This morning the Chief Penguin and I had a guided tour of some of the architecture of the Fascist period in Rome, ranging from a post office to train stations to the grand buildings of the EUR area. This is architecture from Benito Mussolini’s time in power, roughly 1922 to 1942. Our guide, Liz, a transplanted American, married to a Roman, has lived in Rome for 33 years. An architect focusing on historic preservation, she was knowledgeable and friendly and easy to engage with questions.
Our first stop was a striking post office building in the Testaccio area from 1924. Designed in the Rationalist style, it looks strikingly modern, especially compared to the nearby ornate, castle-like firehouse built the same year.
The interior was equally majestic with curves and pendant lights. What looked strange was the rows of chairs with people waiting to be served. You take a number (and perhaps a seat), just like in the DMV offices in some U.S. cities!
We also checked out an early train station that took folks from Rome to the beach in Lido on the Tyrrhenian Sea. With regular train service, the Lido community greatly expanded in size. From the outside, this station looks quite simple. Inside is another matter entirely with some lovely sculptural scenes on the stone.
Next we visited the voluminous Roma Ostiense train station built in 1938 and designed to commemorate an upcoming visit from Adolf Hitler. Part of the façade is pushed out to allow a hidden space for a car to arrive (carrying an illustrious visitor) and for the dignitary to exit and immediately enter an elaborate presidential room. Unfortunately, that room is reserved for special functions only and not open to the public.
We were able to appreciate the many black and white mosaics on the floor portraying historic events along with bas reliefs on the exterior walls. Also inside were two large rectangular panels of lovely green marble on each end wall, one with an eagle on it
The metro wasn’t running today, due to a strike, which gave us a few transportation challenges for the second part of the tour. After some delay, we three did get a cab to the southern edge of Rome to the EUR district. Named after the planned 1942 Esposizione Universale di Roma (EUR), which never happened because of the war, it includes a number of monumental buildings designed under Mussolini’s regime to showcase the grandeur of Italy to the world.
Probably the one we found the most stunning was the Palazzo della Civilta Italiana, informally known as the “Square Colosseum,” with its many arches within arches and its sheer size on its long raised base. Classic sculptures of Romulus and Remus flank either end in addition to two bronze pieces, one a pyramid shape and part of a special exhibit.
Since the world exposition didn’t occur, other buildings didn’t get built, and this one never was used for its original purpose. Somewhat ironically, I’d say, today it is the headquarters of Fendi, the Italian fashion designers. Usually, the public can enter this building, but not today!
This tour was a fascinating way to spend the morning, and we both learned a lot and enjoyed it!
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)
