Exploring Maine: Brunswick

ART AND EATING IN BRUNSWICK

Crosswalk in downtown Brunswick

For years, we’ve driven Route 1 on the outskirts of Brunswick past strip malls, fast food restaurants, and auto repair shops.  We had never ventured any farther into downtown Brunswick.  This week we did and discovered that Maine Street (it’s really named that) is quite charming with several blocks of shops, a wide variety of restaurants and cafes, and even a couple of bookstores.  Just beyond a lovely park is the beginning of the Bowdoin College campus.  

On the Bowdoin campus

Bowdoin is an old liberal arts institution, chartered in 1794, and has produced an illustrious group of alumni.  Among them are generals, statesmen, explorers, and the writers, Nathaniel Hawthorne and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. The campus stretches along one side of the street opposite attractive old style frame houses.  It has an extensive expanse of green and a mix of a few contemporary buildings interspersed among more classic red brick architecture.  

The Chief Penguin and I walked the half mile from where we parked the car to our destination, the Bowdoin Museum of Art. The art department has a grand old building listed on the National Historic Register. Next to it is a glass cube, the entrance to the museum itself.

Entrance to Walker Art Building

Among the featured exhibitions, we paid the most attention to At First Light: Two Centuries of Artists in Maine.  This is a marvelous exhibit filling several small galleries with paintings, a quilt, and a Wabanaki basket.  Artists include George Bellows, Alex Katz, Lois Dodd, N. C. and Jamie Wyeth, along with others I hadn’t previously encountered.  Here are a couple of my favorite works.

Pastoral painting by N. C. Wyeth
Detail from The Mainland by Jamie Wyeth, 1992. (I love the luminosity of the buoys.)
The Mantle by Will Barnet, 1992. (I like the layering of window and door frame and the soft tones in this contemplative work.)

After the museum, we met my Scarborough cousin and his wife for lunch at one of the two Indian restaurants on the main drag. Shere Punjab, a small colorfully painted family-run business, offered up delicious curries and naan.  Collectively, we sampled the chicken and lamb curries and the fish curry.  Fluffy basmati rice was served with them.  It was so good we all vowed to eat there again!

MAINE BOOK FOR THE WEEK—A SUMMER COLONY

Haven Point by Virginia Hume

Haven Point is a first novel by a former political writer and editor.  It’s the kind of book you curl up with, and before you know it, the whole afternoon has whizzed by!  The families with summer homes at Haven Point believe in its traditions, one being the annual singalong.  It’s a colony established by upper-class sorts, all with the right educational and professional pedigrees.   

Maren marries into the world of Haven Point when Dr. Oliver Larsen becomes her husband.  She grew up on a farm in Minnesota and was a nurse with Oliver at Walter Reed Hospital in DC near the end of WWII.  She feels like an outsider during much of her life in Maine.  

Their daughter Annie is a talented artist, but battles alcoholism for many years.  Annie’s daughter, Maren’s granddaughter Skye, is secretive and ashamed of her mother’s relapses. She also feels that Haven Point, with its Waspy whiteness is too insular a society. Love, tragedy, betrayal, and addiction run through this novel set between 1944 and 2008 told in multiple voices.  I quickly became enmeshed in these characters’ lives and the hours disappeared.  (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo is Summer by Frank Weston Benson, 1909. Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Maine Days: Blossoms & Book

GARDENS

ABUNDANT BLOOMS

If I were asked to name the most common flowers in this part of Maine, it would be daylilies and black-eyed Susans. Native to North America, Black-eyed Susans or Rudbeckia hirta are now found in the lower 48 states.

 A close third would be the many varieties of cone flowers.  

We made another visit to Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens this week.  After checking off another troll on our list (we’ve seen three of the five), we enjoyed wandering in the children’s garden and through the senses garden.  Everything seemed especially lush and leafed out (probably all the rain here in July) and as always, it was lovely.

Here on Southport, there are daylilies in the garden and when we walk the neighborhood, we spy more of them.  Especially prevalent are the yellow and cream ones.  

Cream daylilies at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens

CHALLENGED DETECTIVE

The Cuckoo’s Calling by Robert K. Galbraith

I missed some of the hoopla when J. K. Rowling published her first crime novel as Robert K. Galbraith.  I’m only now discovering this work, thanks to the recommendations of Patricia and Rebecca.  The Cuckoo’s Calling is the first of five novels featuring detective Cormoran Strike.  Strike is a former soldier who served in Afghanistan.  At the outset, he is hard up, soon to be homeless, and slowed down by the loss of part of one leg in the war.  After the apparent suicide of Lula, a famous model, Strike is hired by the model’s stepbrother to investigate her death.  His new temp Robin is efficient, motivated, and tactful in ignoring the travails of Strike’s personal life. Together they wind their way through false leads and questionable tactics to arrive at the truth.

