Yesterday was our first full day in Paris. We figured out that we have visited here at least five times over the decades. We spent the day on foot (a welcome change from the car) and chose a route past a few hotels and streets where we’ve stayed in the past. First up was the Hotel de l’Universite’ on rue de l’Universite’, then the Hotel Duc de Saint-Simon, and also a street near the Pantheon. We couldn’t locate the Pantheon Hotel and thought perhaps it had changed names or gone out of business. Aside from strolling down memory lane, here’s what else we did.
MUSEE D’ORSAY
We had tickets for a 10:30 entry to this favorite museum of ours, onCe a train station, now a glorious art museum. I used the French app, Tiqet, for the purchase; had I used a different app I probably could have gotten us a higher priority entry line. Rule for future trips: read all the advice the trip organizers give you first!
As it was, the plaza outside the building was very crowded with multiple lines for entry. We ended up in an A line and prepared to wait. It seemed longer, but we were actually only in line for 20 minutes and were inside by 10:35, even with airport-like security screening.
Knowing that the Impressionist paintings were what we wanted to see most, we threaded our way through the throngs and made a beeline for the escalator at the back of the hall and the 5th, top floor. We weren’t the only ones with this in mind. But, fortunately, we’d been here before and even though we couldn’t get close to some paintings, we enjoyed seeing old favorites again and discovering new surprises. Part of the appeal of this museum is its great architecture.
CAFÉ LUNCH
If any city specializes in sidewalk cafes, it’s Paris. With all its cafes and bars, you can get something to eat any time of day or night. Not true in the provinces. We had lunch at just such a café, opting to sit on the side street, not St. Germain des Pres. My salmon and spinach tart (a quiche) featured ingredients I love and was one of the best I’ve ever eaten. The Chief Penguin also thought his croque monsieur as absolutely the best he’s had.
LUXEMBOURG GARDEN
Think lots of metal straight backed chairs, some wide open spaces, a café, and formal flower plantings in ground and urns, and you have a sense of Luxembourg Garden. On this day, the garden was teeming with people of all ages sitting, conversing, reading, and picnicking. At the little lake, reminiscent of Central Park, fathers and mothers with sons and daughters were delighting in pushing around little sailboats with long poles.
All around, it was a happy scene full of life. We found chairs and people watched and took photos.
Luxembourg Garden was created in 1612 by Henri IV’s widow when she decided to build herself a new home there, Luxembourg Palace. The garden today is owned by the French Senate which meets in the palace.
PANTHEON
From the garden, we ambled to the Pantheon. Like so much of Paris architecture, the Pantheon is grand and handsome and appealing. It was built between 1758 and 1790 and was originally intended to be a church. Instead it was used as a mausoleum for noted individuals. Later it was a church again, then back to being a mausoleum. It is still a mausoleum and Victor Hugo is buried here.
The streets here have plenty of shops from international brands to local from mini-grocery to high fashion, and always, at least one bookstore.
PLACE DE LA SORBONNE
A short distance away is this square, close to the nearby universities. As you would expect, students hang out here, chatting, studying or just contemplating life. Spurting fountains add interest. This square opened in 1639. On one side is a bookstore for law books. We had not been in this place before.
DINING OUT
The previous night we ate outside and had something akin to comfort food. Roast chicken for me and skate in a caper butter sauce for CP. This night we dined inside at a recommended small restaurant called La Ferrandaise. It was an excellent meal in an attractive space with posters on the wall and large hanging lampshades bringing light below.
My starter of ravioli with chèvre and spinach was exquisite while the CP loved his butternut squash soup with chestnuts. He had octopus over white beans while I opted for the grilled veal shank. Despite the busyness of the restaurant, service was especially friendly and attentive. We could easily return for another meal.
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header images is also Luxembourg Garden.
