London Days

Days two and three in London involved more walking (only one Tube round trip so far), an art exhibit and a long browse in one of my favorite bookshops.

ART

It was Sunday, the last day of the exhibit, and very foggy.  Like us, many like-minded folks streamed toward the Tate Modern for the Georgia O’Keefe retrospective.  For most people, O’Keefe evokes the thought of flower images and New Mexico.  But she was so much more than a flower painter.  img_1226 img_1227This exhibit traces her work from early abstracts through a brief New York phase (who knew she painted skyscrapers?) to summers in Lake George, NY (loved the simple straight lines of a green door and her presentation of foliage), to the landscapes and adobes of the Southwest and her fascination with skulls and bones (which she insisted did not mean death to her).  Even later, she painted several series of patios and flowery trees.  And, yes, the flowers are here; I’m partial to the poppies and, of course, the stunningly beautiful and beautifully composed white jimson weed!

We rented the multi-media guide (audio with photos of the works being discussed) which was excellent.  Commentary by various curators plus the voice of O’Keefe explaining her approach to her art.  I find that having an audio guide, particularly in a crowded exhibit, helps me focus even if it means I don’t stop and peruse every work.  [I saw no one taking photos of the art and so was hesitant to do so, only taking the above two photos.]

We had lunch in the museum restaurant on the 6th floor and were just ahead of the crowd.  Veal milanese with sauerkraut on the side and a very nice panfried hake with sautéed greens were our selections. img_1230 In keeping with the coloring craze, the table was covered with a mat to color and a glass of crayons.  A diversion for the adults as much as the kids.

BOOKS–HATCHARD’S

After lunch, we walked across the Millennium Bridge and along Sermon Lane to St. Paul’s Cathedral.  From there we took the Tube to Tottenham Court Road and then walked through Leicester Square, past Eros on Piccadilly, and onward.  Hatchard’s has been around since 1797 and is a very proper bookshop. It not only has three floors of books, but is carpeted, not blazingly lit, and offers some quiet nooks where one might sit.  Several years ago it was taken over by Waterstone’s and there are now some signs of that with more gifty items and notecards on the main floor which are nice, but, to me, detract from the seriousness of the place.

The extensive fiction section has been re-located to the second floor along with the largest array of crime novels I’ve seen anywhere.  And there’s an inviting sofa under the window on which one may alight.  Small tables with piles of books on them are staged throughout the entire store, each with a titled sign and then a quotation from some author’s work.  Strong suits are certainly British history and biography as well as the aforementioned fiction and the latest new titles.  We easily spent an hour and I left with a short novel by Tessa Hadley and a few more notecards for my collection.

All photos by JWFarrington; header photo is London Millennium Bridge

London: First Impressions upon Returning

It’s been about 5 years since I was last in London and now we are back.  My observations on this return:  cell phones are in use everywhere on the street, even more so than New York. Many, many restaurants now have outside seating, cafe style.  On some days that means lap blankets are provided in addition to exterior heaters.

The Tube is cleaner, faster, and even better.  We have not yet had to wait more than a minute or two for a train, and there are ready announcements if there is even the slightest delay (“we are stopped for a red signal and should be moving again in a moment.”)  Many stations have been upgraded and made attractive.  Happily, our Oyster cards of yore still work and we’ve been topping them up frequently!  Mass transit here is expensive which, I guess, is providing the fuel for the upgrades.

British food has gone trendy; the farm to table movement is in evidence on numerous menus–think California and San Francisco, but with a British twist!  We had a small lunch at a hot newish restaurant called The Shed (rustic inside and out like a garden shed) and sampled carrot hummus and lamb chips (as in shaped like fries and fried) with a harissa dipping sauce.  The hummus was tasty and the lamb chips delectable.  Among the more usual offerings on their menu, we nibbled a couple of delicious cheeses. Overall, though, I’m still struck by how much meat is on the menus, probably no more than before, but my response to living midst California’s bounteous produce.

The new double decker buses are very classy looking and still red, thank you.  Lots of construction going on—both new buildings and road works.

Hatchard’s on Piccadilly

Hatchard’s, that bastion of books, was doing a lively business the other day and remains one of my favorite hangouts for all things literary.  It is now owned by Waterstone’s, but retains its genteel character and other than Waterstone’s Kindle covers for sale, you almost wouldn’t know.

There are  branches of Waterstone’s all around the city and a number of other independent bookstores and mini-chains.  Other favorites of mine  include the original Daunt Books on Marylebone High Street and Heywood Hill in Mayfair.  The latter is a cluttered cozy set of two small rooms of both old and new books with a thriving mail order and gift collection business.  On the surface at least, London’s bookselling industry appears to be thriving.

As for what else is new, we stopped in at the gala reception for the opening of the new Sherlock Holmes exhibit.  Quite the bash!

Museum of London exhibit
Museum of London exhibit

And I absolutely love the blue rooster in Trafalgar Square!  It’s unmissable, whimsical and adds an element of informality to this public space.  The title of it is Hahn/Cock and the sculptor is Katharina Fritsch.