GETTING THERE
Killarney is a tourist town in County Kerry. Our “straight shot” drive on N22 from Cork wasn’t quite as straight or simple as our instructions made it sound. Like much of what we’ve traversed in Ireland, there were many roundabouts, sometimes one every 500 or 600 meters with female Google announcing which exit from it you should take, “take the 3rd exit toward Blakedene and R481.” Getting on the proper spur requires careful listening, counting, and then remembering to always bear left. While I sometimes sat on my hands or folded them tightly, I was very glad I was not the driver! Even roads near cities and towns become narrower. Then the roadside signs read, “Traffic Calming 400M ,” which translated means: slow down and proceed with caution.
The Chief Penguin did an admirable job! And we arrived in Killarney around 10:45, in time for some hot tea and homemade scones in our hotel’s comfortable lobby. The Killarney Royal is a sister property to our previous hotel in Cork and to the Great Southern Killarney just down the street. It was built in 1900 and has been modernized. The hotel staff welcomed us warmly. Lisa, in particular, got us sorted on where to park the car once we unloaded and even made sure we were in the correct lot.
JAUNTING CAR ADVENTURE
We spent part of the afternoon on a jaunting car ride in the Killarney National Park. Jaunting cars are horse-drawn covered wagons with bench seats on both sides. Lauren was the driver of our jaunting car. It was a very pleasant experience as the horse went clip clopping along the main road midst car traffic, then turning off onto a paved path in the park. Looking about 15, Lauren is a local man born and bred in Killarney who’s been driving for two years. Unlike the other Irish men we’ve met, he was laconic not loquacious.
Killarney National Park was the first national park in Ireland and created in 1932 when Muckross House was donated to the Irish people. Today the park covers some 25,000 acres and includes several lakes, woodland, and the only red deer herd in the country. In 1981, the park was named a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. It’s a main attraction for visitors who come to hike or bike its many paths.
Jaunting through the park, there were views of Lough Lake, and both grassy meadow areas and heavily wooded lanes. The first stop was at Muckross House, a large Tudor mansion built in 1843 for the Herbert family. Over the years, it belonged to a series of owners, the last of whom presented it to the country. It has extensive gardens, a cafe, and a gift shop. It wasn’t a long stop, so we mostly wandered the grounds admiring the flowering plants and paying a visit to the shop.
Back in the jaunting car, we continued on our park loop and were able to get out and walk around the ruins of an old abbey. The Muckross Friary was founded in 1448 by a branch of Franciscan monks and had a violent history. The abbey was damaged and reconstructed many times until being done in by Cromwell in 1652. Today, it’s in remarkably good condition. I found it immensely attractive and appealing.
BACK IN TOWN
With cafes, bars, and restaurants galore, it’s easy to see that Killarney attracts lots of visitors. In our travels, we’ve seen many Americans, many playing catch-up after the pandemic lockdowns. The town was bustling in the late afternoon, and as is my wont, I was able to browse a bit in the local Eason bookstore.
For dinner, we decided to dine at our hotel and ate in the more casual dining room. Having had no real lunch, we noted the generous portions and quickly assuaged our hunger. Our waiter was a delightful older man with a great sense of humor. A good end to another fun day in Ireland.
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo taken at Muckross House.
