Tag: Arezzo

Italy: Arezzo to Pienza

JWF 2 Comments
Arezzo at night

Yesterday was our last full day in Arezzo.  We’ve enjoyed being here and have had some of the best meals of the trip so far.  That’s partly the result of seeking out trattorias rather than cafes or pizzerias.  In Cortona, we had lunch in town, but took advantage of the tasty appetizers followed by cookies and vin santo offered at our hotel each evening.  They were a satisfactory substitute for dinner (one night augmented by a plate of meats and cheese) and spared us the steep walk up the hill and back in the dark.

FRESCOES IN ARREZO

Crucifix, chapel behind

In the morning, our enthusiastic guide Debora, native of Arezzo and a big booster of her city, took us to see Piero della Francesca’s marvelous frescoes in the Basilica of Saint Francis.  Created in the mid 15th century, the frescoes are in a small chapel named for the Bacci family tucked behind the sanctuary’s massive 13th century crucifix. They tell the Legend of the True Cross and are “read” beginning at the apex of the ceiling.

Frescoes on ceiling

The side walls relate to each other with some symmetry; there is a battle scene depicted on each side at the lowest level.

Battle scene close-up

The annuciation on the left rear wall is matched by Constantine’s dream scene on the right rear wall.

Annunciation
Constantine dream scene, depicting dawn light (previously thought to be a night scene)

There are missing patches on the images, but overall they are quite complete. It’s noteworthy that frescoes in churches were often whitewashed over; only much later, did restoration work reveal the art underneath.

For serious lovers of Renaissance art, these frescoes are worth a trip to Arezzo. Add in the duomo and the other historic architecture, and you can easily spend a day or two.

VAL D’ORCIA

Cypresses lining a driveway

Val D’Orcia, an extensive valley in southern Tuscany, is a protected park and since 2004, a World Heritage Site. There are olive trees and deciduous trees in this valley, but its hallmark are the tall pointed cypress trees. These cypresses appear on postcards and are a feature on several of the winding roads outside Pienza and elsewhere.

On our way to the Renaissance town of Pienza, birthplace of Pope Pius II, we made several stops along the road to take photos. The day was a mix of clouds and sun, making for pretty late morning light.

Greens and browns of Val d’Orcia landscape

PIENZA

Pienza main square

Pope Pius II returned to Pienza and remade the city into the architectural gem it still is today. With its beautiful Renaissance center, it became a UNESCO heritage site in 1996. It is a small town with one main thoroughfare between two city gates with narrow passageways branching off in both directions.

Pienza street view
City gate, Pienza

There are good views of the valley below from the city wall.

View from wall to valley

After our ride and our rambling through town, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a Pienza trattoria. Besides olive oil, cheese is a local product, especially pecorino. There are several varieties and we sampled three, plus I had a lovely dish of gnocchi.

Gnocchi in Parmesan cream

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo taken in Pienza.

Italy: Surprising Arezzo

JWF 1 Comment

ARREZO’S PLACE

Panoramic view of historic Arezzo

We arrived in Arezzo yesterday for three nights.  Arezzo is not as much on the tourist circuit as Siena, Cortona, and other Tuscan towns.  In fact, Debora, our lively guide today, described Arezzo as “the ugly duckling.”  It’s a real city and much bigger than Siena or Cortona, but it has not had the same influx of tourists until recently; consequently, it isn’t as prepared to receive them well.  Hotels in the central district, not far from the magnificent duomo and other ancient buildings, are scarce and even a bit tired.

Monaco statue & city beyond

 Our hotel is in a great location opposite Guido Monaco’s statue with a view up Via del Corso toward the cathedral. Its rooftop terrace provided the wonderful panoramic view above.

Music theorist and monk, Monaco, who lived in the 10th century, was responsible for inventing the names for the notes on the scale: do, re, mi, fa, sol, la, ti, do.  Arezzo today celebrates music with festivals and the like. 

Town hall facade, Medici coat of arms in center

After many predictions of severe weather and rain, we had some spritzing followed by a steady real rain.  But we were able to enjoy a couple hours with Debora walking up the hill by the town hall to the impressive duomo. Later, we skirted a large park on our way to Piazza Grande with its mix of architecture from the medieval era to the Medicis to the Renaissance.  Arezzo was an Etruscan town, then Roman, then Medici and so on like others in Tuscany. 

DUOMO

Duomo from the rear

The Duomo was started in the 1300’s, but has had additions and renovations dating through the centuries up to the early 1900’s. It sits so high above the rest of the city that its sheer size as well as its position mean that it dominates the piazza.  It is dedicated to St. Donatus and in the interior is a 14th century arch named for him.  

Marble Arch of St. Donatus

There are also some lovely early 16th century stained glass windows whose intense reds and purples are still radiant today.

Stained glass, Arezzo Duomo

Pope Gregory X died in Arezzo in 1276 and there is a funerary monument to him from the 14th century.  The Chapel of the Madonna del Confort, about the size of a small church within the cathedral, offers a more intimate place for meditation. It was built beginning in 1796.  When we went in, the cathedral organ was playing, and it was peaceful and restful.  

Also of note here is a work by Pietro della Francesca, Mary Magdalene, from the 15th century. In bright colors and small details, she is portrayed with loose hair suggesting a prostitute, but also with a container of oil to wash the feet of Jesus.

Mary Magdalene

ROMAN ROOTS

Debora described the architecture of several buildings as being like lasagna, many layers of different styles.  It seemed an apt description, especially when later we popped into the Sugar Gallery through a 16th century archway and then walked on glass floors where only a foot below us were some beautiful stone mosaics. They belong to the Roman period. 

I liked this duck with its orange beak

 Lovely and preserved, over 2,000 years old, these mosaics looked fresh and contemporary. 

PIAZZA GRANDE

Piazza Grande

Piazza Grande is a true mix of styles with a row of flat medieval facades, the rounded apse of a church, a and a three level building with a clock tower whose layers span from medieval times to the Renaissance period. It’s a great slanted space with, of course, a café or two on the side.  

Medieval houses
In Piazza Grande
Santa Maria della Pieve

Twice a year, a jousting festival takes place in this piazza with participants on horseback from the four neighborhoods of Arezzo, competing against one another to hit a target. The piazza is called grand, and it is a grand and appealing space.

Tomorrow we will go into the Church of San Francesco to see the frescoes by Piero della Francesca.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)