THROUGH WOODS TO OYSTER CABINS
Today’s outing was a drive down to the Arcachon Basin area and specifically the towns of Ares and Cap Ferret. Our starting location was about an hour north of Bordeaux in Vertheuil, near the town of Lesparre. From our B&B, we drove west and south to Hourtin and then south more or less parallel to two long lakes to the town of Ares. Much of the drive goes through the Medoc Regional Parc, a heavily wooded area with tall trees and lots of turnoffs into the woods for camping or picnicking. Ares is one of the centers of oyster farming and sits on the top of the Arcachon Basin. This area, along with Normandy and Brittany are three main production areas in the country.
An arresting female figure, a sculpture, watches over the harbor.
It was a gloomy gray day for a drive, and the closer we got to the waterfront at Ares, the quieter it got. The summer holiday season was definitely over. When we got to the restaurant I had earmarked for lunch, it was closed up as tight as could be. But, on both sides of the inlet were oyster cabins, small huts where local vendors sell their oysters along with other seafood such as shrimp.
These cabins are distinctive for their pointed roofs and pastel colored doors and trim. They appeared to be closed as well. But for those who were desperate for oysters, there was even a hut with an oyster automat; choose how many and how big!
LUNCH IN ARES
This was a time when the app Around Me really came in handy. I checked it for restaurants close by and noted two that were just a half mile away in the center of Ares near the church. Centre ville was alive and open for business. My preferred place was La Fille du Barbu (bearded man’s daughter) as it had two good reviews. The other option was a fast food sort of eatery with burgers and tacos. We arrived at La Fille just after 12:00 and before it completely filled with locals. They had two menus of the day and a bunch of a la carte choices. I successfully navigated the menu French for our order.
We selected the 17 euro menu which was a great deal! For the starter we each had the tomato tart with small salad and then a lovely piece of salmon on pesto with mashed potatoes and veggies. Our dessert was a poached pear and citron sorbet in star-anise flavored syrup. It was delicious and substantial!
BEACH AND DUNES
After lunch, we drove about another half hour farther south along a finger of land to Cap Ferret at its end. Here’s there’s an extensive beach. We walked up a steep boardwalk and then down a path against a strong breeze almost to the beach. On either side of the path are tall sand dunes.
On one side of the boardwalk is a narrow track for a small train. We could only imagine how crowded and popular this beach is in the summer. We thought we might get a view across the water toward the massive Pyla Sand Dune, the tallest sand dune in Europe, but it was too cloudy.
On the way to and from our B&B, we passed through a number of small towns. Towns of narrow twisting streets and always a looming church steeple. The town of Ares was no exception, and I marveled at this church’s smaller, but striking, contemporary stained glass windows. Contemporary ones, but with figures as well as shapes.
DINING
We had thought about going into a nearby village for dinner, but instead purchased some food at the Carrefour supermarket, while trying to buy gas. Madeleine, our host, kindly laid out tableware and glasses for us in the dining room. Our snack of slices of Serrano ham, cheese, sesame crackers, and a couple of clementines, along with red wine and a cookie, was just right!
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)
