DINNER IN BAYEUX
Last night we had a real dinner in a modern restaurant in an old building in Bayeux. Only the second restaurant dinner this trip. La Quarante Neuf was recommended by our trip organizers. And our B&B hostess said we’d made a good choice. Our reservation was for 7:00 pm, the minute they opened, and we were surprised when all seven tables in the main dining room filled up immediately—and not just with Americans!
The menu is presented on a large portable blackboard and is French with some Asian accents. We opted for three courses, entrée, plat, and dessert. I had the deconstructed tomato cooked several different ways first which was delectable, and the Chief Penguin had the rillettes.
We each then had fish. Mine was cod with fennel and black lentils in a grapefruit broth with sections of pink grapefruit, while he had the half-cooked tuna.
The dishes were creative and imaginative and tasty. For dessert, we shared my cheese selection and then his chocolate mini cake with chocolate ice cream. The chef, a woman, came out to greet us, and we were able to sing our praises to her.
THE TAPESTRY & MORE
Today was a day spent mostly on foot. We parked in the usual lot at the train station and then walked to find the tapestry museum, using the towering cathedral as a navigation aid. The Bayeux Tapestry depicts the story of William, Duke of Normandy’s conquest of England in 1066 and is a hand embroidered piece of art that is almost 230 feet long. The original, which used to reside in the Bayeux Cathedral, is mounted on a curved wall behind glass. The audio guide, included in the admission price, is essential to appreciating the events shown. The various scenes from King Edward naming William as his heir to the end of the battle are numbered. The guide narrates what is happening and points out subtleties one might miss. I found it fascinating and a great way to experience this famous tapestry.
A bonus was seeing the special exhibit, David Hockney’s A Year in Normandy. Hockney was enamored of the tapestry and also fond of this region in France. He decided to create a parallel work of art, also a long mural, showing the changing seasons in Normandy from spring through summer and fall ending with winter.
An artist who delights in trying out new techniques and approaches, Hockney created his work by drawing on his iPad using a program called Brushes. The result is a marvelous progression of images employing lots of bright greens and yellows with fuchsia and lavender accents. The Chief Penguin and I were especially pleased to see this work since we met Hockney some years ago in Los Angeles when an exhibit of his work was being installed.
BAYEUX CATHEDRAL
The Bayeux Cathedral is striking for its two Romanesque towers and its soaring and elaborate Gothic one. The original church was consecrated in 1077, and William the Conquerer was present. Only the two older towers, the first level of the nave, and the crypt remain from the Romanesque building.
The sanctuary that one sees today is the result of rebuilding in the 12th century and later after it was damaged. It is soaring Gothic with flying buttresses and clerestory windows and stunning stained glass windows.
MUSEUM OF THE BATTLE OF NORMANDY
To round out the day, we walked to visit the Museum of the Battle of Normandy after lunch. Lots of exhibits with lots of text and photos and profiles of important generals, along with tanks and other machinery of war, make this a museum for anyone interested in the fine structure of this historic battle. We only spent a short amount of time here, but it was still worth visiting.
THE PERFECT LUNCH
Wandering around historic Bayeux near the cathedral, we noted several possible lunch options ranging from simple crepes to probably heavier Norman cuisine to the little place we selected. Le P’tit Resto was perfect in every way: the right amount of food, the right price, welcoming wait staff, and a delicious meal. We both had the Formule du Jour, menu of the day, and chose the fish preparation with either fries or rice.
The main course was preceded by a small shot glass of veggie cappuccino and followed by either two cheeses or a presentation of little desserts. We both selected the cheese which was Camembert and Pont-l’Eveque with a little salad. With this menu, you also had your choice of a glass of wine (small) or café.
Note: All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).
