Gastronomic Valencia: Part 3

MEALS

After time in Valencia, we traveled down the coast to the town of Denia where we enjoyed several Michelin-starred meals, a tasting and lunch at the home of vintner Gutierrez de la Vega, noted for his sweet Moscatel wine, and short visits to the Borja ducal palace in Gandia, and the 11th century Moorish castle in Denia (under restoration).  dsc01481 Shown here is the palace.  Other high points included lunches at Casa Manolo in Daimus (I loved their take on caprese salad) img_1516 and L’escaleta in Cocentaina (a really tasty sweetbread ficelle sandwich ) and the five hour extravaganza at Restaurante Quique Dacosta where we were served twenty-six different tastes or bites.

The theme at Quique Dacosta was Fronteras, translated as “borders,”  but I might better call it “frontiers.”  This was cuisine at its most refined and most creative, in some ways more of an intellectual experience.  Precise attention to presentation and form in this meal.  Everything from little puffs of cod, tuna belly with seaweed, a slice of dried octopus, to a beautiful crushed and dried tomato (the maître d’ came around with his hammer to do the crushing, one of my favorite courses), a langoustine with green curry, avocado and corn, to mushrooms served on the forest floor, a piece of completely black charred bread with romesco sauce for dipping, to a slender vase of roses with a tangle of apple in the center.  Shown here the battered tomato, seaweed, part of one dish, and the wrapped langoustine.  img_1663  img_1659 img_1669     All quite amazing!

Coming back down to earth on our last day, we had a brisk walk in the lovely riverbed park in Valencia pausing only to gaze on Calatrava’s jarring and beautiful architectural forms:  opera house, music hall and science museum.  The final lunch was at a popular bar in working class neighborhood called Casa Montana.  Here the food was comfortingly familiar looking.  We began with sweetish vermouth over ice with tiny arbequina olives in the front of the bar.  Then ducking under the counter to get to the back room (it’s a tradition to duck), we sat on high stools at longish tables for an array of tapas courses. img_1749 img_1756 From Iberian ham to braised broad beans, tuna marinated in seven spices, cod brandade, little roasted red peppers stuffed with tuna (my kind of tapa!), tiny slices of grilled beef with garlic (yum!) to several kinds of sheep cheese including a grilled cheese toast and, lastly, homemade chocolate truffles.  All washed down with three different wines, a white and two reds.  What could be better!

INGREDIENTS

I was both surprised and disappointed when the guide book to Spain I purchased in advance of our trip had no discussion whatsoever of Valencia and the surrounding region.  This city and its environs are one of Spain’s autonomous communities and with such a richness of culture and cuisine deserve to be discovered.  Like the farm to table movement, there is great emphasis on local produce and local fish and meats.  Below are some of the foodstuffs that were repeated in the meals we enjoyed. And, if I had taken copious notes, I could have reported on all the many and marvelous wines we sampled!

Eel.  I am not a big fan of eel, but we had it simmered with potatoes, garlic and paprika, smoked on endive, and flamed and dried.

Rice.  Every chef has his or her rice dish (arroz) and in addition to two kinds of paella, we had two dry rice preparations, one with mushrooms, a soupy wet rice with chicken (delicious!), and creamy rice with pumpkin and mussels and one with pork flank and mushrooms.  img_1601 img_1605

TunaTuna was served in several ways:  tuna belly with tuna rillettes, tuna cured in paprika, and tuna stuffed red peppers.

PorkThe Iberian ham was delectable, but we also saw pork in a creamy rice dish and shoulder of pork crusty with onion ash and charred quince.  img_1588 img_1479

Seafood.  Prawns, langoustines, squid, and the occasional clam or snail appeared on some menus.  I like the shrimp family, but not always the squid.

Local fish.  Besides cod in several forms and we also ate red mullet which I found very fishy and strong.  img_1668

Fruits and vegetables.  No green salads the entire week unless you count the lettuce and sliced tomatoes on the breakfast buffet in Denia.  Lots of citrus—oranges, lemons, quince—and also apples and tomato added as a flavor component of several dishes.  Asparagus, beans, endive, and vegetable tempura.

Oreos.  We were told that it was de rigeur that each chef create an Oreo hors d’oeuvre. These are mini size (think an American quarter) and we had one with parmesan and bacon (think the cookie was made from squid) and another from white and black garlic with salted nougat filling.

Now we’re home and after all that food and wine, it’s time to diet!  And get back to our regular exercise.

All photos ©JWFarrington

Header photo–Calatrava building in Valencia

Coastal Cuisine: Eating Around

Seafood, especially lobster rolls and fried haddock, is served everywhere in Maine, but there is a lot of other good food to be had too. For my friends and those who might be traveling to this coast, here are some of the places we’ve most enjoyed in the greater Boothbay region.

