ON TO OAMARU VIA THE LAKES
We left Lake Tekapo on Friday morning around 8:30 and, on the recommendation of our dinner neighbors last evening, opted to take the slightly longer inland route around several other lakes, rather than the coastal route, to Oamaru, our next place of lodging. From Tekapo to Twizel was fine, but not exceptional, but as we got nearer to Lake Pukaki, the views were gorgeous. Lake Pukaki is the largest of the three lakes that are at the northern end of the Mackenzie Basin; the other two are Tekapo and Ohau. 
They were all formed by the action of receding glaciers. Reminded me a bit of the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, which without the drama of a mountain backdrop, are nonetheless very deep and lovely lakes also formed by glaciers.
We made frequent stops to take photos and at one point, an older gentleman came over and pointed out that the peak we were looking at was Mt. Cook, the highest one in New Zealand at over 3750 meters or more than 12,000 feet. He explained that it was rare to see it clearly as it’s usually obscured by clouds, and that we were very lucky. He also told us he had spent six weeks in the U.S. bicycling and seeing lots of the country from Chicago and Wyoming to New Orleans, New York and Florida, including Key West. He said New Zealand had some similar topography to our country, but in a smaller package.
He walked back to his car, we took another photo, and then he came toward me to offer his business card, and said if we had any problems, a car breakdown or got stuck, to give him a call. Alan is a real estate agent who lives in Dunedin and is yet another example of the kindness and hospitality of the Kiwis.
We stopped for coffee and tea and a scone and a muffin in Omarama, a small town providing services for area farmers and also famous for wind gliding. Then it was onward for the last leg to Oamaru, a city known for its Victorian historic district and for its two penguin colonies, blue penguins and yellow-eyed penguins. A visit to one of these might be a must for the Chief Penguin!
In 1889, businessman John Bulleid had the Pen-y-bryn Lodge built as a home for his wife and family. Fearing earthquakes, he insisted that it be built of strong woods, and he imported large amounts of English oak for use in the interior as well as an imposing oak bookcase and an oak cabinet. After the Bulleids died, the mayor of Oamaru bought it, and he and his family lived in it for more than 70 years making many changes. The third owners, local dairy farmers, saw its possibility as an elegant lodge and worked to restore some of the Victorian splendor undone by the previous owners. This is where we stayed.
The current owners, Americans both named James, are delightful hosts. Tired of the corporate world and living in China, they decided they wanted to run a B and B and sought to acquire a suitable property. They weren’t fixated on a particular country and had never been to New Zealand when they first saw this house. They purchased it in 2010 and are enjoying this different lifestyle. One James does all the gardening (the grounds are lovely and also produce veggies for the table and honey), and the other James is an accomplished chef. Dinner as well as breakfast are included in the room rate, and the delicious dinner was probably the best one so far with salmon poke, watercress soup, lamb, and rhubarb souffle! As at Marlborough, it being a bit pre-season, we were the only guests.
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).