I enjoyed getting to know both Cormoran and Robin but was less taken with the unsavory characters of the celebrity world.  The book is very well-written (one probably wouldn’t expect any less) and clever, but long.  I picked it up and put it down and then resumed.  The more I got into it, the more I found it satisfying and engaging.  Therefore, after a break, I will probably read the next title in the series.  

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Out and About in Portland

Portland on Casco Bay is small, as cities go, and you are always within the sound of seagull’s honk, even in the center of town.   Portland is also Maine’s largest city and one that has gotten a lot of attention in recent years for its food and restaurant scene.   In the Old Port and the Arts District in particular, restaurants of all cuisines are nestled midst smart and stylish little shops selling everything from summer fashions to Swiss watches, toys, Himalayan salt blocks, Stonewall Kitchen jams and spreads, as well as Maine-made pottery and ceramics. In addition to a plethora of seafood options, you can find Indian, Japanese,  French, Mexican and Italian food and more.

In our walk around after arriving, we did a lot of just wandering and I took the opportunity to capture some of the more intriguing shop signs and windows and other street art.

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Yesterday we did a power walk along Fore Street all the way up the hill to the Eastern Promenade, a beautiful green area at the end of the peninsula that is Portland. Stunning views of Casco Bay from Fort Allen Park and all along the promenade with a number of walking or biking trails for those who are serious.  IMG_9463

This is also the  location of Munjoy Hill, a now hip residential area.   After sitting on a bench (not this lovely porch, alas) and gazing at the bay, we walked to Congress Street and began our descent back toward downtown.

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Along the way, we stopped for cappuccinos and a shared ginger cookie at Hilltop Coffee, an inviting café  near Spoon where we enjoyed lunch last year.IMG_9478

Continuing on, we spied the Eastern Cemetery which had a sign offering a tour at 11:00 am. It being just about that time, we crossed the street and met the guide, part of an organization called Spirits Alive. This is Portland’s oldest cemetery and was in use for more than 200 years from the 1600’s until the 1880’s. More than 4,000 graves are here and the headstones tell a remarkable story of military heroes, veterans of wars up to and including the Civil War, and even a bank robber or two.

Our guide was knowledgeable and a strong advocate of Spirits Alive’s mission to research the gravestones and to preserve them in their original state as much as possible.  As you can see, it’s a lovely setting.  The red brick building was once a school and is now low income housing.  The monolith marks the Alden family plot and recognizes naval hero, James Alden, in particular.  The grave stones are mainly white marble, which doesn’t weather well over the long term, and slate which is gray and dark in color.

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After all that wandering about, we needed lunch.  What would a first full day in Maine be without a lobster roll?  Not good.  We returned to Gilbert’s, a very casual place on the waterfront, and home of a good roll.  Here’s my first one of the season!

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Maine Musings: Winding Down of Summer

 

We just ended a week of house guests as we wind down our Maine time. My sister and her husband were easy to have and together we visited the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, ate lobster as often as possible, and enjoyed another excursion to Pemaquid Point.

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We then welcomed our 3 year old granddaughter (and her wonderful parents) who provided nonstop commentary on what she and everyone around her was doing. That was when she wasn’t making up family stories about sticks, stones, and her dolls or involving her grandmother as playmate in various scenarios: going to the dentist, lying on the beach, being sick and requiring a trip to the hospital in an ambulance, making pancakes (clementines stood in for the pancake batter), and arranging a tea party. She and I did all of these things and we even read a few books together; for the one she especially liked, it was, “again, Grandma, again.”

We also made blueberry pancakes for breakfast (for real) and spent many hours in the children’s garden at the aforementioned botanic garden. A lively visit and a real gift of their precious time.

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What I’m Not Reading

Despite a recent article in the Wall St. Journal about the demise of the summer reading list, I still try to read tomes on vacation that I don’t attempt the rest of the year. This summer I have one of Trollope’s novels on my stack which I will start soon.

I also subscribe to a first editions book club and receive an autographed novel in the mail each month. I seldom read these books as soon as they arrive and over time I accumulate a small stack of them. I brought two with me to Maine. I have started both of them and abandoned both of them, probably for good. I anticipated being absorbed and even engrossed in them, but not so.

The first one is about a young woman who masquerades as a man and goes off to fight in the Civil War. She leaves her husband and their farm behind. The writing is spare and the images of war are graphic and bloody. The author keeps the reader at a distance and I didn’t stay engaged. Maybe not just the right time or mood for me, so perhaps I’ll return to it. It is Neverhome by Laird Hunt.

The second novel, Flying Shoes, by Lisa Howorth, is a first novel built around the re-opening of a murder case in the 1980’s that was the actual murder of the author’s brother. It’s set in Mississippi and has a sassy, what I would characterize as southern, tone. I found the narrator’s voice too flippant and saucy; hence it’s on my discard pile.

One of the liberating aspects of this stage of life is that I don’t need to finish every book I start. I sample fifty to a hundred pages and if I don’t like what I’ve read, I give myself permission to set it aside without guilt. Life is short and there are too many books I want to read to get bogged down in one that is not compelling or enjoyable in some way!