Tag: Oamaru

Down Under: Enjoying Oamaru

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OUT AND ABOUT IN OAMARU

We spent Saturday in a relaxed fashion catching up on blog and photo editing before heading into town. Our first stop in was the lovely and quite old (1876) Oamaru Public Gardens. Lots of mature trees, a stream, and little paths with stone steps and along stone walls leading to quiet nooks and crannies. Rhododendrons were in full bloom and several cherry trees were raining petals over the red arched bridge. Apparently, Oamaru at one point had the largest Chinese population in New Zealand, not so much any more.

Part of the garden called Wonderland is dedicated to children and there’s a playful sculpture of a boy and girl clambering on a rock. We easily spend an hour wandering, looking and savoring its peaceful greenness.  

Later we returned to the Victorian Precinct which had just gotten a cursory look the day before. The architecture here and along the main street is mostly all built of the native limestone called whitestone. Also now the name of the local cheese company. This is late 19th and early 20th century architecture at its most classical with straight lines, columns and simple decorative elements.

The shops in the historic district run the gamut from the quirky to the less quirky. There are a couple of mostly used bookstores, a number of cafes (pastries, cookies and pies are big here), coffee shops (you are never far from the next cup of java), and a host of jewelry, soap, art and craft and candy shops. Most have some connection to the Victorian theme.  

We had lunch in the oldest restaurant in the town and felt a part of the local culture as no one else looked to be a tourist.  The Star & Garter has been the venue for many a wedding reception and the photos on the wall of brides and grooms go back more than 60 years. Lunch fare was a chicken enchilada (creamy with mushrooms, Oamaru style) and for me, panfried salmon with a green salad. Shortly after we ordered, I received the weekly Facetime call from our granddaughters. Quite amazing to be on the other side of the globe and talk as if they were only a few doors away!

We also popped into the Forrester Gallery briefly (see fossil of the animal moa above, a bird that existed in New Zealand until about 1500) and checked out the front of the public library (only open until 12:30 on Saturday). In fact, many stores close at 1:00 or 2:00 pm on Saturday, making me wonder what they do the rest of the weekend.

At dinner, we had the company of other guests, a young couple from Wellington on a weekend break (Monday is Labour Day). Sandra is from Liechtenstein and John from Fiji and we had fun learning more about their respective countries (actually L. is a principality with only 38,000 people and you can drive from one side to the other in half an hour!) and what it might be like to island hop in Fiji.  

The meal was another scrumptious affair : salmon salad with smoked eggplant puree and cherry tomatoes and other mini veggies; fried duck egg on top of little potatoes with black truffle vinaigrette; venison striploin with wheatberry pilaf, and asparagus on butternut puree, and lastly, a frozen chestnut parfait and white chocolate mousee with cocoa nibs and dark chocolate soil. I was leery about the venison, but it was farm-raised and tender and delicious! Most of the veggies were grown here at Pen-y-bryn Lodge. Chef James both cooks and plays host before dinner and always looks relaxed and never harried.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

 

Down Under: Mt. Cook & Oamaru

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ON TO OAMARU VIA THE LAKES

We left Lake Tekapo on Friday morning around 8:30 and, on the recommendation of our dinner neighbors last evening, opted to take the slightly longer inland route around several other lakes, rather than the coastal route, to Oamaru, our next place of lodging. From Tekapo to Twizel was fine, but not exceptional, but as we got nearer to Lake Pukaki, the views were gorgeous. Lake Pukaki is the largest of the three lakes that are at the northern end of the Mackenzie Basin; the other two are Tekapo and Ohau.  

They were all formed by the action of receding glaciers. Reminded me a bit of the Finger Lakes in upstate New York, which without the drama of a mountain backdrop, are nonetheless very deep and lovely lakes also formed by glaciers.

  

We made frequent stops to take photos and at one point, an older gentleman came over and pointed out that the peak we were looking at was Mt. Cook, the highest one in New Zealand at over 3750 meters or more than 12,000 feet. He explained that it was rare to see it clearly as it’s usually obscured by clouds, and that we were very lucky. He also told us he had spent six weeks in the U.S. bicycling and seeing lots of the country from Chicago and Wyoming to New Orleans, New York and Florida, including Key West. He said New Zealand had some similar topography to our country, but in a smaller package.

He walked back to his car, we took another photo, and then he came toward me to offer his business card, and said if we had any problems, a car breakdown or got stuck, to give him a call. Alan is a real estate agent who lives in Dunedin and is yet another example of the kindness and hospitality of the Kiwis.

We stopped for coffee and tea and a scone and a muffin in Omarama, a small town providing services for area farmers and also famous for wind gliding. Then it was onward for the last leg to Oamaru, a city known for its Victorian historic district and for its two penguin colonies, blue penguins and yellow-eyed penguins.  A visit to one of these might be a must for the Chief Penguin!

In 1889, businessman John Bulleid had the Pen-y-bryn Lodge built as a home for his wife and family. Fearing earthquakes, he insisted that it be built of strong woods, and he imported large amounts of English oak for use in the interior as well as an imposing oak bookcase and an oak cabinet. After the Bulleids died, the mayor of Oamaru bought it, and he and his family lived in it for more than 70 years making many changes. The third owners, local dairy farmers, saw its possibility as an elegant lodge and worked to restore some of the Victorian splendor undone by the previous owners. This is where we stayed.

The current owners, Americans both named James, are delightful hosts. Tired of the corporate world and living in China, they decided they wanted to run a B and B and sought to acquire a suitable property. They weren’t fixated on a particular country and had never been to New Zealand when they first saw this house. They purchased it in 2010 and are enjoying this different lifestyle. One James does all the gardening (the grounds are lovely and also produce veggies for the table and honey),  and the other James is an accomplished chef. Dinner as well as breakfast are included in the room rate, and the delicious dinner was probably the best one so far with salmon poke, watercress soup, lamb, and rhubarb souffle!  As at Marlborough, it being a bit pre-season, we were the only guests.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).