians burned their horse for food:
“The dark uneasy quiet of the castle, the flickering shadows of the fire, and outside, the suspended carcass of Gilda’s body. She can hear the crackle of sparks and the strange sounds of men’s voices gathering into a low and otherworldly song. How grateful she had been to have Ania beside her—a fellow adult and human being, connected not through allegiance to any group or party or particular way of thinking but through the reality of the moment, through their shared will to get through the next hours, the next day, and the one afterward and through their shared determination to keep their children safe.
It is the great regret of her life that she lost this—no, that she forsook it.”
This is the best novel I’ve read so far this year.
MAGAZINE NOTE
For fans of Olive Kittredge, the May 1st issue of The New Yorker has a delightful piece about Elizabeth Strout’s attachment to Maine by Ariel Levy.
DINING OUT
BRADENTON BISTRO
The Chief Penguin and I are discovering and re-discovering that Manatee Avenue West has a number of good restaurants. In previous blogs, I’ve I mentioned Elodie (French) and Habanero’s Mexican Grill and Bar. Last week we added EnRich Bistro to our list of must-returns. John and Sue, Penn friends from Maryland, were vacationing in St. Pete and contacted us about getting together. We met for lunch at EnRich and were delighted with the whole experience.
We had been here some years ago under its old name, but the dining room was even more attractive than I recalled and very light and bright. I sampled the salmon Caesar wrap special while the others enjoyed calamari salad, the signature Reuben, and their fish tacos. The sweet hot wasabi vinaigrette on the salads was a hit. As a treat, we indulged in a couple slices of their appropriately tart key lime pie. Service was a tad slow, but wasn’t an issue since we were in relaxed mode with our friends.
SEAFOOD BY THE BAY
Lately, it seems like every food or cooking magazine I pick up, there’s mention of the Seafood Shack in Cortez. Soooo…since we’re eating out a lot due to some renovation work, we decided it was time to try it again. Years ago we ate there and found it undistinguished. This time we were more impressed. We began with margaritas (they were part of a special promotion) and crabby nachos. The nachos were a tasty twist on this standby with blue crab meat, queso fresco and scallions over a generous bed of multi-colored tortilla chips. The C.P. liked his crab cakes and I found the Caesar salad acceptable, but thought the chicken nuggets on top somewhat lacking in flavor. Other choices include grouper, burgers, shrimp and even some braised short ribs. A storm was threatening rain so we took a table by the window. On nicer days, outside would be preferable.
DOWN VENICE WAY
Sharky’s is an upscale restaurant on the second floor overlooking Venice beach and the Gulf. The dining room is large and very attractive and, with plenty of window seating, you can watch the roll of the waves and see who’s in the water or on the pier.
The lamb meatballs on a pita were excellent, our friend devoured every last leaf of his chicken and strawberry salad, and I sampled the shrimp boathouse salad. I was a bit disappointed that the listed artichokes and feta cheese didn’t have a larger presence midst the greens. The two shrimp on it were jumbo as stated, but, for the price, I think the salad merited at least three of them. Overall it was very good with pleasant efficient service. I’d happily return.
Notes: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is Venice beach.