Harborside Tavern (Boothbay Harbor)

A familiar location with new owners and chef, this second floor space with its maple tables and chairs has outside seating on the screened porch overlooking the water and inside tables and a large square bar.  The quesadilla was one of the best I’ve ever had and their ribs and cole slaw also from the tavern menu were also very good.  From the entree listing, the halibut with steamed spinach on a bed of tomato risotto was both pretty and tasty.

Ports of Italy (Boothbay Harbor)

For something other than pizza, this longtime Italian favorite delivers consistently delicious fare.  Many of the pastas are homemade and their veal piccata served with julienned vegetables is an excellent rendition.  Located on the second floor, there are tables both inside and on their screened porch.  No view so either seating is acceptable.

Thistle Inn (Boothbay Harbor)

Up the hill from the waterfront, the Thistle Inn (dating from 1861) might at first seem more appropriate for winter than summer with its dim interior and cozy bar area.  But, they have lovely tables on their side porch and, in good weather, this is the place to be!  My favorites here include their butter poached lobster in pastry appetizer and the salmon entree. In my experience, you won’t go wrong whatever you choose.  And you can even arrange to stay overnight!

Newagen Seaside Inn (Southport Island)

This longtime resort is the scene of many weekend weddings, but also has a most attractive dining room–bar area, semi-circular porch and outside deck, all overlooking a broad lawn sloping down to the water.  The menu is nicely varied and includes everything from beef sliders to stuffed halibut to lobster and lobster rolls, chicken, and flatbreads.  I’m partial to their firecracker shrimp appetizer and recently, an herb crusted swordfish with mushroom risotto.  It’s open for lunch and dinner and can accommodate families with kids.

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Squire Tarbox Inn (Wiscasset)

This historic inn (originally built in 1763 with an 1820 addition) is in the country on Westport Island outside Wiscasset. It would be a cozy place in the cold weather with its fireplaces and dark wood.  In the summer, their screened porch is the place to be with a view out to the garden. The chef and co-owner is Swiss and his veal in a mushroom cream sauce served over rosti potatoes is tasty comfort food, no matter what the season. The house salad is fresh greens and includes a tangle of julienned celariac in a mustardy mayonnaise. Other entrees include lamb, duck breast, halibut and a seductive vichyssoise.  This is relaxed fine dining!

Francine (Camden)

This small mainly French restaurant just off the main drag is cozy and comfortable with very good food.  The halibut I had was perfectly cooked and attractively served with spinach and a few walnuts.  Others in our group raved about the corn soup and the lamb.

Hot Suppa (Portland)

Beyond the art museum and in an area less frequented by tourists, this little place is a haven for breakfast and lunch, although they also serve dinner.  We went for lunch and were surprised that it was packed so we had a 20 minute wait for a booth.  Definitely worth the wait!  Everything was delicious from the French egg scramble with cheese (and other additions you choose) to the corned beef hash to the eggs Benedict and the cole slaw.  Both the breakfast and lunch menus are available at lunchtime, hence cole slaw with my eggs!

 

Header photo by JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maine coast

Coastal Maine: Reading & Eating

In summer, we’re given permission, as if it’s really needed, to read whatever we want, and to eschew serious tomes.  Or to decide that that heavy book you’ve been meaning to tackle is just perfect for long stretches of SSR or “sustained silent reading.”  When I was in 4th grade, we did a lot of reading comprehension exercises.  Read a passage from the Power Builder, then answer questions about it, then, when you’d finished some requisite number of Power Builders, you were rewarded with a period of sustained silent reading.  I loved that latter!  And still do.

Here are two books that are simply pleasurable reads.  Enjoy!

Who am I?

The Woman in the Photo by Mary Hogan

I’d classify this novel as an airplane read. It’s engaging, but is somewhat overwritten and feels a bit as if Ms. Hogan just dashed it off. It follows a now standard practice for historical novels of linking characters and events of the past with a parallel modern-day story. In this case, the event is the Johnstown, Pa flood (not really a flood but a wall of water from a burst dam) and the main character is Elizabeth Haberlin, a rich young lady who’s preparing for her society debut. In the present, adoptee Lee Parker, eighteen, is finally old enough to receive a bit more information about her genetic heritage which propels her on a search for her birth mother.

The best sections deal with the aftermath of the Johnstown tragedy in 1889 and Lee’s initial meeting with her birth family. A more elegantly written novel about this historic event is In Sunlight, In a Beautiful Garden by Kathleen Cambor.

