LODGING & LOCATION
Avignon is one of France’s largest cities with walls and many gates of entry and the famous bridge of the song every American school child learns in 3rd grade. The city is historically important because In the 14th century, for almost 70 years, Avignon was the site of the papacy. Over that time, seven popes resided here. Pope Clement V chose Avignon over Rome because it was more centrally located in Christendom. Although the papacy moved back to Rome in the 15th century, Avignon did not become part of France until 1791 after many invasions and sieges and just two years after the start of the French Revolution.
We are staying on Ile de la Barthelasse, very close to old Avignon. There is free ferry service across the Rhone River. Our B&B is down a dirt lane tucked in, but it is possible to drive and park at a nearby restaurant and walk from there to the ferry landing. Ferry hours are more limited now that is October and post season.
The house we are staying in has a pretty garden and pool and small round tables outside each guest unit. Our room is quite spacious and has modern plumbing and a nice shower. We also have a mini fridge, just the right size to store a bottle of wine or some fruit.
Last evening, Luc, our host here at Le Mas de L’ile, kindly drove us and another guest to a parking lot near a bridge. We climbed a tall staircase and then walked across the bridge over the Rhône and through one of the gates into the city. There is nothing subtle about the architecture, but it is pleasant to walk these streets and think about all that has gone on here.
We had dinner at an up and coming newer restaurant called L’Essentiel. The Chief Penguin loved what he ordered, and I think he made better choices than I did. He had the foie gras starter followed by lamb shank cooked for 7 hours and then a little molten chocolate cake.
I had the egg parfait to start. I was being adventurous since I had enjoyed an egg cocotte previously. This dish was okay with its croutons and fried zucchini rounds, but a bit bland and too eggy. My main course was chicken (cooked sous vide) layered with some greens on top and underneath a mixture of tomatoes and potatoes. It was different and nicely presented, but I didn’t love it. My dessert was raspberries and cherries in a thick jam with sorbet and meringue.
The restaurant’s hostess was delightful and quickly agreed to arrange a cab to pick us up and take us back to our B&B.
WHAT THIS TRIP IS ABOUT
This trip has many aspects. It’s a return to a country where we have spent considerable time over the decades. It’s an opportunity to visit regions we had not been to before like Normandy and Brittany and experience their noteworthy history and culture. Traveling by car, it’s a chance to explore small towns and villages and get the flavor of local life.
It has not been a trip marked by lots of museums and ruins, a bit more of those when we get to Paris. And because we love food and French cuisine especially, we have focused on and savored the meals, whether they be traditional fare in a casual bistro or the creative offerings of a rising young chef. We are deliberately not maintaining a frantic or even a frenetic pace. We are picking and choosing from the suggestions from our trip organizers and going about our days in a somewhat relaxed manner. This is travel that works for us at this stage of life.
SATURDAY IN AVIGNON
This morning we took the ferry across the Rhône. We had a wait for the small boat, but the actual crossing takes only about 3 minutes.
Disembarking, you go up a ramp and walk a short distance along a busy road to one of the big gates. We entered just beyond Porte d’Avignon and spent about an hour wandering the streets and re-visiting the main square, Place de l’Horloge, in the old town. Translated it means Clock Tower Square, but the clock of its name is barely visible, and I never did see it. Like Paris, the square is filled with grand 19th century buildings (city hall, opera house, old bank) and dotted with lots of sidewalk cafes. If nothing else, the French give priority to dining well and often.
On the recommendation of Luc, our host here, we had lunch at La Cour d’Honneur. The tables in the courtyard offered views out to the street while still being enclosed. Here, we had a wonderful meal, another one of the best of this trip. The Chief Penguin and I both started with the Provençal tomatoes with mozzarella and greens in pesto oil. He had scallops with black truffle and I, the salmon with spinach. Silky risotto accompanied both dishes. With a bit of local wine and espresso to finish, it was perfect. I heard no English at all, and had fun watching the French diners around us.
Note: Photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo shows one of Avignon’s exterior walls.
