EATING OUT IN UPPSALA AND STOCKHOLM
One does not expect a northern country like Sweden to offer outside dining, but it does. Here in Uppsala, there are many sidewalk cafes and glassed-in cafes, some overlooking the river and others just on ordinary streets. Most have heat lamps, extending both the dining hours and the days on which it is possible to eat outdoors.
Iberico, Uppsala
Set alongside the river, Iberico is a tapas restaurant that serves in a café space in pleasant weather and across the street indoors the rest of the time. The Chief Penguin discovered this gem, and we were delighted with what we ordered. From a plate of three different hams to shrimps in chili ginger oil, to patatas bravas, and lovely patron peppers sprinkled with salt, to a bomba filled with minced lamb and in a Swedish twist, a bit of truffle, everything was delicious! Add in some Spanish wine and you have a tasty light meal.
We liked this restaurant so much, we returned for a light meal after lunch in Stockholm. We enjoyed the three Iberico hams a second time, the padron peppers, and this time the cheese platter complete with Marcona almonds, small toasts, and mini wedges of cantaloupe.
Our waiter, a young man who grew up in Moldova, was the youngest son in his family who got “blamed’ for everything. He lived for some years in Dubai, but tiring of the noise and bustle there, moved to Uppsala. He was charming and engaging, adding to our dining pleasure on both occasions.
Saluhallen, Uppsala
Saluhallen is an elegant food hall. Not overly large, it is divided into sections and counters devoted to one food group or another. A lovely selection of cheeses in one case, fish and shrimp preparations at another counter, beef and other meats at another, and fancy pastries at yet another. You can order items to take home or sit nearby or at tables in a separate attractive light-filled area with big windows. We didn’t eat or buy here, just wandered through, salivating all the way, promising ourselves a return visit.
Operabaren, Stockholm
Housed in the Royal Swedish Opera House complex, Operabaren is the little sister to Operakallaren, a one Michelin star restaurant also here. Coming by train from Uppsala (about 45 minutes), we met our friends from Los Angeles. It’s a small comfortable space with lots of wood and both traditional and elegant in feel. White tablecloths and white linen napkins, for sure, and all male servers. The menu is mostly traditional Swedish cuisine, beautifully plated.
I had the half open face shrimp sandwich as my starter, while the Chief Penguin indulged in herring with little round potatoes.
For mains, we both ordered Swedish meatballs. They were little balls in a rich sauce accompanied by puréed potatoes, lingonberries, and pickled cucumber slices. A perfect rendition of this classic dish!
Our friends tucked into a beef and potato entrée and gravlax with potatoes on the side. Dessert was a buttercream meringue confection for the CP, raspberry sorbet for me, and a cheese plate for the others.
It was leisurely meal where we caught up with each others’ lives over the past several decades.
OF NOTE
Street with Hanging lampshades
I fell in love with the hanging lamp shade lights on Smedsgrand Street in Uppsala. The shades are large and colorfully patterned and almost all different. I noted only one pattern that was repeated. I was curious about them and Googled, but was unable to find any information about them or why and when they were installed.
TRAIN STATION
The Uppsala train station is a striking long building. It is modern, with good signage, and is meticulously clean! Finding where to buy a train ticket, however, is almost impossible. No signs or obvious ticket machines or service counter. Finally, the Chief Penguin entered a convenience store to ask. The helpful man there told him he sells the tickets, and he provided useful details on the schedule and travel times. We later bought tickets from him. Friends told us you can buy tickets online, but we haven’t tried that.
This station also includes an upscale restaurant, a café and a grill. The restaurant is a separate enterprise from the station management.
Note: Header photo by the river and all other photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)
Jean,
You and your husband are very fortunate to be so mobile and healthy. I think you are younger than we are (84 and 90)). Dwight stopped driving a few years ago and his last international trip was four years ago. My mobility has gotten terrible and I think my traveling days are over. I still want to travel but my body says No way! I ve told a friend I’d go with her to IFLA in Kazakhstan next year but I think that’s WAY too ambitious and I’ll have to back out. Sometimes I pay my son’s way to go along and help with wheelchairs and stuff but not Kazakhstan I think. I’m still hoping Dwight and I can go just the two of us on a Caribbean cruise in March but that remains to be seen. Seems like we could handle just sitting on a boat.