Whodunnit?

The Poacher’s Son by Paul Doiron

Doiron is the former editor of Downeast magazine so it’s no surprise that this, his first mystery, is set in northern Maine. What one might find unusual is that the main character is a state game warden, and in this wild woodsy setting, represents the law and is, in essence, a cop. Mike Bowditch is a rookie warden, still learning the ropes, and is shocked when his father is a fugitive murder suspect and the object of an intensive manhunt. Jack Bowditch is a longtime brawler and heavy drinker with a long string of girlfriends, and he and his son have been mostly estranged since his parents divorced when Mike was nine. Seemingly bent on self-destructive actions that will destroy his young career, Mike is caught up in the search for the killer, all the while proclaiming his father’s innocence. Engrossing and suspenseful, this will appeal to mystery lovers, especially those also fond of Maine. This book was published in 2010 and there are now six additional Mike Bowditch mysteries.

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Casual Dining

To match the easygoing quality of the two books, I’d suggest Oliver’s on Cozy Harbor.  With both inside and outside seating, Oliver’s offers lobster rolls, chowder, and fresh haddock plus a number of salads, sandwiches and daily specials.  And an indulgent cheddar and blue cheese spread with pita chips that’s positively addictive!  Open for lunch and dinner, it’s also a good place to take the kids.

Photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved)

 

More Portland: Art & Food

ART

In 25 years, we had never been to the Portland Museum of Art before this visit.  This time we rectified that with a pleasant walk along Congress Street to the museum.  It’s an impressive complex of several buildings and we wandered through the special exhibit featuring Georgia O’Keefe and three other women artists who all worked for a time in New York.  I also liked seeing furnishings and paintings from their permanent collection including several by Frederic Church and Childe Hassam and others.  And I explored the historic home, also part of the museum, with its intriguing patterned carpets and wallpapers which appealed to me.   2016-07-14 12.54.15 2016-07-14 13.13.29

EATING

Restaurants in Portland run the gamut from seafood places galore to a number of ethnic options as well as more usual Italian and French fare.  Here’s a sampling which represents where we dined last week.

Gilbert’s Chowder House

Reliable for chowder, of course, as well as lobster rolls and fried haddock along with the requisite French fries and cole slaw.  Good, but not exceptional.

Petite Jacqueline

A French bistro in a large, airy space with big windows.  We enjoyed the special of the day, chicken fricassee over rice, fish en papillotte in a butter caper sauce, salads (beet and green), and a lovely shared creme brulee to top it off.  Raspberry and chocolate colored bar stools add a punch of color.

Sisters Gourmet Deli

We had lunch at this inviting café on Congress Street. You order at the counter and they call you up when it’s ready.  Nice assortment of wraps, sandwiches and salads. Chicken salad with almonds and grapes on greens passed muster as did the Santa Fe chicken salad.  2016-07-14 11.46.35

Piccolo

This newish tiny Italian place on Middle Street was able to squeeze us in for a 5:30 dinner.  The chef and others are alums of Daniel Bould’s restaurants in New York and they deliver the goods!  We sampled mostly from the small plate sections of the menu and were delighted with our choices:  heirloom tomato salad with coins of delicate mozzarella; squash blossoms stuffed with salt cod (baccala) which were simply delectable; crisp baby octopus presented in a small skillet; chickpea fritters; stubby pasta with lamb ragu tinged with mint and orange, and a dessert of strawberries and micro basil on a sweet round of cake.

Fore Street

Highly touted and the place that initiated farm to table in Portland, Fore Street is at the edge of the Old Port.  It’s in an old warehouse with rustic beams and several wood-fired ovens. Tables are at a premium so reservations should be made in advance unless you want to join the 5:00 pm line-up and find out at 5:30 how long the wait will be. You can do your waiting at the bar then!  Fortunately, I had made a reservation several weeks ago, granted for an early 5:45 seating, but far preferable to waiting in line.

The menu is extensive with lots of beef and pork, but also fish and chicken. We began with a lovely Jet Star tomato tart for me (luscious, warm, almost poached tomato slices on a rich croissant-like pastry and topped with an herb-flecked egg of goat cheese) and the sweet corn and mushroom salad for the Chief Penguin. He then had the roasted foie gras with accoutrements and I the spit-roasted half chicken. No small chicken either so he got a third of my portion. The chicken was slightly smoky on the outside and very tasty, and the foie gras a hit—how not to savor this delicacy!  Service was brisk almost to the point of being hurried. I’m thinking they want to turn their tables as many times as possible each night!  Instead of dessert, we opted to take home a small box of their house-made chocolates.

Note:  All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved)